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Vacuum Readings


fixit1070
10-23-2006, 12:32 PM
Does any one know what the vacuum reading should be at the manifold line that goes to the brake booster ?

busboy4
10-23-2006, 03:43 PM
Hi
I did not see a specific number during a cursory look through my shop manual. However, on a previous job after repairing a hole in the vacuum line to my A/C interior vacuum motors, I measured around 13"/hg as I recall. It is pulled off of the intake manifold next to the brake line so I guess it ought to be pretty similar.

Good Luck

garync1
10-24-2006, 05:12 PM
Does any one know what the vacuum reading should be at the manifold line that goes to the brake booster ?
I remember your post before did you replace the booster?? As for the pressure there is not a whole lot that goes into it onces it fills up the check valve keeps it from drawing back in. As you use the brakes more air is allowed in. A cheap replacement would be the line and check valve. If the booster does not pass its leak test..then it would need replacing.

fixit1070
11-08-2006, 07:36 AM
I did replace the booster and still the pedal seems to have to much travel and it feels soft(no change, same as with the old booster).The only part that has not been replaced is the porportioning valve that is mounted on the frame rail. I am not sure how to proceed ,I can drive the van but I still think the brakes are to soft. Any Ideas ??

chasealley
11-08-2006, 03:18 PM
I have no idea if my van is operating correctly, but when I bought it I thought the brakes were too soft. The fluid was full, and an inspection showed full brake linings. Previous owner said the dealer just did them....but it looked to me that the rotors were too 'groovy' to have been machined in the process.

In other words, I find my van a bit hard to stop compared to other vehicles I've had, but when I've driven it exclusively I find it fine.

If you haven't had the brakes bled professionally (at the dealer using the scan-tool supplied ABS brake-bleed procedure) then you may want to fork over some money for that and see if it helps - once you are sure no more work needs to be done. Also, if you live in a high humidity area like the coast, you may consider changing the brake fluid as this can soak up a significant amount of humidity and make the pedal a bit spongier (about 7% I think).

Now that I'm done spewing, maybe someone has some experience with this??

fixit1070
11-08-2006, 09:27 PM
The system has been completly bled several times using all methods,I am starting to think what I have is normal even though it does not seem to be.I had all the pads replaced ,the rear cylinders, the rotors replaced and the master cylinder and booster replaced.The mechanic who worked on it seems to be puzzled why the brakes feel the way they do but he spent 20 or more hours troubleshoot ing the systema dn still no diffrence.I guess this is what I am stuck with.

Thanks for all the advice ,If anyone else seems to know what else to try please let me know.:banghead:

chasealley
11-08-2006, 10:26 PM
I guess my suggestion then would be to take it to another mechanic.

I just had a family member take a car in to the shop today. They pulled the old "we didn't find anything wrong, but need $45 for our time anyway."

There is a time when a professional needs to admit he's stumped. Some of these things may be specific to the type of vehicle, the year it was made or even the plant it came out of. Best thing to do now is to try another mechanic, and I would suggest a dealer because they can do a check in their system on outstanding problems.
It seems like you've put a lot of time and money into working with this guy. Get out now and find someone who can fix it for you.

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