Wont Start

Hi I have a 1993 Saturn sl1 sohc and it just quit going down the road doing about 65mph motor stopped so pulled off road and could not restart it, towed it home and now the motor turns over and kinda back fires threw the throtle body,ran code check and got #26 ,32,and 45.
Please !!! I need help !!! as you can see I am new and a dummy ...
Thanks in advance to all that help an those thinking about it.

Having the same problem...my thread is "HELP. Crazy....1997 SL2" So if you get any good replys could you please post them on mine as well? And I will do the same for you. :)

Having the same problem...my thread is "HELP. Crazy....1997 SL2" So if you get any good replys could you please post them on mine as well? And I will do the same for you. :)

Sure will !!

The last time I saw symptoms like these (popping through the throttle body) it was the timing chain/belt that slipped.

The last time I saw symptoms like these (popping through the throttle body) it was the timing chain/belt that slipped.

Is there any way to check that besides pulling the timeing chain cover

Though my experience with this symptom has been a valve timing issue, you'd want to first rule out any simpler causes. But I really don't know what to suggest next. Any mechanics out there have anything to add?

Im a hobbyist, not a pro - but here is my guessing...
If your timing chain had slipped, would it not lower the compression readings? Try doing a compression check. The readings should be fairly uniform; since the cam timing would be equally -off- for all cylinders. However if the chain had slipped far enough to let the piston tops hit any of the valves and bend them, then there would be no compression at all in those cylinders. How many miles are on the car? Was the oil level very low at the time this happened?
As for not starting and the popping when you tried: Another thing to check would be whether you had correct fuel pressure. There is a Shcrader valve on the fuel supply line of my 92, and the pressure can be measured there. I think the valve is the same style as the connections for the R-12 a.c. hoses and gauges. You could connect one of the gauges (the low side would be fine) via that hose to have a look at fuel pressure. Turning the ignition key on makes the pump run for a couple of seconds, long enough to have the fuel pressure stabilized. I hope somone else can tell you what the proper fuel pressure should be - my manuals arent with me here, and I cant recall what mine was supposed to be.
You may have to take the camshaft cover off. This isnt too bad of a job, much easier than removing the timing chain cover. Then you would need to establish top-dead-center on cylinder #1 (nearest the timing chain), and see if the cams were turned with the lobes away from the valves. With #1 spark plug out, putting a wooden dowel down into the cylinder would let you know when that piston was coming up - as you turned the engine with a wrench on the bolt that holds the bottom pulley on the crankshaft end. The piston could also be at top dead center at the end of the exhaust stroke and beginning of the intake stroke though.
With the cam cover off I think you might be able to pull on the timing chain and see if it had a lot of slack in it.

Im a hobbyist, not a pro - but here is my guessing...
If your timing chain had slipped, would it not lower the compression readings? Try doing a compression check. The readings should be fairly uniform; since the cam timing would be equally -off- for all cylinders. However if the chain had slipped far enough to let the piston tops hit any of the valves and bend them, then there would be no compression at all in those cylinders. How many miles are on the car? Was the oil level very low at the time this happened?
As for not starting and the popping when you tried: Another thing to check would be whether you had correct fuel pressure. There is a Shcrader valve on the fuel supply line of my 92, and the pressure can be measured there. I think the valve is the same style as the connections for the R-12 a.c. hoses and gauges. You could connect one of the gauges (the low side would be fine) via that hose to have a look at fuel pressure. Turning the ignition key on makes the pump run for a couple of seconds, long enough to have the fuel pressure stabilized. I hope somone else can tell you what the proper fuel pressure should be - my manuals arent with me here, and I cant recall what mine was supposed to be.
You may have to take the camshaft cover off. This isnt too bad of a job, much easier than removing the timing chain cover. Then you would need to establish top-dead-center on cylinder #1 (nearest the timing chain), and see if the cams were turned with the lobes away from the valves. With #1 spark plug out, putting a wooden dowel down into the cylinder would let you know when that piston was coming up - as you turned the engine with a wrench on the bolt that holds the bottom pulley on the crankshaft end. The piston could also be at top dead center at the end of the exhaust stroke and beginning of the intake stroke though.
With the cam cover off I think you might be able to pull on the timing chain and see if it had a lot of slack in it.

Thankyou for the info. I will try all you sugested.

I purchased my 99 SL2 Saturn 5 years ago. I've had a similar issue with my Saturn. I've had problems with it sense day one.

#1: The first issue was the windows stopped working, it took the mechanic 3 times to finally replaces the whole window motor, and I’m still having issues with them today.

#2: The car randomly would not start. As of right now it sitting in the shop and I'm not sure if I should take it somewhere else or let my mechanic fix it again. He says it's my starter, but I just replaced the starter about 1.5 years ago. The car starts when it wants to. I turn the key and all of the light comes on, but when I turn the ignition on the car doesn't make a sound. I had the battery checked just incase it was low and they said the battery was fine. <-- Current Issue

#3: The locks on my car go haywire. They keep locking and unlocking on there own over and over again creating an annoying sound. I took out the fuses to the doors and now have to use it manually.

#4: The alarm on the car worked for a year, and then it started draining my battery. Sometimes I would lock my car with the alarm key chain and then it wouldn't unlock when I pushed the button again and I couldn't get in my car. I bought new batteries for the keychain thinking that maybe it needed a new battery, but it didn't work. So I had the alarm disconnected.

I've never had so many issues with a car. Does anyone have any suggestion for issue #2: My car not starting?

If the timing chain slipped or broke you most likely have a boat anchor under the hood now. At the very least, you might be able to have the head rebuilt if no pistons have been damaged.

code 26 quad driver out put fault 32 egr fault 45 02 rich condition pull spark plugs see if gas fould

#3: The locks on my car go haywire. They keep locking and unlocking on there own over and over again creating an annoying sound. I took out the fuses to the doors and now have to use it manually.

I can't say if it will be the same with the 99 SL2, but the 2000 SL2 door lock was somewhat poorly designed if you ever have to take the door panel off. On ours, to take the door panels off, you have to use a screwdriver to pop out the door lock switch first, then you can unplug the wires from the switch. But, the design is such that I couldn't figure out how to remove the plug without removing the switch itself from the switch housing. This too required a screwdriver and prying, but in doing so it damages the switch because there is a bare wire running down the side of the switch. It would normally not be a problem, but that screwdriver breaks it and you're screwed. It started off just occasionally locking or unlocking itself, then got to the point where you had to hold the lock button down to get it to lock, but the second you removed pressure from the switch it unlocked. Part cost $20, and is the entire door lock. Just unplug the old and put in the new, and it fixed ours like a charm. Now, by not start, what do you mean. Does it turn over, but not crank, or just lose all power?

The originating post sounds like the crankshaft position sensor is dead. To check pull the wires off one of the coilpacks and watch it while some one cranks the starter. You should see a regular spark between the towers. If you don't, replace the CPS.

Well after pulling off the valve cover I saw that the cam gear was missing a timing chain .. opps ... tore it apart and found timing chain had busted.
Bought a new timing kit and installed it.
started it and it ran like it haedly would run without a hard foot on the pedal.
I came back to this site and read all new commits.
Went to junk yard and found a saturn that was wrecked and pulled its head off at a price of $45.00 so now will replace the old head after inspecting the cylinders.
Am I on the right tract ??

Thanks everyone so far !!!

Wow - You have been really active!
Certainly if the timing chain had slipped a tooth or two the engine would have run badly, if it started up at all. And when the chain broke, it would be likely to bend some valves. That would keep it from running. You should be able to see if there is any damage to the pistons when you take the head off of your engine - scrape the piston tops clean and look for any cracks in the pistons around the edge (the piston crown). There might be impact marks from the valves - or the carbon might have prevented that. Hopefully the cylinder walls will still be shiny and unscored. Vacuum out as much of the scrapings as you can, you dont need more crud making the oil control rings sticky.
Since you have the loose head you got from the junkyard, this would be the time to get a valve job done on it, if you can swing the extra few hundred $$. I used new head bolts when I put mine back together; ordered all of the items for the 're-ring' job from www.rockauto.com. - and I am fully satisfied with their products and delivery times.
Mine is a DOHC (SL2) and I would go nuts if I had to work on that timing chain cover with the engine still in the car!

Up-Date

Pulled the old head off the cars motor and found that 1 valve had hit the piston but didnt hurt the piston (thank God) so now ready after getting new gaskets to install the other head.
I guess too some they thought all I had left was a boat anker but hey I had been a hair stylest for 13 years so go figure !! LOL

Dont feel no longer like my nic name on here any more ....
:smokin:

Finished putting it together and now a small problem.....
Seems when it is in park and started it runs fine with plenty RPMs to spare....
But when placed into drive its RPMs when given gas seems to lack power,
and when driving lacks power.
You Guys have been great helping me !!!!
I cant figgure out whats next ... HELP !!!

did u have junkyard head checked??are you sure timing marks were line up
properly??can u check timing when running to see if its right??