2002 Impala LS no start sometimes, passlock?

I have a 2002 LS 3.8L with 250k miles. I recently bought it from a dealership for cheap because of the miles. I went out to start it and when the key was in the 'on' position, all the lights and noises were fine then when I'd turn the key all the way to turn it on, absolutely nothing happens. All the lights go out except for the check engine light. I thought it was a dead battery at first so I jumped it and it was alright for a couple of weeks. Then it happened again. After about 10 minutes of waiting around, it started. And it has been fine ever since. I've read a lot of other threads about this. Is there any other way to ensure this doesn't happen again without having to insert a switch for the yellow wire from the ignition? Thanks for any help you can give.

Adam

This doesn't look like passlock to me. Usually when passlock prevents a start, the message center will show "Security" instead of check engine.
It may be an ignition switch beginning to go bad, however.
If your key is a little worn, you could try another key. Sometimes as the ignition cylinders wear, a worn key will no longer work, but a brand new one will.
The car may have sat at the dealer lot for a while, and the battery got low. Now that it's being driven, the battery is fully charged again, so it starts fine. Just a thought.

The past few times i've driven the car the security light has come on and has stayed on until turned off again. I'm guessing it to be the passlock system. i've read in other threads that i might have to change the ignition switch. if i have to change the ignition switch, will i have to have a key just for the new switch, so instead of one key, i'll have two?

You can replace the tumbler passlock part of the ignition switch seperately. The dealer can re-key it to use your same key. I just fixed the problem in my 2001 Impala. Instead of installing a switch on the yellow wire, which leave the security light on all the time, I cut the yellow wire and installed a resistor of the correct value, between the black and the side of the yellow wire, going back to the computer. The car now starts and functions normal and no security light on. It would make it easier to hot wire and steal, but who would know you modified the security system. The good thing is I saved about $200.00 for the switch, re-keying and my time to install it and reprogram the switch. The resistor can be bought at a Radio Shack for a few dollars.

what's the correct value for the resistor? is there any way to show a pic of the resistor installed?

You need to find the resistance using an ohm meter connected between the black wire and the ignition side of the yellow wire with the key in the on position. every car has a different resistance value. I knew mine ahead of time, because I installed a remote starter, and needed it to bypass the security system. You will need to cut the yellow wire before you can get the proper resistance reading. The black wire needs to stay uncut, so you just skin the insulation off to connect to it. These wires are behind the ignition switch, wrapped in electrical tape. They are small wires about 22 ga. I don't have a picture of the install. I did mine a few weeks ago and the car starts and runs great.

Just to be sure, do I have to cut the yellow wire with the car running? I think I remember reading that somewhere else. Also, once the yellow wire is cut, i connect the resistor to the yellow wire going away from the ignition, right? And just leave the other part of the yellow wire hang there? Did you solder the connections or tape them up? Thanks.

The car can be off when you cut the yellow wire. Once the resistor is installed the car will start normal. Cutting the wire with the engine running disables the security system, keeps the security light on and allows the car to start without the resistance. You need to cut the wire with the engine off to check for the resistance value. The resistor is connected from the black uncut wire to the side of the yellow wire going to the computer. The end attached to the ignition is just left cut and taped. soldering and taping is the best way to do it. I've used the moisture proof 3M scotchlock connectors for communication wires with good results also. They are available at Radio Shack. Using heat shrink tubing works better than electrical tape for covering the solder connections. The also make a heat shrink tape, that melts to itself when heated.

Thank you so much for all the help. I'm going to try to do it this weekend because the damn car didn't start tonight after work and it pissed me off beyond belief. ----Just out of curiosity, how much was your resistance? Just as a reference to make sure I do the reading correctly. Thanks again.

Adam

You are close. You do cut the yellow wire while the car is off and put a meter between the black or orange/black wire and the cut yellow wire coming from the ignition switch. When you do this your meter should show some sort of reading and most of the time will change a little as you keep the meter on there. Then, try to start it. The value will change and hold at a different value. THAT'S THE RESISTANCE VALUE YOU NEED. If you can not get exactly on that value, try to be just a hair above that value.

Case in point, I bypassed one on a '99 Silverado back in the winter. Then this summer it got up to 95 degrees and about 70% humity. Well, the guy started having issues again. I checked the value of the ignition and it was 1505 ohms. The resistance I used was 1549 ohms. I changed it to 1511 ohms. See, heat and humity can cause the resistance to change a little. Granted, it will change such a little bit but if you aren't close enough, it could cause the BCM to throw codes.

Ok, so I tested the resistance on the black wire and the yellow wire going back behind the dash on 20k on the multimeter and came up with a resistance of 10.04. Does that sound correct? I've never worked with resistors or resistance readers before. On 200k I got a measurement of 93.1 and on 2000k I got a measurement of 924. Then I went to Radioshack last night to get a resistor. I got there and the guy started asking me about voltage and wattage and amperage and tolerance and I had no idea what he was talking about. So I bought some 10k ohm resistors and put one on the car and the security light stays on. I'm not sure if I used the tester correctly. I told the guy at Radioshack everything I did and I wasn't getting much response so I bought a few resistors just to make the trip worthwhile. Please let me know that wattage the resistors were that you used and how big they were if you remember or still have some leftover from the package. Thanks a bunch!

I have the same problem with my car, though I did not due anything ie cut wires the security light is on solid everytime I drive the car. This started about 3 months ago and I have never had trouble starting the car.

My question is if there is an easy way to remove the bulb for the Security light so that I do not have to cut wires and such.

I found the instructions that came with my remote starter, for finding the proper resistance value in a passlock II system. With the key in and turned to the "on" or "run" position, put the car in reverse. Turn the key to the "start" position and the back to the "run" position. Now read the resistance between the black wire and the ignition side of the yellow wire. Putting the car in reverse, prevents the car from starting, while checking the resistance. Use a digital meter and take two readings, reversing the leads on the meter. If the readings are different, use the higher of the two. The resistance value of the resistor, you use, must be within 1% of the value. You may need to connect a series of resistors together to get the proper value. The wattage of the resistors isn't important the one's I used were 1/2 watt. I used the 20K setting on my meter to get the readings. An adjustable variable resister with a trimmer in the resistance range you need works well also, because you can dial it in to the exact resistance. Not sure if Radio Shack would have one though. That is how the remote start bypass modules set the resistance. The resitance for my Impala is 4.62K.

I have the same problem with my car, though I did not due anything ie cut wires the security light is on solid everytime I drive the car. This started about 3 months ago and I have never had trouble starting the car.

My question is if there is an easy way to remove the bulb for the Security light so that I do not have to cut wires and such.

The only way to put out the light is to put in a resistor. Cutting the yellow wire with the engine running disables the security system and turns on the light. If you didn't install a switch to reconnect the yellow wire and your battery dies or you disconnect the battery teminals, the car won't start anymore, untill it sees the resistance coming from the ignition switch or you wait 10 minutes everytime you start it.

I found the instructions that came with my remote starter, for finding the proper resistance value in a passlock II system. With the key in and turned to the "on" or "run" position, put the car in reverse. Turn the key to the "start" position and the back to the "run" position. Now read the resistance between the black wire and the ignition side of the yellow wire. Putting the car in reverse, prevents the car from starting, while checking the resistance. Use a digital meter and take two readings, reversing the leads on the meter. If the readings are different, use the higher of the two. The resistance value of the resistor, you use, must be within 1% of the value. You may need to connect a series of resistors together to get the proper value. The wattage of the resistors isn't important the one's I used were 1/2 watt. I used the 20K setting on my meter to get the readings. An adjustable variable resister with a trimmer in the resistance range you need works well also, because you can dial it in to the exact resistance. Not sure if Radio Shack would have one though. That is how the remote start bypass modules set the resistance. The resitance for my Impala is 4.62K.
So did you hook your resistor up to go from the black wire to the little ignition side of the yellow wire or the side that goes back behind the dash?

So did you hook your resistor up to go from the black wire to the little ignition side of the yellow wire or the side that goes back behind the dash?

The resistor goes from the black wire to the side going back behind the dash,
leaving the ignition side of the yellow wire cut and taped.

But you tested the yellow wire going into the ignition?

Yes, you cut the yellow wire and test the ignition switch side. Once you get the code, you put the resistor(s) between the ground reference wire (usually black or orange/black) and the other end of the yellow wire that goes down the column and under the dash. BTW, there's usually 3 wires total with this system. The other wire is white normally but there's nothing you need to do with that wire.

Thank you guys. I will see what I can figure out tomorrow. I've always worked on my own vehicles and can usually figure things out quickly but the electrical system is something I'm very unfamiliar with. Thank you so much for your help!------I went out and tested the system this morning. While the car was running I separated the yellow wire and tested the exposed black wire to the ignition side of the yellow wire while the car was running. With the meter set on 20K, I got a reading of 1.37 and when I switched the leads, I got a reading of 1.17. When I turned the car off and left the key in the "on" position I got the same readings. What size resistor should I get? Does 1.37K mean 1370 ohms?----Out of curiousity, I checked the resistance again with the meter set on 2000. I got a consistent reading of 1308. Would 2-680ohm resistors work?

I have same problem...sometimes (at the worse time)..my 2003 Impala won't start. Usually the Security light will come on a day or so...or same day when this happens.

What is the FASTEST way to FIX it so that it will just START...???

I don't care if the SECURITY light is always on...or whatever...I just want the care to ALWAYS start....

Thanks
MV:banghead:

Thank you guys. I will see what I can figure out tomorrow. I've always worked on my own vehicles and can usually figure things out quickly but the electrical system is something I'm very unfamiliar with. Thank you so much for your help!------I went out and tested the system this morning. While the car was running I separated the yellow wire and tested the exposed black wire to the ignition side of the yellow wire while the car was running. With the meter set on 20K, I got a reading of 1.37 and when I switched the leads, I got a reading of 1.17. When I turned the car off and left the key in the "on" position I got the same readings. What size resistor should I get? Does 1.37K mean 1370 ohms?----Out of curiousity, I checked the resistance again with the meter set on 2000. I got a consistent reading of 1308. Would 2-680ohm resistors work?

You may have a problem or didn't check it correctly. That value should change from the "on" position to when you crank it. You did[I] find the correct wires??? You also had the cut yellow wire that goes to the ignition switch and not down into the dash correct? Usually what I do is this.... Have the system back together and see if the car will start. If it starts and the security light is off, then I cut that wire and test as stated. If that light is already on and the car is running, it's in the fail-pass mode and it may not show the proper resistance code. If I can't get that light to go out, I sometimes go ahead and check the code and see if it [I]does change when it's just on and when I crank it. If it does change, I'll try to get that value and see if it'll work OK. If I can't get a proper code or if it doesn't change, I'll pick a code that is double that amount and then go into the passlock learn sequence

I have same problem...sometimes (at the worse time)..my 2003 Impala won't start. Usually the Security light will come on a day or so...or same day when this happens.

What is the FASTEST way to FIX it so that it will just START...???

I don't care if the SECURITY light is always on...or whatever...I just want the care to ALWAYS start....

Thanks
MV:banghead:

While the car is running, cut and tape off the yellow wire ends. Just make sure not to EVER let your car's battery go dead or have to change it.

You may have a problem or didn't check it correctly. That value should change from the "on" position to when you crank it. You did[I] find the correct wires??? You also had the cut yellow wire that goes to the ignition switch and not down into the dash correct? Usually what I do is this.... Have the system back together and see if the car will start. If it starts and the security light is off, then I cut that wire and test as stated. If that light is already on and the car is running, it's in the fail-pass mode and it may not show the proper resistance code. If I can't get that light to go out, I sometimes go ahead and check the code and see if it [I]does change when it's just on and when I crank it. If it does change, I'll try to get that value and see if it'll work OK. If I can't get a proper code or if it doesn't change, I'll pick a code that is double that amount and then go into the passlock learn sequence
The car has been sitting in pieces out in the driveway for 3 days. I took the metal piece under the steering column off and brought the ignition switch out under the steering wheel. I found the 3 wires: black, yellow, and white. I don't have a tester that has alligator clips at the end of it so i have to somehow hold the points of the leads on the wires while starting the car. Maybe I just need to buy a tester that has clips so it'll stay in place. But when i have the yellow wires touching, the car does start without the security light on. When the car is running and I take apart the yellow wire, security light comes on. So what I should be doing is testing the resistance while I'm cranking the ignition and while the car is in reverse so it doesn't start? What setting should I have my meter on? I'll go out and try it all again and post back. I just want to make sure this thing starts every time. It's for my girlfriend to commute to school and for her to be stuck up there because it decides not to start would suck. Thanks again for all the help. I hope I can get this soon.....-------OK, just got back in from testing it again. With e-brake on, car in reverse, key in "on" position, 1306 (setting on 2000), crank the key, went up to 1311, then back down. I had bought a package of 680ohm resistors, I just put 2 together, hooked one end to black wire and hooked the other to the yellow wire going away from the ignition, started the car, and no security light! You think I'm good to go with putting this back together or is 1360ohms too much compared to the readings I got??

vando, sounds like you got it!!! Some of these GM cars can handle more of a difference than others. I was told if you are within 5 or 10% of the value, you'd be OK.

vando, sounds like you got it!!! Some of these GM cars can handle more of a difference than others. I was told if you are within 5 or 10% of the value, you'd be OK.
funniest thing. I think I have it all figured out. I got outside this morning to start the car, and nothing. Turned it to on position for 10 minutes until security light stops flashing and then it started. I attached the resistors again while it was running. I'm waiting for it to reset again then I'll see if it works before I put it all back together. Good thing I didn't put it back together yet or I would've been pissed!!!

keep me posted!

keep me posted!
Once the reset mode was finished I got the car started and put the resistors in place. After taping everything up and putting the ignition back in place I started it to make sure it was still working. Barely started, but that's because I was nearly out of gas, good thing I live across the street from a gas station. Filled it up, drove it to work tonight, just got home, and all the starts were great. I really hope this continues to work. Thank you so much for all the help guys!!!

Yes well you should be good to go then. If you have the same thing happen again, you are probably facing a bad BCM which can also show the same signs.

The only way to put out the light is to put in a resistor. Cutting the yellow wire with the engine running disables the security system and turns on the light. If you didn't install a switch to reconnect the yellow wire and your battery dies or you disconnect the battery teminals, the car won't start anymore, untill it sees the resistance coming from the ignition switch or you wait 10 minutes everytime you start it.

black electrical tape works well also

The option of cutting the yellow wire and installing the switch was not covered completely. First of all, which type switch would be best, and secondly, how would the switch be used? After cutting the yellow wire with the car running and installing the switch (presumably in the OFF position), you would then need to toggle the switch (back ON) whenever the battery went dead or was disconnected ... and then back OFF again?

Another way to ask this question would be: OFF would be the default switch position, but the switch would need to be toggled to the ON position under what conditions? And would it need to be toggled ON, then some action taken, then toggled back OFF, or would it just be OFF-to-ON-to-OFF in succession?

Depending on what switch you use "on" would be a completed circuit so the security system would be in working form. When "off" it is a short or incomplete circuit causing the car to go into "fail-enable mode". The problem with that is like you asked, if your battery went completely dead or you had to replace the car's battery you'd have to put the switch to the "on" position. BUT, lets say a year or 2 down the road the part of the security system you bypassed with that switch is completely broken then flipping that switch will do no good.

Besides, having some little toggle switch somewhere normally doesn't look to good.

Plus, turning the switch ON to re-make the circuit just brings you back to the initial problem where the ignition block isn't outputting the correct resistance to the computer, right?

So back to the insertion of the resistance: instead of "skinning" the insulation off such a small guage wire, wouldn't it be better to break the wire and insert some kind of 3-screw "T" connector? Wouldn't this give a more positive contact?

you could but if you don't want to mess with that wire you can go directly to chassis instead.

mine just started coming on and the same way to reset the low tire pressure light worked for me turn your car off and turn the key to on dont start it and turn your parking lights on three times not your head lights it should reset the light. turn your car off and try starting it again.

pj, not sure what you are talking about but what you explained to do will do nothing for the security issue.

Guys,
I just fixed my 2002 impala security light issue. It cost me 2 hours, no money. Here is how the system works. The passlock sensor and the ignition switch are in series. When you turn your key you generate a low current read by the body control module. If the current generated is out of range the BCM won't recognize the signal and your car won't start for 10 min. There could be different reasons why the signal is out of range. On most of the cases the ignition switch contacts are burned out, and this will cause a voltage drop on the contact so the signal getting to the BCM is going to be lower than usual so it will be out of range. Take your ignition switch out (if you don't know how send me your e-mail (believe me I'm not looking for e-mail addresses I just need to scan the instructions, since I have them only printed out) and I'll send you detailed instructions for free. Once the switch is out remove the cover on the back of the switch (it is clipped on, all you need is a flat head screwdriver). Once the cover is removed you should see 5 fairly big electric contacts. I bet at least one or two are burned out. Clean them with fine sand paper until their surface is clean and flat and make sure the steel springs pressing the contacts together are tight and are pushing the contacts firmly. If not, using pliers bend them to get good contacts. Reinstall the switch and your car should start every time. If the contacts are really bad you might have to change the ignition switch.
I know dealers want to change every part on the car so please do not let them change the passlock sensor. The passlock sensor is a hall sensor and there is no reason for the sensor to go bad.

arabbitowner,

So how does your solution square with the previous solution of cutting the yellow wire and installing the permanent resistance value (PRV)? It sounds like the PRV solution will also fail eventually as the contacts get worse and worse inside the ignition switch. Is this true?

Colt, to answer your question it won't or not atleast directly. The transponder part of the PK2 system is inside the ignition switch itself. So, sometimes when you remove the lock and either clean it or replace it sometimes causes the security system to go back to working temporarly. This is why one of the first things dealers do is replace the lock itself. Most of the time when they do this it'll begin to work normally but usually with in a few months it'll act up again.

This problems totally is a pain in the butt. I've been dealing with it for one full year now. In the beginning it was sporadic. Now....it's everyday.

Sometimes all my lights will strobe when I start my car. I've performed the many solutions, starting it in N, applying parking brake, lock unlock doors from outside, wait 10-20 minutes. Now there is a "clicking" noise that comes from the passenger side fuse box. It sounds as if I morse code is being sent out with some kind of urgentcy. Always clicks now. I cannot rely on my daytime running lights due to my lights flashing. I have to pull them on. My lights will flash in unicne with the clicking noise. Of course the security light flashes, check engine light alternates with it, battery light flashes as well. OH YEAH..don't let me forget to mention...when all this happens, it renders my A/C dead. Only blows hot air.

I grew up in Michigan...lived across from two GM plants. So I did my part in buying the american car. I WILL NEVER OWN AN AMERICAN CAR AGAIN. That's GM for you...and they wonder why it has collapsed to the sorry state they're in now. Don't even think they will do a recall on this.

I'm thankful for these websites...consumers having to take care of defective AMERICAN products. Embarrasing as a nation.

Roger Smith :loser:

I have now had this problem fixed for over 8 months and haven't had another issue with this Impala not starting. My girlfriend uses it everyday and there have been no problems. There are nearly 270,000 miles on it and it still runs great and strong. The only issue is I don't have overdrive, which hurts the gas mileage a little. I wouldn't completely rule out GM's or other American cars because of an issue that's easily fixed with a resistor that costs less than a dollar and a few hours of your time. This is a very old thread by the way, start a fresh one next time. Good luck with your Impala.

Start a new thread, this was 8 months old at the last post, thanks.