Value Cover Repacement ?
AvalonJohn
06-26-2007, 01:29 PM
Guys,
Planning to do the entire leckemby procedure including replacing the LH valve cover. I was going to do the valve cover first on Sat and then on Sunday do the Plemun/manifold procedures (replace bolts, seals & clean ERG's). Haynes manual says to take off the Upper Intake Manifold Plenum if I remove either value cover on my 3.8 ..... is this necessary to change the LH valve cover ? It sure doesn't look like it.
Planning to do the entire leckemby procedure including replacing the LH valve cover. I was going to do the valve cover first on Sat and then on Sunday do the Plemun/manifold procedures (replace bolts, seals & clean ERG's). Haynes manual says to take off the Upper Intake Manifold Plenum if I remove either value cover on my 3.8 ..... is this necessary to change the LH valve cover ? It sure doesn't look like it.
12Ounce
06-26-2007, 02:01 PM
That what concerns me about Haynes and their fit-all-years writing style. On some model from '95 thru '00, it may be necessary to remove the upper intake plenum. But I don't remember it being necessary on my '99 3.8.
Ed_Strong
06-26-2007, 10:07 PM
It's not necesary to remove the Upper Plenum in order to take the Valve Cover off. But the Valve Cover fix is so easy that you'll be better of doing the hard stuff first and if you don't happen to get done on Saturday, (which I really doubt) then you could wrap up on Sunday!
I recommend you remove the Cowl for better clearance and I would take advantage of the oportunity and change the Spark Plugs if they have not been changed before. Watch out for the torque specs, especially on the Isolator Bolts, as they snap easy. I never reached the torque specs on mine and one of them made an ugly snap sound, so I left them alone for fear of breaking one.
Print out the leckemby.net procedure and go by it... just use the Haynes Manual as reference. Here is the link for the procedure (http://www.leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html)
Also go ahead and read some of the posts from earlier repairs on the 171 and 174 Codes so you can pickup some pointers and tips on getting the most out of the repair. It's not a bad job to perform but it could turn ugly if you make the wrong move.
I recommend you remove the Cowl for better clearance and I would take advantage of the oportunity and change the Spark Plugs if they have not been changed before. Watch out for the torque specs, especially on the Isolator Bolts, as they snap easy. I never reached the torque specs on mine and one of them made an ugly snap sound, so I left them alone for fear of breaking one.
Print out the leckemby.net procedure and go by it... just use the Haynes Manual as reference. Here is the link for the procedure (http://www.leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html)
Also go ahead and read some of the posts from earlier repairs on the 171 and 174 Codes so you can pickup some pointers and tips on getting the most out of the repair. It's not a bad job to perform but it could turn ugly if you make the wrong move.
12Ounce
06-27-2007, 08:32 AM
Ed, are you sure you never reached torque? 84 in-lbs (7.3 ft-lbs) is not much torque ... just a firm twist of the wrist.
AvalonJohn
06-27-2007, 01:07 PM
Guys,
Thanks for the info. One last question before I try all this .... do you guys use RTV on the Valve Cover gasket ?
Thanks,
AJ
Thanks for the info. One last question before I try all this .... do you guys use RTV on the Valve Cover gasket ?
Thanks,
AJ
12Ounce
06-27-2007, 01:10 PM
I did not ...
Ed_Strong
06-27-2007, 01:44 PM
Ed, are you sure you never reached torque? 84 in-lbs (7.3 ft-lbs) is not much torque ... just a firm twist of the wrist.
That's the problem I had... I didn't feel a firm twist on mine! The rubber just kept compressing and it made it feel like there was no end. I started a 8ft-lbs and never reached a click, thehn went to 7ft-lbs and lowered to 6ft-lbs until one of the bolts (the one in the top right by cyl no 5) snaped. Not sure if it was the bolt as it didn't break or if it was the plastic lower plenum half that cracked. To me it was very frustating cause I knew it was a little torque to apply but it felt like the bolts were too loose to leave them alone.
So far I'm doing OK... no codes no issues, so I'm happy.
Just hope I don't have to take em off again!
Guys,
Thanks for the info. One last question before I try all this .... do you guys use RTV on the Valve Cover gasket ?
I didn't use any RTV on my Valve Cover Gasket either and I re-used the old one. Just make sure you clean the mating parts real good and you'll be OK.
That's the problem I had... I didn't feel a firm twist on mine! The rubber just kept compressing and it made it feel like there was no end. I started a 8ft-lbs and never reached a click, thehn went to 7ft-lbs and lowered to 6ft-lbs until one of the bolts (the one in the top right by cyl no 5) snaped. Not sure if it was the bolt as it didn't break or if it was the plastic lower plenum half that cracked. To me it was very frustating cause I knew it was a little torque to apply but it felt like the bolts were too loose to leave them alone.
So far I'm doing OK... no codes no issues, so I'm happy.
Just hope I don't have to take em off again!
Guys,
Thanks for the info. One last question before I try all this .... do you guys use RTV on the Valve Cover gasket ?
I didn't use any RTV on my Valve Cover Gasket either and I re-used the old one. Just make sure you clean the mating parts real good and you'll be OK.
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