Odometer/Speedometer ABS
Edisto
12-16-2006, 04:26 PM
2000 Ford Windstar
3.8 l
115k Miles
Recent work: Replaced wheel hub assembly and steering knuckle (brakes/rotors as well).
Approximately 500 miles after completeing the above work my speedometer (analog) stopped working and my odometer (digital) went to -------- .
My ABS had been coming on after driving a short distance (actually rolling, not just running). This was happening before the above work was done.
I have not checked the number 10 fuse yet, but I was curious if the ABS was in any way related to this? If not any suggestion as to what's wrong with the ABS light? Thanks!
I hope to do the work myself. I do have the Haynes manual.
3.8 l
115k Miles
Recent work: Replaced wheel hub assembly and steering knuckle (brakes/rotors as well).
Approximately 500 miles after completeing the above work my speedometer (analog) stopped working and my odometer (digital) went to -------- .
My ABS had been coming on after driving a short distance (actually rolling, not just running). This was happening before the above work was done.
I have not checked the number 10 fuse yet, but I was curious if the ABS was in any way related to this? If not any suggestion as to what's wrong with the ABS light? Thanks!
I hope to do the work myself. I do have the Haynes manual.
wiswind
12-16-2006, 08:21 PM
ABS light comes on if the brake fluid level is low.
On my '96, and from what I have read, the low level trip point is real sensitive....right at the "full" line on the master cylinder.
So....check the easy and cheap first.....make sure the master cylinder is just above the full line.
Otherwise, you will need to have the codes read to find out what the problem is. The codes will tell you if it is a problem with one of the sensors.....and which wheel......and specifically what the problem is.
As a side note.......the ABS does a kind of "self test" once the vehicle starts to move.......You can feel the ABS activate for just a moment when this happens.....a small sound.
From what you describe about the light coming on at just that point.....it sounds like the self test is failing for some reason.
Of course, I would want to jump right on the recent work that was done.....but that is not always the case.
First thing......the speedometer not working......
Unless something was changed from what I understand from my '96.....the analog speedometer is driven by a cable that comes up out of the transaxle. There is a "Vehicle Speed Sensor aka VSS" inside the transaxle.....back side of it......middle......a search on this forum will give you some posts of people having to replace it.....kind of a pain to do from what they have posted....Alldata instructions have you remove the "Y" pipe....which is the catalytic converters.
The self test that the ABS is doing is a comparison of the signals coming from all the wheel sensors and comparing them to see if all the wheels are giving the correct signal.
I do not know if the speedometer provides an input to this or not.
I DO know that the PCM provides a speed reading to the OBDII port,.....I have the analog speedometer as well.....and the point is, that it is also a signal.......and if so....it could be a needed signal for the ABS....but I do not know.....perhaps someone more experienced than I can be of more help.
Looking at the schematic on alldata, it is not apparent that the speed sensor for the speedometer is involved with the ABS.....although I only have access to the diagrams for 1996.
You can try to check and see that the wires to the wheel sensors are intact and connected. In the front....if one of the sensor wires falls out of it's clip....it is possible for it to catch on the tire when you turn.
It is also possible for the gap between the sensor and the gear like exciter ring to be too big......from bumping the sensor while working in there.
Compare 1 side to the other to see if there is a problem with the gap.
On my '96, and from what I have read, the low level trip point is real sensitive....right at the "full" line on the master cylinder.
So....check the easy and cheap first.....make sure the master cylinder is just above the full line.
Otherwise, you will need to have the codes read to find out what the problem is. The codes will tell you if it is a problem with one of the sensors.....and which wheel......and specifically what the problem is.
As a side note.......the ABS does a kind of "self test" once the vehicle starts to move.......You can feel the ABS activate for just a moment when this happens.....a small sound.
From what you describe about the light coming on at just that point.....it sounds like the self test is failing for some reason.
Of course, I would want to jump right on the recent work that was done.....but that is not always the case.
First thing......the speedometer not working......
Unless something was changed from what I understand from my '96.....the analog speedometer is driven by a cable that comes up out of the transaxle. There is a "Vehicle Speed Sensor aka VSS" inside the transaxle.....back side of it......middle......a search on this forum will give you some posts of people having to replace it.....kind of a pain to do from what they have posted....Alldata instructions have you remove the "Y" pipe....which is the catalytic converters.
The self test that the ABS is doing is a comparison of the signals coming from all the wheel sensors and comparing them to see if all the wheels are giving the correct signal.
I do not know if the speedometer provides an input to this or not.
I DO know that the PCM provides a speed reading to the OBDII port,.....I have the analog speedometer as well.....and the point is, that it is also a signal.......and if so....it could be a needed signal for the ABS....but I do not know.....perhaps someone more experienced than I can be of more help.
Looking at the schematic on alldata, it is not apparent that the speed sensor for the speedometer is involved with the ABS.....although I only have access to the diagrams for 1996.
You can try to check and see that the wires to the wheel sensors are intact and connected. In the front....if one of the sensor wires falls out of it's clip....it is possible for it to catch on the tire when you turn.
It is also possible for the gap between the sensor and the gear like exciter ring to be too big......from bumping the sensor while working in there.
Compare 1 side to the other to see if there is a problem with the gap.
Rotorman
12-17-2006, 02:43 PM
2000 Ford Windstar
3.8 l
115k Miles
Recent work: Replaced wheel hub assembly and steering knuckle (brakes/rotors as well).
Approximately 500 miles after completeing the above work my speedometer (analog) stopped working and my odometer (digital) went to -------- .
My ABS had been coming on after driving a short distance (actually rolling, not just running). This was happening before the above work was done.
I have not checked the number 10 fuse yet, but I was curious if the ABS was in any way related to this? If not any suggestion as to what's wrong with the ABS light? Thanks!
I hope to do the work myself. I do have the Haynes manual.
You did not mention if the abs light is on when you start up the vehicle. No not the self test function. If it is off before the vehicle moves I bet its the rear wheel bearings. To chech these jack up the vehicle with the tire on and try to move the tire left or right. If it does adjust them or replace them. Wish you luck.
3.8 l
115k Miles
Recent work: Replaced wheel hub assembly and steering knuckle (brakes/rotors as well).
Approximately 500 miles after completeing the above work my speedometer (analog) stopped working and my odometer (digital) went to -------- .
My ABS had been coming on after driving a short distance (actually rolling, not just running). This was happening before the above work was done.
I have not checked the number 10 fuse yet, but I was curious if the ABS was in any way related to this? If not any suggestion as to what's wrong with the ABS light? Thanks!
I hope to do the work myself. I do have the Haynes manual.
You did not mention if the abs light is on when you start up the vehicle. No not the self test function. If it is off before the vehicle moves I bet its the rear wheel bearings. To chech these jack up the vehicle with the tire on and try to move the tire left or right. If it does adjust them or replace them. Wish you luck.
Kashey
12-17-2006, 05:22 PM
Hold the trip computer button down then start the engine. When "test" (or "Check" don't remember exactly) appears depress the button. Now you are in test mode. Press the button again. It'll test your instrument cluster. All needless will go up and down. Also you can test rpms and speed by pressing the button few more times and take the car for a drive. You will see your RPMs or Speed on small trip computer display. Both cluster test and rpm and speed test will show you if or or your cluster is bad or your sensors are bad.
ABS - most luckily it's your ABS sensors. They are easy to replace but pricy.
Another possibility is your break fluid level sensor.
ABS - most luckily it's your ABS sensors. They are easy to replace but pricy.
Another possibility is your break fluid level sensor.
Edisto
12-17-2006, 08:53 PM
I replaced the Number 10 fuse and I have my odometer and speedometer back (as well as back up sensors). So far it has not blown again.
The ABS light comes on when I turn the key, as do all the other lights, then it turns off. After approximately 45 seconds of driving, the ABS light comes on and starys on.
The ABS light comes on when I turn the key, as do all the other lights, then it turns off. After approximately 45 seconds of driving, the ABS light comes on and starys on.
Kashey
12-17-2006, 09:57 PM
I had same problem. I fix it by replacing rear ABS sensor.
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