might be just another abs trac light thread

past few weeks iv had several problems, and i thinks they may be related. first off 00 gtp 100,000m. my route to and from work is under construction and the bumps and holes are the worst iv seen. i noticed at highway speeds the car was shuttering a bit, but would shutter excessively if i was on the accelerating or decellerating.noticable beginning at 60 gets worse to about 80, and stays the same 80 and above. just this morning my abs and trac control lights came on. home from work just trac light. then none. then both. i slammed the brakes and the wheels locked. for a few minutes after the front end sounded clunky.now its fine again. lots of threads about abs trac lights, but none mentioned the front end issues.any ideas on what im looking at here? i also began getting hvac blower issues the same few days, but im guessing thats unrelated. ?

Best thing to do is get it scanned with an ABS capable scanner.

IT's rare, but I've had hub bearings that will get noisy, then quiet down. With you rcombination of symptoms, I'd say you have a bad front hub bearing. Jack the car up and grab the tire at different positions. If you have free play all around, then it's a hub bearing. If there is no free play, then as bnaylor suggested, you'll have to scan it with an ABS capable scanner to determine why those lights are on. The blower issue I believe is unrelated. If you have other electrical gremlins like the DIC, daytime running lamps, etc... acting up, your ignition switch/harness could be going bad. If there are no other electrical issues, you probably have a bad blower resistor (manual A/C) or blower module (auto climate control).

thanks for the help. i wasnt able to check anything yet, it was 19 degees today. if i do need to have a wheel hub replaced what kind of financial damage will i be looking at?

any price estimates?

any price estimates?

Just parts or parts and labor?

The hubs can vary in cost from around $99 - $180. It depends on the name and quality. You can get AC Delco hubs for around $150.00. Other suitable aftermarkets are Timken and BCA- National.

Labor costs vary and can run up to a couple of hundred dollars. It you can DIY you can save money on the labor. Special tools like a 36mm axle nut, big breaker bar, torque wrench and possibly a hub puller are required.

Checkout our new Tips & Maintenance section for a tech procedure.

150 is fine. i dont have ALL of the tools you mentioned. should i try it myself or pay? what, youd say400 $ total?

150 is fine. i dont have ALL of the tools you mentioned. should i try it myself or pay? what, youd say400 $ total?

If I did not have the knowledge, tools or capability to do the work DIY and after getting a few estimates confirming that is the going rate probably so. However, I believe around $300 would be more reasonable even with an AC Delco hub.

Hubs are not a technically difficult job (about the same abilities as doing your own brakes). The special tools needed can be rented for free at Auto Zone if you have one in your area. The most important part is buying a quality brand name hub (no white box China Garbage), and torquing everything to spec by hand, NO IMPACT TOOLS!!! I did the front brakes and one hub on my mom's Monte Carlo in about 1 to 1-1/2 hours, without ever firing up my compressor and only using hand tools/hand jack/jackstands (no hoist). Granted I'm pretty good with a wrench and have quite a bit of experience, but this is a job you should be able to tackle yourself if you want to save some $$$$.

I've found the problem to my "ABS/TRAC" Lights. The connection from the hub to the car's computer (I'm guessing) that contains the sensor was broken after hitting a huge pot hole. I put a wire tie on it temporarily until i can find out cost of part and labor if possible to replace.:shakehead

really appreciate the help everyone. il let you know how it turns out

ok heres the update. i checked the hubs, and both fronts were bad. i took it to my machanic and had them replaced along with crearing the codes for abs trac control.abs and trac light never went off. he scanned the codes and ran through the alldata prcedures. the codes it turned up were co550 and co244. he said he thinks the ebtcm is bad, but didnt want to replace it if thats not the definite cause. anyone have any suggestions for me? if it is the ebtcm, i saw a few for sale from a gt. i didnt know if that would work in a gtp. i appreciate any help

The brake module from any 99-03 GTP will work (GM#88894774), but one from a GT or SE will not work as they are different.

thanks for the help. at least i know what im looking for. as far as those codes do you think the ebtcm module is the problem?

thanks for the help. at least i know what im looking for. as far as those codes do you think the ebtcm module is the problem?

The problem is those are generic ABS/Chassis DTCs and really don't tell you enough about whether your EBTCM module is bad. It depends on what scanner was used. Doesn't look like a GM Tech 2. I have no listing for the C0244 DTC, C0550 means "ECU Malfunction."

back again. after having the hubs replaced with rotors for almost a grand, symptoms were better but not perfect and still abs trac light. symptoms started coming back graduually. now its worse than before hub replacement. i checked the hubs and they seem ok this time. symtoms in addition to lights are. wobbly feeling like the hub problem, gets bad at 50 and above, worse while accelerating and awful while braking. while braking from highway speed the steering wheel shakes prett bad. there is also a bit of a grinding sound while braking or turning. i tried the turning the wheel while parked thing and i do hear a bit of a clunk. does this sound like a cv joint problem? i guess i should take it somewhere with a good abs scanner reguardless, but could this set the abs tcs lights? finally would most shops have a good abs scanner or should i just take it to a dealer? apparently the last place i brought it to had a junk scanner since no one here ever heard of those codes before. what a headache. i appreciate everyones help. yet again

FIrst off... a few questions.

What brand hubs did you install?
Did they use an impact wrench on the axle nut?
Did they torque the axle nut to spec with a hand torque wrench?

IF they installed cheapo "white box" chinese made hubs, they may still be teh issue.

IF they used an impact wrench and/or didn't torque the axle nut to the specified torque value, the hubs could still be the issue, as the hammering action ruins the abs sensor and the torque pre-loads the bearing assembly and helps hold it together.

pretty sure they were cheap hubs, because the rotors and pads were done whit the new hubs. pads seem cheap, dont stop good. not sure how the hubs were installed. im just thinking i should be able to tell if its the hubs because the ride feels worse than before they were replaced, and i could move the wheel almost an inch before. they feel pretty solid.

turns out to be the ebtcm itself. wow is that expensive. can someone tell me where its located. i think ill try a junkyard before i cough up all that cash to the dealer.

Hope I'm not too late. Go to www.modulemasters.com (http://www.modulemasters.com). They will rebuild your EBCM for $150 bucks. You can take it off the car and STILL DRIVE IT. You just won't have anti-lock. Call them first at the number on the webpage. Beats paying 900 bucks for anew one.

Dave

Eeek! Sorry, it's modulemaster, not modulemasters.com

Hope I'm not too late. Go to www.modulemasters.com (http://www.modulemasters.com). They will rebuild your EBCM for $150 bucks. You can take it off the car and STILL DRIVE IT. You just won't have anti-lock. Call them first at the number on the webpage. Beats paying 900 bucks for anew one.

Dave

Sounds like you are too late. See link below. Also, not always the case with removing the EBTCM module and still driving the car.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=738376



Remove the Module

Most people have reported successful removal of the ABS controller without disconnection of the brake lines. However, you may have to disconnect all five (5) hydraulic lines for success if the roads are salted and the Torx T20 bolts are rusted in place. In such circumstance, it is best to remove the entire ABS assembly from the truck for easier removal of the ABS controller by drilling out the bolt heads.

There is very little room to access these four bolts under the truck in such stubborn cases. It is suggested that you disconnect the lines and remove the entire assembly. Take the assembly to a workbench or drill press to drill/grind the heads off of the bolts. If this sounds too ugly and disconnecting the five brake lines will ruin your day; you can instead remove the three hex head bolts attaching the ABS pump/manifold to the vehicle frame and CAREFULLY lower it. You must support the heavy pump assembly so you don't kink the brake lines. Then you will have room to get a small grinder or Dremel Tool to grind the heads off of the evil rusted bolts.

Be sure to order the EBCM Repair Kit to replace rusted or stripped out Torx ABS module bolts

Removal of any of the brake lines will require bleeding of the brakes upon re-installation. Your vehicle is probably overdue for a brake fluid flush anyways. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) and the water molecules will congregate in the lowest parts of the brake system eventually corroding critical brake components. Modern vehicles should have their brake fluid flushed on a regular basis; so you are providing your vehicle a much needed service in the process of this repair.

Also, $150 sounds a bit much for a rebuilt unit. There are other options and I don't believe the OP spent that much.