What else to do while doing the lower intake manifold gaskets?

I am doing the lower intake manifold gaskets on my '98 Windstar 3.8L with 83k miles. What else to do while down there? I have just taken the cowl off yesterday and today I will drain the coolant and start ripping things out.

I need also do the brake master cylinder. What else?

I am thinking of the spark plugs. Will you be able to easily access the rear plugs facing the fire wall with the lower intake manifold off? If so I might as well just change the plugs.

Yes, the plugs will be much easier to get to, you should check the wires and coil pack.

Change the thermostat while you've got the lower manifold off.

Check the PCV valve, vacuum hoses, EGR valve and solenoid, IMRCs and solenoid, coolant hoses.

It's also an opportune time to clean out your fuel injectors and maybe replace the O-rings on them, and if you need to replace the coolant and engine temperature sensors.

That's all I can think of.

Be SUPER carefull with the IMRC actuators.....I left mine installed and connected...and was able to move them very slightly to get at the end bolt by each one.

Also, use a BEAM type of torque wrench....and remember that it is INCH POUNDS.

Use a drop of sensor safe RTV sealant at each end of the "end seal" as I show in my pictures.....normally black in color.
The lower manifold gaskets are DRY fitted.....nothing added.
Use ONLY wood or nylon / plastic tooling to remove any residue from the gasket mating surfaces.....metal....INCLUDING razer blades will leave scratches in the alluminium...which can wick coolant.....causing a leak.
Sovents can be used to soften any stubborn junk......then clean the surfaces to remove oil.

When you set the lower intake down....place it on towels to protect the gasket seating surfaces from scratching.

This is a good time to thoroughly clean the EGR ports, and the IMR "butterflies".
The EGR valve seems to be reliable on these....even though this is an easy time to change it.

I replaced the "bypass" or "crossover" pipe that goes in on the driver side....and has the "U" shaped hose on the driver side that connects to the pipe that comes off the top of the water pump.
Mine was still fine.....but it was easiest to change it at this time....and it is good to get that "U" hose changed even if the metal pipe is still fine.

My heater hose that connects to the top of the passenger side of the lower intake manifold had a "quick" connect connector.....this requires a special tool to remove....and mine still fell apart due to age / heat.
You can buy a kit that has new clips.....mine was 3/4" size.....make CERTAIN that you get the "O" gaskets back in place or you will have serious leakage.

This is a good time to replace the heater hoses......the in and out, as I recall are different sizes.....and this will be the easiest time to replace them.
Also the upper radiator hose.
It is not easier to do the lower radiator hose now.....but if you have the coolant drained...........

Of course....you MUST change the engine oil and filter before starting the engine....as much coolant will still get into the crankcase.....you will hear it right when you lift up on the lower intake manifold and break the seal.

The advice on the plug wires is very good.....as, if they are original.....it is time.
Same for the spark plugs......stay away from the fancy Bosch that they push at the auto part stores......they are not correct for our application.
Motorcraft or Autolite brand of double platinumn are the correct spark plug.

My lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced last March....and they are still doing fine.
I just had my vehicle in for a super thorough going over......and they felt that the engine / transmission are performing "perfectly".
They were very impressed with the overall condition and thought the vehicle is good to go for several more RELIABLE years.
I plan to keep my '96 3.8L with 183K miles at least a few more years......as long as it is reliable.....

If you are doing the brake master cylinder....you might consider a new vaccum hose to the booster.....and CERTAINLY get a new pressure switch for the bottom of the master cylinder.

Thanks Wiswind! You are being very helpful on this forum! Thanks for the tips! So far I have taken the cowl off, the intake boot, and labelled most of the electric wire connectors and the vacuum hoses just in case I forgot down the road. :p Tomorrow night I will take the upper and lower manifold out and then will work on the spark plugs/wires and clean the IMRC butterfly and EGR valve and ICV. I will shoot some photos and post them here. :wink:

I might have questions to ask here. Check back this thread often! :popcorn:

Let me re-inforce Wiswind's caution concerning the quick-disconnect hose fitting. My first incounter with such a device was on my '99 ... it nearly beat me! The thing came apart on me, after doing the isolator bolts, while I was accelerating on an access ramp ... trying to get ahead of a bunch of 16 wheelers. By the time I could get off the expressway, the temp needle was pegged.

Thank heavens synthetic oil was in the engine or it would have surely been lost.

Aftermarket repair kits are now available ... if you have any doubts about the condition of yours.

Let me re-inforce Wiswind's caution concerning the quick-disconnect hose fitting. My first incounter with such a device was on my '99 ... it nearly beat me! The thing came apart on me, after doing the isolator bolts, while I was accelerating on an access ramp ... trying to get ahead of a bunch of 16 wheelers. By the time I could get off the expressway, the temp needle was pegged.

Thank heavens synthetic oil was in the engine or it would have surely been lost.

Aftermarket repair kits are now available ... if you have any doubts about the condition of yours.

What's the name for the "aftermarket repair kits" for the quick-disconnect hose fitting? Where can I get them?

I'll add a bit to my story. Luckily I had some anti-freeze and distilled water aboard when I had my problem. Much of the fitting was missing when I finally got off the expressway.

I wedged the hose back in place with scrap pieces of wood. Refilled the system with coolant, but left off the pressure cap so the system wouldn't build up enough force to blow apart my make-shift connection. Of course, it still leaked like crazy.

By buying more water and anti-freeze along the way, I was able to make it to an O'Riely's autoparts. My first visit. They had kits for Fords and different ones for Chrysler products ... but I don't remember the exact kit names.

I have since noticed them in the "help" sections of other stores.

To be totally honest......on my '96, I cut the body of the quick connector off and pushed the hose over the metal fitting....and put a hose clamp on it....like the rest of the hoses on the vehicle are secured.
Taking note of the fact that the hose slid up far enough on the metal pipe that comes out of the lower manifold......I feel more comfortable with the hose clamp then I do with putting a new quick connect on.
It has been in place for over a year, with a lot of driving, and is still just fine.

I have pictures posted of my lower intake manifold job.
As noted......use them to supplement your repair manual instructions.

The upper intake manifold gaskets are re-usable.....they sit in grooves in the upper manifold.

Also, I left the accellerator cables connected to the throttle body....and just set the throttle body aside.

As for the fuel rail.....I did release the fuel system pressure using the valve that is located at the front, center of the fuel rail.
Then I VERY THOROUGHLY cleaned around each fuel injector with a spray cleaner......brake cleaner is ideal.....get a few cans....and it will wash that grit away from around each injector......
That is a dirt trap around each injector......and if you don't clean that junk away....it is just sitting there ready to drop down into the intake...where you cannot clean it out....

Then, with the fuel system pressure released.....and the dirt cleaned from around each injector.......I would remove the screws that hold the fuel rail to the lower intake...and the vaccum line to the fuel pressure regulator....and carefully lift the fuel rail up.....bringing all the fuel injectors up with it......and then find a way to hang it up and over to the passenger side.....just out of the way.......and you won't have to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.
You likely will find it easier to unplug the wire harness for the fuel injectors....leaving the fuel injectors plugged in.

Before putting the fuel rail / injectors back in place.....you might spray some cleaner up inside the plastic / nylon end cap over the spray end of each injector....to flush it out..... That is the only place you need to concern yourself with cleaning as far as the fuel injectors go....short of sending them out for a special cleaning....which should not be necessary.

Then inspect the "O" ring gaskets.....and apply a bit of clean motor oil to them to help them slide back into the head easily.

Once you have the fuel rail all back into place.......I would put the key in the ignition...and turn it to the ON position.....but do NOT crank the engine.
You want to just turn the key ON to cause the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system.
Then turn the key to the OFF position and remove the key.....and carefully look over the fuel rail, etc for any signs of fuel leakage.....easy to spot before the upper intake manifold is in place.