WIP: Tamiya 1/20 Tyrrell Yamaha 023

Tyrrell Yamaha 023
Mika Salo
Brazialian GP – Interlagos – 1995

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/123/379585528_8f00a17a15_o.jpg
(Image from Formula Perfect Manual Series, Volume 6)


My next build is the Tamiya 1/20 scale Tyrrell Yamaha 023 driven by Mika Salo in the 1995 season opener at Interlagos. Mika finished 7th in the race, the podium filled by Michael Schumacher, David Coulthard and Gerhard Berger respectively.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/154/379585526_6cb13b3c56_o.jpg

The most obvious difference between the car on the box and the one in the photograph is the colour. I decided to build the all blue version primarily because it will involve less masking :) but also because it looks better and I haven't yet seen one built. I choose to build Mika's ride rather than Ukyo's ride simply because Ukyo didn't finish the race. Also, I wanted to even things out as most of these models have been built as Ukyo's version. Also, Mika scored all of Tyrrell's championship points that season.

The less obvious difference is that half way through the season Tyrrell ditched their innovative hydraulic suspension system. Therefore, I am going to attempt to recreate their original suspension system using the reference pictures in the wonderful Formula Perfect Manual Series.

Anyway, on with the build...

The first part the I am going to focus on the the front wing and nose cone assembly. I separated the nose cone from the monocoque (as it is one piece in this kit :banghead: ).

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/164/379585533_48c3b71257_o.jpg

It also meant that the underside piece needed to be separated too. No big deal, I just wish the kit had been designed to have a removable nose cone. I also drilled out the little holes on the front wing side fences, as I am going to hinge the front wing and place a pin through the hole.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/185/379585530_5c331ccb73_o.jpg

You can see in the final image, I had drilled holes ready for the metal bolt heads.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/127/379585531_86656dc591_o.jpg

As you can tell, I plan for this build to be quite an adventure :grinyes:

Kind regards,
Bill

Cool,
nice start here Bill!

Good start Bill.It will be nice to see the all blue version built up.I must admit I have only ever seen the blue/white version before.It will be a lot easier to mask out the all blue one for sure.When you say this will be quite an adventure,will you be going to town on detailing the engine etc or just keeping it simple?

When you say this will be quite an adventure,will you be going to town on detailing the engine etc or just keeping it simple?

I will be going to town on the detail on this model, especially in the engine area. I plan to use lots of the RB motion hardware I got recently (replacing nuts and bolts) and scratch building anything that is omitted.

The only area that I plan to leave alone is the top of the front suspension under the front monocoque cover... the reference photos all show the geometery covered up so I really am not too sure what it looks like. In any case, I don't think my scratch building skills are up to getting it perfect and any issues there will be magnified with front ride height and what not.

Kind regards,
Bill

Nice one Bill, I'm looking forward to seeing this build come together.
It's also on my to do pile so hopefully I'll learn a thing or two from your experience!

Tell me, what do you think of the Formula Perfect manual?

Tell me, what do you think of the Formula Perfect manual?

I have four Formula Pefect Manual's for all the 1/20th scale cars (Jordan, Bennetton, Lotus, Tyrrell). The whole series is excellent even if, like me, your Japanese is not what it should be :). The Tyrrell book is no exception and is excellent too and is the primary reason I am building this car now.

I could be critical about the photographs as they are not always as detailed as one would like. Also, it can be quite difficult to work out which race an image is from. However, you won't find reference pictures as good as these anywhere else for this car (unless there is an issue of F1 Modeling covering this car that I don't know about).

Price wise, the books are a little on the expensive side but at least they are in demand and so their second hand value is high should you wish to sell on after the build. I got mine from Mac at Mac Modeling and I think he has some more.

Bottom line, if you are building this model and plan to do any detailling, the book is essential. Even if you are not, the under the cover photographs will help you learn how F1 cars of that era are plumbed, wired and the types of CF used too.

Hope that helps,
Bill

Great start, I'm looking forward to watch and learn as this one unfolds. I like the cars of this era as they look fast sitting still but aren't super-complex.

Thanks for sharing.

Dan

I am building this version. Brazil or Argentine GP or Presentation car. They are similar but different.

Here I have some extra pictures. take in account the air intake entrance above driver´s helmet. It is different from tamiya version. it needs some scratch job here.

There some ways to that. At night, I can put photos of the way I have choosen to do it. See that there are some differences to do that part of the car where driver touchs the back of his head on car. I do not know how to say it in English. I hope I can be clear. It is different according to presentation and others GPs.

here all that I have.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Salo-ersteLackierung-19952.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Salo-ersteLackierung-1995.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Pressefoto-Tyrrell-Postlethwait.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Pressefoto-Salo-Katayama-1995.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Pressefoto-ersteLackierung-1-5.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Pressefoto-ersteLackierung-1-4.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Pressefoto-ersteLackierung-1995.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/Img_0131.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/Img_0130.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/Tyrrell-023.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Pressefoto-ersteLackierung-1-3.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Pressefoto-ersteLackierung-1-2.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/023-Pressefoto-ersteLackierung-1-1.jpg

Hi Badi,

I am building this version. Brazil or Argentine GP or Presentation car. They are similar but different.
Cool. Is it on here? If it is I must have missed it. Thanks very much for sharing you reference photos. They really do help to understand the differences --- not just between the white/blue car and the all blue car, but also the differences between the three iterations of the blue car (Presentation/Brazil/Argentina).

Take in account the air intake entrance above driver´s helmet. It is different from tamiya version. it needs some scratch job here.
Yes you are quite right, there are a number of changes/decisions that need to be made:

1) In profile, the sides of the head-rest need building out so that it is flush with the downward leading edge.
2) When looking straight over the driver's head into the air intake, the bottom of the top of the loop has a horizontal surface (clear to see on the Mika Salo/Brazil photo in my first post) but strangely not on the presentation car.
3) Colour/material. Some photos show the head rest to be dark blue, others white and blue. Some photos appear to be a smooth leather type material, while others show a fluffy suede like material.

Thanks very much for your help,
Bill

well,

this is the way I did. I just sand the air intake until it only faces the head rest.....this was the word...thank you!!! and I glued it all together.

You can. My car is going to be a curbside, cause I have the other version with the cowl opened.


I think my links are working now...

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/ty01.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/ty02.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/ty03.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/ty04.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Muribadi/ty05.jpg

Yeah, we call it a head rest here in the UK, although strictly speaking rest is a contraction of restraint rather than somewhere to rest your head :) although for most people the distinction is subtle.

That is a very nice start you have made to your Tyrrell 023. I notice that you have closed the cooling ducts on the rear cowling side pods. Do you know for sure that was how they were? I have been unable to determine how to model them for the Brazilian GP.

Kind regards,
Bill

Hi Badi,

I have been trying to answer my own question about the cooling ducts on the rear cowling. Salos car in two of the reference photos you provided has the cooling ducts open. However, it could be Brazil or Argentina in those shots, I just don't know. The title of the images says ersteLackierung which translates from German to English as first lacquer finish (well according to Systran on my Mac it does). And, well, to be honest, that makes no sense. Can anyone here who speaks better German than I confirm if it also means something like Salo's first GP finish?

The images appear to be from the same race, and it appears to be wet. However, it says that Brazil was a dry race. However, the horizontal bottom surface to the top of the hoop appears to be evident on these photos, indicating that they are Brazil, because according to F1 Facts photos, that part is arched for the Argentine GP. Compare these images:

http://b.f1-facts.com/ul/a/4924

http://b.f1-facts.com/ul/a/4930

Bottom line: I guess that the cowling will be open for both Brazil and Argentina. Presentation cars tend to have no cooling requirements :) so they cover up all the holes to make it look pretty. Unless I find evidence to the contrary, I'm going to model this car with the cooling ducts.

Kind regards,
Bill

Excellent choice of version. I really liked the all blue version as well. Look forward to seeing this one come along. Nice start with the nose and front wing.

You are right !!!

both ducts were opened during these GPs.

In Brazilian GP there was no small deflectors in front of car. During Argentine GP, I do not know.

Have a look in first 2 pictures I post before. They are from Brazilian GP. It rained during this part of this GP.

here I have pictures of other version of this car built in 2004.



http://paginas.terra.com.br/lazer/muribadi/carf1.htm

In Brazilian GP there was no small deflectors in front of car. During Argentine GP, I do not know.

Do you mean the bargeboards? Because, they are present on both the Brazialian and Argentine GP photos. They are blue (not white) so are difficult to see but they are definitely there.

Thanks for the link to your photos of the car you built in 2004. Very nice build, congratulations. Also, thanks for confirming the the photos you posted earlier were from the Brazialian GP. They will help considerably to ensure that the model is correct in profile.

Kind regards,
Bill

Ooooo! I've never seen this model built before, never bought it, but this will definititely be an interesting thread to follow!:bigthumb:

Well this should be a good subject I like the fact you chose the blue version.
Also good choice of driver I would have picked Mika too just for the fact people still remember who he is. Ukyo WHO :grinyes:

Also good choice of driver I would have picked Mika too just for the fact people still remember who he is. Ukyo WHO :grinyes:

Dave, I hope you don't plan to order anything from Japan after a comment like that :lol2:

On a different note, I have done more research on the change required to the suspension. My original comments are incorrect... as there are three different suspension designs in the reference pictures. In both Brazil and Argentina, the car is 'traditionally' sprung with springs fore and dampers aft. Then, for the next 'few' races, the car features hydraulic rear suspension. About mid-season, the car revents to the traditionally sprung setup, but minus the dampers behind (the springs are now red too). The model comes from Tamiya with the late season setup.

Kind regards,
Bill

Bill are you going to use any aftermarket parts or decals on this build?

Bill are you going to use any aftermarket parts or decals on this build?

Hi Mark,

Good point, I had forgotten to mention that. I will be using Studio 27 decals but no detail kit (I can't find one listed anywhere, so if anyone has seen a detail kit for this car, please let me know).

I will be using lots of hardware from RB Motion plus some SMS and Sakatsu items I already have. I also got some MFH blue cloth for the head rest and interior but have now realised that it is only really suitable for the late version.

I am considering getting an AcuStion detail kit for another F1 vehicle of this vintage, just so that I can get the disk rotor sprue, as the brake disks are a problematic area of low detail.

In terms of body colour, I plan to use Halfords Vauxhall Atlantis Blue Spray Paint. I bought it over Christmas and it looks like a perfect match but I wont know for sure until I test it on a bit of sprue.

Kind regards,
Bill

I have now completed much of the work on the nose-cone and front-wing.

As mentioned in previous posts, I decided to separate the wing elements for added realism. One particular area in need of some scratch work is the area where the secondary element of the front wing attaches to the side-fence. See the images below, both from the excellent Formula Perfect Manual Series, Vol. 6 Tyrrell Yamaha 023 Close Up & History book.


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/146/392961721_208b97636a_o.jpg
(Image from Formula Perfect Manual Series, Volume 6)

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/171/392961725_402971174b_o.jpg
(Image from Formula Perfect Manual Series, Volume 6)


A vertical piece needed to be constructed through which the wing could be pinned. For this task, I chose to use aluminium from an empty tin of pop.


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/182/392960069_70b48a3ab1_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/132/392960058_f5d402d02d_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/178/392960060_26fb916135_o.jpg


I considered replacing the moulded Gurney flap. I made one out of plastic and two from aluminium tin can as prototypes but none of the looked as good as the moulding, so it is staying. I used hardware from RB Motion to detail the Gurney flap and also to pin the secondary front wing. I think the Gurney flap bolts are a little too big, so I am going to replace them with smaller ones.


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/170/392960073_e12015534b_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/128/392961715_a9274c4ad6_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/159/392961720_c12eae0848_o.jpg


The reference photos clearly show 6x7 placement holes for the wing, whereas Tamiya have moulded 4x6. The holes would be too small if I corrected the problem, so I left them alone, just drilling them out at 0.3mm. The nose cone has been glued together and awaits putty. I have drilled all the holes for the wings, monocoque attachment and camera mount point.


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/167/392961717_3c6e63bb86_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/143/392961716_0c87a71953_o.jpg


All the wings have been drilled and pinned with copper wire. The primary element has 0.8mm wire, the secondary 0.6mm. The secondary wing will be adjustable even once the model is complete :)


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/130/392960065_28e122bc46_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/179/392960063_ba32faf670_o.jpg


There is still some work to be done on the monocoque mount points, however I am waiting for some styrene to arrive.

Kind regards,
Bill

Nice work with the pop can material.Never thought of using that for model making.The whole wing is looking good Bill.

That really cool what your doing to the front wing Bill can't wait to see more
:)

Nice work with the pop can material.Never thought of using that for model making.The whole wing is looking good Bill.

My first time using this as a material. I got the idea of using thin aluminium from Ares and the Ligier he is building on here. Be careful as the edges are sharp, but once you have filed them down it is a real pleasure to work with. You can use a craft knife but it requires a fair amount of pressure. I found that using scissors is the best way, and I have been using scissors that were in a Swiss Card.

Best thing is, pop cans are free, so if you mess up, you can always make another.

Kind regards,
Bill

Hello Bill,
Just discovered your WIP........:banghead:
I've never used Aluminium from a pop can.
I've used aluminium foil from K'S (on a roll)
Nice work anyway.
Cheers,

Jamme

...The secondary wing will be adjustable even once the model is complete

:eek: Great idea! I don't think that you'll be moving it very often but just to know that it can move will be rewarding. Nice work!

Some more fabrication work on the nose-cone.

According to the references in the Formula Perfect Manual, there are four raised studs where the nose-cone is mounted.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/149/404648278_14757b88cc_o.jpg
Source: Formula Perfect Manual Series, Vol. 6

Using bits of left over sprue, I fabricated 4 mount points so that the nose-cone can be mounted to the monocoque.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/131/404869805_eb95622cef_o.jpg

Moving on to the monocoque, I fabricated a new bulkhead to which the nose-cone would be mounted. This was made from 0.5 mm styrene sheet

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/123/404869806_4b91be7367_o.jpg

I decided that I would remove the front suspension cover after all. This meant that I had to fabricate the interior and according to what I can see from the reference photos, it has a flat section in the middle with angled sections either side. In order to get the correct shape I had to insert additional slices of styrene to fill the gaps.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/175/404869810_77cb2f817c_o.jpg

The barge-board supports have a section of the monocoque attached to them (the black pieces in the photo). I wanted to attach them now as they were just bolted on.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/157/404869814_9987ab3206_o.jpg

Turning my attention to the rear of the monocoque, I attached the rear bulkhead where the engine would attach. The kit piece includes the radiator assembly, so I removed them with a sharp knife. I cut out a section where the fuel cell connectors will be located as per my reference pictures. I also lowered the top section because I want to replicate the e-box shelf on the real car.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/142/404869815_0d340ecd16_o.jpg

Finally, for this update but not for the monocoque fabrication task, I added a small piece of styrene to the engine induction scoop. On the reference photos the interior angle is level for the Brazilian GP (but not for the Argentinean GP).

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/144/404869816_6397eae7e0_o.jpg

Obviously there is much more work to be done. I just wanted to give you guys a taste for how ambitious I am being with this project.

Comments and critiques welcome,
Bill

Well done Bill your scratch building looks great. :thumbsup:
Your moving along nicely keep up the good work.

Wow, you're really going nuts with this one! Looking forward to seeing some colour go down.

Nice Work!
You're gluing with Cyano glue, no?

Thank you,

Jamme

You're gluing with Cyano glue, no?
Hi Jamme,

Yes, it is Bostik Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate). On some parts I used Tamiya Cement, but when I am fabricating I like the strong and fast bond of CA glue. It takes a lot more sanding down afterwards, but I have found that it makes a good substitute for Milliput at this stage.

Regards,
Bill

Hello,

Well my WIP thread had finally fallen off the first page, so I thought it was about time that I posted an update. I have been making significant progress on the monocoque recently but the work has not really been suitable material for an update. It was also getting a bit tedious and like Captain Mark said, I was "looking forward to seeing so colour go down."

The nose-cone, front wings and side fences are now painted and the decals have been applied. I will wait another week before I clear over the top and polish up to a great shine --- a big thank you to whoever it was in my Jordan 191 thread who told me to get my @rse in gear and start polishing my paintwork properly :) Also, thank you to JayKay who criticised me for not filling in the sink holes on my models, I have done that too.

Enough talking, here are the pictures.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/176/422978531_3270cd7546_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/129/422978534_9195cad127_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/161/422978536_1abef2620d_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/162/422978540_e9ad4f7a3f_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/166/422978550_7f6fed8ec1_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/150/422978551_77b3756292_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/163/422980153_ac9051e7fd_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/146/422980154_dac0f8f355_o.jpg

The decals are from Studio 27. One possible problem with them is the colour of the Goodyear decal that sits on the secondary wing. My photo references show that it is dark blue, whereas the decal sheet has reproduced it in black. The CF pattern is the High Definition pattern from SMS. Although this pattern is supposed to be used on more modern F1 cars, for me, this was the closest to the reference pictures I had. The blue paint I have chosen is Halfords Vauxhall Atlantis Blue... to my mind it is a perfect match to this very difficult colour to replicate. I applied 2 coats of it over 1 coat of Halfords Appliance White Gloss and 2 coats of Halfords White Primer. The white parts simply got another coat of Appliance Gloss White. The black parts were painted with Halfords Satin Black before being the CF decals were applied.

Regards,
Bill

Looking great so far. You are at the point i do not enjoy, putting the wings together....good luck.

Wow, looks like you nailed the blue colour. And that last picture is pretty cool with all the components ready to go together. I've been looking forward to more updates on this build actually.

And in case it hasn't been suggested already, with regards to polishing out the clear coat, I'd recommend you go over to the Micro Mark website and purchase youself one of these...

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80939

Very much worth the money in my opinion, and highly recommended.
Just have a tube of Tamiya compound on hand as well, and a meter of VERY soft cloth from a linen store, and you can't go too far wrong.

Keep the updates coming!

Very nice blue you have used Bill.I really like the look of the carbon fibre on the front wing parts in the last photo.I would also agree with Captain Mark on the use of the Micro-Mesh polishing kits.They really are worth the money and are great for buffing up your finish to a mirror like shine.I got mine from Hiroboy's site.He's right about the cloth too.I used various different cloths on my recent McLaren and the differences between some are astounding.Keep the updates coming.I'm looking forward to seeing this one progress.

CF decals look impressive!

Hi Bill
Nice work the wing and nose they look good can't wait to see them put together.
The SMS Hi def CF looks great I have been waiting for some to use that so I could see what it look like.


PS Thanks Captain Mark for that link
:)

Hello,

First, thank you everyone for your kind comments.

In terms of polishing, I already have the Micro Mesh polishing cloths. I have used them before but my inexperience with them ended up with me having poor results and so just omitting to polish the body work. I got the courage to use them again on the rear cowling of the Jordan 191 and the results were outstanding. I now know that I need to ensure I have a hefty amount of clear on the parts and that I need to take my time. I have also found it difficult to polish hard to reach areas but after following Captain Mark's link I have found some smaller sanding products which I am going to order in the next week or so. Thanks again for the pointer to that website... there are so many cool products to be found there.

The Hi Def SMS CF is very nice stuff. I have just received some Modellers CF from Hiroboy and that looks like a great pattern too.

Kind regards,
Bill

Looks great Billy, it has been amazing watching your modelling skills progress over all of your builds and this one is sure to be a stunner.

As for the pop cans, will empty beer cans work the same, I've got tons of those here!!!

Keep it up, looking forward to seeing more.

As for the pop cans, will empty beer cans work the same, I've got tons of those here!!!


Ha ha! No, you must use Schwepps Canada Dry :)

Only kidding, I am sure that it doesn't matter. I observe that different drinks manufacturers use different thickness... some beer cans are thicker. I think this could be used to our advantage for different components. I found the material very easy to work with, scissors being great to cut it.

Kind regards,
Bill

A quick plea for reference photos on a couple of aspects of this build.

1. Front suspension housing: The Formula Perfect book shows the suspension covered by fabric when the carbon fibre cover is removed. Does anyone have any reference pictures of the Tyrrell without this area covered. I plan to use guesswork and other cars of the era if not.

2. Rear wing bottom element/safety light: The kit comes with the safety light housed in the middle of the bottom element of the rear wing. Judging by the Forumla perfect manual, the car also ran with a continuous bottom element to the rear wing and the safety light housing suspended from brackets. I believe that this is how the car would have been in Brazilian GP. Can anyone confirm that? It might be you can read the Japanese in the book or you have photo references of the rear of the car.

Thanks in advance.
Bill

P.S. I have also posted this to the general forum too.

Hello everyone. I haven't disappeared, been abducted or given up modelling, I have just been really busy with other stuff. I've been working on the Tyrrell for about 6 hours in the last week and plan to do a proper update with photos this weekend.

I removed the fabrication work that I had done on the front suspension area and have now replaced it with a much better formed plasticard pieces. It sits much lower now, allowing me to recreate the front suspension properly.

Also, someone kindly PM'ed me some additional photographs of the rear of the car. It shows that the bottom element of the rear wing is a single piece and not the double piece with the light housing in the middle which ran in the later races of the 95 season. Also, the waisted rear cowling will have to be squared off too. All of that, I can worry about in a few months as I am going to be focussing on getting the monocoque sorted for now... and that is a much bigger job than I originally planned.

Cheers,
Bill

P.S. Thanks to those of you who PM'ed me over the last 3 months to check that I was okay. I really appreciated it.

Looking forward to more pics... man this kit is on my shelf and just begging me to build it... but that'll make four on the go at once. I'll just content myself to watch your progress for now.

Bill, hold your horses!!!

I just saw this...!!!
http://www.hlj.com/product/S27FP2044

Tyrrell Yamaha 023 upgrade set from Studio27! Not too expensive, and to my knowledge there's not another detail set around - might be worth grabbing before you finish this build. Unfortunately they don't show the parts, but I imagine there will be some helpful stuff there.

Cheers,
M

Hello everyone... firstly apologies for the gap in posts but I have finally some progress. On with the show...


As I mentioned in an earlier post, the original fabrication for the front suspension housing was too high and did not leave enough room for me to fit all the suspension details that you can see in this image from the FPM.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/208/523609099_5e0987698d_o.jpg

So I have removed that and started again, this time building the horizontal shelf lower and not tapering/bending it up towards the driver. In the following images (comparing to the first time around) you can see how this has been accomplished. You will also notice that I still have many hours of work to do in order to get all the surfaces square and smooth. However, it is a very big improvement over my first attempt.


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/175/404869810_77cb2f817c_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/205/523581466_4a9c51e209_o.jpg


Another issue to resolve was how the rear bulkhead meets the under-tray. Tamiya have moulded the bottom of the bulkhead to the undertray for reasons only known to themselves.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/224/523581498_0337b0182e_o.jpg


If you look at the following two images from FPM you will see that this is wrong and I decided that it needed to be fixed.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/193/523609081_9dd3b92782_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/252/523609087_41f23b9b3c_o.jpg

In order to fix the problem on the rear bulkhead I just used a styrene sheet, cut it to approximate size and then worked it to the correct shape with a file as you can see in the next image.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/523581508_3a1ce4505c_o.jpg


I also removed the unwanted moulding from the undertray and this test fit fine as you can see in the next image.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/223/523581510_0afd21afd3_o.jpg


Moving onto the front suspesion, the lower members attach to moulded pins on part A19. However, because I have already attached A19 to the monocoque, I had to come up with a workaround. I removed the pins on A19, drilled out some holes, and pinned the lower suspension arms in place with some 0.8mm wire---the image shows a thinner gauge of wire because it is a dry fit :)

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/222/523581526_5617258b40_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/241/523617901_fcfd6ff3f1_o.jpg

And, finally, just a couple of images showing the front suspension dry fitted and just how much more work there is to do on that area alone :(

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/219/523609065_0ec1f5ffd1_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/238/523581530_f81a1dfe6a_o.jpg


Here's hoping the next update will be much sooner.

Cheers,
Bill

Wow, you're going the whole hog on this one - I know it's a way off, but I can't wait to see some colour go down!
Keep up the great scratch building work Bill.

Thanks for the kind comments Mark. Yes, once you start going the extra yard on one element, you have to keep up the high standards. Also, with a publication as good as the FPM, there are no excuses.

Cheers,
Bill

P.S. I have ordered the S27 photo etch set; thanks for the heads up on that. Also, I have got purchased a carbon fibre kit so I will be able to make some parts out of real carbon fibre... the plan at the moment is to do this on the rear wing.

Some nice progress since your last update Bill.:thumbsup:

Glad to see you back at it Bill nice update seems that you got a really good handle on what you want to do with the front of the mono looking forward to your next update

Billy,

the Tyrell is looking great, really, really nice prep work too. I bet your itching to start spraying the body. The colour scheme for the car is not the easyest either - bet you'll be glad when its done... well at least I would be! :-)

Where did you get your CF kit from Bill???

Hi Mark,

I got it from carbonology.com. It is the student technology pack. Like I said, the scale is not right but it does allow you to have a go at the real thing for a very reasonable price.

Cheers,
Bill

Time for another update.

The monocoque has now been through putty and primer twice; it has improved a lot but will still need to go through the cycle at least one more time (see Image 1). Image 2 shows the front cover superimposed. I will need to add material around the edge of the cover in order to reduce the gap... the process of cutting this part out has clearly taken a good 1-2mm off its size. I haven’t decided whether to use putty or plastic to do this so I would welcome your suggestions.


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1118/728377585_148a370764_o.jpg
Image 1: Front suspension area

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1259/728377487_312914238f_o.jpg
Image 2: Front suspension cover


The good thing is that I now have plenty of room to add detail under the cover :) . The bad new is that I have very little to go on between the driver and the pushrods because all the photo references are covered :( . If anyone can tell me whether there was a single or dual spring system at the front, please let me know. From Image 3, I'd say single but it is far from conclusive!


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1367/729254132_de52a4f61a_o.jpg
Image 3: Front suspension (from Formula Perfect Manual)


Turning my attention to the side pods, the most obvious problem are the 3 vents that have been placed in the mould by Tamiya (see Image 4). At some point during the season, Tyrrell must have been having problems with the electronic boxes overheating and put some holes in. However, they are not on any of my reference pictures, so they will have to be filled in.


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1056/728377647_ce3cb6af81_o.jpg
Image 4: Ebox ventilation

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1388/729254232_992b605e3e_o.jpg
Image 5: No ventilation holes (Formula Perfect Manual)


Image 5 also tells the story of another problem, namely the curved black underneath area of the side pods. This has been omitted by Tamiya as shown in Image 6. Well, when I say omitted, it is missing from the sidepod but is incorporated into the undertray :screwy: as shown in Image 7.


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1039/728377693_e4b52a158d_o.jpg
Image 6: Gap underneath the sidepods

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1401/728377717_12902ef76c_o.jpg
Image 7: Undertray incorporating the bottom of the sidepod


Continuing the sidepod saga still further, there is also the problem of the thickness of the sidepod walls, as shown in Images 8 and 9. I will need to bulk out these walls considerably. I will also add some wire mesh on the inside of the sidepods as I have been saving an old kitchen sieve up for this very purpose :)


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1394/729254186_05fee26002_o.jpg
Image 8: Thick side pod walls (Formula Perfect Manual)

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1432/728377663_e9afb4d203_o.jpg
Image 9: A cavity needs creating to allow room for the electronics


The final note concerns the hole at the back of the bulkhead. There is some work required to smooth out the radius of the internal corners here and a hole needs to be made in the hole (if that makes sense?)

Thanks for your attention. Your reward is this Photoshoped image of my Jordan 191 that I have just got around to doing... enjoy.


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1416/729254258_10fedb2415_o.jpg

Billy

Looking good, can't wait to see more. OK, onto the suspension deal, I don't think that this car had springs period, I am pretty sure that those cannisters that you see are the suspension. This car was in the active days and I think that those cannisters are small hydraulic actuators, computer controlled that levelled the car and pulled up the wheels when a bump was sensed. The large central can is probably some kind of accumulator to ensure that enough fluid was available for any actuations required. Thye may even be pneumatic as I do know that Tyrrell used an air operated gearshift, so, hydraulics may not even be part of the car. I will try and find out more as I know a guy who knows everything about these Tyrrell's, I'll see what he knows for you!

Good work - and love the Jordan shot! I'll have to try doing that one of these days...

Not sure about the top cover on the nose. You could use putty, but it wouldn't stick very well and would most likely bump off easily. Personally I'd probably try using plastic card of similar thickness, glue it on and simply sand it back.

You could try remolding a new piece, but that's beyond my skills and I can't really comment on how to get started.

Active suspension was banned after the 1993 season..

Keep up the good work, it's lookng excellent :)

Looking good, can't wait to see more. OK, onto the suspension deal, I don't think that this car had springs period, I am pretty sure that those cannisters that you see are the suspension. This car was in the active days and I think that those cannisters are small hydraulic actuators, computer controlled that levelled the car and pulled up the wheels when a bump was sensed. The large central can is probably some kind of accumulator to ensure that enough fluid was available for any actuations required. Thye may even be pneumatic as I do know that Tyrrell used an air operated gearshift, so, hydraulics may not even be part of the car. I will try and find out more as I know a guy who knows everything about these Tyrrell's, I'll see what he knows for you!

Hi Willster, thanks for looking into this for me. Active suspension was seen in 1992-3 but was banned by the FIA in 1994, so this 1995 car won't have active suspension per se. According to Wikipedia "The chassis proved to be very mediocre, and the team's innovative "Hydrolink" suspension was rendered ineffective due to its deficiencies, eventually being removed at mid-season." As I am building the car from race 2 (Argentina) then I've clearly got "Hydrolink" suspension but I don't really know what that looks like. The Formula Perfect Manual confuses things because it shows 3 different types of rear suspension suggesting that the Tyrrell 023 went Passive->Hydrolink->Passive during the season.

Thanks again for your help (and your friends) with this,
Bill

Small update.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1337/1210301445_b9105bfc19_o.jpg

The wheels and tyres are now complete. Wheels were undercoated in grey and topped with 2 coats of Halford Satin Black Spray paint. Then used Tamiya's weathering kit to add a few highlights. Tyres were cleaned and the yellow Goodyear decals applied (denoting the small width and higher profile front wheels introduced to reduce grip for safety reasons).

The assembly was then coated in a single layer of clear as otherwise the tyre decals just rub off with handling. This is a shame as the clear gives the sidewalls too shiny a surface for exact realism, but on balance it is the most sensible choice. Finally I added Sakatsu valves and used a dremel to resurface the tyre tread.

N.B. If you build this and are using the Studio 27 decals, you will need to trim all the excess carrier film of the Fondmetal decals for the REAR rims. The surface of the rim that the decal is applied to is just that bit smaller on the rear than it is the front.

All the best,
Bill

P.S. I have begun another build which will run alongside this Tyrrell, Mansell's F189 (Early) --- watch AF for a WIP thread coming soon. I needed something easy to keep my interest levels up as the Tyrrell is getting very complicated now.

why don't you seal the tyres with a coat of clear flat (probably thinned through your airbrush) to get rid of the shiny sidewalls. I think it would make them look much better. You can always make a round mask if you want to keep the wheel centres shiny.