HVAC problem

My 98 Windstars HVAC system is just blowing air through the windshield vents. Nothing from the dash or floor vents. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

JJ

I am having a similar problem with an 2003 Windstar. I will breifly describe the circumstances involved.

The van sustained front end body and frame damage recently in an accident. The AC system wasn't seriously damaged by the accident and was functioning prior to starting repair work on the accident damage. The AC system was discharged so that the condenser could be removed during repair procedures. The condenser has been reinstalled but now when the AC is turned on it appears that the compressor isn't engaging and air only blows through the defrostrer vents. Because of this I haven't been able to recharge the system with refrigerant.

Obviously this information is no help to the person who started this thread :frown: but I hope that since it is a related problem that it may stimulate some helpful replies.

I have the same problem with my '98 3.8L. I've replaced the switch, and the reservior holds a vacuum, and there doesn't seem to be a leak in the vacuum hose through the firewall.

I think it's the blend door actuator.

Also, there is no cold air in the rear.

Please post back if you fix yours.

Sound like a vac line came loose.. You will need to pull the cowel were the wipers are off to locate better.

I am having a similar problem with an 2003 Windstar. I will breifly describe the circumstances involved.

The van sustained front end body and frame damage recently in an accident. The AC system wasn't seriously damaged by the accident and was functioning prior to starting repair work on the accident damage. The AC system was discharged so that the condenser could be removed during repair procedures. The condenser has been reinstalled but now when the AC is turned on it appears that the compressor isn't engaging and air only blows through the defrostrer vents. Because of this I haven't been able to recharge the system with refrigerant.

Obviously this information is no help to the person who started this thread :frown: but I hope that since it is a related problem that it may stimulate some helpful replies.

Hello

First off....defrost is default mode when there isn't any vacuum or other control to the heating/cooling system. Also, the compressor will not engage untill there is a certain about of psi in the AC system.

Regards

Dan

I have the same problem with my '98 3.8L. I've replaced the switch, and the reservior holds a vacuum, and there doesn't seem to be a leak in the vacuum hose through the firewall.

I think it's the blend door actuator.

Also, there is no cold air in the rear.

Please post back if you fix yours.

Hi
Not sure if they changed it much for '98, but in '96 all front air directional control was vacuum, and the rear unit's hot/cold was vacuum (default hot). Front temp control is electric. Bottom line, if your '98 has defrost only up front, and hot air only in the back I think you are still dealing with a vacuum problem. I have a hand vacuum pump that came with several attachments (nozzles if you will) and was able to test my system to isolate my leak to the line running from the intake to the vacuum reservoir. The pump doubles as a guage if simply "plugged in" to a vacuum line. Point being, have you started at the intake and worked your way back? Sounds like you have done a lot, but if you have only defrost, vacuum is not going beyond your selector. There should be a vacuum block attachment above the accelerator pedal. Should have several colored vacuum lines into and out. You should be able to open the block and have access to each line to check for leaks. With the engine running I would check at this point for good vacuum on the line through the firewall - mine was black (I was able to use a pointed nozzle on my vacuum pump hose pushed into the supply line to measure vacuum). I had zero at this point. If your vacuum is good there I would close the vacuum block and check for good vacuum on the same color line at the selector (assumption here as in '96 the "supply" line remains black in color all the way to the selector).

I do not think any one vacuum motor leaking will bring the whole system down so I really think it likely your problem lies somewhere along the supply line or at the selector as many have found the problem there on the later models. In my case the leak was between the intake manifold and the vacuum reservoir as the rigid vacuum line had rubbed a hole in itself against the A/C refrigerant lines.

Sorry for carrying on. Good luck tracking it down.

Hello

First off....defrost is default mode when there isn't any vacuum or other control to the heating/cooling system. Also, the compressor will not engage untill there is a certain about of psi in the AC system.

Regards

Dan

I found that there was a vacuum line disconnected. Once reconnected the air was correctly routed to the dash vents.

About recharging the system with refrigerant. I thought that what you are suggesting about there needing to be some pressure in the system before the compressor engages may be the problem. The thing is when I connect the hose from the can of refrigerant to the low side port and squeeze the trigger nothing happens. Initially I was thinking that the compressor needed to be engaged to help suck the refrigerant into the system. Now I'm starting to think that I may have ended up with a faulty can hose. I am going to pick up another hose and make another attempt. Thanks for the input.

>>>>>>>>>About recharging the system with refrigerant. I thought that what you are suggesting about there needing to be some pressure in the system before the compressor engages may be the problem. The thing is when I connect the hose from the can of refrigerant to the low side port and squeeze the trigger nothing happens. Initially I was thinking that the compressor needed to be engaged to help suck the refrigerant into the system. Now I'm starting to think that I may have ended up with a faulty can hose. I am going to pick up another hose and make another attempt. Thanks for the input.<<<<<

After the repair, was your A/C system Vacuumed down? After being opened for the condenser repair, the receiver/dryer should have been changed too, and the n the system put under vacuum for an extended period (I have heard anything from 20 min. to an hour) to remove any residual air.

Another issue with 134a, so I have read is sensitivity to over/under filling. Whenever I add 134a to either of my cars, I weigh the can on a digital kitchen scale, add a bit, weigh again etc. For a full refill I would think you are looking at 2 lbs. or more, so maybe you only need to weigh to fine tune the charge at the end. Bottom line, make sure you know exactly how much gas you have added to ensure the best result.

Best of luck

After the repair, was your A/C system Vacuumed down? After being opened for the condenser repair, the receiver/dryer should have been changed too, and the n the system put under vacuum for an extended period (I have heard anything from 20 min. to an hour) to remove any residual air.

Another issue with 134a, so I have read is sensitivity to over/under filling. Whenever I add 134a to either of my cars, I weigh the can on a digital kitchen scale, add a bit, weigh again etc. For a full refill I would think you are looking at 2 lbs. or more, so maybe you only need to weigh to fine tune the charge at the end. Bottom line, make sure you know exactly how much gas you have added to ensure the best result.

Best of luck

It turned out that the refrigerant dispencer hose that came with the the first recharge kit that I bought was faulty. I exchanged the kit and was able to charge the system.

I was aware that it is recommended to replace the dryer, and have the system evacuated prior to recharge. However I chose not to do so because this was a budget job. I was carefull and capped all open lines and connections immediately after they were disconnected to keep debris and moisture out.

According to Ford specs an 2003 Windstar w/aux rear AC has a 56 oz refrigerant capacity. I've put in about 4 1/2 12 oz cans. The system is working about the same as it did prior starting the repairs. The compressor is noisy, and the AC doesn't blow very cool when the egine is at idle but improves when the RPM's are up.

Thanks for the advice.