How difficult is to replace ECM?
sebaz
09-12-2006, 06:56 PM
I took my 94 Buick LeSabre to a mechanic after it cut off on me about 25 times in 6 miles. This happens only in the morning after a coldish night (55 or so), because after 3 PM or so the car runs fine. Also, starting it is very difficult in the morning, but in the afternoon it's not so hard. So these guys are telling me that they would need to replace the alternator (which was replaced about one year ago) because it's only producing 12 volts when it's supposed to do 14, and the Electronic Control Module, and they wanted to charge me close to a thousand bucks for that. So I said no thanks and brought it back. My questions are:
1) Does it plausible to you that the problem could be in those two components, when it's clearly temperature related? The colder it is the more difficult to get it started, and the more it will cut off when running.
2) I know replacing the alternator is easy, but what about the ECM? I read about it in the Chilton manual, and information on it is not very detailed. Also, these guys told me they need to replace the EPROM, which needs to be reprogrammed, something I also read in the Chilton manual, but it gets more complicated, because it says there that depending on the car there may be an EEPROM, a KS, or a MEM-CAL. How do I know which one mine has? If I manage to replace the ECM plus the EPROM or whatever it is, do I need to still take it to a dealership so they reprogram the EPROM, or is it not necessary for this model.
I would like to give this car one more chance before taking it to the junk yard, because as it is, I don't have a thousand bucks to fix it, and at this point I spent about $1500 in repairs, plus $3000 for the car itself, which needless to say was the worst deal of my life. So I would really appreciatte any help on this.
Sebastian
1) Does it plausible to you that the problem could be in those two components, when it's clearly temperature related? The colder it is the more difficult to get it started, and the more it will cut off when running.
2) I know replacing the alternator is easy, but what about the ECM? I read about it in the Chilton manual, and information on it is not very detailed. Also, these guys told me they need to replace the EPROM, which needs to be reprogrammed, something I also read in the Chilton manual, but it gets more complicated, because it says there that depending on the car there may be an EEPROM, a KS, or a MEM-CAL. How do I know which one mine has? If I manage to replace the ECM plus the EPROM or whatever it is, do I need to still take it to a dealership so they reprogram the EPROM, or is it not necessary for this model.
I would like to give this car one more chance before taking it to the junk yard, because as it is, I don't have a thousand bucks to fix it, and at this point I spent about $1500 in repairs, plus $3000 for the car itself, which needless to say was the worst deal of my life. So I would really appreciatte any help on this.
Sebastian
spinne1
09-12-2006, 09:14 PM
If by ECM you mean the car's computer, it is a pretty easy fix. You first get one from a boneyard (or buy one from a parts store), then remove the black plastic shield below the dash (7mm socket works great, or a torx screwdriver (don't remember the size). Now, look under the dash by the passenger's feet and look for the silver box with the three main wiring harnesses connected to it. It is held it place by a small metal bracket with a single 10mm nut. Remove the nut and the bracket and you can wiggle the computer out. To remove the wiring harnesses, squeeze the plastic on the sides of the harnesses to release the locking mechanisms and pull away from the computer. After the computer is out, use your same torx screwdriver to remove the cover plate on your computer, under which the chip resides that you need to replace with the chip in your car's computer (I think the 94 still uses the replaceable chips rather than requiring a reprogram). Then put the cover back on, stick the computer back where you got it, reconnect the wiring harnesses, and reattach the bracket with the 10mm nut. Then test the car before putting the black shield back on in case you find it doesn't work right or needs further diagnosis.
It's about a 1/2 - 1 hour job.
It's about a 1/2 - 1 hour job.
Andrewhuffman
09-12-2006, 09:38 PM
it took me 10 minuts to swich mine.... on a 95 lesabre.
sebaz
09-12-2006, 10:26 PM
Are you sure it's in that location? Because according to the Chilton manual it should be there, but when I open the hood I see a thing on the right side close to the brake master cylinder which looks like the computer, and actually the Chilton manual says that is the position for cars starting 1996. I know mine is a 94, but also a 94 is supposed to have an OBD I connector and this one has an OBD II. But I'll check the location tomorrow, because I really never looked under the dashboard. It might be that what I think is the computer is something else.
If by ECM you mean the car's computer, it is a pretty easy fix. You first get one from a boneyard (or buy one from a parts store), then remove the black plastic shield below the dash (7mm socket works great, or a torx screwdriver (don't remember the size). Now, look under the dash by the passenger's feet and look for the silver box with the three main wiring harnesses connected to it. It is held it place by a small metal bracket with a single 10mm nut. Remove the nut and the bracket and you can wiggle the computer out. To remove the wiring harnesses, squeeze the plastic on the sides of the harnesses to release the locking mechanisms and pull away from the computer. After the computer is out, use your same torx screwdriver to remove the cover plate on your computer, under which the chip resides that you need to replace with the chip in your car's computer (I think the 94 still uses the replaceable chips rather than requiring a reprogram). Then put the cover back on, stick the computer back where you got it, reconnect the wiring harnesses, and reattach the bracket with the 10mm nut. Then test the car before putting the black shield back on in case you find it doesn't work right or needs further diagnosis.
It's about a 1/2 - 1 hour job.
If by ECM you mean the car's computer, it is a pretty easy fix. You first get one from a boneyard (or buy one from a parts store), then remove the black plastic shield below the dash (7mm socket works great, or a torx screwdriver (don't remember the size). Now, look under the dash by the passenger's feet and look for the silver box with the three main wiring harnesses connected to it. It is held it place by a small metal bracket with a single 10mm nut. Remove the nut and the bracket and you can wiggle the computer out. To remove the wiring harnesses, squeeze the plastic on the sides of the harnesses to release the locking mechanisms and pull away from the computer. After the computer is out, use your same torx screwdriver to remove the cover plate on your computer, under which the chip resides that you need to replace with the chip in your car's computer (I think the 94 still uses the replaceable chips rather than requiring a reprogram). Then put the cover back on, stick the computer back where you got it, reconnect the wiring harnesses, and reattach the bracket with the 10mm nut. Then test the car before putting the black shield back on in case you find it doesn't work right or needs further diagnosis.
It's about a 1/2 - 1 hour job.
spinne1
09-13-2006, 12:11 AM
Are you sure it's in that location? Because according to the Chilton manual it should be there, but when I open the hood I see a thing on the right side close to the brake master cylinder which looks like the computer, and actually the Chilton manual says that is the position for cars starting 1996. I know mine is a 94, but also a 94 is supposed to have an OBD I connector and this one has an OBD II. But I'll check the location tomorrow, because I really never looked under the dashboard. It might be that what I think is the computer is something else.
Maybe you have some Franken-car prototype that slipped out of the GM labs. I don't think 94s have the computer under the hood. Take a photo and post it if you can of the thing under the hood. I'm curious.
Maybe you have some Franken-car prototype that slipped out of the GM labs. I don't think 94s have the computer under the hood. Take a photo and post it if you can of the thing under the hood. I'm curious.
Bassasasin
09-13-2006, 09:52 AM
WAIT WAIT>... get that alternator fixed first... the PCM may not be bad at all..
BASS...
BASS...
Andrewhuffman
09-13-2006, 10:15 AM
the computer under the hood next to the master cilider attached to the inside of the front left finder wall is the ABS computer.
Bassasasin
09-13-2006, 01:45 PM
The PCM is behind the glove compartment.
You have to remove the kick panel passenger side to see it. It is tucked kindof high in there.
Good luck.
You have to remove the kick panel passenger side to see it. It is tucked kindof high in there.
Good luck.
Bassasasin
09-13-2006, 01:48 PM
Alternators are running (I paid) about 70 bucks at a parts store. PCMs are about 100 rebuilt...
So figure you may best find another Mechanic.
Good LUCK.
So figure you may best find another Mechanic.
Good LUCK.
Andrewhuffman
09-13-2006, 03:06 PM
i paid 10$ for a working ECM form the junk yard. i got lucky and it had the same part nnumber. if its the same one your lookin for, i can mail it to you for 20$ via paypal, money order or Personal Check. what number is on your ECM
sebaz
09-13-2006, 06:16 PM
the computer under the hood next to the master cilider attached to the inside of the front left finder wall is the ABS computer.
Ohhh. Excelllent. So my car isn't a weird GM prototype after all. That's good news. I'll check into it as soon as I can. Thanks for the info.
Ohhh. Excelllent. So my car isn't a weird GM prototype after all. That's good news. I'll check into it as soon as I can. Thanks for the info.
sebaz
09-13-2006, 06:20 PM
WAIT WAIT>... get that alternator fixed first... the PCM may not be bad at all..
BASS...
Yea. I'll do that, however, this problem started around October of last year, when the alternator was only about 3 months old. Also, I read in the Chilton manual that if the computer is bad then the car defaults to some set of basic values that are far from optimal, and it affects performance a lot. So that might be true since this car used to give me about 370 miles per tank and now it only gives about 260, a huge drop. Could it be that because the computer is bad the car is running on open loop all the time and that's the reason the gas mileage is so poor?
Sebastian
BASS...
Yea. I'll do that, however, this problem started around October of last year, when the alternator was only about 3 months old. Also, I read in the Chilton manual that if the computer is bad then the car defaults to some set of basic values that are far from optimal, and it affects performance a lot. So that might be true since this car used to give me about 370 miles per tank and now it only gives about 260, a huge drop. Could it be that because the computer is bad the car is running on open loop all the time and that's the reason the gas mileage is so poor?
Sebastian
MT-2500
09-13-2006, 06:31 PM
Yea. I'll do that, however, this problem started around October of last year, when the alternator was only about 3 months old. Also, I read in the Chilton manual that if the computer is bad then the car defaults to some set of basic values that are far from optimal, and it affects performance a lot. So that might be true since this car used to give me about 370 miles per tank and now it only gives about 260, a huge drop. Could it be that because the computer is bad the car is running on open loop all the time and that's the reason the gas mileage is so poor?
Sebastian
Have you check for codes?
You need to pitch that chilton in the trash can and get you some real info.
Like a factory service manual or .
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
MT
Sebastian
Have you check for codes?
You need to pitch that chilton in the trash can and get you some real info.
Like a factory service manual or .
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
MT
sebaz
09-13-2006, 06:42 PM
Have you check for codes?
You need to pitch that chilton in the trash can and get you some real info.
Like a factory service manual or .
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
MT
I checked for codes but it doesn't give any, which is probably a sign that the computer is broken.
A factory service manual I think it's very expensive, as for that website, I'll check it out. Thanks.
You need to pitch that chilton in the trash can and get you some real info.
Like a factory service manual or .
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
MT
I checked for codes but it doesn't give any, which is probably a sign that the computer is broken.
A factory service manual I think it's very expensive, as for that website, I'll check it out. Thanks.
sebaz
09-13-2006, 06:54 PM
it took me 10 minuts to swich mine.... on a 95 lesabre.
Which kind of chip does yours have? Mem-cal, PROM or KS? I'm asking because I'm searching the Ac Delco catalog online, and I type in mem-cal and nothing comes up. Then I type KS and nothing comes up. Finally I type Prom and two results come up, 16202842 and 216-115, both with the description "EPROM, PCM". Since I had already specified which vehicle I have, then I guess mine has an EPROM. So that leads me to a few other questions:
1) Do all of these EPROMs need to be reprogrammed, or some do and some don't?
2) If it's a chip with values (as ROM, Read Only Memory indicates) then why does it need to be reprogrammed at all? I mean can't I just swap it from the old computer to the new one and that's it?
3) If I don't have a choice but to have it reprogrammed, can I just take the chip to a Buick dealership and pay them just for that, or do I have to have them do the whole computer and EPROM replacement and reprogramming there?
Thanks
Which kind of chip does yours have? Mem-cal, PROM or KS? I'm asking because I'm searching the Ac Delco catalog online, and I type in mem-cal and nothing comes up. Then I type KS and nothing comes up. Finally I type Prom and two results come up, 16202842 and 216-115, both with the description "EPROM, PCM". Since I had already specified which vehicle I have, then I guess mine has an EPROM. So that leads me to a few other questions:
1) Do all of these EPROMs need to be reprogrammed, or some do and some don't?
2) If it's a chip with values (as ROM, Read Only Memory indicates) then why does it need to be reprogrammed at all? I mean can't I just swap it from the old computer to the new one and that's it?
3) If I don't have a choice but to have it reprogrammed, can I just take the chip to a Buick dealership and pay them just for that, or do I have to have them do the whole computer and EPROM replacement and reprogramming there?
Thanks
Andrewhuffman
09-14-2006, 10:45 AM
Which kind of chip does yours have? Mem-cal, PROM or KS? I'm asking because I'm searching the Ac Delco catalog online, and I type in mem-cal and nothing comes up. Then I type KS and nothing comes up. Finally I type Prom and two results come up, 16202842 and 216-115, both with the description "EPROM, PCM". Since I had already specified which vehicle I have, then I guess mine has an EPROM. So that leads me to a few other questions:
1) Do all of these EPROMs need to be reprogrammed, or some do and some don't?
2) If it's a chip with values (as ROM, Read Only Memory indicates) then why does it need to be reprogrammed at all? I mean can't I just swap it from the old computer to the new one and that's it?
3) If I don't have a choice but to have it reprogrammed, can I just take the chip to a Buick dealership and pay them just for that, or do I have to have them do the whole computer and EPROM replacement and reprogramming there?
Thanks
I just know it is a EPROM, it dones not need to be reprogramed. simply unplug you old one, and put into your new one(new ECM does not come with EPROM). two screws open up the ECM and you will see a blue EPROM. rectangle in shape, the size of a D battery. just pull it out and perss the clips ont the sides.
FRom the ECMs i have gathered ( i have 3) 2 of them work and one does not. the one is believed to be the wrong number because it was unlabeled. but my current testion shows no difference in all three in the EPROMs in the same ECM despite the numbers on the EMPROM sticker. remember this is all in my 95 custom, not sure there is a difference.
1) Do all of these EPROMs need to be reprogrammed, or some do and some don't?
2) If it's a chip with values (as ROM, Read Only Memory indicates) then why does it need to be reprogrammed at all? I mean can't I just swap it from the old computer to the new one and that's it?
3) If I don't have a choice but to have it reprogrammed, can I just take the chip to a Buick dealership and pay them just for that, or do I have to have them do the whole computer and EPROM replacement and reprogramming there?
Thanks
I just know it is a EPROM, it dones not need to be reprogramed. simply unplug you old one, and put into your new one(new ECM does not come with EPROM). two screws open up the ECM and you will see a blue EPROM. rectangle in shape, the size of a D battery. just pull it out and perss the clips ont the sides.
FRom the ECMs i have gathered ( i have 3) 2 of them work and one does not. the one is believed to be the wrong number because it was unlabeled. but my current testion shows no difference in all three in the EPROMs in the same ECM despite the numbers on the EMPROM sticker. remember this is all in my 95 custom, not sure there is a difference.
sebaz
09-15-2006, 08:08 PM
Ok, so I replaced the alternator today with a Palladium that's supposed to 100% new. The AC Delco reman was $170 at Walker Auto Stores and this Palladium was $130 and coins at Advance Auto Parts. I know Buicks work better with AC Delco parts, but the alternator my mechanic put in it last year was AC Delco and it failed in a year, so I said screw it and bought the Palladium. It's supposed to have a lifetime warranty for as long as I own the car.
The new alternator works fine, I didn't test the voltage yet (I really need to buy a voltage tester) but the volts light is gone from the dashboard, so I guess it's working. But as I couldn't be any other way with this cursed car, one thing is fixed and another breaks. I went out onto a highway and when I pushed the cruise button at like 50 mph, the car started doing this weird thing where it will accelerate for a second and then deccelerate for another second, over and over. I flipped the switch on and off and then pressed the button again with same result. This only happens with the cruise on, if instead I just keep my foot on the pedal it works fine. What could be the cause of this new problem? Could the old alternator have shorted out something in the cruise control that caused this? Or could it be the ECM? I will try to replace it this weekend, if hopefully mine is like Andrew said in his last post, just a simple swap of the EPROM and not a reprogramming.
Thanks
The new alternator works fine, I didn't test the voltage yet (I really need to buy a voltage tester) but the volts light is gone from the dashboard, so I guess it's working. But as I couldn't be any other way with this cursed car, one thing is fixed and another breaks. I went out onto a highway and when I pushed the cruise button at like 50 mph, the car started doing this weird thing where it will accelerate for a second and then deccelerate for another second, over and over. I flipped the switch on and off and then pressed the button again with same result. This only happens with the cruise on, if instead I just keep my foot on the pedal it works fine. What could be the cause of this new problem? Could the old alternator have shorted out something in the cruise control that caused this? Or could it be the ECM? I will try to replace it this weekend, if hopefully mine is like Andrew said in his last post, just a simple swap of the EPROM and not a reprogramming.
Thanks
spinne1
09-16-2006, 03:16 AM
I didn't test the voltage yet (I really need to buy a voltage tester)
They are as cheap as $10. Get one if you plan to do any diagnostics at all.
I went out onto a highway and when I pushed the cruise button at like 50 mph, the car started doing this weird thing where it will accelerate for a second and then deccelerate for another second, over and over. I flipped the switch on and off and then pressed the button again with same result. This only happens with the cruise on, if instead I just keep my foot on the pedal it works fine. What could be the cause of this new problem? Could the old alternator have shorted out something in the cruise control that caused this? Or could it be the ECM?
The alternator could not have anything to do with this. Did the cruise work properly recently? Was the battery unhooked when the alternator was installed? Check all your vacuum hoses for proper routing and good condition and that they are all hooked up properly. It is possible that your vehicle speed sensor is bad, or that your cruise control servo is bad, or that you have bad wiring, a bad ground, etc. If it were me I would inspect the servo and vehicle speed sensor, and if obviously bad then replace with junkyard parts if I had a place that is cheap (we have pullapart.com around here).
The servo is the thing on the transmission that has a cable connector going to the same place that the throttle cable connects to. The vehicle speed sensor is the small sensor at the very end of the transmission on the passenger side of the car at the top of the transmission.
They are as cheap as $10. Get one if you plan to do any diagnostics at all.
I went out onto a highway and when I pushed the cruise button at like 50 mph, the car started doing this weird thing where it will accelerate for a second and then deccelerate for another second, over and over. I flipped the switch on and off and then pressed the button again with same result. This only happens with the cruise on, if instead I just keep my foot on the pedal it works fine. What could be the cause of this new problem? Could the old alternator have shorted out something in the cruise control that caused this? Or could it be the ECM?
The alternator could not have anything to do with this. Did the cruise work properly recently? Was the battery unhooked when the alternator was installed? Check all your vacuum hoses for proper routing and good condition and that they are all hooked up properly. It is possible that your vehicle speed sensor is bad, or that your cruise control servo is bad, or that you have bad wiring, a bad ground, etc. If it were me I would inspect the servo and vehicle speed sensor, and if obviously bad then replace with junkyard parts if I had a place that is cheap (we have pullapart.com around here).
The servo is the thing on the transmission that has a cable connector going to the same place that the throttle cable connects to. The vehicle speed sensor is the small sensor at the very end of the transmission on the passenger side of the car at the top of the transmission.
sebaz
09-16-2006, 08:18 AM
The alternator could not have anything to do with this. Did the cruise work properly recently?
Yes.
Was the battery unhooked when the alternator was installed?
Yes.
After I posted this last message I went out for a drive and I drove on the same avenue/highway as before and it still exhibited that problem (at like 50 mph. However, then I got onto a high speed highway where I could go 70 mph, so while travelling at that speed I pressed the button again and this time it worked and didn't do the weird thing anymore. So I figured that obviously the problem was at lower speeds. But when I got off the highway I got onto a road with a 45 mph speed limit, and I tried engaging the cruise again, and this time it worked. So I don't know what the deal is. Maybe the car is haunted.
Yes.
Was the battery unhooked when the alternator was installed?
Yes.
After I posted this last message I went out for a drive and I drove on the same avenue/highway as before and it still exhibited that problem (at like 50 mph. However, then I got onto a high speed highway where I could go 70 mph, so while travelling at that speed I pressed the button again and this time it worked and didn't do the weird thing anymore. So I figured that obviously the problem was at lower speeds. But when I got off the highway I got onto a road with a 45 mph speed limit, and I tried engaging the cruise again, and this time it worked. So I don't know what the deal is. Maybe the car is haunted.
Bassasasin
09-16-2006, 05:28 PM
My PCM messed my cruise control. Only temp engaged 3 seconds or so. Sometimes longer.
May be a vaccuum leak somewhere. It has a brake Cruise contol release valve on the brake pedal that may be leaking..
Your symptom of bad gas mileage may be the O2 sensor.. Disconnect it and see if it improves or changes. O2 wont throw a code if its sending bad data.
Good luck.
May be a vaccuum leak somewhere. It has a brake Cruise contol release valve on the brake pedal that may be leaking..
Your symptom of bad gas mileage may be the O2 sensor.. Disconnect it and see if it improves or changes. O2 wont throw a code if its sending bad data.
Good luck.
HotZ28
09-16-2006, 08:46 PM
Have you ever thought about a mechanical/electrical exorcist? :confused:
Did you buy this car from a family member of a deceased person? :confused:
It is with a doubt, haunted! Gremlins are more predictable and usually nest in the same areas. Demons, on the other hand, seem to move around and make their presence less obvious! I would suggest taking the car to church on Sunday and request a big bottle of “Holy Water” to sprinkle on the whole car! In fact, if you can find a car wash that specializes in the use of “Holy Water”, just do a drive through!:grinyes::cwm27:
Did you buy this car from a family member of a deceased person? :confused:
It is with a doubt, haunted! Gremlins are more predictable and usually nest in the same areas. Demons, on the other hand, seem to move around and make their presence less obvious! I would suggest taking the car to church on Sunday and request a big bottle of “Holy Water” to sprinkle on the whole car! In fact, if you can find a car wash that specializes in the use of “Holy Water”, just do a drive through!:grinyes::cwm27:
imidazol97
09-16-2006, 08:51 PM
The AC Delco reman was $170 at Walker Auto Stores and this Palladium was $130 and coins at Advance Auto Parts. I know Buicks work better with AC Delco parts, but the alternator my mechanic put in it last year was AC Delco and it failed in a year, so I said screw it and bought the Palladium. It's supposed to have a lifetime warranty for as long as I own the car.
Thanks
The Advance Auto has AC REmanufactured alternators. Those are supposed to be the best replacement... Was yours actually a remanufactured by AC Delco? or rebuilt by a local/regional rebuilder?
I put a reman ACDelco on a 93 LeSabre at 70K when original failed; at 155K miles it was going fine and quiet...
Thanks
The Advance Auto has AC REmanufactured alternators. Those are supposed to be the best replacement... Was yours actually a remanufactured by AC Delco? or rebuilt by a local/regional rebuilder?
I put a reman ACDelco on a 93 LeSabre at 70K when original failed; at 155K miles it was going fine and quiet...
sebaz
09-16-2006, 09:24 PM
Have you ever thought about a mechanical/electrical exorcist? :confused:
Did you buy this car from a family member of a deceased person? :confused:
It is with a doubt, haunted! Gremlins are more predictable and usually nest in the same areas. Demons, on the other hand, seem to move around and make their presence less obvious! I would suggest taking the car to church on Sunday and request a big bottle of “Holy Water” to sprinkle on the whole car! In fact, if you can find a car wash that specializes in the use of “Holy Water”, just do a drive through!:grinyes::cwm27:
Well, I saw a mechanical/electrical exorcist listed in the yellow pages. I might give him a call!
To answer your second question, I found the car abandoned at an indian cemetery with a sign on the window with this written in blood: "Warning! Car is haunted!". Maybe I should've followed the warning. Damn!
Did you buy this car from a family member of a deceased person? :confused:
It is with a doubt, haunted! Gremlins are more predictable and usually nest in the same areas. Demons, on the other hand, seem to move around and make their presence less obvious! I would suggest taking the car to church on Sunday and request a big bottle of “Holy Water” to sprinkle on the whole car! In fact, if you can find a car wash that specializes in the use of “Holy Water”, just do a drive through!:grinyes::cwm27:
Well, I saw a mechanical/electrical exorcist listed in the yellow pages. I might give him a call!
To answer your second question, I found the car abandoned at an indian cemetery with a sign on the window with this written in blood: "Warning! Car is haunted!". Maybe I should've followed the warning. Damn!
sebaz
09-16-2006, 09:27 PM
Your symptom of bad gas mileage may be the O2 sensor.. Disconnect it and see if it improves or changes. O2 wont throw a code if its sending bad data.
Actually I had read before that the O2 sensor when not working right could be tthe cause of bad mileage, so I had replaced that a few months ago with a brand new AC Delco, but mileage kept being terrible, about 15 mpg. But thanks for the advice anyway.
Actually I had read before that the O2 sensor when not working right could be tthe cause of bad mileage, so I had replaced that a few months ago with a brand new AC Delco, but mileage kept being terrible, about 15 mpg. But thanks for the advice anyway.
sebaz
09-16-2006, 09:31 PM
The Advance Auto has AC REmanufactured alternators. Those are supposed to be the best replacement... Was yours actually a remanufactured by AC Delco? or rebuilt by a local/regional rebuilder?
I put a reman ACDelco on a 93 LeSabre at 70K when original failed; at 155K miles it was going fine and quiet...
Well, Advance Auto has that reman Delco online, but the two stores in my area didn't have it in stock, in fact they told me they couldn't even get it with special order. But I don't care really, because the one that my mechanic put a little over a year ago was an AC Delco and it failed, and it only had one year warranty. This Palladium not only is 100% made from new parts (as far as they say, I can't know for sure that it's true), but also it's under warranty for as long as I own the car, so I think it was a better choice. It pisses me off having paid for an alternator a year ago and now having to buy another one because the first one was out of warranty. At least with this one I won't have that problem.
I put a reman ACDelco on a 93 LeSabre at 70K when original failed; at 155K miles it was going fine and quiet...
Well, Advance Auto has that reman Delco online, but the two stores in my area didn't have it in stock, in fact they told me they couldn't even get it with special order. But I don't care really, because the one that my mechanic put a little over a year ago was an AC Delco and it failed, and it only had one year warranty. This Palladium not only is 100% made from new parts (as far as they say, I can't know for sure that it's true), but also it's under warranty for as long as I own the car, so I think it was a better choice. It pisses me off having paid for an alternator a year ago and now having to buy another one because the first one was out of warranty. At least with this one I won't have that problem.
jerryls
10-08-2006, 10:35 AM
How did you check for codes? The 94 does not output any blinking lights. Also, a scanner made for 96 and up cars will not work. I'd double check that the computer is bad before replacing it.
MT-2500
10-08-2006, 11:32 AM
How did you check for codes? The 94 does not output any blinking lights. Also, a scanner made for 96 and up cars will not work. I'd double check that the computer is bad before replacing it.
It is better to start a new post for a different problem.
If you do not have a A and B on your diagnostic connector like.
Some 94 and 95 GM you need a special scanner to get codes or read PCM
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
MT
It is better to start a new post for a different problem.
If you do not have a A and B on your diagnostic connector like.
Some 94 and 95 GM you need a special scanner to get codes or read PCM
http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
MT
BNaylor
10-08-2006, 12:00 PM
It is better to start a new post for a different problem.MT
I agree. His post (jayhill) has been removed and a new thread started for him. See link below.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=629335
I agree. His post (jayhill) has been removed and a new thread started for him. See link below.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=629335
Bassasasin
10-08-2006, 04:22 PM
Sebastian.. I think your way off.. the car is worth working on it.. the symptom however may be just a simple sensor...
Shops will run you around...
These cars are appearing in junk yards with very little wrong with them. just a sensor,
hang in here and we will help you fix it. Cheap..
Bass
Shops will run you around...
These cars are appearing in junk yards with very little wrong with them. just a sensor,
hang in here and we will help you fix it. Cheap..
Bass
rhandwor
10-17-2006, 08:16 PM
Low voltage will cause a problem with the ECM I would take it to a good rebuild shop and have it checked. If it needs repaired get it fixed then check how the car runs. Especially if the battery is low the voltage will drop and the engine will not run properly. Make sure you are charging around 14.2 to 14.4 in the morning.
Bassasasin
10-18-2006, 11:51 AM
SURGING?
I think your discribing surging... Surging is either a fuel or timing problem.
Unless its your air conditioner kicking in or the TPS is worn.
Often surging is from a loose camchain or bad component there effecting valve timing and fuel injector timing.
Another possibility is fuel which would be poor acceleration noted when trying to pass while at speed.
ON THE PCM TOPIC.(whatever it seems to be)
Im betting its not the PCM at all. And Im wondering why you dont just move the PROM... from the old PCM.. They learn the best settings for start and run for your specific car so a new programmed one will reprogram itself again, and you can clear those settings with a battery disconnect and it relearns them in a couple days of driving and starts.
Temperature related problems forums noted
Some posts have noted a fix in temperature related running as either a fuel pump. or a CRAnkshaft, Camshaft sensor.
I believe the fuel pump does not throw a code which makes it first suspect, else sometimes a CRAnkshaft, Camshaft sensor will not throw a code unless the problem remains for a determined period of time.
I think your discribing surging... Surging is either a fuel or timing problem.
Unless its your air conditioner kicking in or the TPS is worn.
Often surging is from a loose camchain or bad component there effecting valve timing and fuel injector timing.
Another possibility is fuel which would be poor acceleration noted when trying to pass while at speed.
ON THE PCM TOPIC.(whatever it seems to be)
Im betting its not the PCM at all. And Im wondering why you dont just move the PROM... from the old PCM.. They learn the best settings for start and run for your specific car so a new programmed one will reprogram itself again, and you can clear those settings with a battery disconnect and it relearns them in a couple days of driving and starts.
Temperature related problems forums noted
Some posts have noted a fix in temperature related running as either a fuel pump. or a CRAnkshaft, Camshaft sensor.
I believe the fuel pump does not throw a code which makes it first suspect, else sometimes a CRAnkshaft, Camshaft sensor will not throw a code unless the problem remains for a determined period of time.
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