Milage On A Engine

all right kids, i was wundering how many miles a saturn engine will go before its toast. because my friends car has 124,000 and its starting to show little signs of getting toasted, with the rings getting worn. i have seen saturns with 135,000 and still running i was hopeing you guys could tell us how many miles you have seen and what finaly toasted it

My saturn made it to 265,000 miles before the plastic liner on the timing chain guide broke off and required the engine to get pulled. I've seen alot of saturns with 125,000 miles on them that were still going strong.

Mines going good but i only have 70k miles on a 1999 saturn sl2. just thought i would say something

178,000 miles on a 95 SL1. Started to burn oil, or leak oil once the car is moving. I think it is burning oil though because there is no oil on the ground underneath it.

I have around 146K on my SL1 (1996) and its still going. I have to admit that at times the pickup is a little slow for some odd reason. Also I have noticed when I change oil - most of it is gone - I only get about 2 quats out. Anyone having a similar problem?

My 96 saturn has 183k on it and is still running strong. My moms 92 saturn went to 225k before the timing belt snapped destroying the engine.

Hey guys i am a newbie to this site and would like to add that my 95 Saturn SL has 79,500 miles on it and running strong with the exception of the buring alot of oil thing that happens thanks guy

Im also burning a lot of oil but it is because I have a new intake and exhaust. Sooner or later I will get a fuel pressuer regulator to maybe help the problem along with a completely new ignition system.

I've got a '95 SL2 with 130,000 and still runs great. In the winter I seem to use a little oil though. Seems to use about a little over a half quart every 3,000. During the summer it will use less.

165,000 miles right here baby:bigthumb: And still running like it is brand new:bigthumb:

thats cool, im in the adventure of getting another saturn, SL2 (92-95) or a 95-96 SC2, i really like saturns i really did not want to sell mine.

My 2000 SL2 I bought new December of 1999 has 162,000 miles as of July 15, 2003. Seems that if I'm awake, I'm driving this car. Runs great! Only complaint is that I have to add a quart of oil every thousand miles. Oh, well, if that's all that's wrong with this high-mileage car, I'll take it! Put a hotshot cold air intake with cone filter and aftermarket muffler from www.spswebpage.com. More power? Or maybe it seems that way because the car sounds more aggressive than bone stock. Gas mileage quoted as 35 MPG, but when I installed a Tornado fuel saver in the cold air intake, I now get 40 to 43 MPG on the highway! I'll keep this Saturn at least until it's paid off, then I'll trade it in towards a used low-mileage Saturn.

178,000 miles on a 95 SL1. Started to burn oil, or leak oil once the car is moving. I think it is burning oil though because there is no oil on the ground underneath it.

i have the exact same car as you and same year. i got 135,000 miles and it's not unusual to have to put in a quart of oil every 10 days or so. i'm also having some idling issues, but that might just be spark plugs and wires. i'll have to get it checked out soon. otherwise it gets me to work and back just fine.

Currently my 96 SL1 is at around 215k miles with some oil consumption and couple of minor trans quirks, with twice having to replace the belt tensioner.

I Just replaced my daughters totaled 99 SL1
with another SL1. A 2000 model with 130k on it.
The guy who owned it took such good care of
it the only way to tell it has been driven since it was
new is too look at the odometer. All rural highway miles
and diligent maintainence. Normally I would never
pay 3,600 for a car with 130k on it but this car was so
perfect mechanically and cosmetically it blew me away.
Not one single blemish in the paint or interior..not one!
We whipped out the bucks as soon as my mechanic
gave me the green light. Retail was 6,300. Saturn let
us have it wholesale because of the mileage.
One of the best car deals I have ever made.

Carfax reported a perfect record and dealership oil changes
every 2 to 3 k. Mechanic that tested the compression
for me said the engine was "as tight as it was the day it
was built. The engine did get a new valve cover gasket though
because I spotted the marks on the bolt heads and there was
a small amount of very old caked oil on the cyl head in one
spot.

Look folks.....4 bangers degrade oil faster because
they turn more rpms. Also, with more efficient
ignitions systems it is normal for the crankcase
gases from the oil to get burned without fouling the
plugs. Oil use in 4 cyl engines is normal especially
if you live in a hot humid region like I do in Houston

You do 2 things to make your engine last.

Check the oil every 500 miles and keep it topped off.
Change the oil when it turns brown and is no longer clear
or if you are in a humid region every 3 months (condensation)
whichever comes first.

This 2000 SL1 is cool because it keeps track of RPMS
and turns on the Change Oil Soon light for you. They did
this because most 4 bangers "USE OIL IN HUMID HOT REGIONS"
right from the factory. You let it get even 1/2 quart low
and the damage begins. Keep it topped off.

Never mind what oil you use. Use a decent brand and
CHANGE IT and CHECK IT OFTEN.

My 87 Mazda 323 now has 385 k on it and still runs like
it did the day I bought it new. I could change the oil in it
in less than 10 minutes blindfolded if I had to. In July and August
here in Houston sitting in traffic is murder on an engine so I change
the oil every other weekend during that time. Dusty conditions
is another thing to consider. Also, K&N filters are great for
keeping very small particles of dust out of the air intake and
engine. Fram is OK but you need to change them often but
K&N does filter out finer particles. Been using them in my 323
since I bought the car. They are actually cheaper and better
than Fram conventional filters.

Another tip....This is not a sports car....the more you "get down on it"
the sooner it will wear out. If you want your engine to last
take it is easy. If you want to get down on it get a V6 or
at least a DOHC engine.

I expect another 130k for my 3600 bucks and intend to get it.

Now if I could just get my daughter to stay away from curbs!!!

I have a bone stock 98 SL2 w/ a buck 30 on it and i run a 15.95@91 :)

had a 97 sl who's valve train went at ~100,000...i heard it was a pretty frequent thing for saturn engines to go round 100k but from this forum apparently not

Have 172,000 now, and still driving it but it's starting to give me some trouble. I have been through 3 heater cores. I'm not sure what's up with that as we do change the coolant regularly. It doesn't have the pep it used to have especially with the air on, but I'm glad it still runs. I think if I was patient enough with it, I could get a few more years out of it, but at this time I'm thinking I need more reliable transportation.

My '97 SL2 has 124 thousand and is running stonger than new. Must be it is finally broken in.

UPDATE: My car now has a blown head gasket.

Im thinking about pulling the engine and making a go-kart :evillol:

UPDATE: My car now has a blown head gasket.

Im thinking about pulling the engine and making a go-kart :evillol:

that would be so freaking tight

Hey guys i'm really new to this and so heres my problem i bought a $150 built it your self cold air in take system for my 1999 sl2 saturn and i was taking out the old one and i was shocked by numerous problems one is that plastic box that is just above and in the middle of the fan and seems to help out the original intake. Then secondly where the co2 sensor is and do relly need it if i have a cone filter. along with that is when mounting the trottle body hole does not match up with the hole to the kit i bought, so what do i need. and then lastly how do i mount it. thanks if anyone can help i would love the advice

Why are you bringing up dead threads from 3 years ago isntead of starting a new one?

yeah, dont get why you brought this up in this topic.

now i dont follow you. you bought a warm air intake so it sounds, but whats with the "trottle body hole does not match up with the hole to the kit i bought"? do you mean the rubber adapter doesnt fit over the throttle body bore?

now that plastic box above the radiator is the resonator chamber. its does nothing but quiet the intake down. now by co2, i think you mean the iat (intake air temp sensor) and yes you want it to be mounted in the intake so it picks up on incoming air so the pcm can adjust for that. and how it mounts depends on what you bought. some mount to the upper trans to engine stud, others just bolt to the holes that the stock intake was on.