intermittent ABS warning light 2000

I decided to tackle my ABS warning light issue because it's been on and off intermittently since I bought it.

I first suspected bad wheel sensor(s) per many previous threads. I borrowed a scantool with the ABS diagnosis and found that all 4 wheel sensors are reading same speed value, but they indicate wheel speed of about half of the speedometer reading. Another thing I noticed was that the ABS main power relay output is "1bit" when the ABS warning light is OFF and is "0bit" when it is ON.

So it seems like the ABS power relay is bad. My alldata manual for this model says that the part number for the relay is FOAZ14N089A but it also says that "the ABS is not equipped with an external ABS Relay. According to wiring diagrams provided by Ford, the function of the ABS relay is incorporated into the ABS module". Does this mean that I have to replace the whole ABS module or HCU just because the relay is bad?

Has any of you encountered this issue? Any idea on why wheel speed is different than speedometer?

thanks for reading

Sorry, I don't have further info. But I also have a 2000 Windstar - and the ABS light came on (for the first time) just the other day. I stopped and re-started the van - and the light went away; hasn't returned since.

But I'm concerned something in the system is marginal and will cause problems soon - so this thread is particularly timely for me, and I hope someone with specific experience chimes in soon.

One question: What diagnostic tool did you use to access the ABS system? I'm familiar with OBDII scanners, as well as older Ford ABS diagnostics that could be read using a jumper wire and voltmeter.

my 2000 LX 3.8 has the ABS light on at times and I haven't been able to isolate the cause. Turning off the engine resets it and then it stays off for days. I would also like to know how you access the diag for wheel speed. :confused:

Watching this thread intently!! :popcorn:

Count me in too...!
I also have a 2000 LX 3.8 that has the ABS light on at times and I too haven't been able to isolate the cause. The ABS switch was leaking and replaced about six months ago, but the ABS light keeps coming on. Same thing as mentioned turning off the engine resets it and then it stays off for days. I too would like to know how you access the diagnostics for the wheel speed.

I borrowed the scantool from my cousin who bought it from Autoenginuity with the Ford expanded package which allows you to access ABS diagnosis. My ABS light is OFF right after the engine starts up but would eventually be ON. Keep me posted if you guys decided to investigate the issue further.

knl25 -

What do you know about the Autoenginuity scanner? I've seen their scanner kits on eBay (a module that goes to a PC USB port; sells for about $200), but - as you noted - it requires an expansion to read ABS codes (I didn't find price info on the expansions).

My cousin bought it on ebay for $200 like you said and the expansion on autoenginuity.com website for about $150, which is basically a code they will email you to activate that function on the software. I don't have any experience with other scantools in fact this is the first time I use a scantool but think it works quite well for what it says. There are literally hundreds off sensor readings and functions you can track in real time. My problem is to interprete the data it gives to arrive at a correct diagnosis.

My cousin bought it on ebay for $200 like you said and the expansion on autoenginuity.com website for about $150, which is basically a code they will email you to activate that function on the software. I don't have any experience with other scantools in fact this is the first time I use a scantool but think it works quite well for what it says. There are literally hundreds off sensor readings and functions you can track in real time. My problem is to interprete the data it gives to arrive at a correct diagnosis.

Is it possible that the 4 wheel speed sensors reading at 1/2 value is the result of a software bug rather than incorrect raw data?

Have allof you ensured that your fluid is topped up?

Before buying expensive tools go around to each sensor and disconnect the harness of the speed sensors at the wheels and check for continuity. My light was on for 2 years until I did this test and found an open circuit at one sensor. $50 bucks later and I have ABS. - needed it a couple of times since too.

My cousin bought it on ebay for $200 like you said and the expansion on autoenginuity.com website for about $150, which is basically a code they will email you to activate that function on the software. I don't have any experience with other scantools in fact this is the first time I use a scantool but think it works quite well for what it says. There are literally hundreds off sensor readings and functions you can track in real time. My problem is to interprete the data it gives to arrive at a correct diagnosis.

Is it possible that the 4 wheel speed sensors reading at 1/2 value is the result of a software bug rather than incorrect raw data?

Have allof you ensured that your fluid is topped up?

Before buying expensive tools go around to each sensor and disconnect the harness of the speed sensors at the wheels and check for continuity. My light was on for 2 years until I did this test and found an open circuit at one sensor. $50 bucks later and I have ABS. - needed it a couple of times since too.

It's certainly possible that the difference in speed is a software bug. Can you explain why the ABS relay state is ON when my ABS is OFF and vice versa? Is this an indication that the relay is bad? I checked the resistance on all wheel sensors and they were around 1.8-1.9 kohms. I don't know if the values are normal but they are surely not open circuit.

i would have to look at a wiring diagram. But my first guess would tell me the relay is not bad. usually if a relay fails, it wont change states at all. If yours is changing, it's probably working. They may be utilizing a normally closed contact and opening it when the relay is "on" to disable the ABS if a problem is detected. (thats my first thought, still haven't gotten the diagrams for the ABS system.)

Are you saying there is a safety mechanism that would switch off the relay if something goes wrong with the ABS system? I have alldatadiy.com subsription and can access the wiring diagrams but can't locate the relay. Maybe I don't know how to read these. If you can tell whether the relay should be off or on at certain state, I can try to post them somewhere.
Thanks!

It turns out the difference in speed between wheel sensors and speedometer signal is due to the scaling in units and in fact its a bug in their software that has MPH and KPH switched.

I still have no clue on why my ABS warning light is on and not sure what to try next.

I have this problem very often...it comes and goes. I know that the reading method for the sensor is the problem. Although my ABS is sometime activated even is not slippery...it's kind of an error in the computer...I wish to know from where is the problem........

been out of the loop for a whole month and came back rushing to check this thread to see if there was an answer or a solution to this pesky problem. Please guys don't let this thread die away.

I also have an ABS light problem with my 2000 Windstar. It has come on & off intermittently for the past couple of years. I haven't worried about it since my mechanic told me my brakes would still work (just not the ABS). The one strange thing is that the light stays off during the cold winter months. But once it starts warming up in the spring the ABS light problem appears again. Any one have an idea what could cause this strange behaviour.

:confused:

I am not positive, but I believe it is your ECU (the electronic control module). I have the same symptoms on my 99--the ABS light rarely comes on in the winter, but almost always comes on when it is hot out.

I bought a new module off of E-Bay, but have not had time to install it yet. it is a PITA job since the module is located underneath the van.

This is happening to my 2000 Windstar also. The way it came on the other night was after turning a slow tight circle in a gas station. I did a sharp u-turn turn to the right around the gas pumps and then turned left sharply and then right again out of the gas station. The ABS light came on, and my dash display said "Check Traction Control." The next day after starting the vehicle, the light was off. My wife usually drives the car, and says she typically sees the light come on after turning in tight circles as I did that night. There would be a big difference in speed of the outer wheel during a tight turn, I wonder if that triggered it. I'll also be watching this thread to see if anyone figures out this problem.

Okay it seems everybody is watching this thread, but except for checking the continuity at all four corners, there does not seem to be a diagnosis for the intermittent ABS light. I asked the Ford dealer about it and they wanted to replace the ECU; but I think they were just guessing. My code reader does not give me any hints as the ABS light is intermittent, and seems to reset whenever the ignition is shut down.

Frostie, did you replace your ECU yet, and how big of a pain was that job??

No, I have not done it yet. I had several other problems come up that I had to deal with first. This van has been the worst vehicle I have ever bought. My current plan is to sell it at the end of the summer.

As for the ECU, you would need to get the van up on ramps to have enough space to work. There are several bolts to remove, which in my case are heavily corroded due to Canadian winters. Someone else on this board described the job as a real knuckle-buster, and I think they are correct. It would be easiest to do this job with the van on a lift.

I have a 2001 Windstar with both the ABS light and red Brake light coming on simultaneously. I keep the brake fluid full and have checked the switch on the master cylinder. I have cleaned all four wheel sensors and checked all for continuity.

I imagine it is the ABS ECU module. I will keep tabs on this thread. It seems that there are a lot of us out there with the same problem.

I have a 2001 Windstar with both the ABS light and red Brake light coming on simultaneously. I keep the brake fluid full and have checked the switch on the master cylinder. I have cleaned all four wheel sensors and checked all for continuity.

I imagine it is the ABS ECU module. I will keep tabs on this thread. It seems that there are a lot of us out there with the same problem.

A word of warning jgattian, as it might be OK (not recommended) to drive around with the yellow ABS light on. But the red Brake Light means there is a serious problem with the brakes and it should be inspected/corrected immediately. It's very unsafe to drive with a brake warning light ON!
Unless you're like me and forget to release the e-brake when pulling off my parking space.

Yes, I'm still watching this thread as well.

My ABS light comes on every once in awhile (approx. once every two weeks or so). Restarting the van clears the light right away, so I doubt I'd be able to get the code read unless I drove around with a reader hooked up to the van all the time.

Hello All - I have a 2000 Windtar and the ABS light has been coming on about a year. Once the vehicle gets above 10 mph the light comes on. I have read that the issue is an extra ground wiring connected to the ABS module. It has two and one of them needs to be removed and capped of. Supposedly Ford has a kit which costs about $10 and includes a wire cap. The guys at the Ford Dealership I visit do not know anything about it.

My suggestion - everyone go visit their local Ford dealership and talk to someone in parts. There should be someone around the country that is familiar with this kit.

If and when you find it, come back and post the Ford Part #.

All Data's wiring diagram shows two grounds - #8 and #24. I might do a little testing. I will let you know if I find something.

I just sold my 99 Windstar 3.8 last month with 111000k The ABS light was on intermittenly for the last 2 years I owned it. I ignored it

I have a 2001 Windstar with both the ABS light and red Brake light coming on simultaneously. I keep the brake fluid full and have checked the switch on the master cylinder. I have cleaned all four wheel sensors and checked all for continuity.

I imagine it is the ABS ECU module. I will keep tabs on this thread. It seems that there are a lot of us out there with the same problem.


I have exactly the same problem on my 2001 Windstar. I did not clean the sensors yet, but the brake fluid is full and I have checked the switch on the master cylinder. I passed inspection in PA with the light on and my mechanic seems to think it's no big deal (even though the red brake light is also on).

I hope somebody has some leads to pursue.

Hi, I just had my left rear sensor replaced today and my repair shop thinks that the bad sensor was shorting things out. So far so good -- the ABS light did not come on nor did the trac action engage. But --- if the ABS light returns and I have problems with the Trac Action, I will have to go to the dealer to have them do the rest since only the dealer can reprogram things. Of course. But it looks like we won't have to go that route. They also replaced rear breaks and did a gravity break flush of the fluid -- the first time ever for the breaks and the car is almost 8 years old and has 79,400 miles on it! I guess that's good! I hope this helps!!!

I've been researching this topic further.

I found a TSB for my 2000 Windstar titled:

EXHIBITING INTERMITTENT ANTI-SKID BRAKE SYSTEM AND / OR RED BRAKE LAMP ON AT TIMES WHILE DRIVING

Bulletin Number: 15682
Sequence Number: 636312
Date: 20020301
Component Name: 036400 SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:ANTILOCK:ABS WARNING LIGHT
Make: FORD
Model: WINDSTAR
Year: 2000

It appears the "Bulletin Number" and the "Sequence Number" are unrelated to Ford's TSB numbering system (the number formats don't match). Also note that I've seen the "Sequence Number" referred to as the "NHTSA ID".

I checked the TSB list for my van on AllData.com: None of the titles of the TSBs listed there match up to the one I want to find.

I looked up the NHTSA number on their web site http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm - but still didn't find a way to get the actual text of the TSB.

So... If I've got the two numbers listed above, how can I found out the contents of the TSB? Has anyone already looked up this TSB?

OK gang, sign me up - I've got a 2000 windpig with the same problem. ABS light comes on and off. Let's keep this alive, it seems to be a widespread problem.

I believe the key to this is getting the contents of the TSB (see my comments 2 messages back). I've spent a fair amount of time in recent days trying to track it down.

It appears there a multiple numbering systems out there - and I have yet to find a real Ford TSB number for this issue (neither of the two numbers I listed are 'standard' Ford TSB numbers).

I've spent time on alldata.com and infotraxx.com (BTW, Infotraxx has simply excellent customer service - I was truly impressed) - but no mention of this particular TSB on either site.

Meanwhile, I've discovered numerous discussions about this problem on many different sites - and none of them seems to result in a conclusive solution (and the dealer always seems to recommend replacing the ABS control unit, for big $$$).

I've seen references to a grounding issue affecting this problem that can be fixed with a kit of some kind - but no specific TSB Ford part number or procedure steps.

There's got to be a real solution out there...

Further update:

I've been spending time with the ABS system on my 2000 LX. And I've seen improvement!

- I removed and cleaned each ABS wheel sensor. All were in good shape; some dirt on each, but not too bad.

- I checked the connector at each ABS wheel sensor, made sure it was clean, and added some fresh dielectric grease. I carefully checked the wires leading to each sensor: No pinched or stretched areas.

- I bled the entire brake system, using the two person "pump-the-pedal" method.

- THE ITEM I THINK MADE THE MOST DIFFERENCE FOR ME: I discovered that the tab locking the connector to the ABS module was loose! This is the module that (for my 2000) is on the bottom of the van, underneath the driver's seat. So I completely removed the connector, carefully cleaned it with a quality contact cleaning spray, and firmly re-seated it.

While it hasn't been long enough to claim victory, I haven't seen the infamous intermittent ABS warning light since I've competed these steps.

I highly recommend checking the connector to the ABS module. You'll need to crawl under the van and remove a plastic shield (4 fasteners). But it's actually pretty easy to do. The locking tab is immediately below the wire bundle that exits the connector. The tab slides toward the rear of the van. The connector is fairly large: It includes about 20 small signal pins, and four larger blades for power. I'm theorizing that this connector sees a lot of vibration, water and dirt - and can benefit from cleaning.

phil-l,

How about an update? I was busy last weekend working on my taurus, and wasn't able to check out my ABS connector. Hopefully you're on to something there.

My ABS system is still behaving. I hope we're on to something here!

I even more firmly believe the connector to the ABS module has been the source of my problems. It appears to be fairly well designed - but I believe the connection can become marginal over time. I'm particularly suspicious of the low-voltage signal portions of the connector (note that the connector includes both small signal "pin" connections and larger power-style "spade" connections). For example, the wheel sensor voltages are pretty small - on the order of 1 volt. It wouldn't take much electrical "noise" on such a circuit to throw an ABS error. And it also wouldn't be surprising that such an error would only appear periodically - and might disappear as soon as the van is re-started (which is exactly the symptoms I've been seeing).

Of course, I need some more time to verify that the problem doesn't return.

I plan to get under the van and take some pictures to share what I've done.

My ABS system is still behaving. I hope we're on to something here!

I even more firmly believe the connector to the ABS module has been the source of my problems. It appears to be fairly well designed - but I believe the connection can become marginal over time. I'm particularly suspicious of the low-voltage signal portions of the connector (note that the connector includes both small signal "pin" connections and larger power-style "spade" connections). For example, the wheel sensor voltages are pretty small - on the order of 1 volt. It wouldn't take much electrical "noise" on such a circuit to throw an ABS error. And it also wouldn't be surprising that such an error would only appear periodically - and might disappear as soon as the van is re-started (which is exactly the symptoms I've been seeing).

Of course, I need some more time to verify that the problem doesn't return.

I plan to get under the van and take some pictures to share what I've done.
We were always waiting for a miracle solution for this endless problem; maybe you have found it. Anyway this is the next weekend project for me, and just believe that this could be the right solution for this. Nothing or almost nothing happened during the winter time or during rain ( probably because of moisture or humidity) but happen all the time when it is dry and hot. I can't wait to see the result :):):)

Hi, someone can helpme??????? i have the abs and brake light on on my windstar 2001 i do almost everything and this weekend gone check the abs module connector hope that works.

I just need to know the voltage on the wire conected to the parking brake switch, i checkit and reads 1.06 volts it is correct? have more than 6 months with the lights problem and is driving me crazy.

Anyone with hanes manual?

Thanks

The ABS light is unrelated to the parking brake switch.

The *red* brake light on the dashboard will light if either:

- the parking brake is engaged
or
- a problem is detected in the hydraulic brake system, such as (most commonly) low fluid, or unbalanced hydraulic pressure in the system (which would indicate other problems with brake lines or the master cylinder).

The *amber* ABS light on the dashboard only indicates a problem with the anti-lock portion of the brake system. The ABS module is *only* responsible for pulsing the brakes when it detects wheel slip during a stop (i.e., the brakes will still nominally work if the ABS module fails - but there will be no pulsing if a wheel slips during a stop).

I work in a shop and am currently working on a windstar that has ABS troubles... first thing tommorow morning I'm going to clean the connector. This van came in with an obvious broken TONER RING... (in case some of you don't know its the gear looking ring that induces the signal to the ABS mod.) I ordered an installed a new shaft and figured on solving the problem. I was surprised to find out the problem still exsisted... not only were the symptoms still present, this van doesn't throw an ABS warning light.

I will say this, I scanned the ABS computer, and got some codes from it, there were at least six, but the one that most stood out to me was... brake warning light short to ground... I have a feeling the poster who cleaned the corrosion and dirt from the terminals actually adressed the source...
Like I said, i'll be doing the same thing in the morning and let you know what happens. Lets remember that sometimes similar symptoms arise from different problems... but by the time I do this I will have eliminated other possibilities.

Ian -

Please let us know how it works out.

To clarify, note that the work I outlined earlier was done solely to address an intermittent ABS light: It came on about once every 2 weeks - and went away as soon as the van was re-started. If you have an ABS light that is on whenever the van is running, you likely have a problem that goes beyond a dirty connector. Get the chassis codes read and address the error properly.

That said, it appears that intermittent ABS lights on this era of Windstar are common - and maddeningly difficult to get rid of. As I gain confidence that what I've done has solved my problem (Still no ABS light!!!), I'll be sharing more details and pictures.

I work in a shop and am currently working on a windstar that has ABS troubles... first thing tommorow morning I'm going to clean the connector. This van came in with an obvious broken TONER RING... (in case some of you don't know its the gear looking ring that induces the signal to the ABS mod.) I ordered an installed a new shaft and figured on solving the problem. I was surprised to find out the problem still exsisted... not only were the symptoms still present, this van doesn't throw an ABS warning light.

I will say this, I scanned the ABS computer, and got some codes from it, there were at least six, but the one that most stood out to me was... brake warning light short to ground... I have a feeling the poster who cleaned the corrosion and dirt from the terminals actually adressed the source...
Like I said, i'll be doing the same thing in the morning and let you know what happens. Lets remember that sometimes similar symptoms arise from different problems... but by the time I do this I will have eliminated other possibilities.

Ian any update? it works?
Please letus Know.

Tried what Phil described but did not work in my case. My ABS light is still on intermittently. My scantool can access the abs module but did not detect any code.

knl25 -

As it turns out, all of my effort to clean ABS connections didn't end up making a real difference. The intermittent light came back, and began to show up more frequently over time.

However, your comment comes at a fortuitous moment. After nearly 2000 miles *without* a return of my infamous, annoying intermittent ABS light, I believe I can finally claim victory: I solved the problem on my van.

The solution isn't trivial: I replaced the electronic portion of the ABS controller (the unit underneath the van, under the driver's position). I purchased a new unit from Ford (approx $325), and replaced it *without* opening the brake hydraulic system (no bleeding, etc.). This does require some effort and there are a few tricks to avoid problems.

I took lots of pictures, and have been planning a nice write-up of what I did. I need to finish it up and post it here!

Tried what Phil described but did not work in my case. My ABS light is still on intermittently. My scantool can access the abs module but did not detect any code.
My scan tool can also access some ABS codes but not on some ABS with DTC codes. The cheapest I found for the ABS type scanner that will allow to bleed ABS system totally is around 1,000 bucks. Yes the module Phil I speaks of is a common problem on the Windstars My problem is ABS and Brake light came on at the same time. I did some cleaning of some of the ABS electrics and have not had any more issues at this point. I think the heat played a roll here in NC this year because we had a lot of days that never got below 90 degrees and a few of those days hit 100 +. After it started cooling down I have had no transmission problems or ABS problems.. Go figure.. Now after the cool down and the plug wires were changed fuel millage increased and performance is back to normal. Now its not the bomb I thought it was going to end up being this year. 103,000 + miles and going strong.." Knock -ON -Wood".

Anyone have any other ideas on the intermittent ABS light problem? What about the ground TSB?

Bringing this one back from the dead - anyone (Phil?) know what kind of fastener is used to attach the ABS module to the ABS HCU (Hydraulic control unit)? A yard sold me a low mileage used module, but the screws were so corroded they included the HCU itself. Trying to get these apart and not clear whether they're allen head, Phillips or what. Don't want to start in on the unit in the car until I can get donar apart.

Answering my own post, these are T-15 (or possibly T-18) Torx head screws. Although I won't be taking pictures, will post some notes when done.

Note the post on this page indicates that software needs to be read off the old module and downloaded to the new module. I *think* this is for Windstars having traction control. Neither mine nor the donar car had traction control, so am going to wing it.

LTDzak

LTDzak -

Yes, they are Torx fasteners. Corrosion is a common problem in this particular setting: The Torx fasteners themselves are steel - and the ABS hydraulic module is aluminum, so you're practically guaranteeing some galvanic action, even without the water that's bound to show up on the underside of the van.

Regarding software transfer: I didn't do this, and doubt it's a big deal. What if the original module (either with or without traction control) was so badly damaged, no software could be retrieved? The system still has to be repairable.

I hope your ABS repair project goes well! Mine still works fine.

I just wanted to chime in with my experience on the issue of the ABS light and Traction control light. I have a 2000 Windstar that I took in for the rear axle recall. While there the dealer did the recall for the switch under the master cylinder. They also informed me my van was unsafe to drive as the front brakes were almost gone. i took the van home and replaced the lifetime warranty pads.
Within 1 week of all of this, as I was driving the ABS and Traction control lights came on after a 20 minute drive. They would come on and of at random, sometimes within 2 minutes of starting and sometimes after 4 hrs. This continued on for a couple weeks and the light was coming on and staying on more often. I figured the dealer screwed something up, and came here and found this thread. Figuring my ABS sensor was shot, I figured I now have no traction control or ABS.
Early last week my speedometer started acting up. driving 60 MPH it would swing up to 80, drop to 20 and then go back to the real speed. This was sporadic, until this too was a near constant thing. Went to my neighborhood mechanic and he used his new Snap-On scanner. He found about 20 codes, everything up to and including the rear parking sensor (had one go out last summer) and even the blend door showed a code (fixed that in November).
He cleared all codes, then drove around the block and had a ABS code. Showed drivers front wheel sensor. He looked it up for the resistance, and tested it. It should be in the 15-25 range, and this one was at 8.
He put a new sensor on it, and all my troubles went away. Don't give up hope, maybe you need to have someone with a newer scanner pull the codes. Checking the sensors with a multimeter might not detect the fault. I inspected the ABS module under the van and it was clean and corrosion free. I have owned this van since new, and it has been a decent ride. I have 150K on it.

My 2001 Windstar also turns on both the red brake light and the ABS light at the same time when the brake pedal is depressed. This happens every few days, and
both lights stay on for a couple of days then just as strange, they clear themselves.
I don't think these lights are entirely 'independent'...

Old Gear Head,

Take it and have the codes read. Probably just a bad wheel sensor. Cost me $70 to get codes read. Need a higher end scanner that can read ABS codes. There are good suggestions in this thread. One person suggested taking off each wheel sensor and checking the Ohms. This is the cheap way out, but labor intensive and weather related. It was easier for me to pay someone $70 to scan them and clear out 10+ years of codes, and then grab the newest code thrown.

i have the same problem intermittently, funny though mine comes as a double whammy.
when my ABS lights up, so does my traction control light like they are joined at the hip.... sometimes it beeps and lights for no reason, and other times when i hit a bump or pothole in the road, not looking forward to a failure with New England winter snow on the way, any ideas guys?

15 to 25 Ohms? Really, I checked mine today since I am having the same trouble as many are discussing here. My readings are: RF: 1918 Ohms, LF: 1918 Ohms, LR: 1950 Ohms, RR: 1915 Ohms.

Can anyone confirm the nominal ohms reported by so2315?

It seems odd that the ohms reported by so2315 is 15 -25 and I am getting 100 times that plus some on all mine. I would find it odd that all would fail with the same high ohms reading.

I think I will go to Advance AP and ask to check a brand new sensor... that is, if they have them.

.....This is happening to my 2000 Windstar also. The way it came on the other night was after turning a slow tight circle in a gas station. I did a sharp u-turn turn to the right around the gas pumps and then turned left sharply and then right again out of the gas station. The ABS light came on, and my dash display said "Check Traction Control." The next day after starting the vehicle, the light was off..... My wife usually drives the car, and says she typically sees the light come on after turning in tight circles as I did that night. There would be a big difference in speed of the outer wheel during a tight turn, I wonder if that triggered it. I'll also be watching this thread to see if anyone figures out this problem.....

I've got a small puppy in this fight. LeeD383's posting describes closest to what I'm experiencing: Infrequently, but occuring more often now; the "Traction control active" light comes on while I am turning slowing thru an intersection or into a drive way. This comes complete with the traction pumps kicking in, just for a few seconds, ... just a tho a wheel has slipped, even tho I am on dry pavement! If I have just backed up with the wheel in one direction ... and then go forward in the other direction ... the chances for the strange event seem to be improved. I get no error codes ... its as tho the sensors actually saw a slipping wheel. How could this be?

I have a guess that I haven't acted on .... but other symptoms seem to support the guess: My '99 has 340k miles on its original motor mounts ... and I think I can occassionally "feel" the engine twist a bit.... because the mounts are finally giving up. If, while backing up, the engine were to twist and settle in one direction ... and then be twisted in the other direction during start-up in the opposite direction (or while bouncing across a bump in the road) ... the ABS sensors would/could suddenly see a error as the half-shafts roll, in place, as the engine twists ...

Of course, old worn joints in half-shafts would also contribute to this phenom....

Does this make any sense? Should I grab my tools.... ?

12ounce,

I would be surprised to find that worn motor mounts would cause the ABS light to come on. I am not a ABS specialist, nor did I wake up in a Holiday Inn Express this morning, but I don't think such a small amount of rotation of the half-shafts would trigger and error and turn on the ABS light.

Just my thoughts.

..... nor did I wake up in a Holiday Inn Express this morning, .....

Fantastic breakfast bar!!

Hello, Has anyone found the real cause for the dash abs light to come on intermitinly?:banghead:

Generally it is the ABS EBCM Computer.

The cheapest repair I have seen is on eBay. $50 - you must send in your ABS computer, they repair and send back to you.

Or grab a $10 soldering iron from radio shack and do it yourself. Resolder the big solder joints and the lights will go away forever. It never works as well as when you do it yourself!

Or grab a $10 soldering iron from radio shack and do it yourself. Resolder the big solder joints and the lights will go away forever. It never works as well as when you do it yourself!

So... it sounds like cold solder joints.

Is the computer for ABS under the van (under the driver's seat) or is it the one below the master cylinder?

Under the driver's seat. The 4 torx screws were rusted in pretty well so I had to pull down the HCU as well and cut the heads off off to separate it the ECU module. I replaced them with hex bolts from home depot.

I just wanted to chime in with my experience on the issue of the ABS light and Traction control light. I have a 2000 Windstar that I took in for the rear axle recall. While there the dealer did the recall for the switch under the master cylinder. They also informed me my van was unsafe to drive as the front brakes were almost gone. i took the van home and replaced the lifetime warranty pads.
Within 1 week of all of this, as I was driving the ABS and Traction control lights came on after a 20 minute drive. They would come on and of at random, sometimes within 2 minutes of starting and sometimes after 4 hrs. This continued on for a couple weeks and the light was coming on and staying on more often. I figured the dealer screwed something up, and came here and found this thread. Figuring my ABS sensor was shot, I figured I now have no traction control or ABS.
Early last week my speedometer started acting up. driving 60 MPH it would swing up to 80, drop to 20 and then go back to the real speed. This was sporadic, until this too was a near constant thing. Went to my neighborhood mechanic and he used his new Snap-On scanner. He found about 20 codes, everything up to and including the rear parking sensor (had one go out last summer) and even the blend door showed a code (fixed that in November).
He cleared all codes, then drove around the block and had a ABS code. Showed drivers front wheel sensor. He looked it up for the resistance, and tested it. It should be in the 15-25 range, and this one was at 8.
He put a new sensor on it, and all my troubles went away. Don't give up hope, maybe you need to have someone with a newer scanner pull the codes. Checking the sensors with a multimeter might not detect the fault. I inspected the ABS module under the van and it was clean and corrosion free. I have owned this van since new, and it has been a decent ride. I have 150K on it.

Are you saying 15-25 ohms? I am not sure about that. I checked the reluctance sensors on my 2000 Windstar and found that they all were within 1% of 1,943 ohms.