Torque Coverter Clutch Stuck Code

Well, Got O/D Off flashing on Thursday. Searched and found this site Friday. Took vehicle to have Code read on Saturday, was TCC Stuck Off. Tried to take it to get a fluid and filter change til I could investigate further. 30 miles down the road tranny started leaking a lot of fluid. Had to get towed back to shop that read the code to start. Funny thing was that the transmission really never felt like it was having any problems til enough fluid ran out of it that it wouldn't move. I think I am one of the lucky Windstar owners because ithas 141,000 miles on it with this being the first tranny failure.
Can the Torque Converyer Clutch problem be fixed without tearing into the transmission?
What would you all suggest to do with this? I have read so many threads that say that this willl be a problem again even with a rebuilt tranny. The van is only a 1999, but does have high miles. Lots of highway miles though. Has the 171/174 code engine problem(sounds like this is something I could fix?), needs new windshield, rear brakes and has some rust, and other minor problems, but has been really reliable til the last 3 months. (had to replace front bearings) It sounds like a rebuilt tranny with a warrenty would be a way to go, but do you all think that this tranny problem is just the beginning of the end?

That is a tough choice.......
One thing to ask is if you plan to keep your vehicle for a while after the repair.
If the answer is yes, then it is worth investing money for the repair.
If the transmission fluid has not been changed faithfully at least every 30K miles, then the best choice would be a remanufactured unit with a 2-3 year waranty.
Even if it has been changed, you are taking a chance on having it repaired, if it is an expensive repair....as the rest of the unit has the 140K miles and 8 years of use on it.
I have been there with the same choice.....mine at about 100K miles..in 2001...and got a FORD remanufactured unit......which was expensive......and that hurt.
However, in my case, I think that I made the correct choice.
If you get a remanufactured unit, you don't want to skimp there either....as some places just fix what is broken.....and others really go at it....and about all you get of an old unit is the case.
Of course all places will say that they are giving you a top knotch unit......so you have to do some research.

I now have 183K miles on my '96, and put $2500 in repairs into it.....
A new A/C evaporator coil (was the very first A/C failure for this vehicle).
New "quick struts" (includes new front springs, strut, bearing plate, etc).
New Front brakes, including calipers (mine were starting to stick) and rotors.
A new front wheel bearing and a lower ball joint......both had VERY slight play and all that stuff was original.
However, my mechanic had taken it for a drive and feels that this vehicle is good for 300K miles easily....as it is in very good condition engine running perfect, transmission shifting right on......
So......looking at, say 3 years of reliable transportation (well less than the 300K mentioned), and figure the vehicle cost per year......compare to replacing the vehicle......... I decided to hold onto what I have.

As with any vehicle, the questions I mention are ones to ask when it is of some age....and a MAJOR repair comes up....
Look over the vehicle......and ask yourself how confident you are in it for, say another 3 years, with the repair being made.

A good mechanic should be able to advise on the repair for the specific problem you have......and then you can decide from there.
If it is a relatively inexpensive repair......then I would go for it.
If they talk a major rebuild....then it is time to consider a reman. unit.

Your really knowledgable and it is great to see that you are so helpful as well. I am going to have a remanufactured tranny put in that is warrenteed for 3 years 75000 miles from Ford so that I can take it to any Ford dealership if I have problems. Price quoted to me was $2500. Not bad, not good, but better right now then a $300/month car payment again.
Question: How hard is it to fix the 171/174 TSB problem. It seems like many have done it on there own for under $200. Did you have to do this on yours?

The 171/174 fix that is listed in the sticky post at the top of the room is for 1999 and newer ONLY.
My '96 has a totally different upper intake manifold, and does not have the "isolator bolt" issue.

I would follow the instructions and pictures on the site that is listed...which is posted by a member who did the repair.

I did the Isolator bolt on my 99 and I used the stp-by-step instructions that Wiswind mentioned. They are great. Read them first they are accurate and should give you a feel for what's involved. I didn't think it was difficult but it was time consuming.

I too have a transmission death looming so it seems. In a last desperation I'm going to change the fluid and filter one last college try.

If that doesn't work I will need to take it in. I was quoted about $500 to remove the transmission and $600 to dissamble and reassemble. I think the rebuild kit was about $400. Any other parts of course are extra and I don't expect him to have a crystal ball to know ahead of time.

I'm getting P0471 once in a while, hard shifting 1st to 2nd, Slippage? but no burnt smell.

Has anyone ever read the entire TSB:

"TSB #03123 -- TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH NOT ENGAGING WHEN COMMANDED AND/OR DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES P0741 OR P1744 STORED IN MEMORY. MODELS FROM 1996 TO 2003. *TT (NHTSA ID #10002684, JUNE 23 2003) "