Windstar Towing Upgrade

I currently own a 2001 Wndstar, 3.8L, without the towing package. I have a towing limit of 2000lbs. I am interested in trying to increase the capacity to 3500lbs. Is there a cost effective way to add a towing package aftermarket, and what would it cost? Could an automobile novice do the work himself?

I tow both a popup camper and a utility trailer with my 2000 Windstar LX (which did not come with the factory tow package). I did a lot of research before towing the camper - and made a number of modifications to the van. I've been very pleased with the Windstar when towing. It's a surprisingly capable and under-appreciated tow vehicle.

The weakest part of most FWD drivetrains is the transaxle. The most important part of the OEM tow package on the Windstar is an auxiliary transaxle cooler. Having seen both the OEM and aftermarket coolers, I believe the aftermarket does a better job. I got my B&M cooler from Summit Racing and installed it myself. It works fine. See links to pictures below.

Other towing thoughts:

- If you don't already have a hitch on your Windstar, I recommend you install a Class III hitch. There are more options available for the Class III's 2"x2" receiver; the price differential over a Class II hitch is minimal. I installed my hitch myself, and consider it a very reasonable DIY job.

- I did several wiring projects to add trailer lighting, brake controller and a separate circuit to handle the trailer refrigerator. It pays to spend some time thinking about what you need to do - and how to best accomplish it. Again, pictures below.

- Your stock 'donut' mini-spare is not rated for towing. I swapped over to a full-size spare tire/wheel - and highly recommend this simple upgrade.

- I was worried about rear-end sag, even though my popup camper's tongue weight is fairly low (yes, a weight distributing hitch is a better solution - but I simply didn't have that much weight to deal with). I added AirLift 1000 spring airbags to my Windstar. I've been pleased how much they improve the van's ride when *not* towing. Yet more pictures in links below.

- My popup camper didn't originally have brakes. I'm a big believer in trailer brakes on all but the lightest utility trailers. Once again, see the pictures.

- If you have a trailer with electric brakes, I highly recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller.

Tranny cooler, wiring and brake controller pics:

http://community.webshots.com/album/549196858rbUAlb

Adding AirLift spring airbags:

http://community.webshots.com/album/548741257AJALLi

Adding popup camper brakes:

http://community.webshots.com/album/548339571fnHjzQ

Thanks so much for the thorough information. It has given me hope that I can actually make this work.(The family really wants a camper, and I cannot afford a new vehicle to tow as well). It looks a little more complicated than I can tackle, so I will look into having this done at my local shop. One more question, as a ball-park figure, how much did it cost you to add the transmission cooler and the airbags? And is it best to go to a place like U-Haul for the hitch, or is there a better option? Thanks for giving me some hope on this one.

My transmission cooler was about $60, including various installation hardware. A competent shop should charge 1 to 2 hours for installation.

The AirLift 1000 spring airbags are about $100. A shop should be able to install them with 1 or 2 hours of labor.

The basic trailer lighting wiring kit I bought was about $40 (this handles trailer lights only - not brakes, etc.). A good shop should be able to install such a kit in just a few hours. The upgrades I added for electric brakes and a refrigerator line were more complicated. I probably spent $100 in supplies - and more of my own time than a good towing specialty would spend. But I'm pretty picky about wiring, and went overboard on some details.

Please note that 99+ Windstars use "low side switching" for lighting. This means you will need an electronic converter to hook up trailer lights (my $40 kit mentioned above included the converter).

I've always installed my own hitches (sigghhhh - and a number of hitches for friends). However, an observation: I've heard good things about some U-Haul work. And I've heard horror stories about some U-Haul installations. Each shop is independently run. Some are good; some aren't. I'd ask around and find out who has a good reputation in your area. Find some neighbors who have a camper parked in their yard. Ask them! RV people love to talk.

What kind of camper do you plan to tow? If you're new to this, please spend some time learning about weight capacities and safe towing techniques. And beware of trailer "dry weight" ratings. The "dry weight" is the lowball weight figure sales people use to convince people they can tow more than they really can. A trailer's "dry weight" is what it weighs when completely empty - and probably doesn't include options (like propane, awning). And might not include some things you wouldn't think of as options (refrigerator, furnace).

For an exhaustive (and admittedly exhausting) discussion of the ins and outs of minivan towing, please take a look at this:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17159884.cfm

Thanks for the additional info. We are looking at large pop-ups, and a couple of small Hybrids. It seems the large pop ups are going to fit the weight restrictions better. I have 4 children, so I am looking at 12 footers, with the optional slide outs, which puts dry weights in the neiborhood of 2500+ lbs. Your pricing info is helpful. If I can accomplish all of this for $5-600, I think I can swing it, if it goes closer to $1,000, it would be tough to justify on a nearly 7 yr old vehicle. I envy your abilities to do the work yourself.

My 1997 Startcraft PU is 2500 pounds GVWR, and has worked well with 3 kids and 2 adults in the van.

For heavier popups, you'll likely need a WDH (weight distributing hitch). The problem will be the heavy tongue weight on the back of an already-loaded minivan. This is what a WDH looks like:

http://www.mrtruck.net/wdh.htm

Note that a WDH requires the strength of a Class III hitch receiver.

For lots of popup towing info, take a look at the "Towing" forum on http://www.popupexplorer.com

I don't know if it is any help, but Monroe came out with a load type of replacement shock for the rear of the windstar.
It is their "sensa trak" shock, with a load bearing spring on it.
They sell them at www.rockauto.com and they have a link to a picture of it.
The price stated is for 2 of them.

As phil stated, a tranny cooler is a MUST, as is regular fluid changing.

Yes, heavy-duty shocks can help the rear end of the van.

But beware: Heavy trailer tongue weights have one other effect than adding weight to the rear wheels: They *reduce* weight on the front wheels.

With the Windstar's front wheels responsible for both propulsion and steering, less weight up front is a bad thing. A weight distributing hitch moves weight from the rear wheels to the front wheels. Some weight distributing hitches can also help control trailer sway.

My popup camper's tongue weight is only 240 pounds (fully loaded for our trips), so a weight distributing hitch is overkill (and my trailer exhibits no sway). But with typical tongue weights being 10%-15% of trailer weight, it isn't hard to imagine a 500 pound tongue weight for a heavier popup (let alone even a light hybrid camper).

Be careful that heavy duty shocks (or even spring airbags) aren't used to mask a problem that should be solved with a weight distributing hitch.

I currently have Monroe "Sensa Trac" shocks all the way around.
I do not have the ones with the springs that I mentioned, but the shock that is in that package is the same.....with the spring added.
I have been happy with the performance of the Sensa Trac shocks.
On the front, I have the Monroe "Quick Strut".
I tow a light utility trailer 1 time a year....so I have no need for anything more.

The factory towing packag for 1996 included a power steering cooler, and a engine oil cooler.
The engine oil cooler was a heat exchange type that mounted onto the oil filter spot, and the oil filter mounted onto that.
Coolant from the engine flowed through passages in the metal unit......and heat transfered through the metal from the oil to the coolant.

There were also some factory electrical things.....which Phil has advised you to be careful of...... as they are going to be different on your 2001 than on my '96.

wiswind -

Not to change the subject... Did you change the struts yourself? If so, any hints to give the rest of us? I'll need to tackle this job soon.

Back on topic...

The Windstar towing package has changed over the years. The oil cooling option on the '96 is kind of rare in the minivan world, and disappeared from the Windstar factory tow package shortly after '96. It's kind of a neat system: Since it bolts to the oil filter housing, it could probably be retrofitted to other years (I got an up-close look at a system in a wrecking yard while pulling parts out of a '96 Windstar for a '96 Mustang 3.8).

I did some research on the OEM tow package for the 2000 Windstar. It includes a full-size spare and auxiliary tranny cooler. The power steering cooler shows up on all Windstars in 2000 - but is incorporated into the auxiliary tranny cooler for the OEM tow package. After looking up the combined cooler (which is small and not terribly impressive), I decided the B&M SuperCooler line looked to be a better solution.

I have considered upgrading the power steering cooler (point of info: The Honda Odyssey towing package includes an upgraded power steering cooler). I've always noticed that Windstar power steering systems run hot, and seem to need frequent fluid changes (mine gets noisy and parking lot manuvers aren't as smooth when the fluid is old; all is well again with fresh fluid). Towing probably excaberates the situation. I suspect an uprated cooler would help. Summit Racing has a good selection of coolers that would work.

Some sources make reference to upgraded electrical and engine cooling systems for the Windstar tow package - but info I've found seems awfully vague, and I've never noticed things like different replacement radiators or alternators, based on existence of the factory tow package. The auxiliary tranny cooler is generally the most important part of any minivan towing package.

Phil, I had the strut replacement done for me.....as there was other work being done....including a front wheel bearing (passenger side)....which is much beyond what I wanted to tackle on my driveway.
They also replaced the lower ball joint on the driver's side.
The ball joint and wheel bearing.....they said had "very slight play", no noise, or performance issue....so I am certain that I would not have found them messing around in my driveway.
Certainly don't need a wheel bearing giving out on my mission trip with my youth group...and a trailer....many miles from home.........
ALL this stuff was factory original....which at 11 years.....183K miles is impressive in my book.
They found a cracked spring....and I made the jump to the "quick strut" which I highly recommend.


I also have considered adding a different power steering cooler, the '96 and years close to it have a metal pipe that loops around in front of the condensor coils....below the bumper on non-trailer package Windstars.
I would also get a regular cooler, like a small-ish (but bigger than the tow package cooler) tranny cooler.
I put synthetic fluid in my power steering, and think that flushing it, say.....every 1 - 2 years has been doing very well for me.

I am in the process of adding a temperature gauge to monitor the tranny temp. I bought a Autometer "Z" series mechanical gauge.
I bought a "universal pillar pod" that universally does not fit......seems pod mounts are not a popular item for minivans.....but it will do....as I cannot think of a better place to mount it without cutting the dash.

mmpmmcdonald..... This brings up another point.....it is important to verify that all is well with the vehicle before adding additional load to it.
This includes a cooling system service (just new coolant), a good check of the suspension, etc.
This will save you from sitting along the road.
And don't forget the brakes.....as they are taking on a much bigger task.

I will add another note....that I have mentioned a bunch of times.....
It might be worth verifying that your radiator fans are working properly.
They should be ON at low speed whenever the A/C is on.....and the vehicle is below a certain speed.
It is an easy check.....with the engine at idle......and A/C ON......the radiator fans should be running.
If they are not......it is possible that the radiator fan low speed dropping resistor is bad......
I have pictures of the location of it in my pictures.
This is critical to not only the engine cooling, but to the TRANSMISSION cooling......like when you are sitting in stop and go traffic...with the extra load....the fans will help the factory transmission cooler in the radiator to do its job....and it will make a major cooling impact with the auxillary cooler.

On my '99, the towing package included a unique rear harness that included a polarity invertor for regular high-side switching for trailer lights and brakes. Also packaged loosely was a harness "pigtail" to facilitate trailer hook-up.