Tie rod lube?

Is it possible to lube/grease the tie rod ends on a 95? The bottom is flat, smooth steel - like a mashed rivet head, the top has the shaft and boot; no grease fitting anywhere that I can see.

I am having the problem described here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=583418&highlight=wobble

And http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=351668&highlight=wobble

Have changed out tires, to isolate; wobble does not go away. Heat buildup at rotors is so extreme, after driving 2 miles, touching the lug studs will burn your finger.

No amount of grease is going to stop a worn tie rod from causing a wobbling. There's way too much force going on for grease to stop it. But to answer your question, I've seen some people using a medical syringe to inject grease into the boot. The rubber boot isn't self healing, so you will get some ooze out of the puncture.

I have used a grease needle on my grease gun to poke into the boot and inject grease to the tie rod end joint.
There is NO grease fitting unless the factory original has been replaced with an aftermarket brand, that has a grease fitting.
One only should put a small amount of grease in......once you see any grease come out.....or the seal swell at all.....you should stop.
This method is certainly not as good as having a grease fitting, but is the only alternative when you don't have a grease fitting.
You cannot add a grease fitting to the factory original part.

That said...... if the joint is worn, it MUST be replaced.
Grease will prevent wear....but not undo it.

I am wondering if you have a dragging brake....although it is normal for the front disk brake pads to lightly ride the surface of the rotor.

I would advise that you get the vehicle in to a good shop for a inspection......
If it were my vehicle, I would schedule a front end alignment.....complete with a good inspection of the front end parts.
From my understanding, a good front end alignment includes a good shakedown of the front end.....and would most likely be a more complete check out than a quick inspection.

I do a lot of things.....myself...but some things....and this is a good example.....I trust to a qualified mechanic with the correct tools and know how.
I like to have a "safety check" done once a year....and an alignment at that time also.....or certainly every other year....if everything seems perfect to me.

Heat buildup at rotors is so extreme, after driving 2 miles, touching the lug studs will burn your finger.

Ah, based on that statement, I clearly think you have a brake issue, namely a sticking brake. I have seen the brake line to a caliper fail internally such that the brake fluid could not flow back out of the caliper after brake application - this was a GM vehicle and is apparently a common issue with GM. On the vehicle in question I figured it out because I could not bleed the caliper after installing it. Unfortunately, if you have driven very long in this state, I would advise changing the calipers, pads and rotors. This of course assumes you confirm that the brake is sticking, but if you are generating that kind of heat I would guess brakes first.

Now depending on the amount of vibration, I suppose the wheel bearing could be causing the problem too. It would likely be making a lot of noise however if it is trashed enough to be generating the heat.

Good luck

Thanks, guys. The whole problems started with the passenger side caliper completely seizing up - we had a local tire shop un-seize it, took it home using the parking brake, and then proceeded to replace the calipers. We replaced the calipers 1 at a time, but less than 2 weeks apart - the wobble began IMMEDIATLEY after replacing the second caliper. Between the two, we were noticing what felt like brake drag, pulling to one the driver's side slightly, and the rim heating up. So I replaced the 2nd caliper - and then the wobble started, with severe pulling to the same side, and rim heating about the same as when the caliper was seized.

I agree, Wis, I would love to take it in - but we don't have the $$ for that option :(

I just had my factory original calipers replaced.
I had a similar symptom...but not enough to make the car pull to one side.
The side that would heat up seemed to shift from side to side.
In my case.....it only happened now and then.

I hear you on the money issue..... That's why I am driving an old car.....and plan to for a few more years.
My anal maintenance program......for once....is paying off.
My first vehicles had the bodies rust away badly long by this time.....in spite of my best efforts to prevent that.....driving on well salted streets did not go well with the 80's cars......seems this one has done much better.

A $50-$80 alignment gets you a good checking out of the front end.
Which is cheaper than the tires that will tell you that you need one.

A $90 & up "safety check" gets the rest of the vehicle checked over......
Now, if you live in a state that has state inspections (like Pennsylvania) you get most of that that once a year.

Wiswind - did your heating problem occur before or after the calipers were replaced? And if before, did it go away? Ie, might I have somehow done something wrong when replacing my own calipers? It seems so relatively simple that I don't see how I could have... My next thoughts beyond the rotors are the hose (which feels solid, not spongy, and has NO signs of crack or leakage), or the master cylinder.

Can the brake codes be read w/o a OBD-II scanner? I can't exactly drive it to a shop in its current condition!

**EDIT**

As of this evening, both rotors have been replaced as well. The shaking steering wheel is STILL going on... It is slightly reduced though, and there is less heating up of the rims/lug studs/hubs.

How exactly, should I check the tie rod ends? (Other than how I mentioned above- I don't see any info anywhere on how much "wiggle" is OK?)

My sticking front calipers was an intermittent problem.
I had my mechanic replace them.....they found 1 had a torn piston boot, and I had them replace both sides.
The problem has not come back since the repair.
I had them do the brake calipers, pads, and rotors because they had found the passenger side wheel bearing had some play in it......and that is a much more involved job than what I want to take on.....as one has to take so much apart.....then you need a special press to work with the bearing.

As far as tie rod end play......I do not know how much is OK......or the specifics on how to test them.

I do know that I had no clue as to the wheel bearing or the lower ball joint.....and my mechanic told me that the play was very slight......and he noticed a "very slight play in the steering"......which I had not noticed.
So....in short....it would have to be a really bad part for me to know.

This gets into something that folks who have worked on a LOT of vehicles have learned through experience.

Thanks, Wiswind.

I have seen the brake line to a caliper fail internally such that the brake fluid could not flow back out of the caliper after brake application ... I figured it out because I could not bleed the caliper after installing it...

Now depending on the amount of vibration, I suppose the wheel bearing could be causing the problem too. It would likely be making a lot of noise however if it is trashed enough to be generating the heat.

Good luck

Busboy4, I have now replaced the calipers, AND rotors - and the heat remains, as does the vibration (which is severe enough that it jerks the steering wheel back and forth about 1/2" each way, violently above 35MPH.) As for the brake line, I have wondered about that - I took ONE off (not the other, heh) and was able to blow air through it towards the caliper; the shape of the metal box at the other end makes blowing the other direction impossible. Both of the flexible lines are also very solid - not spongy.

Could it be a problem with the Master Cylinder? Perhaps one of the two circuits is broken, causing restricted fluid?

I AM able to bleed the lines at the calipers.

There is no noise from the bearings, nor is there any "movement" from them when shaking the tire either left/right, or up/down.