hydraulic control unit

I need help QUICK!!!!! =) We are a single-car family and our 1999 Ford Windstar is in the shop. We took it in because the ABS and Check Engine lights were both on on the dashboard. Several places tried to read the code on the ABS and it wouldn't pull up anything, so they did a more extensive evaluation. They said that it is the hydraulic control unit, and that it needs to be replaced. They said the part from Ford is going to be $700 and the labor will be around $295 or so. My questions are:
a) is it reasonable to get this part from a used part place considering if the part is bad we would have to pay for labor twice?
b) how difficult is it for a mechanically-minded (but hasn't dealt with car repairs hardly at all) guy to install this part? Is it worth the labor fee or is it something easy to do in the driveway?

Please write back as soon as possible!! The auto shop is waiting to know what we want to do. Thank you, thank you so much!!

HI
I would not call this a typical DIY'er type of job. If that unit needs to be replaced, it also needs to be bled properly etc. Have you asked your mechanics about a used/remanufactured unit?

Thank you for your super-quick response! I have asked them about getting a used ABS pump (hydraulic unit), but he said he wouldn't recommend it because if the part winds up being bad, then we have to pay him for labor twice ($300). However, we only bought this van for $4400 so we kind of hate to throw in a quarter of that amount over this one repair. I'm going to go ahead and admit my stupidity by asking this question, but how important is this repair? We've been driving with the ABS light on now for a few months trying to troubleshoot why it was on. Oh, by the way, they just said at the shop that the fuel pump is not communicating with the computer so they said that is the first thing to try ($700 for the part; almost $300 for labor). It won't necessarily be the cause of the ABS light, but it could be. So, this could turn into quite a costly adventure -- getting this one ABS light off. Any thoughts anyone? Are we stupid to try a used part for something like this?

You have nonitergrated system. What type of problem with the ABS system were you having besides the warning light.??/ You should beable to use the brakes until you are ready for the replacement. The only thing is your ABS wont work but your brakes should be fine unless you have leak in hydr unit.

No noticeable problems with the ABS -- that's why we haven't acted on it very quickly. Just every single time that we accelerate the car, upon initially starting it, to about 4 mph (when it does the ABS self-test), the ABS light comes on. On random occasion, the check engine light also would come on.

You have nonitergrated system. What type of problem with the ABS system were you having besides the warning light.??/ You should beable to use the brakes until you are ready for the replacement. The only thing is your ABS wont work but your brakes should be fine unless you have leak in hydr unit.

If they did not get an ABS code. I am a little worried that they might be trying to fix something that does not need to be fix. Thy hydr control mod is about the most exspensive part on the system. U need to have the code and someone like the dealer would be able to tell you or call around to see if anyone can pull ABS codes for ford.

You also may wont to check out a voltage problem first. Such as sensors.I dont know why the CEL would come on. the only 2 the would show would be ABS or brake warning light.

Yeah, we also are concerned that they may be fixing something that might not need to be fixed, but they said that as it is not communicating with the computer, then it DOES need to be fixed. As far as reading the ABS code goes, we tried 2 or 3 mechanic shops that had the computer that can read Ford ABS codes. None of them were able to pull anything up. I think this is the third shop now. So, you think that if we take it to the Ford dealer that they will be able to pull up a code that this mechanic (and 2 others) could not?

If they did not get an ABS code. I am a little worried that they might be trying to fix something that does not need to be fix. Thy hydr control mod is about the most exspensive part on the system. U need to have the code and someone like the dealer would be able to tell you or call around to see if anyone can pull ABS codes for ford

No .you done your shopping.. If they had a scanner that could pull ABS codes from Ford then Im not quite sure whats going on. If you take it to Ford You got to be on your toes 78.00 for code check at least a my local dealer ship here. But if you do go that route make sure you tell them not to fix it.. Just tell you whats wrong.. If your ABS seems to be acting normal other than the light I think there somthing else wrong causing the light. The best way is driving in area thats safe
and test them out. I know on another car the sensor went bad but that wheel only would lock up then ABS light would come on and stay on.
I also think too there is a seperate port for pulling the windstar ABS codes. I have a scanner that pulls ABS codes but its works on OBD port only so it wont work with fords although In my book it said it would..

Personally, I wouldn't replace the hydraulic unit until someone can dump the ABS codes (or use some other verifiable test) and prove that it's actually the hydraulic unit at fault. There are many other things that can cause an ABS light to turn on - and practically all of them cost less than a hydraulic unit. "Shotgun" repair techniques (i.e., replace parts until the problem goes away) isn't terribly effective, unless you're trying to maximize repair shop profit.

Personally, I wouldn't replace the hydraulic unit until someone can dump the ABS codes (or use some other verifiable test) and prove that it's actually the hydraulic unit at fault. There are many other things that can cause an ABS light to turn on - and practically all of them cost less than a hydraulic unit. "Shotgun" repair techniques (i.e., replace parts until the problem goes away) isn't terribly effective, unless you're trying to maximize repair shop profit.
I agree !! I am glad they are nonitergrated systems. Some older GMs Londrover BMW and some current on the BMW have Intergrated systems, pump, hydro unit and a acuumulator, the acumulator takes the place of the vacc
assit brake booster. All that is ,is a small tank that hold reserves for up to 25 brake pedal power assit. If your brake light comes on and your fluid level is fine, after about 25 pedal push you go to rock hard pedal. The problem is you could have one of these problems,a bad,acumulator,hyro unit ,or pump. All can be pricey.Hydro unit alone on an 87 pontiac is 1100.00 bucks that more than the cars worth. I did a brake job on one with a bad pump and no one even the dealer would touch it the lady love the car so much she wanted me to find the problem so 167.00 and a new pump I got lucky..Studied the system a few days before i fixed it. Thats why newer cars most of them now have nonitergrated systems. ABS system does not have to work to keep stopping. I wonder why the its not giving a code for the above tread ??

Okay, here's where we're at now: My husband went to go pick up the van for now so we can use it over the weekend, and possibly shop used ABS pumps. We are, at this time, planning to bring it back to the mechanic on Monday so he can finish the job. We have found a used pump for $150.00 with a 30-day warranty (in-store credit only). The gamble is if we replace the pump, but the used pump is bad, then we have to pay labor twice at somewhere just under $300.00. A side note: we have a large family and this is our only vehicle and we have short road trips planned these next two upcoming weekends so we want to make sure we're not going to have problems on the road. We have been posting on this site now (and following the wonderful advice) in regard to the ABS light being on for several months and have tried to troubleshoot everything possible in regard to the smaller things that could be setting off the ABS (and now the check engine light). Nothing has turned it off for good. The mechanic said that the ABS pump is just simply not communicating with the computer -- what does this mean as far as whether or not this needs to be replaced? It seems by the sounds of things that that is one of the first things that would have to be fixed in order to pull the codes -- unfortunately, it's quite costly to do so. Phil, I understand your logic here. It makes a lot of sense. However, we have tried literally everything under the sun listed on this website via our other posts in an attempt to get it to shut the light off. In light of this, is it possible that maybe we're down to the hydraulic unit as a last-ditch (yet expensive) effort? How else could we get the ABS code? What other verifiable test is there out there to troubleshoot if it's the hydraulic unit or not? Is there anything that could make this van unsafe to drive on these two road trips (max of four hours one way) coming up while we figure this thing out? Thanks for all the replies!! Ya'll are geniuses!

Okay, this is interesting. My husband just got in with the van. One of the mechanics there had been working on getting a code out of the ABS. He put in all the correct info., but still no code. Then, after messing with it off and on all day, he decided to put in all the correct info into the computer except change the year of the van to a 97 (ours is a 98), and interesting enough, it pulled the code for the hydraulic unit. So, would all of you agree that it makes sense now to just pop this used ABS pump in the van on Monday based on the 97 reading? That's what they're pushing us to do at the shop.

Okay, this is interesting. My husband just got in with the van. One of the mechanics there had been working on getting a code out of the ABS. He put in all the correct info., but still no code. Then, after messing with it off and on all day, he decided to put in all the correct info into the computer except change the year of the van to a 97 (ours is a 98), and interesting enough, it pulled the code for the hydraulic unit. So, would all of you agree that it makes sense now to just pop this used ABS pump in the van on Monday based on the 97 reading? That's what they're pushing us to do at the shop.
That may have been the issue all along. 98 van 97 info on cpu. early prodution before upgrade.. If its now by code pointing at the hydro that good. As far a saftey on long trips. You should be fine just remember ABS is a saftey feature and you have drover cars with out it. So if you slam on the brakes it may or may not "lock up" skid. If you been driving all along you should be fine.
I like the checking and looking for info you ended up saving money