Trying to replace my spark plug wires and plugs

Hello!!

I am trying desperately to replace my spark plug wires and spark plugs on my WIndstar without getting raped by the mechanics.

THe front 3 plugs look easy. Unfortunately, the back 3 look like climbing Everest might be easier.

I took the car to Auto Zone and the codes P1518 and P0303 came up. The 0303 code means I have a misfire in the #3 cylinder, which is in the back of course. :banghead: I am assuming new plugs and wires will do the trick. It's getting to them that looks to be impossible.

I am heading out to Mammoth Mountain for some skiing tomorrow and would really like to get the minivan running by the morning.

Any pointers for a semi average mechanic like myself?

Two have to be changed from underneath, and one can be reached from behind the passenger side wheel. It's not very easy and a lift is suggested.

I have replaced the plugs on my 2000 3.8. I removed the cowl and did it from up top. It's hard to see the plugs but you can do it by feel. I always avoid sitting under the van if I don't have to. All tolled it took about 45 minutes including the removal of the cowling. You can get a good look at the rear plugs through the wheel well if necessary. Be sure to use Motorcraft or Autolite double platinums.

Thanks for the reply guys. :bigthumb:

I have taken the upper and lower cowling off the block. But, trying to replace them from up top looks menacing. I have wheel ramps (garage sale!) and have the front wheels up. I can understand not wanting to get under the car.

I will keep you guys updated as the wanna be mechanic in me continues...

All 6 are off!!!

Back to Auto Zone to get the motorcraft or autolites. :bigthumb:

Great work!

Don't mess up by overtorqueing the replacement plugs ... 7 - 8 foot lbs is all that is recommended. That isn't very much! Overtorqueing the plugs will lead to stress in the plug body that may lead to failure and misfire.

Use a bit of petroleum jelly or elect grease on the plug cable caps. Helps the removal of cables next time around!

Unbelieveable. I can never do a job right. Everything is back together, except for some kind of exhaust tubing that I don't remember where it goes. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

It's an s-shaped tube about 3/8 inch in diameter and I have no clue where it goes. I just hope that it doesn't go in the back of the engine. :banghead:

Ford part XF2E-6C342-BC

Ha!! I found where it goes. It connects from the REAR valve cover to the portion on the air intake between the filter and throttle control. YES!!

Now, I go start it.

Damnit!!

The #3 cylinder is still misfiring.

Any ideas? Now, I'm just frustrated.

Could it be the rotor...err, I mean the rectangular rotor/coil box?

Damnit!!

The #3 cylinder is still misfiring.

Any ideas? Now, I'm just frustrated.

Could it be the rotor...err, I mean the rectangular rotor/coil box?

Could be, or injectors - berryman's chemtool in the gas for that. However, your first post included P1518 which is bank 1 Intake Manifold Runner Control stuck open. That being open will cause a somewhat rough idle, and if it is stuck open you probably have a vacuum leak caused by the actuator (assuming '98 or older van). You might start by securing the rear IMRC in the closed position and plug the rear IMRC actuator's vacuum line (eliminate the vacuum actuator from the vacuum system) and see what changes.

Post back, good luck. I wish I were off to Mammoth.

I agree that the IMRC issue may be the cause....or contributing to the misfire....so I would follow the advice given.

I have also used the Berryman's B-12 Chemtool, in the metal can with success.
Clogged fuel injectors is a common issue, and the cleaner should clear them up.

My only comment would be to add some lube to the wires in any case where you replace them or take them off.

I recently replaced my plugs and it took longer to yank the wires off than it did to replace the plugs. The plugs were easy. Getting the wires off was a nightmare. :2cents:

I had a misfire on my 2001 and after changing plugs and wires, running fuel injector cleaner, and even removing the upper manifold cover and cleaning all carbon out and checking the manifold bolts, I still had the misfire. When I pulled the coil, it was cracked in two places. What I mean is the sealant that they put in there, that hardens over the bottom, was cracked and allowing arcing to the block. On ebay I found the coil for $15.00. After that it worked beautifully.
What I am saying is don't count out the coil just yet.
Ogre

True. Also, I've seen many coils die from trying to fire a bad plug for too long.

Hello again guys.

I am back from Mammoth and had the best skiing of my life. I can finally conquer some black diamonds.

OK, back to the Windstar. It was definitely the coil. I bought that at Pep Boys for $75, and it is off and running again. But, the check engine light is still on. I am assuming that is still the Intake Manifold thingy. I bought the Berrymans B-12 metal can stuff and put that in. We will see what happens.

But, the main thing is, I am back on 6 cylinders and I am not abusing the catalytic converter now.

Good!

But you should recheck the code ... something new may be afoot.

Good!
But you should recheck the code ... something new may be afoot.

I did go back to Auto Zone today. The hand held computer came back again as a P1518, IMRC stuck open. I bought a second can of Berrymans for the next tank full. I don't know if that is going to do any good. I also bought a new air filter, because that was needed.

Any other hints? I asked the guy at Auto ZOne if they had the runner control part, he said it doesn't exist. He said either a mass air flow sensor is shot or some other sensor that I forget the name of. :frown:

I'd be leary of an autozone scanner showing manufacturer-specific codes. They've been known to throw the wrong codes.

EDIT: Or the wrong definition..

I did go back to Auto Zone today. The hand held computer came back again as a P1518, IMRC stuck open. I bought a second can of Berrymans for the next tank full. I don't know if that is going to do any good. I also bought a new air filter, because that was needed.

Any other hints? I asked the guy at Auto ZOne if they had the runner control part, he said it doesn't exist. He said either a mass air flow sensor is shot or some other sensor that I forget the name of. :frown:


Hi
you can scan the forum for IMRC. It is an ongoing saga for owners of the 95-98's. The berrymans will do nothing for it, although your injectors are getting a cleaning which will help keep the misfires away.

The IMRC's are located on the passenger end of the engine, one front, one rear. The front one is located just behind the alternator. They are Vacuum operated actuators that open and close "butterflies" in the intake system. They are designed to be closed below about 3000RPM. You are getting the P1518 code because the rear (bank 1) IMRC is open below that engine speed. The most likely cause is vacuum leak, preventing the actuator from pulling the butterflies (one for each rear cylinder) closed. The actuator is spring loaded open and requires vacuum "pressure" to pull the valve closed - engineered backwards from my point of view. Here is a photo from Wiswind's site:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1201999780011220610BGkBnV

In the photo, the upper intake manifold is off, and you can see the cylinder 1 "butterfly" as well as the IMRC actuator.

Most of us have found that the IMRC actuator itself is faulty. Unfortunately, they cost a bundle. There are some aftermarket ones from Dorman, but I had a problem with one so am doing without. Perhaps they are improving the product however.

As far as I see it, you do no harm to the van with this problem unsolved. It is a nuisance for the light to be on, and you may have some rough running at lower RPM. Several us us have physically shut the butterfly with wire or other means to hold it in the "normal" position. If you are thinking about that, I would disconnect the actuator from the valve so you are not fighting the spring force, then secure the valve in the closed position - where it would be if the actuator arm were retracted. Unhook the vacuum line from the top of the actuator and plug it with a screw or similar object that tightly closes the hose. You can also physically retract the actuator arm with a wire tie or something similar, and the P1518 should go away, as the system will sense the valve is closed. I have driven with this setup for a couple of months now -waiting to either purchase a Ford actuator, or for a viable aftermarket alternative.

Good luck

Metalking, have you shared with us what year and engine you have?

Metalking, have you shared with us what year and engine you have?

That's a good point. I have been ASSuming '95-'98 with a 3.8L.

Metalking, have you shared with us what year and engine you have?

It's a 2001 and apparently that year only came out with the 3.8 and I do have 132,000 on the engine.

Sorry I didn't point that out. :banghead:

Have you checked to see if any of the (four) infamous little plastic linkage bushing/retainers have broken and fallen out of the IMRC actuator gizmo? It's near the serpertine belt on top of the engine.

It's a 2001 and apparently that year only came out with the 3.8 and I do have 132,000 on the engine.

Sorry I didn't point that out. :banghead:

Yeah and sorry I didn't ask. All my blathering and the photo link are somewhat mis-leading then. Your van's IMRC's still function the same, are in the same place, but are electrically actuated. As 12Ounce said, you may have lost one of the small plastic bushings that hold the actuator arm in the valve. However, since the position is sensed in the actuator, I'd say it is probably not operating. Could be unplugged, loosely connected, a fuse, or of course failed.

Are there any problems with the operation? You said you were back on 6 cylinders and that the coil fixed the misfire. Is there something else that would tell you there was something wrong with it, other than the CEL? I ask because the people at Auto-Zone will read a code for free, but will NOT clear a code. Now that you aren't misfiring, maybe the engine just hasn't chosen to clear the code yet. What I mean is that usually a vehicle computer will require a certain number of passing test cycles before it will clear a code by itself. So the computer may need to sense that a certain test passes a few more times to clear the code.
One thing to try would be to disconnect from the negative battery terminal, leaveit for at least 5 minutes, then come back and connect. This *may* clear the codes. If, then, you still get a CEL, get it read again. It's always preferable to start with a clean slate.
Ogre

Yes, I did 'clear' the computer memory by removing the neg. terminal.

THe code still comes up as P1518. I heard this 'repair' is quite costly and really not needed.

Now, I have to register the car next month and I must have the smog certificate. I am obviously trying to get along spending as little money as possible on this car becuase I will be buying a new car hopefully in about a year and a half.

My new question is will I pass smog with this IMRC intake runner open? Something tells me I won't.

The repair shoult NOT be expensive on your model. (It may still be covered under warranty???).

Your car will not pass emission tests if you have codes.