Lower Intake Gaskets 96 3.8

I am doing the lower intake gaskets on my 96 windstar 3.8 and something just does not look right. Disassembly went fine, I found the EGR ports pluged as expected (the reason for my misfire codes). I also found a rupture in the lower intake gasket so I know that is where my coolant leak into the front pass side cylinder is coming from. Got all the parts cleaned up and started to install the lower intake, this is where things do not look right.

I put the 2 new intake gaskets and 2 new end seals in place and dropped the lower intake on the engine. When I went to bolt it down it looked to be sitting to high and the bolts wanted to go in at an angle. I managed to get a few on each side caught and snuged up, this pulled the manifold down and was then able to get the rest in straight.

It's all bolted up now but does not look right, the manifold looks to be tighter at the bottom of the sealing area than at the top, the end seals do not look like they are crushed as far as they should be either. I have loosened all the bolts and retorked them with the same results.

It looks like the new gasket is thicker than the old one, is that possable. I know that all the ports line up properly and the right (rear) and left (front) gaskets are on the proper sides and the front markings are pointing at the waterpump end of the engine.

I know the gaskets where redesigned but is this right ?? It's not like the gasket and end seals are not making contact it just looks to me like the bottom touched before the top.

Has anyone seen this before, I would check with Ford parts but it's July 4th and I do not put alot of faith in them anyway. Got the wrong parts from them before.

I know everyone says use ford gaskets for this one but has anyone ever used FelPro intake gaskets??

There are 2 size gaskets for the '96 3.8L engine.
3mm and 4mm
Engines built before a certain date use the 3mm...and engines that have had the heads planed may also use the thicker size.
I would try a phone call to them to try to get the straight scoop.
Did you include your VIN on your order?.....I have twice gotten the wrong part......once from each of 2 different places.....but I was lazy and did not include my VIN.
The VIN should tell them the correct size for your vehicle.
I have pictures posted of my lower intake manifold gasket job.....I don't know if they will be of any help....but may give you some point of reference to compare to.

I think I just found the answer, I went to RockAuto.com to look at the FelPro part numbers. They list 2, a 3mm and a 4mm thick. I think ford gave me the 4mm and I need the 3mm. Does anyone know what thickness the following ford part numbers are XF2Z-9439-AA and XF2Z-9439-BA

I am thinking I have the wrong gaskets can anyone confirm this

I do not know....maybe a internet search on the part number will help.
I used the 3mm, I don't remember, right off, if the part number(s) are shown in my parts pictures.
As I recall reading.... the "AA" and "BA" parts of the number are revision numbers.
I do know also....that FORD changed their numbering system on at least some of the parts for the '96.

Wiswind

Your pics do show part numbers yours are XU2Z-9439-CA AND DA and mine are XF2Z-9439-AA AND BA.

I could not find any referance to the thickness of my gaskets in a Google search but did find a TSB that shows your gaskets used from 6/26/05 to 5/01/97 and they do say that you need to catch the center bolts first to draw the manifold down so you can catch the other bolts.


www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/fulltext/show_article.php?tsb=99-20-7



Do you know if your van is consirered a "Late" build date? Mine is 8/96 I assume mine is Late

kevink1955
I had the same problem with my 96 windstar 3.8 litre. When I installed the manifold the bolts didnt seem to fit. The old bolts were almost hand tight. I was able to remove some without a wrench. When I put the manifold back I thought it would be no problem getting the manifold in before the rtv set up (about 15 minutes) However it was close. I dont seem to have any problems with any leaks or loss of fluid. I believe everthing is fine. I thought the same as you maybe wrong gaskets. Mine were from Team Ford. Part # F68Z-9433-C I still am not sure if mine are the 3mm or 4mm. I know since I am the original owner that the heads have not been machined. My numbers are different between yours an Wiswind I think because mine was the complete upper end gasket kit. It included the lower intakes the upper intakes the throttle body and iac gaskets. Ididnt like the way it assembled either. Let me know what you find. I may call Team Ford and see what size mine are also. All data list them as right side XU2Z9439CA left side as XU2Z9439DA. I paid $44.04 for the set. Post back with any questions or info. Thanks..........

The fordtruck link I posted shows your kit contains the same gaskets as Wiswind used, mine have a diffrent part number. I still think I have the wrong gaskets. Will check with the dealer in the morning, hope I can get him to shed some light on this even if it means I pay for another set of gaskets. I just want to do this once.

I am thinking I got early gaskets and have a late vehicle.

Will let you know the outcome

Wiswind, I did have the VIN with me but the parts guy never asked. It's the first time I used this dealer, my previous dealer always asked for the VIN but they went out of business a few months ago. As I walked to the parts counter of the new dealer I was saying to my self that I would never have a car serviced here, this place is a cramped disorginiszed mess.

Just got back from the dealer where I was told my build date (8/96) could have either 3mm or 4mm. I now have the 3mm set XU2Z-9439-CA and DA, they will take the 4mm set XF2Z-9439-AA and BA back for credit even though I mounted them.

It looks like the early builds had 4mm and the late builds had 3mm. Will work on it this afternoon, hope this is the last problem.

My build date was 7/96
I will say that I am super happy that I have not been using any coolant since the repair.

Don't forget to change the oil and filter before starting the engine!

This spring, I had a bunch of work done at an independant shop....that works on a LOT of windstars.
The owner told me that "I think we will see 300K with this vehicle", which is a good vote of confidence on a 11 year old vehicle with 183K (at the time) on the clock.
He based his opinion on the fact that, not only had he been under, in, and around the vehicle.....he had driven it and said "The motor is running perfectly, and the transmission is shifting exactly when it should".
I had it in for a leak in the air conditioning system.....was the evaporator coil.....which is a real pain to replace.

They also found a broken spring (way up where I could not see it) and installed Monroe "quick struts", and replaced a wheel bearing that had very slight play, replaced a ball joint that had very slight play, and installed new front calipers......all this stuff was factory original.....and, as the owner of the repair shop told me.....is "routine" on an old, high mileage vehicle.

I plan to keep driving this vehicle for a couple more years.....as, even with paying to have this stuff done.....is a pretty cheap investment for another 100K miles.

My point being.....it is a worthwhile repair.

kevink1955
I just checked the build date on the sticker on driver side door post. 10/95 It is titled and considered as a 96. So what gaskets am I supposed to have? I wonder when they made changes to the builds in the 95 model year? Could I have some of the problems or expect some of the problems they had. Head gaskets, flywheel and torque converter problems. Was the 3.8 even an option in the 95 windstar?

kevink1955
I just checked the build date on the sticker on driver side door post. 10/95 It is titled and considered as a 96. So what gaskets am I supposed to have? I wonder when they made changes to the builds in the 95 model year? Could I have some of the problems or expect some of the problems they had. Head gaskets, flywheel and torque converter problems. Was the 3.8 even an option in the 95 windstar?

Acording to the ford parts guy I spoke to today the early build 96 should have 4mm gaskets, mine needed the 3mm gaskets. When I pulled the manifold back off this morning the end rail seals where I had put a daub of RTV where barely crushed. No way would it have sealed up with the wrong gasket. I can not tell you what ford considers an early build but he said my 8/96 could have had either gasket, I think he was covering his A$$ for giving me the wrong parts in the first place. The link I posted to the ford truck site shows 7/96 as the 3mm date.

Head gaskets where a problem on the 95's but not on the 96, trans problems can be avoided by regular fluid changes and driving it with a light foot. This vehicle was not built to drag race take it easy and it will last. If you tow a trailer or drive in the hills I would add a trans cooler.

It's all back together and runing with no leaks, took it on a 10 mile road test and to let the ECM Re-learn. All went well and was on my block almost ready too pull up the driveway when I got a check engine light. It was not the flashing missfire light I had before, it's runing great so I will have to get it scaned in the morning.

Hopefully it's just some dirt on an O2 sensor from openng up the engine or a vac leak or something I left loose. Will post the code when I get it.

I got a nasty misfire right after my lower intake manifold gasket job.
I was advised by the mechanic that I use for more difficult jobs....and my yearly "safety check" to use Berryman's B-12 Chemtool.
It took about 5 tanks of gasoline.....treated with 1 can each.....problem gradually went away.
I am guessing that I knocked some bits of dirt loose in my messing around.
Of course......at this age.....our '96-ers are likely to have some brittle and worn vaccum lines.....and you touched the IMRC actuators, which are known for getting ruptured vaccum diaphrams.......1 leaky actuator will rob all the vaccum from the other actuator....so trace down which one if the codes indicate a IMRC issue.
Remove the vaccum line from 1....and put your finger over it....while watching the other actuator.....if it pulls in when you put your finger over the vaccum line....then you have found the bad one.

Of course.....1st would be to check to make sure that the vaccum lines are secure......all over the place....
As you know...there are a BUNCH of vaccum line connections on the back side of the upper intake manifold.
Also, check to see if you can select the air control to Defrost, Vent, and Floor....to verify that that connection to the upper intake manifold is good.
And....make sure that the Big vaccum line to the power brake system is secure at both ends.....as well as the PCV lines.......INCLUDING the stiff line that goes from the front valve cover to the back side.....mid-point of the flex hose that goes from the Air cleaner to the throttle body.

96wWindstar180K.....YES the 3.8 was available on the '95.
HOWEVER.....If you have the big black upper intake manifold.....it is the '96 engine.....They added that intake for the '96 model year....and took the power from 155hp to 200hp for the 3.8L engine.
Also....starting in 1996, the front wheel drive version of the 3.8L was available ONLY in the Windstar.
I did read something about a change from a "composite" to a bi-metal head gasket between 1996 and 1997....maybe that has something to do with it?
I do know that the head gasket on the 1995 WAS an issue....and that the 1996 is MUCH better....although it has some of the reputation carry over from the '95....but it seems that the lower intake manifold gasket issue is more often the real problem.

The other coolant leak to be on the lookout for is the front cover...aka timing cover.
That is a real major thing to replace.....I would personally have someone do that job for me.
I had a very slight seapage there...and was told by the dealership to just ignore it.
I put some Bar's Stop leak in....and that has kept it sealed for years....I think catching it so early helped.

Im still running fine except for the P0420 which pops up Im going to switch around the oxygen sensors and see if it switches to bank to as you advised. (Wiswind)

kevink1955
Check the vacume line also at the top of the intake manifold. That 90 degree elbow becomes soft and collapses in on itself. A new elbow can be made from a pre molded bypass hose from the help area at Autozone or most auto supply stores. The one I bought I cut in half and have an extra. Also check the grommet in the rear valve cover that the pcv valve sits in. Mine would slide in and out to easy. Its really hard to mixup the vacume lines since the ends dictate where they go. The lines do crack. Im assuming it is vacume related. One other spot to check is the bottom of the air cleaner where the wires go in. The grommet sometimes works its way loose. Dpfe also goes bad. If you have the original aluminum one it might be time to replace anyway. Newer design is plastic. Buy it from the dealer though. I have heard problems rom after market.

Thanks for all the tips, will scan the codes today so I start off looking in the right direction

I read the ford truck link I posted and it looks like I mis-quoted it as far as the 3mm start date, below is a direct cut from the link

Windstar 1996-1998 3.8L SPI 6/26/1995 Through 1/15/1998
XU2Z-9439-AA XU2E-9439-AA Lower Intake Side Gasket - RH
XU2Z-9439-BA XU2E-9441-AA Lower Intake Side Gasket - LH

So it looks like anything built after 6/26/95 requires 3mm gaskets and aything before is 4mm, How the parts guy gave me 4mm for an 8/96 build I do not know.

kevink1955
Now you have me wondering if I did'nt have the 4mm set. I dont have the packaging any more but the part # is correct. Did the thinner set assemble easier? or did you still have to play with the manifold bolts?

kevink1955
Now you have me wondering if I did'nt have the 4mm set. I dont have the packaging any more but the part # is correct. Did the thinner set assemble easier? or did you still have to play with the manifold bolts?

You said in another post that the kit you used

All data list them as right side XU2Z9439CA left side as XU2Z9439DA

If that is the correct number they are 3mm gaskets, I still had to fight a little to get the manifold in place. The TSB from the ford truck site says you have to catch 2 of the center bolts to draw the manifold down so you can catch the rest of the bolts.

I think you have the correct gaskets, as I said before the 4mm gaskets held the manifold up did not crush the end seals so there would have been an oil leak if I left it as is.

I do not know if it helps but the 3mm gaskets I got had copper color spacers at the bolt holes and the 4mm set had silver/gray spacers. Looking at Wiswinds pictures you can see what I am talking about as well as the 3mm part numbers.

Update on the check engine light after the gasket replacment

Went in to our truck shop to get the codes read, they where using the scanner to solve a driveabilty problem on an ambulance so I could not use it.

I disconnected the battery cable to clear it and went on to do some errands, I drove about 45 mixed traffic/hwy miles before I got back home and the check engine light has NOT come back.

I think it's cured, it seems to be runing better than before but that may be cause I got used to the wifes Escort in the last few days.

When you "clear" the codes, the PCM has to re-learn the "drivability" information, which includes fuel trim information and the ideal transmission shift points.
So don't worry if you notice a few minor shift and performance issues at first.

Also, over the next few days, check the coolant level as it may take a few days to "burp" all the air out of the system.

Well I am doing my gaskets this weekend!

I had had a cyl 4 missfire, and needed to change the plugs and wires anyway[110k on OE stuff] so figured sence I was in there, I would takel the intake. It was pretty crudded up. Cleaned it well,about half the egr jets were more then half plugged.[number four was clear as could be. I bet it was getting all, and thus the missfire] Guess my only fear is that I remember where all the wires went. :grinno: :grinno:


And thanks for who ever posted about removing the cowel. That is making it a LOT easer to work on!!!!!!!

Finished the job today!!! Runs awsome!!! Still need some miles on it to get the PCM to relearn, but other then that good.

I tell you... I dont know what book time is on that job, but I should did not make any money today.:grinyes: Well maybe concerding I did the plugs, and wires, cleaned the TB, and IAC, and replaced the EGR tube, and fitting on the manafold.

Thanks for all the tips guys!!!!

s1120
How did your manifold line up when you put it back? Were the bolts hard to start and line up? Just wondering I also have a 96 3.8 and did the gaskets and my manifold took alot to line up. I wondered if I had the right gaskets.

Glad everything worked out for you.

s1120
How did your manifold line up when you put it back? Were the bolts hard to start and line up? Just wondering I also have a 96 3.8 and did the gaskets and my manifold took alot to line up. I wondered if I had the right gaskets.

Glad everything worked out for you.

Took a little playing around, but not much. The bolts at first did not line up, so I Made shure I could see the holes, then as I started them, I leaned on the intake to push it down a bit. Once they started they went right in and snugged it right up.

s1120
Thats how mine was I guess. It came off easier then it went on. You have not started getting any hesitaion problem have you? I dont know if mine is related to the gasket change or something else. Thanks

Did mine a little over 2 weeks ago and it's also runing great. if you remember I was orignily given the wrong gaskets by the dealer.

96W -- After fitting it up with the wrong gaskets I am convinced that it would never have sealed properly, dont worry about yours. If it's runing and not loosing coolant or oil your fine. Now go after the hesiation problem, have you looked at the Throtle Position Sensor (TPS) If it has a dead spot the ECM will not know that you moved the throtle and cannot adjust fuel properly.

s1120
Thats how mine was I guess. It came off easier then it went on. You have not started getting any hesitaion problem have you? I dont know if mine is related to the gasket change or something else. Thanks

How long ago have you done it?? My had a wicked Hesitaion right after I did it, but with about 200miles on it the last two days, it has cleared up. Needed to give the computer time to learn.

Well a update on my work...

Check engine light came on a few days after. Turned out to be a 401 code, so I replaced the DPFG last night. So far so go. It was REAL bad!!!!

it seems that 100k+ of neglect, has given me a list of things that are "kinda" bad, and all put together brought o' windy to his knees

s1120
Sorry I posted back but it didnt post up. I did my gaskets about 2 or 3 months ago. I have run injector cleaner for about 600 miles now. I replaced the tps, ccrm, cleaned the maf sensor and so on. On Wiswinds suggestion I am going to look at the dpfe much closer. I replaced it about a year or so ago. I know the problem with hesitation is probably something easy but it has me stumped. I may just bring it in and have someone diagnose it. Gald to hear yor up and running again.