intake gaskets

Hey there everyone. I thought I would take a few moments to express my thanks to those in the forum that provided me input on my intake gasket fix, so thanks richtazz, crazy jim, LA1. For those of you that are thinking of doing this job yourself and don’t have a lot of experience, the best words of advice is to be organized. Get yourself a cheap Haynes Impala manual (42048). Take pictures before you start each process of tear down to give yourself reference for re-assembly. Make sure you have all the tools needed organized. Label all of your connectors and hoses. Give yourself plenty of space for putting and cleaning parts. Buy all your fluids, pipe compound and anti-seize (for spark plugs) at the same time you get the gaskets to avoid more trips to the parts store that will slow you down.

I got the car fixed with only a couple of hitches along the way (besides having to work as well as do the car). Since feedback is a good portion of this site, I thought I would give you a quick rundown of my progress through it..

Here is a picture of the engine before the tear down.
https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlp1/v/t1.0-9/11987079_1202066486486979_5467260190993220264_n.jp g?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=40a46db659a89313bc972f71c3be7598&oe=567ADA1E




Negative batter cable disconnected. Fuel pressure relieved (thanks tazz). Coolant drained. Remove top radiator hose, cross vehicle brace, coolant overflow tank, alternator and alternator mounting bracket.
https://fbcdn-photos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xlp1/v/t1.0-0/11960117_1202066473153647_329826107141212827_n.jpg ?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=0e823dd810865b59fa72478714fc58d9&oe=56743C71&__gda__=1450173027_baaf5ec96dc8a1a620061a5e7cca8fb 7




Remove air filter and ductwork. Remove throttle and cruise control cables.
https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11163778_1202066549820306_303394648240277607_n.jpg ?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=5b8493ca8b131afad03506fd09af5c97&oe=5666637B





Label and remove any more connections for the wiring harness and set it aside.
https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/11156288_1202066559820305_7922830177852534236_n.jp g?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=c7aee62a388157aa257fec7a5690bbad&oe=567F4B2F





Remove coil pack, plug wires, power steering pump (set it aside) and coolant bypass pipe. I was able to get mine out without having to take off either of the top motor struts.
https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11350868_1202066553153639_8074331450901042248_n.jp g?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=45834d4a8a2301b81179940cc22e39a9&oe=565E6717






Remove EGR from upper intake. Remove upper intake. Take care to keep all brackets held on by the intake, with the intake. Use a plastic bag.
https://fbcdn-photos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xlf1/v/t1.0-0/11960181_1202066556486972_8006954493761401550_n.jp g?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=dbfd707f51943c6a836ab4f41caa3ff8&oe=56AAA1BA&__gda__=1450792737_2307ddb1b5bc99ef22df13dc02962f3 9





Remove fuel lines. 9/16 SAE on back rail and No. 27 torx for front rail (remove the fuel sensor retaining clip from the fuel rail and keep it with the torx bolt). Remove valve covers (for the back you need a 5/16 SAE with a 1/4 inch drive and 2" extention to fit beside the coil pack mounting stud). Remove thermostat (not shown). This will make it easier to get the lower intake off.
https://fbcdn-photos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpt1/v/t1.0-0/11846665_1202066563153638_3770269700374595978_n.jp g?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=a068dc0e1dfc45685077a25818329dfc&oe=56A80B08&__gda__=1449933448_020bbc38020494f5715ca751b4a6375 9





Loosen the fuel rail mounting bolts (to allow room to get to lower intake bolts). Remove lower intake. Loosen bolts 1/4 turn at a time to avoid warping the intake. This picture was also very helpful in the re-assembly. You can see that the pushrods are paint coded for easy identification. Exhaust (6" long) are marked bright orange and intake (5 3/4" long) are light orange. If you do what I did (cleaned pushrods thus removing paint) this picture could be a life saver. Its also possible to identify where the intake rods go by looking into the lower intake chambers. As you can see, where the fuel is drawn in, its clean. The direction of the mark is the location where the intake rods should go.
https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/11947413_1202066476486980_7159529018565976027_n.jp g?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=7e51c12467761c1c7d57b28bcf357af9&oe=5671712F





This is a picture of where my leak was. Drivers side back water jacket. You can see how the silicone gasket is all warped and falling out of the plastic allowing coolant to exit the intake around the angled bolt. It also was deteriorating the RTV on the block seal. Coolant is still visible on the block right under where the intake would be.
https://scontent-dfw1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11951239_1202066483153646_1741739563020186455_n.jp g?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=69a21086932f8abeef18b9f2601ec6ad&oe=5662A0B9




This was about the time I had to go to work and I forgot to take pictures of the push rods removed. For reference, I would also also take a picture of the table where you have the disassembled parts. Then if you are missing something you can identify where it could be.

And here is the final product.
https://fbcdn-photos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtf1/v/t1.0-0/11987114_1202066479820313_4254825585974104686_n.jp g?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=6a4801cc63815059131e06e561ac4821&oe=5676F470&__gda__=1449076696_1a2f52be38cd9fdb207ac98329871dc 3




I have checked for both oil and coolant leaks and have not found any. Although my car still stinks like coolant when it gets warm. Hopefully that will eventually burn away. So there you have it. Total cost for FelPro gaskets, Gastrol Syntec 5W-30, AC Delco oil filter and Murry + thermostat was around $150 or so. Less than $200 for sure and my car is back on the road.

I hope this post and pictures might help the next novice out!

Jim

Excellent post! Thank-you for your efforts and commitment to sharing. Dave~

Good post.

Here is one of the best LIM gasket procedures I've seen on the 3400 VIN "E" which goes into alot more detail. :wink:

Click here (http://d-tips.com/General/Articles/Default.aspx)


Also, keep in mind GM revised the LIM bolt torque pattern and torque values in October 2003.


The material used in the gasket has been changed in order to improve the sealing qualities of the gasket. When replacing the gasket, the intake manifold bolts must also be replaced and torqued to a revised specification. The new bolts will come with a pre-applied threadlocker on them.

Notice

An oil leak may result if the vertical bolts are not tightened before the diagonal bolts.


Diagonal bolts may require a crows foot to tighten.

Tighten

1. Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 7 N.m (62 lb in).

2. Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 7 N.m (62 lb in).

3. Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 13 N.m (115 lb in).

4. Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

Nice post and pictures, and you are very welcome.

Hmmm.... I didnt torque the angled bolts to 18 ft/lbs after acheiving 115 in/lbs. That sucks as that means that the upper intake and throttle body along, alternator and power steer needs to come back off. Looks like I had better get it back into the garage quick.

Also, concerning the coolant smell in the engine compartment... I didnt have the clip on the coolant bypass hose that goes under the upper intake. A small amount was seen on the front valve cover when I checked the oil today. Hopefully any coolant that ran down to the exhaust will burn away soon. So yeah.... DOUBLE AND TRIPLE check all connections and hoses ;)

And thanks for posting that link bNaylor. That is a very informative article and anyone planning on doing this fix for themselves should definately read that. My post was basically giving everyone a quick run down of what I did and in what order. Thanks for the feedback AF!! Gotta love this site!

Bnaylor, very good post and thanks for the added information on the torque spec change...Hope I don't need it!

Wouldn't it be a good idea to make this thread a "sticky" and put it at the top of the list so others can reference it as they need it, instead of having it slip into "oblivion" and then have to search for it?

Wouldn't it be a good idea to make this thread a "sticky" and put it at the top of the list so others can reference it as they need it, instead of having it slip into "oblivion" and then have to search for it?

Good suggestion Tom. We could do that or another suggestion is what some of the other GM forums are doing. For example at Pontiac Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Cutlass/N Bodies and Buick we have started Tips & Maintenance Procedures subforums where members can post their experiences, any guidelines and R&R procedures including pics. See link below for example.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=2142

Let me know and we shall take the matter under careful consideration to decide what is best for this forum.

I think that is an excellent idea, I sometimes forget where I read a procedure and need to reference to it. Having it posted in a sub-forum as mentioned could help this old guy. Example: I used a procedure to reset the brakes after a pad and rotor change and think it went like this...turn ignition to acc, pump the brake pedal 5 times slowly and and add brake fluid to level and your done. No bleeding necessary. Can't remember where I found that info, I've re-read all the books I've used and not found it...Might have been Alldata, but sub ran out...Yeah I like the idea!

Stickied.

John

Finally picked up the intake gasket set for my 3.4l 2002 Impala 92k (base model). I went with FelPro at AutoZone. $85 for upper, lower, and valve cover gaskets. Question is: how do I know if this set conforms to GM's latest spec for these gaskets? I suppose I could contact FelPro, and I probably will, but I was wondering if anybody out there could offer reassurance.

There is an excellent chance that the gaskets you purchased are the revised version. It's been almost 5 years since they were released and with the number of intake repairs performed in this county alone , I'm sure the supply of old gaskets was exhausted and replaced with the newer version long ago. Especially since you say you purchased them at Autozone, they tend to have a fairly high turnover rate on an item like that.If in doubt you still can contact Fel Pro to ease your worries.

good post

one recommendation

I would highly recommend getting the factory manuals from HELM. It is a 3 volume set with 2 of the books the size of phone books. Haynes codences this down to one volume of 300 or so pages. They leave out a lot of info, like for instance on the malibu upper intake replacement. They leave out the fact that you have to remove the passenger side motor mount. Which means partially jacking up the engine with a floor jack. Imagine buying parts,getting to that point and finding you do not have a floor jack. You have spent good money getting top line parts like FEL-PRO gaskets why go cheapo on the manual. Plus you will have the manual for other repair jobs. The same very same manual the Mechanics use when you take your car to the shop.

About to begin the intake manifold job on my '02 3.4l Impala (93k). Picked up the Felpro gaskets a few weeks ago. Mechanics will probably think this is crazy, but I went through my shops manuals and expanded the entire removal and install (sub) procedures into one big linear procedure (so that I can procede from step A to Z without flipping pages back and forth in my manuals).

Got a few questions after doing this, however:

REMOVAL STEP #2: Remove the Upper Intake Manifold:

1.) Sub-Step 10 says to "remove the ignition coil bracket with the coils", however the sub-steps say to remove the coils from the ICM. Will this be necessary?

2.) Sub-Step 13 says to remove the EGR valve, which has a gasket. Will this gasket need to be replace on re-install?

3.) Sub-Step 18 says to remove the throttle body if replacing the intake manifold. This implies that I shouldn't have to remove the throttle body, right?

4.) Sub-Step 19 says to "clean the upper intake gasket mating surfaces". How is this best done?

REMOVAL STEP #3: Remove the LEFT valve rocker arm cover:

5.) Sub-Step 3 says to "remove the right engine mount strut". Sub-Step 4 says to remove the thermostat bypass hose and pipe - which includes removal of the "LH engine mount strut". If BOTH engine mounts are removed, what's holding up the engine at this point? Also part of the T-stat bypass hose/pipe removal is the removal of the "fuel injector sight shield". Can all this T-stat bypass hose/pipe removal-related stuff be skipped? I thought I remember seeing someone say they did this.

REMOVAL STEP #9: Remove the fuel FEED pipe from the fuel injector rail:

6.) Sub-Step 1 says to "Relieve Fuel Pressure" by installing a fuel pressure gauge fitting and fuel pressure gauge, then installing a bleed hose and opening a valve. What's the easier way to do this?

7.) Sub-Step 5 says to "Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel FEED pipe and the fuel return pipe in the engine compartment". Sub-Step 6 says to "Disconnect the quick-connect fitting from the fuel RETURN pipe in front of the fuel tank". Is this necessary?

REMOVAL STEP #11: Remove the Fuel Injector Rail:

8.) Sub-Step 14 says to "Remove the injector O-ring seal from the spray tip end of each injector". Is this necessary?

REMOVAL STEP #12: Remove the power steering pump:

8.) Do the pressure line and return hoses need to be dis-connected? Can I avoid bleeding the system later on?

---------------------------------------------------

INSTALL STEP #5: Apply bead of RTV Sealer (to install Lower Intake gaskets)

9.) What type and brand of RTV Sealer should I use (other than the GM P/N mentioned)?

INSTALL STEP #7: Install the valve rocker arms and push rods:

10.) Sub-steps specify "pre-lube" to be put on the ends of the push rods and rocker arm friction surfaces. What type and brand to use ?? Also when the valve rocker arm bolts are tightened to 19 N-m, it also specifies an "additional 30 degrees" of tightening. What's with that?

INSTALL STEP #9: Apply thread locker to lower intake manifold bolts:

11.) Can I buy the thread locker in a store, or do I have to get the GM P/N? Also, can I clean and re-use the old bolts?

INSTALL STEP #10: Lower Intake bolt tightening schedule:

a.) Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (4 inner bolts) to 7 N-m or 62 lb in
b.) Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (4 outer bolts) to 7 N-m or 62 lb in
c.) Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (2nd round) to 13 N-m or 115 lb in
d.) Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2nd round) to 13 N-m or 115 lb in

Are this values still good, or have they been revised since the manual was printed?

INSTALL STEP #15: Install the fuel injector rail:

12.) Sub-step 8 calls for NEW O-RINGS in the fuel feed pipe and fuel return pipe. Necessary?

INSTALL STEP #24: Install the upper intake manifold:

13.) Sub-procedure makes no mention of any sealant being used on the gaskets. Is this correct?

-------------------------------------------
Also, procedure doesn't appear to mention any special tools. Are there any, or are there any ADDITIONAL repairs that are recommended that the manual hasn't mentioned?


Sorry for the length of this post...

Hello,

Great Pictures ! Heres my problem and I mean a problem I was doing a standard intake replace ment on the same car (3.4 liter ) my assistant knocked over my arranged pushrods and I do not know what order to put them in. If any one can tell me the arrangement and if they have to be a specific way for flow. Email me at benjaminj@ufl.edu or call me 786 879 0420 . I should have been done with this many moons ago. :shakehead HELP ME

If any one can tell me the arrangement and if they have to be a specific way for flow.

Welcome to AF.

The pushrods should have been kept in order. Since they are mixed up there will be no specific order and you may have to consider installing new pushrods and possibly lifters. In the meantime you can tell the difference between the exhaust and intake pushrods because the exhaust pushrods will be longer than the intake pushrods. See pic below.

http://articles.d-tips.com/art10_files/image011.jpg

Thank you,

I really appreciate the reply to my post. That information but what I need to know is ther order . Basically, which is exhaust and which is intake. I know that the exhaust is 6 " and the intake is 5 3/4 ".


If you could let me know that would great .

Thank you,

ben

Thank you,

I really appreciate the reply to my post. That information but what I need to know is ther order . Basically, which is exhaust and which is intake. I know that the exhaust is 6 " and the intake is 5 3/4 ".


If you could let me know that would great .

Thank you,

ben

See the original post where the OP took time to post excellent pics and instructions. There should be a section where it mentions placement. See below.

Click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=4684395&postcount=1)

Hello,


I took a loiok at the original post and I did not see a picture where he had them out ,so I could see their order. He made mention of it in the ad.


I'm just going to copy the picture and replace everything . I should be okay



Thank you

You do not have to go the dealer for new intake bolts anymore and Dorman Products fixed this.Dorman has an intake gasket kit out for the 3100 and 3400 with new intake bolts and the o ring for the oil pump drive.The intake gaskets are made out of metal instead of plastic and is cheaper than Fel Pro.

I just bought an 05 Impala for my wife and i was wondering what years were affected by the LIM. :sly:

I believe for the Impala(3.4) it was 2000 to 2003. GM issued a revised gasket in the summer of 2002 and the issue should have been resolved by the end of the 2003 model run.
I have seen some issues with the 3.8 engine run until 2004.
Your 2005 should be free of LIM issues related to it's predecessors.

I believe for the Impala(3.4) it was 2000 to 2003. GM issued a revised gasket in the summer of 2002 and the issue should have been resolved by the end of the 2003 model run.
I have seen some issues with the 3.8 engine run until 2004.
Your 2005 should be free of LIM issues related to it's predecessors.


That's a relief......Thanks :)

Hey there everyone. I thought I would take a few moments to express my thanks to those in the forum that provided me input on my intake gasket fix, so thanks richtazz, crazy jim, LA1. For those of you that are thinking of doing this job yourself and don’t have a lot of experience, the best words of advice is to be organized. Get yourself a cheap Haynes Impala manual (42048). Take pictures before you start each process of tear down to give yourself reference for re-assembly. Make sure you have all the tools needed organized. Label all of your connectors and hoses. Give yourself plenty of space for putting and cleaning parts. Buy all your fluids, pipe compound and anti-seize (for spark plugs) at the same time you get the gaskets to avoid more trips to the parts store that will slow you down.

I got the car fixed with only a couple of hitches along the way (besides having to work as well as do the car). Since feedback is a good portion of this site, I thought I would give you a quick rundown of my progress through it..

Here is a picture of the engine before the tear down.
http://a710.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/63/l_2f8bacd76d475e91484d9ebeb4256985.jpg




Negative batter cable disconnected. Fuel pressure relieved (thanks tazz). Coolant drained. Remove top radiator hose, cross vehicle brace, coolant overflow tank, alternator and alternator mounting bracket.
http://a359.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/56/l_b055c55ca8d508fb1648550023cbab7e.jpg




Remove air filter and ductwork. Remove throttle and cruise control cables.
http://a61.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/25/l_6dd4b5a346eedaf82bbc28b628c7ba34.jpg





Label and remove any more connections for the wiring harness and set it aside.
http://a380.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/11/l_b77b0659c26c1fdfee118805db4fc1fb.jpg





Remove coil pack, plug wires, power steering pump (set it aside) and coolant bypass pipe. I was able to get mine out without having to take off either of the top motor struts.
http://a375.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/37/l_a53ec0cfd26208711af7503e159be366.jpg






Remove EGR from upper intake. Remove upper intake. Take care to keep all brackets held on by the intake, with the intake. Use a plastic bag.
http://a933.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/32/l_2e19afb9d4adb2283875a7f260e3b0cc.jpg





Remove fuel lines. 9/16 SAE on back rail and No. 27 torx for front rail (remove the fuel sensor retaining clip from the fuel rail and keep it with the torx bolt). Remove valve covers (for the back you need a 5/16 SAE with a 1/4 inch drive and 2" extention to fit beside the coil pack mounting stud). Remove thermostat (not shown). This will make it easier to get the lower intake off.
http://a251.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/49/l_56733f5662a9a67aa6dd242e1b39cc62.jpg





Loosen the fuel rail mounting bolts (to allow room to get to lower intake bolts). Remove lower intake. Loosen bolts 1/4 turn at a time to avoid warping the intake. This picture was also very helpful in the re-assembly. You can see that the pushrods are paint coded for easy identification. Exhaust (6" long) are marked bright orange and intake (5 3/4" long) are light orange. If you do what I did (cleaned pushrods thus removing paint) this picture could be a life saver. Its also possible to identify where the intake rods go by looking into the lower intake chambers. As you can see, where the fuel is drawn in, its clean. The direction of the mark is the location where the intake rods should go.
http://a391.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/51/l_e7174dff161cadaf4c6519587ee12626.jpg





This is a picture of where my leak was. Drivers side back water jacket. You can see how the silicone gasket is all warped and falling out of the plastic allowing coolant to exit the intake around the angled bolt. It also was deteriorating the RTV on the block seal. Coolant is still visible on the block right under where the intake would be.
http://a852.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/4/l_741015145485536790d79d1847798a9b.jpg




This was about the time I had to go to work and I forgot to take pictures of the push rods removed. For reference, I would also also take a picture of the table where you have the disassembled parts. Then if you are missing something you can identify where it could be.

And here is the final product.
http://a961.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/64/l_931c5e8f99c51d5517801a6499b36da8.jpg




I have checked for both oil and coolant leaks and have not found any. Although my car still stinks like coolant when it gets warm. Hopefully that will eventually burn away. So there you have it. Total cost for FelPro gaskets, Gastrol Syntec 5W-30, AC Delco oil filter and Murry + thermostat was around $150 or so. Less than $200 for sure and my car is back on the road.

I hope this post and pictures might help the next novice out!

Jim

Excellent post! Thanks for sharing the photos. Regarding the smell of coolant, I was informed that due to leaky gaskets, GM installs stop leak tablets from the factory. You can buy them from parts dept. of a new car dealer at a premium price, or use the Bars Leaks brand from any parts store. They are made mostly of almond shells, look light brown in color. Follow the instructions for how many to put in the radiator depending on the displacement/ number of cylinders of your engine. Even if there is no leak or coolant loss problem, when the cooling system is flushed out, and new anti-freeze coolant is installed, those anti-leak tablets are also supposed to be replaced! This step is not widely known. As far as I know, it is not mentioned, even in the factory service manual, which I have. The anti leak tablets, when used on a new engine, and with continued use, also help to coat the cooling system aluminum components, preventing pitting of the aluminum. Aluminum doesn't rust, but it does turn black and pit when it oxidizes. This may have been GM's answer on the cheap to a problem known to them about their gaskets. It is a cheap ounce of prevention.

surrender (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=481102) great step by step. pics make it even better. luv my '04 impala 3.4L. still getting 30-31 miles 2 gal. and dun nuttn but breaks. i drive 120 miles a day 4 work. one of the best cars i ever owned. including over-all maintence and cost of car. did learn though get rid of that DEX-COOL. first thing i did at 22,000 miles when i bought it. and no probs with gaskets. at least not yet
AF Newbie

Intake Manifold Replacement - Lower

Removal Procedure

1. Disconnect the negative bakery.
2. Remove the upper intake manifold.
3. Remove the left valve rocker arm cover.
4. Remove the right valve rocker arm cover.
Intake Manifold Replacement - Lower

http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854678-1.gif
Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor electrical connector.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854677-1.gif
Disconnect and remove the fuel injector and the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor wiring harnesses.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854676-1.gif
Remove the fuel pipe clip bolt.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854675-1.gif
Remove the fuel pipe clip.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854674-1.gif
Remove the fuel feed pipe from the fuel injector rail.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854673-1.gif
Remove the fuel return pipe from the fuel injector rail.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854672-1.gif
Remove the fuel injector rail.
Remove the power steering pump from the front engine cover and reposition.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854671-1.gif
Remove the heater inlet pipe with heater hose from the lower intake manifold and reposition.
Remove the radiator inlet hose from the engine.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854670-1.gif
Remove the thermostat bypass hose from the thermostat bypass pipe and lower intake manifold pipe.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854669-1.gif
Remove the lower intake manifold bolts.
Remove the lower intake manifold.
Remove the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854668-1.gif
Remove the lower intake manifold gaskets and seals.
Clean the lower intake manifold gasket mating surfaces.
Remove and clean all the RTV sealant from the lower intake manifold and the engine block (1).
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854667-1.gif
Remove the ECT sensor.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854666-1.gif
Remove the water outlet bolts.
Remove the water outlet.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854665-1.gif
Remove the thermostat.

Installation Procedure
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854664-1.gif
Install the thermostat.
Install the water outlet. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. See: Service Precautions
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854663-1.gif
Install the water outlet bolts. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854662-1.gif
Install the ECT sensor. Tighten the sensor to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854661-1.gif
Apply 8 - 12 mm (0.08 - 0.11 inch) bead of RTV Sealer, GM P/N 12345739 Canadian P/N 10953541 or equivalent, on each ridge where front and rear of the lower intake manifold contact the engine block (1).
Install the lower intake manifold gaskets.
Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods.
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Install the lower intake manifold.
Apply sealant, GM P/N 12345382 Canadian P/N 10953489 to the threads of the bolts. Notice: An oil leak may result if the vertical bolts are not tightened before the diagonal bolts.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/126051372-1.gif
Install NEW lower intake manifold bolts. Revised Updated Torque Specification, Bulletin #vss20030024 The torque specification is a 2-step process; tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (the four middle ones) to 7 Nm (62 lb in). Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (two on each end) to 7 Nm (62 lb in). Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (the four middle ones) to 13 Nm (115 lb in). Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (two on each end) to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).
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Install the thermostat bypass hose to the thermostat bypass pipe and lower intake manifold pipe.
Install the radiator inlet hose to the engine.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854658-1.gif
Install the heater inlet pipe and heater hose to the lower intake manifold.
Install the power steering pump to the front engine cover.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854657.gif
Install the fuel injector rail.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854656.gif
Install the fuel return pipe to the fuel injector rail.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854655.gif
Install the fuel feed pipe to the fuel injector rail
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854654.gif
Install the fuel pipe clip.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/98854653.gif
Install the fuel pipe clip bolt. Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.).
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/298854652-1.gif
Install and connect the fuel injector and the MAP sensor wiring harnesses.
http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/ad260/autotech234/198854651-1.gif
Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector.
Install the right valve rocker arm cover.
Install the left valve rocker arm cover.
Install the upper intake manifold.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Inspect for leaks.

Hello,
Having seen the original post of the photos, I must say I like the diagrams, but think the photos were quite helpful as well. I would like to see those reposted if at all possible? Also knowing that the original torque specs were revised helped me avoid the total tear down by disovering a loose diagonal bolt beside the temp sensor that was leaking......thanks for all you do for us.:runaround:

Ive just about had it with my 04 Impala 3.4 litre engine. I spent almost $2000 in parts several months ago started as lower intake gasket job but this kid I hired to do it messed up an didn't replace pushrods in correct order...wow..awsome he bent a rod..so had head resurfaced valves reseated EVERYTHING done new all gaskets belts o rings yes weird o rings that dealers try to sell for $40 for the fuel pressure regulator finally ordered whole OE fuel pressure regulator threw napa..TONS of work cos of the kids mistakes. never put pushrods in n a hurry!! So months later an my lovely Impala is back on chop block..this time fluid out tail pipe AND loud knocking sound from top end. its running on limp mode towed it home after looking I honestly am wondering if lower intake gaskets shot again small amount of oil there..am wondering if the kid didn't tork bolts down to the right specs?? Im so frustrated..plz can someone help me trouble shoot?? I have a new transmission sitting in my closet waiting to go in when this tranny goes out..am about to loose love for my 04Impala..Impossipala..ugh. help me plz oh I think I could do all this work for the lower intake gasket just don't have all the tools do have a new tork wrench..never been dropped lol.

Are you jumping the gun?

What kind of fluid? Coolant or condensation? Is the coolant level low in the radiator or reservoir?

Sure you don't have a bad misfire?

$2000? Depending on the shop(labor rate/parts markup/guarantee), cost for job is $600-$900......let a "kid" do this kind of a job?

Hey thank you for responding. the coolant level is not even reading in resovre an seems slightly low in radiator the kid just had graduated WYOTEC here in California and id a friend . Ill try to determine is it is just condensation or coolant..the knocking..could it be a rocker or another rod. Im sorry Im lost on this Impala..however I love it..I have no idea what's goin on yet. should I do compression check an also check my coolant for exaust?

Sorry, not a good sign that your coolant levels are low, if they were normal before this happened......if enough coolant is in the exhaust, it could actually block the exhaust and choke the engine......

What I would do is get a coolant pressure tester, and pressurize the system overnight.....next, remove the plugs and disable fuel and ignition(disconnect injector harness and remove power from the ICM[two wire connector on the passenger side])......then have someone crank the vehicle....if coolant comes out of any of the spark plug holes, chances are you have a head gasket/head problem.....

Thank you Tech II. I Will do recommended tests when it stops raining here. if the gasket /head is having issues I unfortunately may have to sell I HAVE a clean rebuilt transmission sitting in my closet for this Impala . I don't want to give up but have no not enough tools to do it on top of lack of knowledge about this car have done head sets on VWs but thats way different . The shops want WAY too much here. I Will do what you recommend an go from there. thank you for your time Tech II .... Ive been loosening sleep over this...how can it be that this cars gaskets were all replaced an so much brought up to par yet same problems again ??are the 3.4 aluminum heads all doin this or is it possible the last job was just enough off on tork pressure on the intake bolts or the rods or valves just slightly off a problem ? Or Im wondering if its something I did. drove it pretty hard an fast on a steep long road trip one day it was hot that day an when I got to intense incline the temp went way up. :( i feel like a jerk for not knowing more sorry..enough to eventually cause

What was the timeline on this?

How long ago and how many miles ago, was the intake done?

It was done just this last mid November an as far as miles idk Im at work so id have to guess an over estimated guess would be around under 7,000 miles

Reason I asked about the timeline was, have seen many jobs diagnosed as an intake, when it was also a head gasket, and you end up doing the job twice .....

When we did it back in Nov we did the head set too

Let's see if there is coolant in the cylinders after pressurizing the system....

I have it opened up right now two of the lifters where completely loose!! When pulled out the threading came out with one. i can't afforded a new head right now goin to tap it an looking for slightly bigger rocker bolt..Im so not happy with this its goin to completely mess the threading up permanently. Im at a loss could it be that the rocker bolts weren't tightend tdown enough do they need to be done a certain way. ugh Im so sad about this :(

I assume you mean the rocker arms were loose......fact the threads came out, more than likely happened during removal or over torquing on installation......

This puts the WHOLE job in question, unfortunately......

Yes right the rocker arms..sorry was rushed. so I need a new head but Im wondering maybe a new one isn't that exspensive. for now a temp fix rethreaded the bolt..wich is a crazy idea to me but I don't have cash to get a new head right away. I am wondering what are the directions or specs to correctly tork these bolts? Its hard to say wether the threads came out with removal or due to over torking however its possible it is over tork its common with these aluminum 3.4 heads....I honestly am looking at my old jeep with cast iron head with new eyes ...time to replace the battery post on the ol jeep an get it up an running for back up. i have 3jobs an can't afford to miss work . My plan now is to think over the option of buying new head an at same time have the new tranny put in Ill have the $ to do it in about 30days ...I have decisions to make not sure what to think on my poor Impala Have put ALOT of $$an effort into it....

I have said this before on other threads, about doing an intake job, or any engine job....

You have to be careful when removing bolts with power tools.....anyone who has taken out spark plugs, that are hard to take out, know you have to "work" them out......slowly work them counter clockwise, then clockwise, and do this repeatedly, to get the plug out without destroying the threads in the head....in some cases, the threads can be retapped, in others you may have to helicoil them, or worse case scenario, you replace the head......if you just force them out, say good bye to the threads....

See this happen on rocker arm bolts all the time....someone puts their high torque air ratchet on the bolt, hits the trigger, and takes that bolt out, along with the threads......what you should do first, is "break" the bolt first....by that I mean, manually loosen it, so that you know the bolt is not sticking to the threads.....then take it out the rest of the way with the power tool....

Your first option, instead of replacing the head, is to try and helicoil the bolt hole......the head does not have to come out of the car to do this......there are many videos on Youtube, showing the process.....I recommend you find a tech that has done this before.....it is simple, if you know what you are doing......

With the helicoil in, it is stronger than the original thread, and the bolt can be torqued to spec(guessing 14 foot pounds, plus 30 degrees)....

Thank you for tork specs. will watch videos . no power tools were used last job or this one. Was unawares of the helicoil will look into it used red addhesive for bolts but can't remember name off top of my head. Im glad to hear its possible to do rethreading correctly your advice an time is so appreciated..thanks again Tech II :)

Did this fix eight years and 70,000 miles ago...still runs 👍🏻