Windstar 2002: Can't get caliper over new brake pads....

sorry this is my first time doing this..

the opening in the caliper is about 2" and the new pads + rotor is almost 2 1/2

i know the piston(or something else) has to be depressed but how? there is two large ring like 'things' inside the caliper..should i try to depress them?(they are rock solid!) i just don't want to damage anything.

anybody done this before for this windstar?

Take a C clamp a 3.00 buck item if you go to right place. Get a 4 or 6 inch C clamp. And Turn it in slowley to depress the caliper. Be carefull the the brake fluid resivior does not over flow. You should be ok, if not a turkey baster will help remove extra fluid. Just make sure it not over filled.

Take a C clamp a 3.00 buck item if you go to right place. Get a 4 or 6 inch C clamp. And Turn it in slowley to depress the caliper. Be carefull the the brake fluid resivior does not over flow. You should be ok, if not a turkey baster will help remove extra fluid. Just make sure it not over filled.

do i depress till it 'just' fits over the new brakes? the caliper will readjust itself right?

You can turn it in tell it stops or fits. Yes it will re-adjust it self.

sorry this is my first time doing this..

the opening in the caliper is about 2" and the new pads + rotor is almost 2 1/2

i know the piston(or something else) has to be depressed but how? there is two large ring like 'things' inside the caliper..should i try to depress them?(they are rock solid!) i just don't want to damage anything.

anybody done this before for this windstar?

Welcome to AF
Are you working on the front or rear brakes?
The advice given is good for front brakes.
If rear disk brakes post back.
And remember when you get it all back together always pump up the brakes befor putting it in gear.
If not you may not have brake the first time you press the pedal.:grinyes:
MT

thank you everybody for your replies i am going to buy the 6" clamp and try it. all this is just for Front brakes.

rear brakes next weekend. i'm sure there will be a lot of questions there.

thank you everybody for your replies i am going to buy the 6" clamp and try it. all this is just for Front brakes.

rear brakes next weekend. i'm sure there will be a lot of questions there.
I am glad u said 6" inch clamp. Because I went down stairs to my tool room and notice the 6 is what I use the 4 inch will work but you do have to fight with it a little to get it on. The 4 inch just makes it on. When caliper piston is out. But have used both and the 6 is far easier.

I am glad u said 6" inch clamp. Because I went down stairs to my tool room and notice the 6 is what I use the 4 inch will work but you do have to fight with it a little to get it on. The 4 inch just makes it on. When caliper piston is out. But have used both and the 6 is far easier.


Clamp or sometimes a large pair of channel lock pliers will do it.

When you get to the rear it may be a different story.
Depending on the E brake set up.
Some rear calipers you have to use a special tool to screw them in.
Good Luck
And do not forget to pump up the brake pedal first thing when done.
MT

bought a 5" clamp for almost $14 bigones(canadian).

worked pretty good...after i was finished noticed the brake light was on....and thought to myself here we go....:banghead:........and then i noticed after a little bit of driving ......parking brake!! :p

anybody done the rear brakes on their windstar? i could sure use a walkthrough or something similar if someone has it..i'm sure the back is a lot more complicated than the front.

thanksall!

bought a 5" clamp for almost $14 bigones(canadian).

worked pretty good...after i was finished noticed the brake light was on....and thought to myself here we go....:banghead:........and then i noticed after a little bit of driving ......parking brake!! :p

anybody done the rear brakes on their windstar? i could sure use a walkthrough or something similar if someone has it..i'm sure the back is a lot more complicated than the front.

thanksall!
Do you have rear drum or disk.??

Do you have rear drum or disk.??
drum sir! would i need anyspecial tools for this?

another quick question. is there a picture around(maybe from ford?) that shows the best spots for stand placement after you have the vehicle jacked up.

thanks

I would suggest you buy or borough a Chilton repair book (Haynes is marginal but will work aswell) or download the Ford repair manual from www.fordcds.com. Thay have step by step instructions for disassembly and assembly and special procedures that may need to be applied during the work process.
Also if you decide to do the rear brakes, I recommend that you do a wheel at the time. That way if you get mixed up as to what goes where you still have the other side for refence.

The drums will be tricky.. Good brake tools are good but i have used the following. Hammer,rubber hammer to knock off the rear drums if they dont come off by hand. Big nose or reg pliers and medium neddle nose pliers. Vise grips, and flat head screw driver. U need to have jack stands so you can have both wheels off the ground so you can uses the other side to look at if you run into problems. The flat head screw driver you need too be long so you can remove the long springs that run at the top and bottom. Reg pliers will take the retaining springs off,channel locks will help hold C clip still while you spread them apart with a flat head screw driver, medium neddle nose will close the c clip back I broke
small neddle nose pliers before doing this so I use medium. U can adjust the brakes with drum off.I find easier because usally the drums will be a little hard to get on and thats how I know when I turn the drums by hand they will have the amount drag I am looking for. If they are too hard to put on then you know you will need to back off on the adjuster. As for the brake adjuster there is a little washer on it before you take it apart pin point were its at because when you start taking the shoes off, parts start droping usally the adjuster will fall apart and the washer will fall off. Just a note I have went with out the washer before but I like to but back on what came off. Yours may not have one, mine did. I use anti sez compound on front and rear brakes
any part metal touches metal. spring hook area brake adjuster, bottom part of spring retainer any moving parts were metal to metal connetions are made. This is just a guide to show what you might need. I loose my brake tools all the time and I used these tools before to do my rear brakes.. Brake tools make it a little easier. But I guess once you pull off your rear drum you will know if you want to do it or not. Just remember the Emergancy brake CANNOT BE SET THIS TIME.:grinyes: . You will have a lot of trouble getting the rear drum off.. hope this helps.. Oh you may want too buy a hardware kit,some do some dont. they are usally cheap. Comes with new springs retainers and other MIS stuff.

While Channel Locks and C-Clamps do work, they create more work because of the double-piston design of the newer Ford brake pistons. I would recommend a rewind tool (Lisle makes a great one). The tool can be used to slowly and simultaneously depress both pistons. Also, did you remove the rotors or just replace the pads? It does make a difference when handling the the calipers.

While Channel Locks and C-Clamps do work, they create more work because of the double-piston design of the newer Ford brake pistons. I would recommend a rewind tool (Lisle makes a great one). The tool can be used to slowly and simultaneously depress both pistons. Also, did you remove the rotors or just replace the pads? It does make a difference when handling the the calipers.
I have a caliper tool as well. most cases on the single piston C clamps work fine. Another trick with a C clamp with multi pistons calipers is a strip of metal or wood thats thin enough but yet strong enough to back in the multi piston set up.

I have a caliper tool as well. most cases on the single piston C clamps work fine. Another trick with a C clamp with multi pistons calipers is a strip of metal or wood thats thin enough but yet strong enough to back in the multi piston set up.
yes what i did was just used the old pad and the C clamp.

and i just did the pads 'fordboss' i didn't take the rotor off because they were in pretty good shape and the old pads still had some meat left on them. so i just assumed my rotor should be alright(no visible deep marks)...hopefully brake cleaner cleaned it good!

On rear drum setups:

After removing the drum, use a digital camera to take several images at all angles before removing anything else. You will find this very helpful when reassembling.

BTW, I just yesterday replaced the front pads and front rotors on my '99 Winnie. Got about 150k - 160k miles out of these last aftermarket rotors. The mileage you get out of rotors varies so much due to different road conditions and driving practices. I do very little driving on unpaved roads, but I do occasionally tow.

On rear drum setups:

After removing the drum, use a digital camera to take several images at all angles before removing anything else. You will find this very helpful when reassembling.

good tip thanks....i am going to go through both the fords manual and haynes.

I have a caliper tool as well. most cases on the single piston C clamps work fine. Another trick with a C clamp with multi pistons calipers is a strip of metal or wood thats thin enough but yet strong enough to back in the multi piston set up.
Yes... the old inner brake pad is just perfect to get this acomplished, just leave it in place as you work the c-clamp or channelock pliers to get the caliper piston(s) resetted. Then remove the old pad and replace it with the new pad. That's the way i did it before I got the caliper tool!