Electrical Problem

Hey smart folks:

Earlier this week I thought my fans (front and rear HVAC) - van has daytime running lights, seem to be running slower than normal. Windshield wipers too but I excused this as my imagination. Then I swore the dashlights were dimmer. This evening while driving home it seemed like I had very little electrical power. I shut off my fans, stereo, etc and drove home with only the DRL ~ 5 miles. When I turned on my turn indicators my odometer flashed. My ABS light came on and I noticed today that my crusie does not work, perhaps coincidentaly- I haven't tried cruise in ages. I do feel that there was a definite electrical problem. It has been cold where I live for the past month (-20C at night) but my battery is only about 6 months old.

I assume it is either my battery or alternator. Although wiring would be cheaper to self repair I almost hope it's the alternator or battery due to the ease of repair. I seem to be of the belief that my battery is fine - although leaving it partially charged out in the cold tonight might kill it too.

I measured the running voltage at about 11.8 V. It didn't seem to drop too much after shutting off the van. I then connected my Wife's system via booster cables to my van and while her car was running it was charging my battery - van not running. This seemed to be able to put about 12.8 volts. I disconnected my van and the voltage of her running charge system jumped to about 14v. It seemed like my van was loading it down quite a bit. This may have been due to my battery being in a very low charge state from not getting enough energy the last few days.

I am going to take my alternator to have it tested and I will bring the battery too just in case. I think the regulator is on the back of the alternator. Are there any regulator tests (such as continuity) that I could perform to rule it out?

Are there any relays or fuse links or fuses I should consider?

By the way do the 99s normally have a dashboard ammeter? or dummy light? No warning light ever came on.

Thanks

It may be your alt.. But When my battery was starting to go. My electrics started to act up so check both out first..This was the OE motorcraft batt from the 2001. so 6 yrs was not bad..

Wow it is amazing what one can write when it is late. I edited my original post to make it more clear.

GaryNC - I haven't totally ruled out my battery yet. My original lasted 7 years but this battery is relatively new.

I have an alternator fuse "T" in the engine compartment power distribution box.
I don't know that it would be called the same on yours, but they likely still have the fuse.

The voltage that you are talking about, as you know is too low.
If you have a battery charger, you might try charging the battery.
Taking the alternator to be tested (free) is a great idea, and also check the fuse.
If the battery will not charge up, then, yes, it could be defective.....sadly at the young age it is.
AutoZone Duralast Gold got good reviews, and is what I have.
I have the highest cold cranking amps that I could get.....they listed it as "optional" on their system for my '96 windstar.

Thanks for the responses. I bought a charger to charge my battery to see what happens. I will then take it back to where I bought it if it is bad as it has a 3 year replacement warranty. I too bought an optional battery.

If not I will pull out the alternator and have it tested.

I will also check the fuses. It has turned out to be a nice day here in Toronto so I have a great excuse to be outside.

BTW Wiswind congrats on becoming the forum moderator.

By all means collect on the waranty for your battery.
Also make sure to check on that fuse.
I got bit by that fuse, replaced a melted alternator and then replaced the battery........and ended up that the battery was most likely good, was the fuse.


OFF TOPIC:
It may be nice right now.....but you might check the weather and see if the big storm that is hitting Wisconsin is going to be tracking north to you.
For us, the biggest storm this winter....in fact for a few years.

Thanks for the congrats
It is an honor

Yeah the storm is due to hit us Sunday night. Oh well I can sense that winter is almost done.

I do not seem to have that fuse. My Chilton's shows it prior to 99 but I don't always trust Chiltons. There is a test in the Chiltons that involves back-measuring the voltages at the alternator with the engine on/not running. I think the terminals are labelled I, A, and B+. For some reason I seem to get a higher voltager on the I. I get about 10 where Chilton's says it should be 1 V. Again I am not sure I trust it. I think the measurements are done at the output of the regulator that is attached to the alternator.

I have removed the battery and have it on a bench charging. It seems to be taking a long time to charge. I will let it sit overnight and see if it holds the charge. Funny thing is though it cranks the engine effortlessly. That is why I did not originally suspect the battery.

BTW I checked my receipt for the battery. I bought it Nov 20, 2006. It is only 3 months old.

What an ordeal.................but I think I have solved it.

Last night I charged the battery via a battery charger on the bench.
At about 11:00 it finished charging. I left it all night sitting idle. This morning it still was full of charge so it seems that it can hold the charge.

I then took my alternator and battery to a Canadian Tire. They tested my battery and it passed but they could not test my alternator because they did not have the adapter to compesate for the mounting being 90 degress form the normal way of mounting alternators.

I then went to a Parts Source and he had the same problem. He then called two other Parts Sources and none of them had the adapter. He was then willing to sell me a re-built and if it did not solve my problem he would take it back. Then he grabbed one off the shelf and it had a noisy bearing (noted by a hand spin). He had no more.

I then went back to Canadian Tire (not much choice in Ontario on a Sunday). I bought a new alternator ($320 ouch vs $290 for a re-built).

I checked for the seperntine belt tensioner tool and it was $70. I did not buy it. I then went to a discount store and they sell them for $18 but were out of stock. This was not my lucky day.

I cannot believe that the tensioner is in a position that cannot be reached. In any event I read some posts on the tensioner and one reponse from 12ounce stated that he never uses any tools for putting the belt on. I then thought that if 12 ounce said he could do it then it must be be possible.

I installed the alternator and managed to pull the belt with all my might and get it over the pulley.

I re-installed everything and started her up. I now have 14.4 volts while running which seems good to me.

It took me about 3-4 hours running around and about 15 minutes to take out the alternator and battery and re-installl them.

But it worked.

That is great!
Good that you are back up and running.
Yes, running around to parts stores can be very frustrating.
I try shopping online first, which would not have helped you in your case as the store that had one in stock, would still have you visit (even if you had called first) as they did not know it was bad.
A couple stores will indicate if the part is in stock, and which store.
AutoZone indicates if the part is carried in stores or if it is only available online or by special order, but they don't indicate if it is in stock.

I thought I would close out this thread by providing a summary. Perhaps this might help someone in the future:

-On Monday or Tuesday I got the feeling that my dashboard lights were dimmer than normal and my HVAC fans seemed to be running slower than normal.

-On Friday while driving home My ABS light came on, my lights were still dim and when I used my turn indicator my odometer flashed with the indicator. I turned on my interior lights and they would not go out - they were dim

-My cruise was not working but I don't it was related - still doesn't work.

-My battery voltage was lower than normal (about 11.6 V) but it still had enough current to start my van every day.

-While running I measured the voltage at 11.8V.

-I charged the battery out of the car and proved it could accept and hold a charge.

-This left either a fuse, fuse link ,wiring or alternator.

- It was the alternator.

If I had the time I would have simply bought a rebuild kit including the regualtor.