Could this be the problem?

Okay...here's the situation. I have a 96 Windstar that has been starting and idling perfectly in park but stalling immediately when put into reverse or drive (works fines in 1st and 2nd gear on the gear shift).

This morning my husband jacked it up and took the wheel off to replace a solenoid and found that the coil spring was broken and pressing against the CV joint (??) and some brake parts (I think). He started it and it now shifts into every gear perfectly!

BUT...my question is....could it be simply that there is no pressure on the brakes right now and the problem may come back once he gets it back together or could the spring pressing hard on the CV joint have been causing the problem?

Okay...here's the situation. I have a 96 Windstar that has been starting and idling perfectly in park but stalling immediately when put into reverse or drive (works fines in 1st and 2nd gear on the gear shift).

This morning my husband jacked it up and took the wheel off to replace a solenoid and found that the coil spring was broken and pressing against the CV joint (??) and some brake parts (I think). He started it and it now shifts into every gear perfectly!

BUT...my question is....could it be simply that there is no pressure on the brakes right now and the problem may come back once he gets it back together or could the spring pressing hard on the CV joint have been causing the problem?

Hello

Why is the solenoid being replaced? The broken spring wouldn't stall the engine. It would cause drag while driving.

Regards

Dan

With the engine stalling in the manner it was it was suggested that the torque converter clutch solenoid was faulty. This is why it is being replaced.

Before my husband jacked up the front end it would stall immediately when placed into reverse or drive. Now that he has the wheels and brakes off (and still jacked up) he can now start it and shift into any gear without problem (he hasn't replaced the solenoid yet).

Is there something here that he has done that may have corrected the stalling issue?

I would say that if the spring was pressing hard enough against the CV joint....it would certainly be an issue.....I don't know that it would stall the vehicle though.

You might look up when the vehicle was ORIGINALLY purchased.
FORD issued a extended warranty on the springs.....10 years from date of original (new) sale....with unlimited mileage.
Most likely, that has expired....unless it was left over well into 1997 before it was sold.

I just had Monroe "Quick Struts" installed.....and recommend that route.
They are pricey....at about $200 each from Advance Auto Parts.
This is the complete strut assembly.....Spring, strut, upper and lower spring isolators, upper bearing plate....etc
You end up with a more reliable repair.....with less labor...as you remove the (old spring, strut, bearing plate)......Unit....and just put the whole new unit in.
You most likely will need the stabilizer links (sometimes called sway bar links) also.....as the original ones are plastic...and will melt if they have to apply heat to remove the bolts....they are not expensive.
The links.....and a bunch of other stuff has to be disconnected to remove the strut assembly.
You will need to replace BOTH sides....as a pair.

ALSO.....a careful inspection of the CV boot (the rubber seal that covers the CV joint) to look for any tear or hole in the rubber....as that will lead to certain failure of the CV joint.......and inspect the brakes.....and anything else that the spring may have been against for possible damage.

Thanks for the replies. The spring issue will be taken care of this weekend.

Is there anything that my husband did with jacking it up, removing the wheel and brakes makes any sense why it would now shift into all gears perfectly? None of that seems to me like it would have affected the stalling issue at all but it has for some reason. Any thoughts?

Best thing that I can think of.....is...once the spring issue is corrected...and you have verified that nothing was damaged by it.....drive the vehicle and see how it behaves.
If it is not failing.....then don't worry about it for now.
If it starts acting up again.....then you will have a symptom to diagnose.

It is super hard for you.....or a mechanic to troubleshoot if it is not acting up.

Of course.....it is important to be really on top of keeping the transmission fluid changed.
When the fluid wears out, it will start to build up varnish deposits.....and sticking solenoid(s) are often caused by varnish deposits.....as well as a number of other problems.

With no load on the drive train even a marginal transaxle may work perfectly. Put it back on the ground, under load, and see how it behaves. Then start your diagnosis procedure from that point.
Brent