97 SL2 Air Conditioner (eletrical problems)
ant_129
04-22-2007, 02:08 PM
Hi guys,
My AC went out this past december, (yeah its Texas I had to use it) and I thought it might be the typical AC compressor out thing. After trying to trouble shoot my radiator fan I realized the problem might be electrical. My radiator fan will work if I rig the Relay but it does not turn on when I turn on the AC. The other two cars I had, the fan would turn on every time I turned on the AC.
Today I rigged the AC relay to confirm that the clutch engages (to disproved that the compressor is bad) and that worked. Still when I turn on the AC all I get is the blower with warm air (not hot) and the clutch is not engaged on the compressor. The heater works fine.
Plus around the same time I have noticed a pretty big difference in gas mileage, from 25 in town to about 15.
Does this sound like I lost some sort of electrical control? I do not have a check engine light or anything.
I would apperciate some input before I get screwed by an automotive repair place.
Thanks in advance.
My AC went out this past december, (yeah its Texas I had to use it) and I thought it might be the typical AC compressor out thing. After trying to trouble shoot my radiator fan I realized the problem might be electrical. My radiator fan will work if I rig the Relay but it does not turn on when I turn on the AC. The other two cars I had, the fan would turn on every time I turned on the AC.
Today I rigged the AC relay to confirm that the clutch engages (to disproved that the compressor is bad) and that worked. Still when I turn on the AC all I get is the blower with warm air (not hot) and the clutch is not engaged on the compressor. The heater works fine.
Plus around the same time I have noticed a pretty big difference in gas mileage, from 25 in town to about 15.
Does this sound like I lost some sort of electrical control? I do not have a check engine light or anything.
I would apperciate some input before I get screwed by an automotive repair place.
Thanks in advance.
yaz4real
04-22-2007, 07:45 PM
Change out the two-wire ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor ) located on the driver's side of the cylinder head. It is removed with a 13mm deep 6 point socket. Cost is about $15 at the dealer and will be made of brass. The connector if corroded will need to be replaced also and is about $22. If you have tyhe original resin tyoe ECTS, on removal, you'll see why it needs replacement.
ant_129
04-23-2007, 09:09 PM
Already replaced, but thanks. I acutally found the answer based on someone else's comments about the radiator fan. I put it in the shop today and found out that it had a leak, I didn't realize that it would shut off the fan and the compressor if the refrigerant was low. They said the condensor had a leak, it would be about $600 to fix FYI.
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