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1999 Suburban Door Lock Problems


jay.smith
09-25-2002, 02:09 PM
My 1999 Suburban door locks don't always work, from either the key fob or the door controls. The lock latch will only go part of the way down or up. It seems to happen on different doors every time. My parents and my in-laws also have 1999 suburbans and they report similiar problems with the door locks.

Any ideas how what this problem is?

Jay Smith

bowtiebandit
01-12-2003, 08:03 AM
Hat to say this but this is ot that uncommon. Have repaired several burbs and tahoes with this concern. Yes it will probably need all door lock actuators.

tim_alabim
03-11-2003, 06:47 AM
what is the method of accessing the actuator for replacement. do i need to drill out the rivets, or is there a better way of getting to them.

carterhar
04-29-2003, 11:56 AM
I also have this problem . Does anyone one know how to fix it.

tossem
05-21-2003, 03:37 AM
I guess this a problem they have always had and will continue to have. I have a 95 sub and this has always been a problem. It has mainly been with the two right side doors. The front passenger has been tempremental as it sometimes works and suddenly fails to function. I have to check that all the locks are down when exiting the sub. The funny part is it works sometimes out of the blue for a while before quiting again. I never looked into as I had planned to install an alarm system, but time has slipped away and I have never had it tampered with. I would have thought they would have had it fixed by now......

tymat
08-08-2003, 12:54 AM
You don't remove the rivets. There are 3 bolts that you remove inside the door. There is room to get a 1/4 ratchet and extension on them. They are on the underside of the actuator bracket. (the thing that is riveted on) The bolts go up through the bracket and through the actuator. They thread into the metal solinoid cap. At first I thought when I removed them they solinoid cap would come off. When all the screws are out the cap is secure. They just hold the actuator in place. With the bolts out , just up-plug the unit, slide the lock arm out of the rubber flange and wiggle it out to the side and it will come out at the bottom of the door. To install just do the reverse.

The dealer wanted $98 an actuator. I found a web site for A1 electronics in Gardenia California. They were only $36. The best thing to do is match your actuator to the pictures of actuators on the site. There was no listing for the 1999 Suburban. But I found the perfect match under Elcamino. Turn around was 3 days. It is also a good idea to pick up some spare door panel clips at the dealer. They go for about a buck a piece. You can count of breaking a few when you pull off the panels.

It took me about 2 hours to do all three. The new ones work great.

blueburbboober
08-08-2003, 04:18 PM
great tips tymat, but ill do you one better.

im replacing mine right now, you can get the actuators for 29.95 each if you mention the ebay ad online. the company is a1 auto out of massachusettes. they only charged me 11 bucks shipping for all five, not 7 apiece like they want online. the phone number is 1-888-844-3393. and the metal cap DOES come off after you pull the three bolts out, it just pops on. im not sure if there is a way to maybe clean them, im lookin into that right now. i plan on keeping the old ones just incase there is. ill keep you all posted if i get more info. check out my other post on getting the door panels off, it may help a LOT.

-Rob-

BGreeson
10-29-2003, 06:31 PM
I have purchased actuators. ($30) Can anyone tell me how to remove the door trim or recomend a repair manual for purchase? Chilton does not list one for 1999 Suburban. (off year) Pick-up models changed but not suburban.

blueburbboober
10-30-2003, 11:09 AM
im not positive if your door panels are exatly the smae as the ones in my 95, but im sure they havent changed much, check out my other post, itll walk you through it. i tried to find a shop manual that would tell me, and i couldnt. trial and error was all i had, so i hope my other post helps some. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=123036

miked79928
03-08-2007, 06:51 PM
I also had problems with the locks on my 1999 suburban. I recently discovered that the keyless entry receiver was bad. Picked one up for about $150 and fixed the preoblem.

Shannonrps
03-31-2007, 12:07 PM
I read that if you use a penetrating oil or WD-40 on the door latches that this might free them up. I just sprayed mine this morning so I'll have to wait and see. May be worth a try.

flumerfelt
06-21-2007, 06:25 AM
im not positive if your door panels are exatly the smae as the ones in my 95, but im sure they havent changed much, check out my other post, itll walk you through it. i tried to find a shop manual that would tell me, and i couldnt. trial and error was all i had, so i hope my other post helps some. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=123036
I am sure the answer has already been found however, the link below talks about mirror replacement but you must remove the door panels to do that, I am new to this forum hopefully this is the way to do it. like me there are always people looking for the answer could be years after the initial post, so try the following link it has pictures and step by step procedures. http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000040.pdf (http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000040.pdf)

nedudgi
08-18-2007, 08:53 PM
Just bought a 97 Burb LT (to replace my old 97 Police Special :-) the wireless remote, both front door push buttons, and the rear side button open and close the drivers door only, the 3 passenger doors would not power open or close, not even click, but they can be opened and locked manually. Rear hatch/latch (glass flip up hatch) opens with push button on dash but not on the remote (remote is aftermarket Audiovox Premier alarm with single button to open and lock and second button to release "trunk"
Any help would be appreciated.

miklik
02-19-2008, 12:26 PM
I just got thruough replacing all 5 of the door lock actuator on my 99 burb. Not a hard job to replace them. Took a few hours and it does get tight at times getting to the 3, 1/4in bolt that hold them on the mounting bracket. My burb has barn doors and I did drill out the rivets on the that door lock. I then just bolted the mounting bracket back on with 2, 1/4" bolts. I would also pick up some door pannel fasteners before you start. I broke half a dozen. Good luck and it is nice to have all my door locks working again.

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