36 cylinders
360spider
12-03-2007, 07:44 AM
I'm glad I'm not doing this one! :lol:
Yeah, no kidding!
Great job Gio!
Yeah, no kidding!
Great job Gio!
agamo
12-03-2007, 09:00 AM
Very nice job!!
I used 0.5mm thick brass: next time I'll try to find copper: much easy to bend and cut.
WOW! That’s too thick! No wonder why you had a hard time bending it, and it seems that a little more bending at the front is still needed isn’t it? So the front end of the hood sits at the same level than the body.
Gio, For this applications brass is fine, next time try with 0.1 mm thickness, it is strong enough to hold the form perfectly, and it is very easy to bend to shape even when you have to make curves in two directions in the same piece.
Keep that good job going!
I used 0.5mm thick brass: next time I'll try to find copper: much easy to bend and cut.
WOW! That’s too thick! No wonder why you had a hard time bending it, and it seems that a little more bending at the front is still needed isn’t it? So the front end of the hood sits at the same level than the body.
Gio, For this applications brass is fine, next time try with 0.1 mm thickness, it is strong enough to hold the form perfectly, and it is very easy to bend to shape even when you have to make curves in two directions in the same piece.
Keep that good job going!
Jamme
12-03-2007, 01:48 PM
Very nice start, Gio.
By the way, this is J. Swaters car (The blue and green, I mean.)
I didn't know he sold it.
Your buddy is very lucky, as this is a really beautiful car.
Cheers
Jamme
By the way, this is J. Swaters car (The blue and green, I mean.)
I didn't know he sold it.
Your buddy is very lucky, as this is a really beautiful car.
Cheers
Jamme
gionc
12-03-2007, 03:01 PM
Thanks guys.
Ramon: yep, some little adjustments and would be decent. Iagree, thick, but in this way I'll work also the edge: next time thin stuff (or copper)
JM: Mabe he bought, not sold: this was build for the young Giovanni Agnelli over the '50, I guess it's now at Swaters Found. at Zaventem (Ecuderie Franchorchamps?). I seen it with Stevensky showed at Rovereto (50 Km close to me) in February and then at Ferrari's gallery this summer.
Ramon: yep, some little adjustments and would be decent. Iagree, thick, but in this way I'll work also the edge: next time thin stuff (or copper)
JM: Mabe he bought, not sold: this was build for the young Giovanni Agnelli over the '50, I guess it's now at Swaters Found. at Zaventem (Ecuderie Franchorchamps?). I seen it with Stevensky showed at Rovereto (50 Km close to me) in February and then at Ferrari's gallery this summer.
Jamme
12-03-2007, 03:35 PM
Thank You for the answer Gio.
J. Swaters is an old driver and boss for years from the "Garage Francorchamps".
14 Years ago I worked for the Belgian importer of Bburago, who had his headquarters just at the other side of the street where the Garage Francorchamps was.
I saw the car there, with a 500 TRC and a 288 GTO.......
souvenirs, souvenirs......
Jamme
J. Swaters is an old driver and boss for years from the "Garage Francorchamps".
14 Years ago I worked for the Belgian importer of Bburago, who had his headquarters just at the other side of the street where the Garage Francorchamps was.
I saw the car there, with a 500 TRC and a 288 GTO.......
souvenirs, souvenirs......
Jamme
klutz_100
12-03-2007, 03:43 PM
souvenirs, souvenirs......
Il faut "revenir"!!!!! :rofl: ;)
Il faut "revenir"!!!!! :rofl: ;)
gionc
12-12-2007, 12:06 PM
Little update, but at last sweaty....
Back cowling need a lot of job to fit the resin: also it's 2mm+ thick in some points (edges) and 0.5 in some other (convex part). More #0064 trunk is different, shorter than my friend's stuff: I'd to cut, glued and filled the cutted part with 2k metal putty. It needs yet some finishing job.
I done an interesting job in the engine hood: shape is almost ok after some filling (only you do deformations any time you do something over....) it needs some fine adjustments yet, anyway I done the central reinforcement seaming a piece of wire, and smoothing all sanding down then.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIM6081.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6082.jpg
Back cowling need a lot of job to fit the resin: also it's 2mm+ thick in some points (edges) and 0.5 in some other (convex part). More #0064 trunk is different, shorter than my friend's stuff: I'd to cut, glued and filled the cutted part with 2k metal putty. It needs yet some finishing job.
I done an interesting job in the engine hood: shape is almost ok after some filling (only you do deformations any time you do something over....) it needs some fine adjustments yet, anyway I done the central reinforcement seaming a piece of wire, and smoothing all sanding down then.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIM6081.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6082.jpg
quadzero
12-12-2007, 12:45 PM
Nice work on that seam down the hood, How did you attach the wire to the metal hood? I don't see any hint of glue or solder.
gionc
12-12-2007, 04:53 PM
Nice work on that seam down the hood, How did you attach the wire to the metal hood? I don't see any hint of glue or solder.
Hi Les: I seamed with solder than I sand down excess ;)
Hi Les: I seamed with solder than I sand down excess ;)
kanedge
12-12-2007, 09:01 PM
Gio - great work on the body mods, and the line down the bonnet is very neat.
Alex - sensational paintwork as always.
Klutz - what's happened to yours?
Alex - sensational paintwork as always.
Klutz - what's happened to yours?
klutz_100
12-12-2007, 09:54 PM
We should re-name this thread "166MM Cut and Paste" ;)
The hood seam looks terrific Gio - nice job! :thumbsup:
Klutz - what's happened to yours?
It turned into a DBR9 :D
The hood seam looks terrific Gio - nice job! :thumbsup:
Klutz - what's happened to yours?
It turned into a DBR9 :D
gionc
12-13-2007, 04:53 PM
Hinges!!!!
Like Alex said rear cowl has a strange 3d shape, not easy to be hinged. I tried some hinge diagrams: my goal was to obtain some space from the panel's edge to the body when the hood is opened, to preserve finishing, it's not so good to see your superb finishing scratched by the cowl...
the diagram, after some attempts I found a good solution:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/166hinges.jpg
and I done ;)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6083.jpg
Like you'll see above there's some air from the opened hood and the body, at last hinges may touch the black gasket (ever if I play too much: I never thought that do a die-cast would be so fun ROFL)
And since they're working ... closed ;)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6085.jpg
Next step same work in the engine hood: no problems with geometry there: it's almost flat but since I modified it I have very close room to do it... almost nothing... we'll see...
can't wait to try those Blue TdF
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6084.jpg
Like Alex said rear cowl has a strange 3d shape, not easy to be hinged. I tried some hinge diagrams: my goal was to obtain some space from the panel's edge to the body when the hood is opened, to preserve finishing, it's not so good to see your superb finishing scratched by the cowl...
the diagram, after some attempts I found a good solution:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/166hinges.jpg
and I done ;)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6083.jpg
Like you'll see above there's some air from the opened hood and the body, at last hinges may touch the black gasket (ever if I play too much: I never thought that do a die-cast would be so fun ROFL)
And since they're working ... closed ;)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6085.jpg
Next step same work in the engine hood: no problems with geometry there: it's almost flat but since I modified it I have very close room to do it... almost nothing... we'll see...
can't wait to try those Blue TdF
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6084.jpg
360spider
12-13-2007, 11:18 PM
Nice!
mrawl
12-14-2007, 01:33 AM
Looking excellent, love the hood.
klutz_100
12-14-2007, 01:55 AM
Nice and simple process Gio! :thumbsup:
I checked the English on the instructions for you :D ;)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/destructions.jpg
I checked the English on the instructions for you :D ;)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/destructions.jpg
360spider
12-14-2007, 07:50 AM
Lol!
MPWR
12-14-2007, 08:01 AM
Obviously, he's had recent experience annotating Gio's diagrams. :grinyes:
Decs0105
12-14-2007, 08:44 AM
lol finally a good explanation of scratchbuilding hinges :grinno:
sjelic
12-14-2007, 08:44 AM
Thank you Steve for explanation, I was a bit lost, now it is all clear to me :D
Gio I have an idea, why wouldn't you put a spring to make it shut nice and soft?
:D
Gio I have an idea, why wouldn't you put a spring to make it shut nice and soft?
:D
gionc
12-20-2007, 08:26 AM
Hi guys: time for another diagram: I leave some spare room for Stevensky's types (plizzz place some Amarone Valpollicella insthead the Remole this time, buddy, just to change taste :D )
I tried to study my car hinges: looks like my model has only 1 each side, contra Alex and Steve's jewel has 2 x side. I tried in the diagram to push those hinges to work but I wasn't able. The goal is cover up any hinge with the ulphostery (putty) but since I have different thickness I need a bigger hinge, more I need to mill down the body to pull the hinge fulcrum as external I can (I guess my body shell when the hinge is glued is now 0.000000X mm: it's just transparent counter-light). So next step would be internal ulphostery+carpeting to cover up hinges better I can: something more than the 1/1 stuff would be noticeable, I know.
car hinge system:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/hingedetail.jpg
It's almost impossible to work with. Following the diagram: you'll see 4 fulcrum position, the nr. 4 seems the best option:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/166-hingeporte.jpg
(ok you'll understand nothing but this time I done coloured LOL)
Hinged doors:
First I cut out doors: they looks (better they aren't LOL) not symmetrical to me so I glued with tack and sand together, than I filled with 2k poly putty the body and sanded, tried, resanded, checked, resanded, reputted... you know... this for several times until I got a correct gap for paint+clear application.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6087.jpg
Here you'll see that those part, dashboard mount, is completely wrong.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6086.jpg
Than I created the door's surround, applying 2k putty inside with door mounted (obviously with a release agent...) than sanded, reputted etch... until was good enough, I done also a styrene door's ulphostery:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6101.jpg
And finally I hinged those:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6105.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6103.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6107.jpg
Now is full open(able):
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6112.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6114.jpg
Thanks to Alex to show the way, I do ever a bit customized but at last he teach.
Now I'm working in those part: who own the kit may imagine how much iron powder I'll have in the floor.... (and over all other WIPs around...)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6117.jpg
I tried to study my car hinges: looks like my model has only 1 each side, contra Alex and Steve's jewel has 2 x side. I tried in the diagram to push those hinges to work but I wasn't able. The goal is cover up any hinge with the ulphostery (putty) but since I have different thickness I need a bigger hinge, more I need to mill down the body to pull the hinge fulcrum as external I can (I guess my body shell when the hinge is glued is now 0.000000X mm: it's just transparent counter-light). So next step would be internal ulphostery+carpeting to cover up hinges better I can: something more than the 1/1 stuff would be noticeable, I know.
car hinge system:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/hingedetail.jpg
It's almost impossible to work with. Following the diagram: you'll see 4 fulcrum position, the nr. 4 seems the best option:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/166-hingeporte.jpg
(ok you'll understand nothing but this time I done coloured LOL)
Hinged doors:
First I cut out doors: they looks (better they aren't LOL) not symmetrical to me so I glued with tack and sand together, than I filled with 2k poly putty the body and sanded, tried, resanded, checked, resanded, reputted... you know... this for several times until I got a correct gap for paint+clear application.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6087.jpg
Here you'll see that those part, dashboard mount, is completely wrong.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6086.jpg
Than I created the door's surround, applying 2k putty inside with door mounted (obviously with a release agent...) than sanded, reputted etch... until was good enough, I done also a styrene door's ulphostery:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6101.jpg
And finally I hinged those:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6105.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6103.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6107.jpg
Now is full open(able):
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6112.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6114.jpg
Thanks to Alex to show the way, I do ever a bit customized but at last he teach.
Now I'm working in those part: who own the kit may imagine how much iron powder I'll have in the floor.... (and over all other WIPs around...)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/166MM/CIMG6117.jpg
mopar=power
12-20-2007, 08:52 AM
WOW I have missed this thread you guys are doing an EXCELLENT job keep up the great work
klutz_100
12-20-2007, 09:26 AM
godfather23
12-20-2007, 10:09 AM
WOW I have missed this thread you guys are doing an EXCELLENT job keep up the great work
How can you miss this one? :runaround:
You guys are hilarious. So much fun just for hinges. unbelieveable!
How can you miss this one? :runaround:
You guys are hilarious. So much fun just for hinges. unbelieveable!
The Sheene Machine
12-20-2007, 01:49 PM
Oh man that made me laugh. Great work guys. :grinno: :iceslolan
quadzero
12-20-2007, 01:59 PM
Oh man that made me laugh. Great work guys. :grinno: :iceslolan
Not only top notch modelling but extremely entertaining as well. Great ad, Steve.:grinyes:
Not only top notch modelling but extremely entertaining as well. Great ad, Steve.:grinyes:
Decs0105
12-20-2007, 02:25 PM
I love this thread, great work + a lot of fun... that's what it should be!!!
scrappyj1
12-20-2007, 07:03 PM
Yup! Lot's to learn on this thread!!! Can't wait to see more...
360spider
12-20-2007, 10:43 PM
Good stuff Steven. Great job Gio, very well thought out.
sjelic
12-21-2007, 01:25 AM
Guys, can you make me a plan for a time machine or money machine or... I don't know but I am sure it will work :D
Major chopping job Gio, MFH watch out for the blade :D
Major chopping job Gio, MFH watch out for the blade :D
kanedge
12-23-2007, 05:53 AM
Great job on the hinges, what other surprises are there?
360spider
09-30-2010, 03:36 PM
The time has come to bring this old build thread back from the dead. I really hope that by doing this I will motivate my fellow builders Steven and Gio to get off their butts and start cranking on this project (hey, it has been few years already, come on!) :-)
I decided to make removable wheels on this model, so I could show suspension detail after model is assembled. Since I have already used similar technique on my 250 GTO build, it was relatively simple procedure- first I drilled hubs with suitable diameter bit all the way though.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new01.jpg
Few years ago I picked up several sets of tiny screws and nuts at one of my local hobby stores, not even knowing what I will be using them for. These came really handy for mounting wheels! I’m not quite sure if this manufacturer is still in business, but you could probably pick similar stuff from Scale Hardware.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new02.jpg
Once the hubs were drilled, I also drilled out Tecnomodel knock offs (they are slightly bigger and better shape than MFH, they are also polished and don’t look like pitted blobs of crap) and implanted tiny nuts in there.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new03.jpg
Then did the same for 3 more wheels, and I had hubs ready to be put in the wheels and a system in place to take them on ad off using knock-off nut, just like on the real thing.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new04.jpg
Wheels were put together, I also added some scratchbuilt air-valves, weights (didn’t balance though :-) ) and release handle for the spare wheel.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new05.jpg
Tires were molded slightly off (outside of the tire was not perfectly aligned with the inside of the tire), and that made scuffing the tires a bit problematic, but I did it anyway and it turned out ok, though not perfect.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new06.jpg
Gas tank was one of these parts that you look at and go – what the hell were they thinking! It is made out of two heavy, pitted, rough pieces of metal that don’t even fit together well! It needed work! I sanded the pieces, glued them together, cleaned the surface, and then re-drilled entire tank for the rivets. Rivets were replicated by inserting a piece of hollow core solder into the holes, then cutting it and sanding it almost flush. Since the solder was hollow core, it created a nice dot on top of the rivet, making it look like the real thing. Of course this detail will be lost under primer and paint, but neat nonetheless.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new07.jpg
Rear axle was another one of those parts. I did the same thing to it as well – sanded all the detail off, cleaned it, and then re-did the nuts and re-scribed all the ribs, etc.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new08.jpg
Frame was a nightmare. I’m sure Steven and Gio agree with me. It took me literally 2 days to make it more of less acceptable for primer and paint. I have used two 12-packs of flexi-files and hours with needle files to clean this thing!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new09.jpg
Engine block, head, cam covers, sump, gearbox, and bell housing were cleaned, put together, and painted with MM steel buffing metalizer, then lightly buffed to bring out shine and scrape some of the paint off the edges. Once black-washed, this should bring out some contrast and detail to the engine.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new10.jpg
Then I installed my threaded bolts in the front and rear axles. I just drilled holes in the front hubs and glued the bolts in. Rear axle was too thin to do this, so I just cut off the head of the bolt, and glued it in that way. Good thing they were long enough.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new11.jpg
Once this was all done, I test fit everything on the frame, making sure that the length of the axles was correct and engine was aligning properly with the frame. Had to bend a few things here and there.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new12.jpg
Leaf springs were put together (neat construction I must add).
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new13.jpg
Then leaf springs and exhaust manifolds were painted with mix of burnt iron, and steel metalizers.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new14.jpg
To change the subject a bit, I decided to put together front grille. It turned out to be much harder than I thought! Pieces kept falling apart until I decided to mount this entire assembly on a piece of playdoh while putting it together. Worked great, but still need to clean some of that playdoh from the slats!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new15.jpg
Brake drums were also cleaned, put together and painted. I also painted gas tank and then everything was lightly buffed (and then black-washed, but not on this pic).
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new16.jpg
Radiator and oil cooler were put together and pre-drilled for hoses. The rads, frame and suspension components were painted with various shades of black.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new17.jpg
I’m not going to go into detail, but almost all small engine components were awful quality castings. Some were not even worth cleaning IMO! I decided that since most of them will be hidden from view, to clean them the best I can and just live with it. One thing I couldn’t live with though were spark plug wires holsters, as they were too small to drill and put six wires into each. I decided to discard them and build my own instead. I used suitable diameter aluminum tubing, flared one end a little bit, and tapered the other end by sanding it with a file.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new18.jpg
Then the tubes were flattened with a hammer, wired, and sanded smooth. Then I cleaned carbs, lightly painted them with Alclad pale gold, then followed with black wash. Then installed fuel lines and plumbed fuel hoses. Since air scoop was rather small, I decided against drilling it out, and just cleaned and sanded it smooth.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new19.jpg
Then all this long list of parts was put together! Plugs wires were glued into the head, carbs installed, front suspension assembled, radiators installed and plumbed, oil lines connected, fuel lines connected, then I also added clamps, brake lines etc, and finally engine bay started to take shape.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new20.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new22.jpg
Rear suspension was also put together, leaf springs installed, and axles aligned.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new21.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new23.jpg
Then I started to add more detail to the chassis. I installed and plumbed fuel tank, brakes and wheels, spare wheel and driveshaft.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new24.jpg
Pedal block was assembled and installed on the chassis.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new25.jpg
Spare wheel mounted on the chassis.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new26.jpg
Fuel tank was completely plumbed, with fuel lines going from the tank main puck-up point back to the engine (through coarse fuel filter) and to the carbs (fine fuel filter on the line) and back to the tank. Connectors were made from solder, lines from various wires; I also used Sakatsu fittings and bolts from Scale Hardware.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new27.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new28.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new29.jpg
Up front, all lines were connected to their respective units, and routed on the chassis. I also attached exhausts, weathered chassis components here and there with various washes and dry-brushed them with metalizers. LeMans winning car should be dirty, even though it is not my usual building style!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new30.jpg
Finally, chassis was test fitted to the body to determine clearances and location and placement of the exhausts.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new31.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new32.jpg
Being able to take the wheel off will be nice after the model is completed.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new33.jpg
Finally, the chassis was completed, so I took few pics of it before it will be obscured by interior and other components.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new34.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new35.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new36.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new37.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new38.jpg
Couple more picks of completed chassis underside.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new39.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new40.jpg
So, this is where I am currently, but hopefully this will be enough to motivate Stevenski and Gio to pick up their pace. More soon!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new41.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new42.jpg
PS: I’m back :-)
I decided to make removable wheels on this model, so I could show suspension detail after model is assembled. Since I have already used similar technique on my 250 GTO build, it was relatively simple procedure- first I drilled hubs with suitable diameter bit all the way though.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new01.jpg
Few years ago I picked up several sets of tiny screws and nuts at one of my local hobby stores, not even knowing what I will be using them for. These came really handy for mounting wheels! I’m not quite sure if this manufacturer is still in business, but you could probably pick similar stuff from Scale Hardware.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new02.jpg
Once the hubs were drilled, I also drilled out Tecnomodel knock offs (they are slightly bigger and better shape than MFH, they are also polished and don’t look like pitted blobs of crap) and implanted tiny nuts in there.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new03.jpg
Then did the same for 3 more wheels, and I had hubs ready to be put in the wheels and a system in place to take them on ad off using knock-off nut, just like on the real thing.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new04.jpg
Wheels were put together, I also added some scratchbuilt air-valves, weights (didn’t balance though :-) ) and release handle for the spare wheel.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new05.jpg
Tires were molded slightly off (outside of the tire was not perfectly aligned with the inside of the tire), and that made scuffing the tires a bit problematic, but I did it anyway and it turned out ok, though not perfect.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new06.jpg
Gas tank was one of these parts that you look at and go – what the hell were they thinking! It is made out of two heavy, pitted, rough pieces of metal that don’t even fit together well! It needed work! I sanded the pieces, glued them together, cleaned the surface, and then re-drilled entire tank for the rivets. Rivets were replicated by inserting a piece of hollow core solder into the holes, then cutting it and sanding it almost flush. Since the solder was hollow core, it created a nice dot on top of the rivet, making it look like the real thing. Of course this detail will be lost under primer and paint, but neat nonetheless.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new07.jpg
Rear axle was another one of those parts. I did the same thing to it as well – sanded all the detail off, cleaned it, and then re-did the nuts and re-scribed all the ribs, etc.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new08.jpg
Frame was a nightmare. I’m sure Steven and Gio agree with me. It took me literally 2 days to make it more of less acceptable for primer and paint. I have used two 12-packs of flexi-files and hours with needle files to clean this thing!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new09.jpg
Engine block, head, cam covers, sump, gearbox, and bell housing were cleaned, put together, and painted with MM steel buffing metalizer, then lightly buffed to bring out shine and scrape some of the paint off the edges. Once black-washed, this should bring out some contrast and detail to the engine.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new10.jpg
Then I installed my threaded bolts in the front and rear axles. I just drilled holes in the front hubs and glued the bolts in. Rear axle was too thin to do this, so I just cut off the head of the bolt, and glued it in that way. Good thing they were long enough.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new11.jpg
Once this was all done, I test fit everything on the frame, making sure that the length of the axles was correct and engine was aligning properly with the frame. Had to bend a few things here and there.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new12.jpg
Leaf springs were put together (neat construction I must add).
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new13.jpg
Then leaf springs and exhaust manifolds were painted with mix of burnt iron, and steel metalizers.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new14.jpg
To change the subject a bit, I decided to put together front grille. It turned out to be much harder than I thought! Pieces kept falling apart until I decided to mount this entire assembly on a piece of playdoh while putting it together. Worked great, but still need to clean some of that playdoh from the slats!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new15.jpg
Brake drums were also cleaned, put together and painted. I also painted gas tank and then everything was lightly buffed (and then black-washed, but not on this pic).
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new16.jpg
Radiator and oil cooler were put together and pre-drilled for hoses. The rads, frame and suspension components were painted with various shades of black.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new17.jpg
I’m not going to go into detail, but almost all small engine components were awful quality castings. Some were not even worth cleaning IMO! I decided that since most of them will be hidden from view, to clean them the best I can and just live with it. One thing I couldn’t live with though were spark plug wires holsters, as they were too small to drill and put six wires into each. I decided to discard them and build my own instead. I used suitable diameter aluminum tubing, flared one end a little bit, and tapered the other end by sanding it with a file.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new18.jpg
Then the tubes were flattened with a hammer, wired, and sanded smooth. Then I cleaned carbs, lightly painted them with Alclad pale gold, then followed with black wash. Then installed fuel lines and plumbed fuel hoses. Since air scoop was rather small, I decided against drilling it out, and just cleaned and sanded it smooth.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new19.jpg
Then all this long list of parts was put together! Plugs wires were glued into the head, carbs installed, front suspension assembled, radiators installed and plumbed, oil lines connected, fuel lines connected, then I also added clamps, brake lines etc, and finally engine bay started to take shape.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new20.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new22.jpg
Rear suspension was also put together, leaf springs installed, and axles aligned.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new21.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new23.jpg
Then I started to add more detail to the chassis. I installed and plumbed fuel tank, brakes and wheels, spare wheel and driveshaft.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new24.jpg
Pedal block was assembled and installed on the chassis.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new25.jpg
Spare wheel mounted on the chassis.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new26.jpg
Fuel tank was completely plumbed, with fuel lines going from the tank main puck-up point back to the engine (through coarse fuel filter) and to the carbs (fine fuel filter on the line) and back to the tank. Connectors were made from solder, lines from various wires; I also used Sakatsu fittings and bolts from Scale Hardware.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new27.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new28.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new29.jpg
Up front, all lines were connected to their respective units, and routed on the chassis. I also attached exhausts, weathered chassis components here and there with various washes and dry-brushed them with metalizers. LeMans winning car should be dirty, even though it is not my usual building style!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new30.jpg
Finally, chassis was test fitted to the body to determine clearances and location and placement of the exhausts.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new31.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new32.jpg
Being able to take the wheel off will be nice after the model is completed.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new33.jpg
Finally, the chassis was completed, so I took few pics of it before it will be obscured by interior and other components.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new34.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new35.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new36.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new37.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new38.jpg
Couple more picks of completed chassis underside.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new39.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new40.jpg
So, this is where I am currently, but hopefully this will be enough to motivate Stevenski and Gio to pick up their pace. More soon!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new41.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166new42.jpg
PS: I’m back :-)
BVC500
09-30-2010, 03:52 PM
Great update! And finally!
KevHw
09-30-2010, 03:57 PM
Holy cow that's amazing! It's fantastic to follow this along and see such clean and detailed modelling, along with great progress photos.
da_ashman
09-30-2010, 06:32 PM
Stunning Work!!! Simply amazing!!! Cant wait to see more!!
quadzero
09-30-2010, 08:07 PM
What an amazing update, I completely enjoyed myself looking at your workmanship. That beautiful chassis and engine doesnt even need a body on it and still its a masterpiece. I really like the very realistic leaf springs.
agamo
09-30-2010, 09:59 PM
Awesome returning!!!
I'm glad to see yo back, hope to see soon Gio and Stevensky too!
I'm glad to see yo back, hope to see soon Gio and Stevensky too!
CrateCruncher
09-30-2010, 10:14 PM
Hey, Alex is back in the studio! I love that rolling chassis. This post might just get a lot of people off their be-hinds (me).
gionc
10-01-2010, 01:28 AM
Alex: it turn out simply superb! And motivating also :D
klutz_100
10-01-2010, 02:21 AM
I know when we said we'd try and finish this year, I didn't think you were serious!! :rofl:
Loving all the details you've added. Looks super!
Now it's Gio's turn to update :D:D
Loving all the details you've added. Looks super!
Now it's Gio's turn to update :D:D
LeeABC
10-01-2010, 02:41 AM
Very, Very Nice Alex. Some beautiful details, keep at it.
Cheers,
Lee
Cheers,
Lee
360spider
10-01-2010, 09:51 AM
Thanks everyone!
Alex: it turn out simply superb! And motivating also :biggrin:
I was hoping so!
I know when we said we'd try and finish this year, I didn't think you were serious!! :rofl:
Geez, what do I need to do for people to start taking me seriously? :-) j/k
Now it's Gio's turn to update :biggrin::biggrin:
Yeah, that's the spirit! :iceslolan
Alex: it turn out simply superb! And motivating also :biggrin:
I was hoping so!
I know when we said we'd try and finish this year, I didn't think you were serious!! :rofl:
Geez, what do I need to do for people to start taking me seriously? :-) j/k
Now it's Gio's turn to update :biggrin::biggrin:
Yeah, that's the spirit! :iceslolan
endac
10-01-2010, 11:39 AM
It really is breathtaking just how amazing it looks
MidMazar
10-01-2010, 11:42 AM
Wow, i can't believe this thread is three years old, seems like this it was just last week. Either way, the detail is amazing. Proper entrance back from a slump!!
360spider
10-08-2010, 11:22 AM
After completing the chassis, I decided to move on to the interior. Interior parts were the worst out of all the parts in the kit, simply because they were really rough, and needed lots of cleanup. Rear bulkhead was really awkward to work with – I glued it to the floor to test fit and adjust parts to the body, but even with extra strength super-glue, it was constantly breaking off. So….I soldered it to the floor. Problem solved.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-01.jpg
After EXTENSIVE cleanup of all the parts, they were primed, and painted. You can imagine how much work went into making parts from the first photo to look like these:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-02.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-03.jpg
Second biggest problem of the kit was the seats. They were totally wrong. New seats were made out of Milliput putty, and once putty cured, sculpted with knives and carving tools into shape. Then I added some piping (thin wire), painted them (I decided to replicate the seats as they were on a restored car, since this is the only reference I could find. Original seats were corduroy, but there are no pics of them), and added lap belts.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-04.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-05.jpg
Dashboard was assembled, and few scratchbuilt things like switches and pulls were added. I also made shifter from scratch, as the one provided in the kit was wrong. Boot was made from real leather (note the tie down at the top), and knob from sheet styrene. Shifter rod is glued to the top of the boot, then bent at an angle, but not glued to the base, which allows it to move freely to simulate working shifting. Steering wheel was assembled and detail-painted, and topped with self-adhesive Cavallino.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-06.jpg
Engine bay was put together, and I added few details and wires here and there.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-07.jpg
The chassis was put together, and carefully test-fitted to the body – this is where few adjustments were needed. First of all (as I measured) right side of the body is shorter than the left! (maybe just my copy). That resulted in front wheel well misaligned related to the chassis, and right front wheel rubbing on the fender. Obviously, that looked totally wrong! Had to bend front suspension here and there, adjust the chassis, and doo all that fun stuff that you so hard try to avoid to do on a completed chassis. Fun fun fun.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-08.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-09.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-10.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-11.jpg
Finally, few bits and pieces were put together, windshields, headlights and taillights, trunk lid, door straps were made out of leather, etc.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-12.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-13.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-14.jpg
And then everything was put together. Luckily, there were no problems with the final assembly. While not totally correct, I think the model turned out rather nice. More pix soon in the completed section! Gio, Steven, your turn now!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/fin14.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/det01.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/det02.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/det03.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/det04.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/base01.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/fin01.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/fin03.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/fin11.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-01.jpg
After EXTENSIVE cleanup of all the parts, they were primed, and painted. You can imagine how much work went into making parts from the first photo to look like these:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-02.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-03.jpg
Second biggest problem of the kit was the seats. They were totally wrong. New seats were made out of Milliput putty, and once putty cured, sculpted with knives and carving tools into shape. Then I added some piping (thin wire), painted them (I decided to replicate the seats as they were on a restored car, since this is the only reference I could find. Original seats were corduroy, but there are no pics of them), and added lap belts.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-04.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-05.jpg
Dashboard was assembled, and few scratchbuilt things like switches and pulls were added. I also made shifter from scratch, as the one provided in the kit was wrong. Boot was made from real leather (note the tie down at the top), and knob from sheet styrene. Shifter rod is glued to the top of the boot, then bent at an angle, but not glued to the base, which allows it to move freely to simulate working shifting. Steering wheel was assembled and detail-painted, and topped with self-adhesive Cavallino.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-06.jpg
Engine bay was put together, and I added few details and wires here and there.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-07.jpg
The chassis was put together, and carefully test-fitted to the body – this is where few adjustments were needed. First of all (as I measured) right side of the body is shorter than the left! (maybe just my copy). That resulted in front wheel well misaligned related to the chassis, and right front wheel rubbing on the fender. Obviously, that looked totally wrong! Had to bend front suspension here and there, adjust the chassis, and doo all that fun stuff that you so hard try to avoid to do on a completed chassis. Fun fun fun.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-08.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-09.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-10.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-11.jpg
Finally, few bits and pieces were put together, windshields, headlights and taillights, trunk lid, door straps were made out of leather, etc.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-12.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-13.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/166-14.jpg
And then everything was put together. Luckily, there were no problems with the final assembly. While not totally correct, I think the model turned out rather nice. More pix soon in the completed section! Gio, Steven, your turn now!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/fin14.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/det01.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/det02.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/det03.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/det04.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/base01.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/fin01.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/fin03.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/jter/MFH%20166MM/fin11.jpg
endac
10-08-2010, 01:01 PM
Its hard to believe those are the same parts. The finished product looks phenomenal
250 Testa Rossa
10-08-2010, 05:29 PM
Alex, I have never seen an MFH kit like this. It looks as superb as it gets.
Scalemodelfanatic
10-08-2010, 07:56 PM
Now this model show the craftmanship,dedication and effort to turn it into a masterpiece, simply a stunning and beautiful model....as is usual from your worktable...BRAVO!!!!
CrateCruncher
10-08-2010, 09:18 PM
Very nice model. Those seats are a HUGE improvement!
360spider
10-09-2010, 09:29 AM
Thanks guys!
jano11
10-09-2010, 11:51 AM
:eek: Breathtaking model!
gionc
06-22-2023, 11:19 AM
Hi there! Looks like after all these 16 years we have something to show!!! Close to finish!!! I changed my plans and I'm doing the red #22 also
https://scontent.fqpa3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/322395088_1281071859123696_9119218096523295591_n.j pg?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=YK4LHth4qFsAX9mR3WF&_nc_ht=scontent.fqpa3-1.fna&oh=00_AfDBdD5JwI9UG_iH6A-hzTilGfyI5Au7Yz8A1ky2NrrlUQ&oe=6498C45F
https://scontent.fqpa3-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/322387294_5974379829295858_2871635354284592702_n.j pg?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=107&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=BSlEvE_h1XcAX_CeSsr&_nc_ht=scontent.fqpa3-2.fna&oh=00_AfAd2E6YQJpoZfusMeTotPkULSKm7DIve5xKohcULjSC IA&oe=6499E420
https://scontent.fqpa3-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/322491011_942501363388295_9062455902309891996_n.jp g?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=100&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=G7Ui883pwH0AX9m9pSA&_nc_ht=scontent.fqpa3-2.fna&oh=00_AfDcFgdHbUoTMZqZkQdy8gFSQSSfgZgfMB25GeqOGkk3 cQ&oe=6499E5EC
https://scontent.fqpa3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/321974776_703945424728255_4903133436305133792_n.jp g?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=7TscA6d1JDMAX_eJr1g&_nc_ht=scontent.fqpa3-1.fna&oh=00_AfAE-GUUys0E2Lv9Kj1KQdPnyVP64ZhpE5TYJVDbyDpKjQ&oe=649919E8
https://scontent.fqpa3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/323444129_908121353517785_3579872585665780121_n.jp g?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=109&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=7bZbb8ShcPUAX-ZNjGP&_nc_ht=scontent.fqpa3-1.fna&oh=00_AfDv5CKBbGXhkWYZxfzzY47TcxdykXiSCntgc7M7464h OQ&oe=6499D2F7
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gionc
06-22-2023, 11:21 AM
Almost ready, few details left! I'm sorry with other 24 cylinders for my delay :), but better late than nothing :)
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MPWR
06-22-2023, 05:05 PM
Hey, wow- it's Gio!
I love me a good resurrection of an old thread.
Terrific work, my friend.
I love me a good resurrection of an old thread.
Terrific work, my friend.
robrex
06-22-2023, 05:45 PM
Hey Gio!
The paint looks gorgeous and those seats! Awesome work my friend does that mean I need to post something now as well ? 🤣😂
The paint looks gorgeous and those seats! Awesome work my friend does that mean I need to post something now as well ? 🤣😂
quadzero
06-22-2023, 10:04 PM
Hey Gio, my old friend. I see the doctor is still creating masterpieces. The works you create here are among the best I have ever seen on this forum. Attention to detail is outstanding. The seats are extremely convincing. Beautiful work as always.
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