2000 Windstar Brake Rotors

I am in the process of replacing the pads, cutting the rotors, and cleaning the abs sensors on my 2000 Ford Windstar. I have removed the front caliper and mounting bracket. What else holds the rotor on? Do I have to remove the 1 1/8 nut on the spindle or is my rotor just stuck on? Thanks in advance.

There are three star bolts on the front.
This will allow the rotor to come off.
DO NOT TOUCH THE 1 1/8 BOLT. It is to remove the wheel
bearing/hub assembly.

Thanks. I thought it seemed a bit odd to have to take off the spindle nut. This should make things a bit easier...

Warning: It's likely one of the three TORX bolts will break while removing them (happened to me; had to drill the broken one out, but not a tough job).

Note that the three TORX bolts are really just there to simplify OEM assembly; they aren't required (the wheel lugs actually hold the rotor in place).

I just recently replaced the original rotors on my 2000. I t turned out to be quite a job. I removed the torx bolts fairly easily, but the rotors did not want to give in. I ended up supporting the bottom of one rotor and hitting it with a small sledge and LOTS of penetrating oil. It finally gave up. The other side was not so easy. I tried banging it making sure to be careful not to damage the bearing. It didn't budge. I tried to pull it off with a wheel puller--it wouldn't budge. I tried heat and it wouldn't budge. After great frustration--I pulled out the cutting wheel and surgically removed it and even then it was very stubborn. After I completed the removal, someone mentioned that a shot of the air chisel at the hub might do the trick. What happens is that after time, the rotor begins to meld to the wheel hub and that's where I had trouble-- the hub and the rotor had morphed into one. I hope you don't have this trouble, but yes those torx bits are the only thing that are supposed to hold the rotor on. And by the way, those torx bolts were only used upon assembly and are not used on the replacement rotors. I hope this helps and good luck.

The torx bolts came out easy and the job is complete. I will be driving it this week to make sure the brakes "seat" and keep an open ear and nose for any problems. I also did the tsb for the isolator bolts, cleaned the abs sensors and changed the plugs for good measure. Hopefully, that is all the maintenance I will have to perform until next spring (besides oil changes). Thanks again, Robin.

To avoid the kind of problems pitteach had:

If you live in an area that gets lots of snow/ice in the winter - and uses lots of salt - you might consider putting a *light* coat of anti-seize compound on the hub, before mounting the rotor. This can help prevent these kind of rotor-fused-to-the-hub situations. Don't over-use the anti-seize; excess can be slung up onto the rotor and contaminate the pad.

I did just that when I replaced the rotors and I also put a light coat of anti-sieze on the face of the drum. I seem to have a slight problem getting the rear wheel off sometimes.

There were no torq screws on my 2001 LX, but it's possible the brakes were done before I bought it 3yrs ago with 34K on it. The OEM rotors came off very hard earlier this year. Took LOTS of beating until I learned a trick from a commercial mechanic family member. Hit the hub of the rotor with an air hammer/chisel. You can get one from harbor freight tools or the likes for $10. A quick burst around the hub between the studs and the rotor will fall right off. Definately never-seize the hub before you reinstall new rotors. I wouldnt ever bother turning rotors anymore. It's not worth the time/effort/money.

Joel