2000 windstar alternator woes

2000 Windstar 3.8L 130amp alternator. Wife reported all the dash warning
lights flashing and poor engine performance. As per some previous posts
went to look at battery and alt output. Found 11.2V at battery, checked
fuses and wires to alt. Replaced alternator with reman from nationally known
parts store. Reman alt. made a whine but had 14V at battery and alt output
stud. Drove for 10mile and checked again, 11.2V at battery with engine
starting to surge in driveway. Pulled that alt and picked up another reman
from same source. Had battery tested by Batteries Plus and store where
purchased. Battery OK. Bought another battery anyway, put in 2nd reman
alt. this one was also a dud. Brought 2nd reman alt to a starter/alt shop, they tested and confirmed no output. Got my orignal alt back from parts store and brought in to starter/alt shop to have them rebuild, it also had
no output. Question is, has anyone come across a condition that could
possibly be frying alternators? I suspect the two remanufactured ones
were just both duds.

The most likely cause of frying alternators would be the battery, which you have already changed.
While you wait for the alternator to be repaired, you might put the battery on a charger (if you don't have one, I'll bet you could borrow from a neighbor).
This way, the new / repaired alternator will not have to charge up a discharged battery.

Thanks for the reply. Before installing alternator in both cases I
had battery on a charger. Battery had plenty of juice to start engine.
Just waiting to hear from rebuild shop on orignal alt.
Rebuild shop said stator was shot and that it would be more economical
for me to pickup a reman. I suspect he did not have parts to repair.
Picked up another reman. and installed, at last I have one that works. Drove
with voltmeter rigged up to cig lighter (as described in another post) 13.8V to
14V. Advance auto had one for $178 with lifetime warranty. I wont name the
parts retailer that gave me two duds.

Alternator woes continue. On two seperate occasions after installing the
third alternator, battery was dead. First time I suspected the infamous door
switches leaving dome lights on. Second time wife couldn't start car after
work. Put a fully charged battery in (I have a spare now) and drove home.
Did some checking and found a 4.5 amp draw through the alternator when
engine and ignition was off. This draw existed even when the three wire regulator connector was pulled. Pulled third alternator and exchanged for
a fourth. This one had a momentary draw of current when connecting the output lead, then ampmeter would quickly go to zero. Drove van for 9.8 miles and had good voltage the whole time. Starting to wonder if a decent
remanufactured alternator is available. My Haynes manual states that the internal regulator/rectifier assembly is not serviceable, there must be some soldering involed. There is still a .6amp draw on
system, this I assume is for maintenance of electronics, clock, etc. I'll update if there are any future changes. After about 1000 miles, no additional electrical problems.

My 1998 Windstar has fried 3 NAPA rebuilt alternators in 2 years. It seems they are not able to deliver the output over an extended period of time and the rectifier bridge burns up. Anyone else with this experience? If the original poster is still checking in, did you find a rebuilt that actually stands up? My original Ford alternator lasted 8 years.

Ron AKA, I haven't had any problems with the fourth alternator installed. It was purchased from Advance Auto. The initial one I got from Advance Auto did have an internal short or bad diode as it had a 4.5 amp draw when engine was off. I don't remember the charging amperage rating. The first two duds, "out of the box" came from Car Quest. From what I've seen on the packaging, these alternator remanufacturers are all out of the country, south of the border. May be worth having your battery tested, again a bench test still falls short of actual use and vibration on the road. Check all battery cable connections for cleanliness and tightness, even the ground cable where it connects to tranny mounting bolt.

I had a genuine Motorcraft remanufactured alternator within a month....it gave no warning.....was on the freeway and the engine stumbled.....CEL came on and I smelled a very slight burning smell.
I had drops of aluminum that had dripped down from the alternator case.....the heatsink inside had melted.
I still had my original (noisy bearing unit) that I put on to drive to the auto part store to pick up another unit.
I have the Advance Auto (brand new.....not remanufactured) alternator on there now......for several years without issue.
My original problem was noisy bearings in the original and another reman unit.

Last time around I replaced the battery although it was quite new and still under full warranty from Costco. Now another alternator has died, so I don't suspect the battery. Have had no fuse or breaker issues to suggest a serious overload. Have had no problem with battery staying charged. The first symptom in all but one case is fire and smoke. Yes, I've had the melted aluminum thing too. Still thinking it must be the quality of the alternator that is the problem. These NAPA ones all appear to be made/rebuilt in China.

My Ford original had the bearings go. I wish I had gotten it rebuilt, but I turned it in for the core refund.

I just today had an alternator experience. Daughter's 97 Tracer. Loud bearing noise ... about to "go". Since it is Sunday and the Ford dealership closed ... I went to AutoZone. Because of my history with remans, I had AZ benchtest the alt they pulled off the shelf and were about to sell me ... it FAILED their own test! It was their only alternator. Had to go to another AZ to find one that was "ok".

My choice would have been a Ford unit ... they usually have the best amp rating and the best price!

WOW!!! You guys have some real horror stories. Seems there isn't a decent alternator to be found. I too was disappointed with a NAPA reman for my Taurus, 3.8, which is essentially the same as for the Windstar. It first had what I thought was a bad rear bearing, then it started to no longer provide enough output when heavily loaded, then eventually drained my battery while driving. I figured out that the diodes were probably shorting and saw inside several windings had fried their solder connections. You guys are not giving me any confidence in the new one I have from them!?! :banghead The original alt didn't have more than 70k on it but was 10 years old. I wish I had kept it and rebuild just the voltage/rectifier/brushes and maybe the bearings.

Whoever said Haynes said it couldn't be rebuilt be a DIY, yes it can. Problem is finding the parts. Napa and Autozone and possibly online they should be available. As a matter of fact, changing the volt reg/rect/brushes is easier than a WHOLE lot of things on cars these days! Two screws, off it comes, drop in the new one. Couldn't be easier!

Had exactly the same problem. Killed a new battery first. A couple months later started smelling buring. Couldn't trace it. Then the engine started being difficult to start (cranked but kept dying), then idling too fast - racing. Finally a day later, driving at highway speed the radio went out, then ABS. Then the lights all went out. Finally had dealer replace alternator and was OK.

My Advance Auto alternator is still installed, has lasted over 3yrs so far. I still have the receipt if needed (lifetime warranty).

My 96 that I purchased used (2years old) went till mid 2010 on what I thought was an original ford alternator. When I pulled it off I found a reman sticker on the bottom so the original lasted less than 2 years.

I was hoping the problem with the alternator may have been the regulator but when I took it apart the slip rings had worn almost all the way thru, almost no copper left.

Wound up installing a reman and so far so good.

My 96 that I purchased used (2years old) went till mid 2010 on what I thought was an original ford alternator. When I pulled it off I found a reman sticker on the bottom so the original lasted less than 2 years.

I was hoping the problem with the alternator may have been the regulator but when I took it apart the slip rings had worn almost all the way thru, almost no copper left.

Wound up installing a reman and so far so good.