97 Buick Stalling

My car has been stalling for a few months now and I cant figure out why. It never stalls in the morning on the way to work. Im guessing its because the engine is cool. Now on the way back home (Its usually wamer) the car almost always stops when the car gets warm. When the car gets warm I notice the oil pressure guage seems to be fine until i come to a stop then it drops considerably. Press the gas and it jumps back up. Kinda Weird. Its in the 10-15 minute range as well when it stops. I used to be able to put it in neutral and start it mid-roll. Now it won't always start but if i let it sit 5 or 10 it always starts. I really need help getting this fixed.

Replace the crank sensor and see what happens, your symptoms are typical of a failing crank sensor. :uhoh:
Also, it could be the ICM (Ignition Control Module) Click Here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=696042)for some more recent info.

I was reading in previous posts that a crankshaft sensor would not actually stall the vehicle. Is there any truth to that?

I was reading in previous posts that a crankshaft sensor would not actually stall the vehicle. Is there any truth to that?
:screwy: No, a CPS failure will stall the engine! :uhoh:

What about the oil pressure guage fluctuation. I also heard that was sometimes just "a GM problem." Definitly doesn't sound logical.

The oil pressure sensor has a very small orifice that can get clogged. It is located above the oil filter in the front of engine. Easy and cheap to replace! :grinyes:

Ran to the part store and picked up a crankshaft sensor. Judging by the forums this seems to be a pretty common problem. And today on the way I stalled out bad for about 10 minutes. My car was warm from driving it a couple hours before. I pulled over and tried to start it and start it and nothing. Then I doused some water on the engine and it started the next try. Any thoughts on that?

Click Here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=572176) & read post #3.

Ok so I had my mechanic change out my crank sensor with a brand new one just a few hours ago and it still stalled . He unplugged the fuel sensor and the vehicle drove the rest of the way home and started up right away. Although the check engine light was on of course. Next step is going to be forking out the money for the ICM unless any other options you can think of.

So now that the weather has been getting warmer the car is stalling more and more frequently. I am sure it has to do with the heat. I have been pouring water on my icm and on the new crank sensor and it doesnt make any difference. I cant really afford to just get a new car and this one is already payed off. I really need some more suggestions on how to fix.

Hello

Is your car stalling because there is a lack of fuel or lack of spark? When the engine stalls check for spark by having an extra sparkplug along with you. Pull a plug wire and conect it to the plug and lay the plug on the block. Turn the engine over and look for spark. If you have spark you have a fuel problem.

Also, fuel pumps can quite when they get hot. Something to think about.

Another item may be ground studs under the hood. My 97 was stalling....not quite like yours is....It turned out to be a dirty ground stud on the passenger fender. My lights would dim when I used the power windows, the engine even stalled when I held the powerwindow switch too long. My alternator wasn't charging very well, and I would get a check engine and other lights lighting up now and then and then go off.

Regards

Dan

Fm 'Dan' > Le Sabre 97 Mint

...check for spark by having an extra sparkplug along with you. Pull a plug wire and conect it to the plug and lay the plug on the block. Turn the engine over and look for spark. If you have spark you have a fuel problem.


Very Good suggestion > I'll add it to my 'library' of information. Thank You

Dan,
I was under the impression that if i had a fuel problem the vehicle would sputter and then quit. It never hesitates just dies. I have had my plugs and wires changed about 3 months ago so I dont think that would be the problem. I was hearing from a friend it could actually be my coil packs. There was a time when I bought a new battery and the vehicle ran fine ALL DAY. I thought it was fixed cause it didnt stall at all so I tested it by driving around for an hour or two. Then the next morning. Same old stalling.

My 93 is exhibiting the same symptoms. I've replaced the fuel pump, not the sock though, the fuel filter but no change. I've tested the fuel pressure when this starts sitting in the drive way and revving the engine the fuel pressure drops to almost zero. The pressure returns to normal at idle. I'm most likely going to take it in to a garage next week. I don't want to throw any more parts at it and not fix the D*****thing!!!!!!!!!. I'll post here if and when I find a solution, if I find one,, any help would be appreciated....

mmclean27

Have you checked the voltage output of the alt when the car is running? I would put a volt meter in the car so you can test when you're driving. I would be willing to guess that the voltage drops when the car stalls out.

Regards

Dan

Thanks for the suggestion, I've got the Limited with full instrument package I should be able to watch the altenator voltage output on that guage and see if it drops when the pressure goes away. I'll look for that today. Last night one the way home I had to stop 3 times form about 2 minutes each. I could then go another couple of miles before pulling over again. All this in my 14 mile commute the temp was in the eightys. this morning temp in the high 60s it gave only a hint of stalling. But tonight in the 80 s'poes I'll be stopping along the way again people kinda look at me funny when I suddenly loose power and wonder why I'm slowing with no place to pull over. Boy I'm having fun now....

If the volt meter says that i am losing voltage by using the volt meter, what are the possibilities of fixes from there. I have a cd player and amp system in my car. Which I rarely use and vehicle still seems to stall at same intervals on or off.

So I checked my check engine light and two came up. a P0341 which is a camshaft position sensor which i just changed two weeks ago and a P1406 code which is for the EGR position sensor performance.Any ideas?

So I checked my check engine light and two came up. a P0341 which is a camshaft position sensor which i just changed two weeks ago and a P1406 code which is for the EGR position sensor performance.Any ideas?

Hello

When you replaced the cam sensor did you clear the codes? That code may be from the old sensor.

As for your P1406 check out this link: http://www.sherco-auto.com/klean.htm I put a gasket with the screen and after getting my EGR valve unstuck and cleaned I haven't had a check engine light.

Regards

Dan

Yes I have cleared the codes recently and about one minute after the car stalled it flashed on. I have yet to get a chance to test it but I think this is one of the few times I was happy to see a check engine light. Its strange when your car stalls and turns itself right back on while driving. I cant help but think its an electrical problem.

So I checked my check engine light and two came up. a P0341 which is a camshaft position sensor which i just changed two weeks ago and a P1406 code which is for the EGR position sensor performance.Any ideas?

Correct me if I'm wrong. I thought you changed the Crank Position Sensor. Your codes are for the Cam Position Sensor.

I had the same problem. I changed them both since they relatively close to each other.

I was under the impression that there was only one or the other sensors in the vehicle. But you are correct it was the crank position I had changed.

As I said in an earlier post on this thread I had a similar problem with my 93. I had thought it was the fuel pump so I bought a new one from one of the National parts companies we're all familiar with. Still had the problem. Worse in hot weather than in cool weather. The shop I took it to did the trouble shooting based on years of experience. #1. they tapped on the crank sensor, they tell me that if it's bad that will cause the engine to die in many cases. didn't affect mine at all. Put a fuel pressure guage on the line and quiclkly noticed the pressure was pulsing and very low. The mechanic listened through the tank filler tube and both he and I could hear the pump pulsing off and on. he rasied the car and started to tap on the tank we could hear a noise like something loose in the tank. He had seen many cases where a baffle in the tank had broken loose. When this happens the pump is able to suck this baffle up to the pick up partially blockiing the fuel intake. Between this and the warm wheather it was causing this cheap pump to over heat and pulse off and on. So he installed a new Delco pump and a new tank after that and $535.00 my car runs as good as it did new. ITS FIXED!!!!!!

Marshall, did yout vehicle ever sputter and then stop or was it just from on to off. Mine shows no signs of anything until it stops. Always and only when the car has been running for longer than fifteen. Or was yours a little more intermittent. I basically would like to know the details of how your vehicle was acting to see if they coincide with mine.

mmclean

Hummer me and clean the ground stud by the battery on the passenger side. This gound stud gounds, I believe, the computer. This is a trouble spot on these cars.

Regards

Dan

I'll try to describe as best possible. Mine always ran pretty good in the cool mornings, however if I really got on it it would act as if it was out of gas. As soon as I let off the gas it would run OK. So if I drove like the "normal" Buick driver no particular problem. BUT!!! in the evening on the way home on a 75 to 80 degree day and after I had driven something like 20 minutes the problem would start. As an example If I took the interstate (just one of the ways I can get home) I would drive about 10 miles and suddenly when I geve it gas on a slight incline it would nearly die as if it was totally out of gas I would drop in speed and have to pull over to the side of the interstate "not fun!!!) wait maybe two minutes at which time I could start it a go another maybe 2 miles especially if I was not on an incline. then pull over turn it off and wait another couple of minutes and do the same thing over again until I got home. If I took the back road (much safer) I again could drive about 20 minutes and suddenly give it gas to go up a hill or start out at an intersection and it would almost die or die completely and I again would have to pull off and wait a couple of minutes and then go a mile or two and repeat the whole sequence over again. I would always make it but only after pulling off the road severl times to get home in a very BAD!!!! mood. 'nuff to send me to the refrerator for an adult beverage. After new tank from Auto Zone and new pump from Delco and $535. Its fixed!!!!:grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes: runs as good as my wifes 2000 Buick maybe better, Buicks seem to be of less quality as the years have past. I had a 88 Park Avenue 260,000 miles only the transmission was getting weak when I sold her. Bad mistake should have rebuilt it and kept her best car I ever had.

Marshall it seems like we have different cirumstances. Although there has been a few times where I was almost home and caught a long light. I would put it in neutral to keep the idle high hoping it wouldnt stall and then when it came green I would drop into drive and as soon as I touched the gas the vehicle lost power and the little battery light indicator turned on. Im happy it worked out for you. I know exactly what you mean by getting home in a bad mood. Mine doesnt seem to stall quite like yours but at more predictable intervals. I am able to punch the gas and it still drives fine as if no loss or fuel. Or like a Buick driver and drive the same. Its only after the car is hot for ten to fifteen. If I hook up a code reader to my car as it or when it is stalling, is it possible it may shoot a code out as to what the problem may be?

Ok so I cleared my codes And a p0341 came up and it came up again as pending. I cleared them and while driving today it stalled again as normal then kicked on 5 minutes later. Twenty or so seconds later the check engine light came on again. Same code. Now I know that is a CAMSHAFT code not a CRANKSHAFT. Does that mean the sensor itself needs changed or other troubleshooting? Im just glad its throwing a check engine light regularly. Thanks