HELP.. tune up
moemo
08-29-2007, 11:02 AM
I need some quick help, I was planning on changing spark plugs, wires etc.. I went to remove top intake (plastic) in order to reach around the back and get the three plugs. What happen was one of the screws is stripped on the intake, is there any other way of doing this without going under the van???? HELP...:screwy: :screwy:
pitteach
08-29-2007, 11:24 AM
What year van do you have? Are you referring to the upper intake clamshell or the plastic cowl just below the windshield. You should not have to remove the intake but you could remove the cowl.
It's not too bad once you figure out how it fits on. You have to remove the wiper arms first and then I believe there are about 8-10 10mm bolts that hold the cowl. There are also a few plastic phillips head screws. Once you have all the fasteners removed you have to disconnect the wiper motor plug and kind of wiggle the cowl off. Be careful because there are some plastic clips under the cowl the align it to the metal frame of the van.
Once you have the cowl removed you will be amazed at the access to the firewall and rear bank of the motor. It may be tricky to see the plugs back there, but mine changed out easily using the feeler method. A lot of people choose to do the plugs from the bottom, but I always look for ways to stay out from under the van. I've taken the cowl off a few times now and I could probably do it with my eyes closed, but the first time took me a while just to find everything. Again I think it is well worth it to have the working room.
BTW: Try and use the Autolite or Motorcraft DOUBLE Platinum plugs due to the design of the ignition system. Hope this helps.
It's not too bad once you figure out how it fits on. You have to remove the wiper arms first and then I believe there are about 8-10 10mm bolts that hold the cowl. There are also a few plastic phillips head screws. Once you have all the fasteners removed you have to disconnect the wiper motor plug and kind of wiggle the cowl off. Be careful because there are some plastic clips under the cowl the align it to the metal frame of the van.
Once you have the cowl removed you will be amazed at the access to the firewall and rear bank of the motor. It may be tricky to see the plugs back there, but mine changed out easily using the feeler method. A lot of people choose to do the plugs from the bottom, but I always look for ways to stay out from under the van. I've taken the cowl off a few times now and I could probably do it with my eyes closed, but the first time took me a while just to find everything. Again I think it is well worth it to have the working room.
BTW: Try and use the Autolite or Motorcraft DOUBLE Platinum plugs due to the design of the ignition system. Hope this helps.
moemo
08-29-2007, 11:55 AM
it's a 1999, well I was talking about that plastic COWl. One of those 10mm screws is stripped in there therfore I cant remove the COWL... THANKS:banghead:
vandentr
08-29-2007, 02:03 PM
Moemo,
I spent the last week cleaning the EGR ports, replacing the old aluminum DPFE sensor, changing the plugs & wires, front brake pads and rear drums, shoes and related internal hardware.
I have a 98' 3.8 with 138k miles.
My first order of business was the plugs and wires:
1) Put the front end up on ramps,
2) Remove antenna,
3) Remove throttle body and air cleaner - disconnect the electrical connections and remove the throttle/curise cables from the plate.
4) Remove the windshield cowling and don't forget the wiper tubes!!! (the upper (metal) screws of the outer cowling are screwed into plastic retaining blocks the lower ones are just plastic push-lock retainers that you simply screw out far enough in order to push out from the bottom side of the cowling).
5) The plastic cowling support (under #4) that holds the wiper motor and arms has 4 outer machine screws (2 on each side) and 5 longer ones (in the middle) that hold the drain elbow and ventilation intake tube. Try applying upward pressure with a screwdriver under the stripped screw to get it out or just cut it with a small hacksaw, linesman pliers or bolt cutter.
6) Disconnect the O2 sensor wires underneath (for clearance purposes) and remove & replace the back 3 plugs, it actually isn't too bad as long as you can do an extended crunch while reefing on the plugs to get 'em loose. :uhoh: The OEM plug wires were numbered so keeping track of them was easy - while I was down there I also took a wide flat screw driver and popped the plastic spark plug wire guides off of their respective posts
7) Now from the top of the engine, pull all three rear wires off of the coil pack and feed them up and through the compartment - note the order!
8) Lay them out on the floor and replicate the position of the plastic guides from the old to the new wires one at a time.
9) Feed the new 'assembly' back into the engine compartment and with good force insert them back onto the coil pack.
10) Reconnect and reverse the process then do the same for the front set.
Let us know how it goes!
TVB
I spent the last week cleaning the EGR ports, replacing the old aluminum DPFE sensor, changing the plugs & wires, front brake pads and rear drums, shoes and related internal hardware.
I have a 98' 3.8 with 138k miles.
My first order of business was the plugs and wires:
1) Put the front end up on ramps,
2) Remove antenna,
3) Remove throttle body and air cleaner - disconnect the electrical connections and remove the throttle/curise cables from the plate.
4) Remove the windshield cowling and don't forget the wiper tubes!!! (the upper (metal) screws of the outer cowling are screwed into plastic retaining blocks the lower ones are just plastic push-lock retainers that you simply screw out far enough in order to push out from the bottom side of the cowling).
5) The plastic cowling support (under #4) that holds the wiper motor and arms has 4 outer machine screws (2 on each side) and 5 longer ones (in the middle) that hold the drain elbow and ventilation intake tube. Try applying upward pressure with a screwdriver under the stripped screw to get it out or just cut it with a small hacksaw, linesman pliers or bolt cutter.
6) Disconnect the O2 sensor wires underneath (for clearance purposes) and remove & replace the back 3 plugs, it actually isn't too bad as long as you can do an extended crunch while reefing on the plugs to get 'em loose. :uhoh: The OEM plug wires were numbered so keeping track of them was easy - while I was down there I also took a wide flat screw driver and popped the plastic spark plug wire guides off of their respective posts
7) Now from the top of the engine, pull all three rear wires off of the coil pack and feed them up and through the compartment - note the order!
8) Lay them out on the floor and replicate the position of the plastic guides from the old to the new wires one at a time.
9) Feed the new 'assembly' back into the engine compartment and with good force insert them back onto the coil pack.
10) Reconnect and reverse the process then do the same for the front set.
Let us know how it goes!
TVB
catvents
08-29-2007, 09:37 PM
it's a 1999, well I was talking about that plastic COWl. One of those 10mm screws is stripped in there therfore I cant remove the COWL... THANKS:banghead: I too had some problem to remove a few of these bolts because of the rust; I just broke a plastic duct ( which collect the water coming from the windshield when there is rain). But once you will have remove the cowl , you will have an easy acces to the rear spark plug, wire, and ignition coil if necessary. By the way you don't have to remove the antenna ( as someone has recommanded), 99 + model has this antenna in the rear right quarter glass which is different than 98 and older model.
moemo
09-03-2007, 01:08 PM
Thanks, It took me a little over an hour to do this. I ran it to a problem when I went to remove air filter, there was oil in there......
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