2000 3.8L H20 Pump Repair

After my "Y-tube" broke off inside the old water pump, I decided I might as well replace the whole pump anyways, seems to be a 4-8 hour job and I've wasted that much time already trying to get the old tube out of the old pump. At 94,000 miles might as well replace it. That being said. I read the Haynes guide for replacing the pump as well as some posts here and am a bit intimidated. I think I bought all necessary parts but need advice. The photo in the Haynes book doesn't look like my 3.8 as far as removing the serpentine belt. I think I found the right pulley (13mm right?) and do you turn it clockwise to release tension? IF so that thing is tight. Also to remove the engine bolts so you remove the bolts from the bottom or the top of the mounts. Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated! This forum has opened my eyes to what a "disaster waiting to happen " my old van is. Prior to stumbling on to this site, I thought I had a pretty decent van. CEL is on and off, I've not done the isolator bolt repair yet, If I can conquer the water pump I will try that next, the cowel is already removed anyways, and even though I am slow, its still cheaper than what I was quoted at a dealer and garage! Thanks in advance!

I just tackled this job a couple months ago. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=652626
It's intimidating, but not too bad. I found the Haynes to be not very helpful. I think the pictures they show are off a pre-99 Winny which may be slightly different. Use the posts on this forum.
Take the alternator off to remove the belt-it should come off anyway to get the pump bolts off. To put the belt on, run it around all of the pulleys except the smooth pump pulley. Put your wrench on the tensioner through the wheel well and crank hard counterclockwise-the pulley will move. Apparently, there is a way to hold the tensioner in place while you install the belt but I wedged my wrench with a block of wood. Much easier with two people!
I would suggest replacing the lower metal tube that hooks up to the lower radiator hose-mine was just about shot and it has to come off anyway. ($30 from Ford.) ALso, replace the lower rad hose with Motorcraft. I tried two aftermarkets and they didn't fit right.

Take it slow and use the forum if you have questions. Good luck.

good advice, one last thing did you raise your motor and the van or just the motor. Can you remove this pump from the top or do you need to be under it a fair amount of the job? thx

good advice, one last thing did you raise your motor and the van or just the motor. Can you remove this pump from the top or do you need to be under it a fair amount of the job? thx

Hi

I just raised the engine. Pulled the right side engine mount bolts (1 fwd, 1 aft) from the bottom, then jacked the right side up 3-4". Be sure to safety the engine before you start working in there - I was able to lay a length of 2X4 on its side under the front engine mount on top of the frame and let the weight sit on that. I did the whole job from the top. As was mentioned you will want to remove the alternator, and I think I pulled the idler pulley too just for a bit more room. Here is an autozone link for info on the 95-98 windstars. Should be similar.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/30/42/0900823d801d3042.jsp

I used the illustration and the new pump to guide me to the bolts required to get the pump off. Keep them organized so you can put them back in the same place as they very in length. On the lower rear bolts (actually nuts) you may find yourself pulling out a stud from the front cover as the nut is somewhat seized to the stud. To put it back in, just add a second nut over the top of the original, run the stud in until the old nut binds and is tight, then back off your "added" nut. As I may have stated earlier, I had a bear of a time with the lower rad hose, so you might try putting it in while the pump is out, getting it secured a the the rad end, then trying to line up and insert the pump inlet pipe as you place the pump into place - it may prove impossible to do at that point, but I can tell you it was very hard to get it into place once the pump was installed.

As to pulling the belt- there is not really much room to get a wrench on the tensioner - at least on the '96 - so I now use the "strong arm" technique other's here told me about. If you place your left hand over the belt and power steering pulley to hold it from slipping/turning, then grab the belt just behind the alternator and pull -really hard mind you - you can lift it right off of the alternator and it is loose. To put it back, thread it over everything but the smooth idler pulley. Pull the tension off, and slide it over the pulley. Works great. Feels impossibly difficult the first try or two, but then becomes simple once you work out a method.

Best of luck

I have done a few Ford Taurus. It was tight as well... 3.8. I will say this. Don't waste time with the paper gasket.. Use Blue RTV..Versa Chem super blue 613 type.. Advanced auto,Napa,Autozone Pep-boys have it... Did the first Taurus cleaned the old gasket off smooth and nice put the paper gasket back, leaked liked crazy..I toss the paper gasket and use RTV only let it sit 10-15 min then becareful not to mess up the bead of RTV.. Then if its a days job dont start until the next day even wait until the next day before you put water back in it. Thats the only draw back with the blue RTV. If you dont wait long enough it will leak... Used it on thermostats before and found it to be a problem if i did not let it sit for most of the day. It does take 24 hours to cure on the instructions but I know at least 8-12 hours should do..Hope this helps...

Thanks to all the advice here, this repair went well, I just took my time and laid out everything I took off the van on a large sheet of buther paper on my workbench. That way I can label everything and any notes about where it came from or how to put it together while it is still in my mind. Save time trying to remember orientation etc. The only issue I had was lowering the engine back onto the frame. The rear bolt wouldn't line up with the hole. You can nudge it over with a long broom handle from the wheel well while a helper slowly lowers the motor. All in all a very doable repair. Now I still have my CEL and a new noisey power steering pump. No shortage of projects for a windstar owner. Thanks everyone:grinyes: