Battery Cables

I made my own battery cables from some #2 AWG stranded copper they had at Advanced Auto Parts.

For the connection to the ground at the transmission and to the starter I got some copper spade type lug connectors. I was wondering, how would y'all recommend attaching the connectors to the cable.

As a temporary measure I used a hex crimper that is intended for coaxial cable connectors and it's on tight but I'm affraid it may come loose.

I am thinking of dripping some solder into it but I trimmed the insulation jacket just perfectly so there's no bare cable exposed and there's not much room for something as sloppy.

Any suggestions?

It'd take more than just dripping solder anyway. You'd need to get both the wire and the connector hot enough for the solder to flow completely and create a solid connection.

That said, I'm a big fan of soldering - though it takes some work to correctly solder large cables. Yes, you'd have to trim back some of the insulation - but it's a ground; extra insulation isn't buying you anything anyway.

A good auto parts store should have lug connectors designed for that size of cable that have either some kind of threaded connection (i.e., you just tighted it) or perhaps a set screw.

It'd take more than just dripping solder anyway. You'd need to get both the wire and the connector hot enough for the solder to flow completely and create a solid connection.

I have a propane torch!

That said, I'm a big fan of soldering - though it takes some work to correctly solder large cables. Yes, you'd have to trim back some of the insulation - but it's a ground; extra insulation isn't buying you anything anyway.

I don't have much experience soldering, but I want to work with what I have. So, I should trim back the insulation a little, heat up the lug and cable until it's hot enough to melt the solder itself, the solder should flow into all the gaps if it's hot enough, correct?

A good auto parts store should have lug connectors designed for that size of cable that have either some kind of threaded connection (i.e., you just tighted it) or perhaps a set screw.

I got the lugs at Advanced and they are sized to fit the cable but I didn't notice any threaded ones or ones with set screws.

I've used screw-on type connectors for other electrical work and I'm not a big fan, they tend to come loose eventually in my experience.

I need to connect the fuse box cable to the main positive and the ground to the main negative the same way I assume? Right now I have the strands from each kind of braided together and held tight by the batter connector.

These are big, bad-ass cables and I want a permanent connection.

I have a propane torch!



I don't have much experience soldering, but I want to work with what I have. So, I should trim back the insulation a little, heat up the lug and cable until it's hot enough to melt the solder itself, the solder should flow into all the gaps if it's hot enough, correct?



I got the lugs at Advanced and they are sized to fit the cable but I didn't notice any threaded ones or ones with set screws.

I've used screw-on type connectors for other electrical work and I'm not a big fan, they tend to come loose eventually in my experience.

I need to connect the fuse box cable to the main positive and the ground to the main negative the same way I assume? Right now I have the strands from each kind of braided together and held tight by the batter connector.

These are big, bad-ass cables and I want a permanent connection.

There's some heat shrink tubing available at most radio shack stores. They work by slipping them over the joint and heat shrink them with a hair dryer or a soldering gun . I don't know if they make the size you want but its a very clean and tight joint. Good luck

If they are a crimp style connector, crimp....for a good mechanical connection, then solder.
Get both the wire strands and the connector hot.....add solder slowly, letting it flow into the connector.
That will give you a super good connection.

DO NOT use plumbing solder which has a core of acid flux that will cause corrosion of the connection.....use electronic solder.

You can clean the connection with alcohol and a stiff brush after soldering to remove the rosin flux that is in the electronic solder.

Thanks for the tips guys!

If you do it, let us know how the solder joint works out.

If you do it, let us know how the solder joint works out.

I certainly will. I plan on doing that this weekend, probably tonight.

Just another note....don't overdo it with the torch.....
Heat the connector and wire end up....then with the torch over the connector, add solder to the bare strands of the wire where they go into the connector.
The solder will flow toward the heat.....into the connector.
It does not take a lot of solder......more is not better.
Let cool on it's own.....and don't move the unit around until it is cool.