1995 transmission flush

I raised my front end to do a transmission flush and fliter change(first time) but I have to stop cause don't know which is the return cooler line and how to remove the cooler line, which is connected to the passenger side of the radiator. There are 2 metal tube lines, one on top of the radiator and the other is at the low end of the radiator, passenger side. The ends (radiator side) is secured with a clip. Question is which one is the return line and how to remove the end line from the radiator? :banghead: 1995 windstar 3,8L, 105K. please help

A great question - and one I'd like to know, too!

Also, is it better to drop the pan before or after the flush?

On the '99: the tube to loosen is the lower one on the tranny.

Both tubes have a metal safety clip. But the plastic insert is what really holds the metal tube in place ... the "ears" on the plastic insert must be squeezed together while extracting the metal tube.

thanks, 12Ounce.. saw the metal clip but didn't see the "ears", will have it check closely 2morow. I traced the lower tube from the trany and follow it all the way to the radiator, and it's located at bottom end. But, the lower radiator hose is on the way so I will remove it to have space to work on.
what tool do I need to remove the "ears"?

You only want to take the metal tube away from the tranny and let it drop down toward some vessel to catch the fluid. I did not have to remove anything else ... just unhook the metal tube ... which is mounted on a hose.

You don't have to remove the "ears" ... in fact, don't try to remove the plastic piece .. it stays in place.

I think finger pressure was intended to be all that was required to squeeze the ears toward the tube ... but I had to use pliers to help.

Keep in mind, your model may have a different attachment means ... I don't know.

So the transmission fluid tube that gets removed (at the transmission end) is the one that runs from the BOTTOM of the radiator to the transmission? Is that right?

I have a 2000 3.8 with 57K Miles and I am considring doing the flush procedure outlined in this thread when I get to 60K and installing an oil cooler from B&M. But, im concerned about letting the tranny run dry of oil while running the engine. Would'nt that damage the unit? This will be the first time I will be doing this so please bare with me.

Lapin ... Yes.

Marz ... only the tranny pump is "dry" ... and it is still wet unless you let it run on and on. As soon as you refill the tranny, the pump gets wet again.

12Ounce.. still in the process of flushing tranny fluid, I disconnect the bottom rubber hose connected to the metal tube , (i used a dremel to cut the factory clamp ) and run idle the engine. the dark colored trans fluid comes out of the radiator side, NOT from the transmission side. did I disconnect the inlet side? does it matter?
I drained about 4quarts from the radiator side till stop draining, turned off engine. drop the filter pan, removed filter and round gasket and collected about 2 quarts. My next step is to clean the pan, replaced filter and round gasket, reused pan gasket and secure it. Then I will add 6 quarts of merconV which is the ATF for all windstar regardless of year made.(correct?) it's 9pm now and will continue the job 2morow. Questions are:
!.As I said earlier, fluid drains from radiator side not from tranny side, is this okay
2.I will add 6quarts of atf and drain it again, fill it up with amount drain and fill it up again till fluid drain is clean.
comments or suggestions pls.

I continue to work on my transmission flush, fill, drop pan. I noticed that a few(about 4 ) won't seem to thighten when putting back in place the filter pan. I think they're stripped. What is the best remedy for this problem? If I apply gasket sealer to the bolts, will it work to prevent fluid leak? the remaining bolts I torque it to 10ft.lbs. Pls help

tjg

The fluid is supposed to come from the radiator ... that way the cooler gets flushed.

I think most people go thru about 14 qts, or so, of new fluid to really clean up the tranny.

For stripped screw holes: I would try testing the hole with longer screws just to see if there are good threads deeper in. If there are good threads deeper, then I would make-up some appropriate length studs (with screwdriver slots) and drive them deep into the tranny. Then finish up using nuts and washers. Hope this makes sense.

This would work on a Winnie really well because the pan drops straight down.

It may be a bit late for you, but I have pictures posted of the transmission fluid change.
12ounce is correct, you disconnected the correct line.....as the fluid is going from the transmission, through the cooler, and out into your container.
This is flushing the old fluid from the cooler.

If you are changing the filter, please take note of that in my pictures as the small round gasket on the neck of the old filter often stays in the transmission when you remove the filter.
I show this, and that I remove the old filter gasket.
The new filter will not go in with the old gasket still stuck in there.....but it is easy to remove.....once you know that it is there.

A good fluid to use is Mobil 1 ATF.

Just curious TJ, why did you have to use a dremel tool to cut the metal clips? Doesnt it slide off the tube?

MARZBX..My windstar is 1995, 3.8L. Looking up, a metal tube from the side of the tranny (about 2ft long)is connected to a rubber hose, secured with a factory clamped on each end, and rubber hose is about a foot long, and connected to a metal tube again going all the way to the passenger side of radiator. In short, from the tranny, metal tube connected to a rubber hose then connected to a metal tube again all the way to the radiator. The only way to separate the rubber hose from the metal tube is to cut the factory clamped connector. I was very careful not to disturb/cut the rubber hose but did cut it about half inch at the end , , so I have to remove half inch of the rubber hose end, pull/strech the rubber hose to connect to the metal tube and secure it with an adjustable clamp. The tube opening is very small and was wondering the size that small can cool the tranmission.
I finished the whole job last night and thanks to all for your inputs, comments, plus all the threads in the forum, I read all of the threads about transmission flush, wiswind, 12ounce and others.advised. many thanks to all.

I also found those factory clamps to be a pain....and did much the same thing.
The hose and lines seem to be big enough to do the job...although as many have mentioned, a auxillary transmission cooler is a good idea.

Also, on my windstar, the fans only ran when high speed operation was called for.
This was due to the low speed dropping resistor being defective.
I posted pictures of the radiator fans dropping resistor.....it is kind of right behind the passenger side headlight.
The way to check to see if your radiator fans work on low speed is to see if the fans are on with the A/C on, at idle.....just lift the hood and see if they are running.
If not, you should check the low speed dropping resistor.
The fan low speed operation has a major impact on the transmission cooling, as well as engine cooling, in hot weather, when you are stuck in stop and go traffic.
Your transmission with thank you for the low speed radiator fan operation.