Half axle replacement how to?

I`ve searched all around trying to determine if I want to tackle this project on my 97 Windstar 3.8l. Has anyone here done the job and have any helpful hints? I have the Haynes book I am going to use as a guide but I am a little skitish on starting this project on my own. Any info to make it go quicker is greatly appreciated.

Tips for replacing axle

1) Make sure you have the right size socket for the axle nut. Never use an air impact wrench to remove or install the axle nut. You can easily damage the wheel bearings from the impacts. Do it by hand and a long ratchet or breaker bar.
2) You will have to disconnect the ball joint from the control arm and pry the control arm down. So you will need a pretty heft pry bar.
3) Sometimes the splined end of the axle shaft can rust to the mating hub. If that happens, you'll need plenty or rust penetrant and possibly a puller.
4) The book says you need a slide hammer to remove the inner CV joint. I've never had to do that on a Ford. Slip a pry bar inbetween the trans and the tulip on the inner CV and give it a quick snap. It will pop out.
5) Never, never, never remove both axles at the same time unless you have a side gear alignment tools. If you remove both axles, the side gears in the differential can slide out of place. Don't ask how I know that.
6) Getting the inner joint back into place can be a bit tricky. Easiest way is rub a thin coat of grease over the circlip. That will help it compress. If you can't push it in, use a wooden 2x2 up against the tulip and use a rubber mallet to give a quick "tap". Nothing huge or you will damage the boot.
7) Always use a new axle nut. The rebuilt shaft should come with a new nut. The old one cannot be reused.
8) You will need a torque wrench to torque the new nut and the ball joint fastener

Oh, and remember to remove the ABS sensor before pulling out on the knuckle. You don't want to stress the sensor wire.

Thanks for the reply and info. I just have two more questions;
-Even though I plan on doing one axle at a time, does the entire front need to be lifted up or can I just jack one side at a time and do it?
- Also what is a Tulip? I assume you mean the end of the axle where it meets the tranny.
I want to thank you again for any help.

Some good tips 'RickMN'. In addition, leave the tire on, and on the ground, put the breaker bar on the nut and just loosen it, and then jack up the vehicle and start removing everything. And yes you can raise just one side.

The "tulip" is the shape of the pressed steel housing of the inner joint. Yes, its against the tranny housing.

If you're going to replace the axles anyway, you may have luck just tugging on the outboard end of the axle once its loose from the steering knuckle. If it comes apart, so what, it will still work as a exchange core.

I hardily agree with NOT using a hammer to extract the splined axle from the hub. Use a two-jaw puller. A puller can also be helpful for loosening tie rod ends from steering knuckles.

Good point 12-ounce. I usually like to take them out whole, but I'm a little obsessive compulsive about that. For a newbie, your way saves a the hassel of "wrestling" with the whole axle. Just put the two pieces in the core box and return to store.

shotgunphil (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=320611)

What is wrong with the axles that they need to be replaced? When I've replaced axles I've done one side at a time and jacked up the vehical on one side to tilt it so the fluid doesn't run out. I've used a pry bar to get the axle out of the trannie. A quick pop useally gets them out. I"ve used a three jaw puller to get the axle out of the hub. I've pulled the ball joint out to swing out the hub. Make sure you hang the caliper on a piece of wire or something so not to strain the hose.

I hope this might help some.

Regards

Dan

:grinno: Great time for this thread. I'm tackling the drivers side this weekend. I think I've read not to reuse the strut bolt as well. They list two different ones, so I'll have to take it in & match it while it's out.
Interesting point though.... the new axle is 79.00 but has a $85 core charge. They are worth more dead than alive!

The whole reason for a new axle is the exciter ring for the ABS sensor is cracked. I'll let you know how it goes.

The whole reason for a new axle is the exciter ring for the ABS sensor is cracked. I'll let you know how it goes.


So - it seems to be easyer to change only the exiter ring.

I´ve done this several times - cheap, quick and easy.

In Germany an new ring kost´s about 38$ (28EUR)

Here is a picture of an broken ring:
http://galerie.windstar-club.de/details.php?image_id=142&sessionid=5724f7a2688eeeefb1a9a2f342cc0d76

shotgunphil (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=320611)

What is wrong with the axles that they need to be replaced? When I've replaced axles I've done one side at a time and jacked up the vehical on one side to tilt it so the fluid doesn't run out.



The Drivers side has had a torn boot for a couple years now. So I am going to replace the pair of them perhaps on the 4th of July. If possible I will take some pictures and try to figure out how to post them.

Also you are the first to mention Tranny fluid, is this an issue with the Windstars?? Should I put a bucket under it?

Unless the car is tilted sideways a very steep angle ... you will lose a quart, or so, when the axle is pulled.

Replaced the driver's side shaft the other day. Went fairly well. Having a ball joint seperator bar was a must as there is very little to pry from with a regular bar. Used a new axle nut but NO-ONE had a new ball joint nut & bolt. Special ordered & will pop in a new one when it comes in.

I'm confused about the loss of tranny fluid though. did the whole job & not a drop came out. The driver's side was higher up (on the jacks) but still. I checked fluid levels afetr the job, and it was fine.

Good pointer about not using an impact gun on the axle nut, this was repeated by the parts store guys and a mechanic I mentioned it too.

The trick was to disconnect the sabilizer bar connector top & bottom, and the bolt holding the strut doesn't need to be touched. The whole assembly will then swing out and allow the shaft to come out.

I found the lower ball joint to be a real pain by not staying out of the way, so I used a breaker bar with a socket on the nut to the stabilizer bar. Then I coild just push down on the bar to hold the ball joint down during removal & installation.

The new shaft doesn't slide into the hub all the way, so I had to pot the washer on & tighten down on the axle nut to get it to slide in.

All in all it went well & now the ABS is back to normal.....Yay.

Thanks for the pointers & see you all on the next job.

Well happy 4th of July! This morning I went directly to the car to start the replacement of both axles and finished up around midday. Here is a summary of what I did...
Drivers side

1. While the vehicle was on the ground I loosened up the axle nut (30 mm) almost all the way (I did place a jack and took some of the weight off the tire but not all.) I used a 1/2" breaker bar and a piece of pipe slid over it so I had more leverage, it was tight!
2. Lifted the tire off the ground and pulled it off, then I removed the lower ball joint Pinch bolt (18mm) -this is a splined bolt so don`t try to loosen the bolt side it will only loosen at the nut. I left the nut on a few threads and tapped the nut to drive the bolt out.
3. After that I placed a large pry bar tween the frame and lower bar and pushed down to ease the lower ball joint out of its home, when it popped out I pulled the disc assembly forward and relesed the tension on the pry bar. Just be carefull it doesn`t crush the ABS sensor!
4. After this I loosened the nut (another 18mm) for the stabilizer bar to the strut in order to pop it out so I could have more play with the outer assembly. This turned out to be the biggest pain of the job because it seemed to have some pressure on it and it made the bolt crooked so I couldn`t just pop it out. I ended up loosening the other nut so i would get a little more play and then wedged it down with a prybar till i could pop the bolt out.
Removal of the Cv joint axle itself
1. I then pulled forward on the disc assembly and tried to hit the end of the axle with a heavy hard rubber mallet to tap it through the splined end for removal. This went very smoothly as it moved out easily.
2. After some pulling and twisting of the disc brake assembly and the CV joint to pull/ push it totally out of the hub and into position for eventual removal I then laid down and crawled under to fit a prybar and try to "pop" the inner axle out from the Transmission. I had a lot of apprehension as to how hard this might be but with one quick push it came right out.
3. Pulled out the entire assembly.
Installing the new axle
1. Placed the new axle and lined up the splines and pushed it in until it hit the ciclip. I then lined up the axle as straight as possible and whacked the end with a hard rubber mallet to seat it over the circlip. This went pretty smoothly but was a pain to line it up somewhat straight and push the disc brake assy. out of the way at the same time.
2. Pulled the disc brake assembly and twisted the outer CV joint around until it mated up with the splines and slid it in.
3. Set the stabilizer bolts and tightened up snug but not tightened all the way yet. THis needed the prybar again in order to push the bolt back into the hole.
4. Used the pry bar an the lower bar to line up the lower ball joint and get it back into the hole it came out of, this took some manipulating of the ball joint and the brake assembly until they lined up and it slid right in.
5. Placed a NEW bolt and nut (they are hard to get! I ordered them from the Ford dealer and 2 nuts and bolts cost 15.00$$) and tightened up to torque required. Then went back and tightened the stabilizer bolts.
6. Placed the old washer and a New Axle nut (came with the Axle) on. I tightened up using a prybar across the lugnuts and the 30mm nut until fairly tight.
7. Placed the tire on and tightened the lugnuts then dropped the car until the tire was contacting the pavement. I then proceeded to tighten the Axle nut to torque listed.
8. dropped this side of the car off the jack and moved to the passenger side.

The Passenger side was almost exactly the same but I did have to borrow a slide hammer to "pop" out the inner axle. And I needed my gear puller to push the old axle out from the disc brake assembly. No big deal but tools someone may need. Thanks for all the advice and the Haynes book was a huge help.

Well.....I guess the fluid isn't an issue with the Windstar. I'm glad the axels got changed.

Regards

Dan

:grinno: Great time for this thread. I'm tackling the drivers side this weekend. I think I've read not to reuse the strut bolt as well. They list two different ones, so I'll have to take it in & match it while it's out.
Interesting point though.... the new axle is 79.00 but has a $85 core charge. They are worth more dead than alive!

The whole reason for a new axle is the exciter ring for the ABS sensor is cracked. I'll let you know how it goes. I HAD THE SAME THING HAPPEN TO MINE, THE RING BROKE IN HALF, AND WHEN I WENT TO TAKE OFF THE BRAKES WOULD LOCK UP, AND NOSE DIVE THE VAN, I HAD NO IDEA WHAT WAS CAUSING IT, TRYED TO DO THE JOB MYSELF IN A PARKING LOT, BUT COULD NOT GET THE KNUCKLE LOSE, HAD TO HAVE IT DONE.