any trick to removing rotors on 01
phil a
10-31-2007, 01:22 PM
Cant seem to get the rotors off... got a book and read up first..
like big stuck.. used wd 40 all around and beat on them with a block of wood..
like big stuck.. used wd 40 all around and beat on them with a block of wood..
12Ounce
10-31-2007, 02:05 PM
Be sure to soak the stud bottoms also.
You must protect the hub bearings as you try to take the rotor off ... no hammer blows that will impact the bearings. Lower the car until the rotor comes down on something very solid ... concrete block, bricks, anvil, etc ... not wood. Make sure the rotor is supported well to protect the hub bearings. Now take a heavy steel hammer and strike straight downward on the top of the rotor. The idea is to cause the rotor to flex elliptically. Keep the WD40 going thru the process.
If that fails grab the torch.
You must protect the hub bearings as you try to take the rotor off ... no hammer blows that will impact the bearings. Lower the car until the rotor comes down on something very solid ... concrete block, bricks, anvil, etc ... not wood. Make sure the rotor is supported well to protect the hub bearings. Now take a heavy steel hammer and strike straight downward on the top of the rotor. The idea is to cause the rotor to flex elliptically. Keep the WD40 going thru the process.
If that fails grab the torch.
phil a
10-31-2007, 02:31 PM
OK,, got the picture,,, thanks,, will try again this weekend I hope!
rodeo02
10-31-2007, 03:36 PM
Had the same problem on my 2001. I really wore myself out beating the first one loose. My brother stopped by and suggested I do what the techs do where he works (USPS). Use an air chisel. Just a few quick bursts around the hub is all it took for the other side. My cheap $8 HFT's impact chisel worked like a champ. Oddly enough, the side I spray lubed, beat, pounded....:banghead: is the side that the bearing hub went out on about 10Kmi later. The chisel works great on the rear drums as well.
Joel
Joel
pitteach
10-31-2007, 04:18 PM
I ended up cutting mine and splitting them. Didn't know about the air chisel at the time but I think that's the way to go. I made sure to clean up the hub and apply anti-seize at the mating points to avoid future probs. Good luck.
12Ounce
10-31-2007, 05:59 PM
If you pound on the rotor while the rotor is supported by the bearing .... well, you could be asking for bearing failure.
garync1
10-31-2007, 07:22 PM
Just checking but you did remove the torx bolts holding the rotor on ?? The new one may not have hole for them on thats ok. I had a hard time getting the torx bolts out. But after that they just came off..
rodeo02
10-31-2007, 08:53 PM
If you pound on the rotor while the rotor is supported by the bearing .... well, you could be asking for bearing failure.
Agreed. Problem is, there is no gentle way to remove a rusted on rotor/drum. Applying heat can also destroy the bearing hub.
Joel
Agreed. Problem is, there is no gentle way to remove a rusted on rotor/drum. Applying heat can also destroy the bearing hub.
Joel
tripletdaddy
11-01-2007, 12:49 AM
Too much torch heat could be bad as earlier pointed out, depending on the set up, could cook the bearing grease. But, them brakes do get plenty hot when used, so you can use hopefully enough even heat to try this trick. Wherever the rotor mates that you are suspicious of rust seizure, melt wax into thoes areas. I know the centering hub to rotor fit is always my biggest problem. Also, you can try heating up the rotor and then rapidly cool JUST it with your water hose several times You can also alternate what you heat (the center hub with caution depending on the hub and bearing arrangement) and or cool. You want to cool off first just the one you heated and then the other with the whole idea to cause the metal to expand and then contract rapidly to help break that rust bond. If you are convinced its just too tight on the center hub, you can try to finely lighten the oversize on the hub center right where the hub projects beyond the rotor. An angle grinder disc may be too big for this, but a coarse sanding disc I think would be better. I have succesfully hammered them off, but never to excess or ruined my bearings, but it seems to me if you could put a lot of torque on the rotor sideways like with a large wrench and then wack it the same way you are are pulling on it. A three jaw puller and wack it. Make up your own puller if it will work where you have a piece of metal with for either two or three holes for the wheel studs where the metal crosses the center and when you torque down on it with your upside down lug nuts, then wack it. You might try tightening the nuts down cockeyed so that it puts more pressure on one side than the other, and wack it on the side that is tightened down on the most. Lastly, I can only geuss those that use the air chisel are doing at the backside of the rotor to the hub mate and would think that doing it manually is a possibility.
Let us know your story of success or defeat.
Good luck.
Let us know your story of success or defeat.
Good luck.
phil a
11-01-2007, 10:12 AM
Hey ,, thanks for the plethora of replys,, I made copies,, to take home for this weekend or even start tonight,, will post reply with the thrill of Victory or the agony of Defeat.
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