02 wheel hub replacement?

Anyone have experience with this procedure. I know I'll need a 36mm deep well socket but wondering if I will need a puller to get it off...Any other hints that might help...sure is dissappointing this has gone at 64K...it's non ABS by the way.

Yes...you will need a puller. You can pick one up at AutoZone for $29.99

I havent done it yet, but I was present when someone else had to do one and I paid a little attention.

you'll have to take off the calipers and brackets, 3 bolts hold the hub to the kncukle, on the back. And then you'll have to use a puller to get it off.

Hmmm, Puller and socket. might be able to rent I'll have to check on that tomorrow. no one local has the part so have to order if I am going to do this. got the best price from NAPA 166 includes tax. My dealer quoted 240+tax for the part and labor...I dunno might be a toss up at this point.

You do not need a puller to get the wheel bearing off.I use an air hammer with a chisel bit to get them off,Not on the spindle and put the bit part near the bolt holes on wheel bearing.It comes off easy with an air hammer.

Now there is only one problem with that, I don't have an air compressor. But it is a good suggestion just the same. Wouldn't happen to know why the axle nut is to be replaced with a new one, per instructions in Motor Manual 2002-2006 edition..?

Actually, that's not a good suggestion, could have adverse affects and end up damaging smoething.

the proper way to to have a puller and take it off, you can rent one from autozone for free, just leave a deposit and rent one, then when you return it, you get your whole deposit back.

Per GM, many repairs state to replace bolts with new ones, some are torque to yeild bolts, which CANNOT be reused, but most of the time it's justbecause new bolts come with loctie already applied to them. In this case you can just re-apply loctie and resuse the old bolt.

I'mnot sure why they state to get a new azle nut, but most (if not all) people, don't, and they jsut reuse the old one witout any problems.

I use the air hammer with no damage at all.I have removed the wheel bearing without a puller and the air hammer does a better job,it is faster,Just go back and forth ON the wheel bearing since it is junk anyway.Go to someone that has an air compressor.

AOK on the nut replacement, you are probably correct on the loctite I use the red on most apps.Closest Autozone 30 miles out, I'll check with local rental on monday. I have to wait till first of month anyway.

Next, go to someone with an air compressor...OK I am thinking but can't figure how that would work plus I don't know anybody that has one but I do have the air tools. Got them when I was still working but never got the compressor, had a heart attack instead.

I see nobody suggested the most important special tools. A torque wrench. The hub bearing will need to be torqued in a range of 151 - 180 ft-lbs depending on what the hub manufacturer specifies. GM hubs are around 151 ft-lbs. Do not use air impact tools to tighten the axle nut. Plus it is recommended to use a new axle nut but not mandatory.

The GM hubs comes with the three hub bolts and nuts. These should be properly torqed to specs to include the brake caliper bracket and caliper.

I would recommend the GM/AC Delco, Timken or BCA Federal Mogul hubs only. The white box cheapies don't last. If you are interested in getting AC Delco brand hubs send me a PM and I can provide a reliable and reasonable source.

Thanks Bnaylor on the heads up, I have torque wrench though it would be considered an antique by most techs today. 118 ft. lbs. is what the manual stated in above previous post calls for on the axle nut. The three hub bolts are 96 ft. lbs. Don't have a part number on this but dealer parts counter tells me hard to find non abs part, not stocked at warehouse. I have had pretty good luck with NAPA parts over the years, plus it's small hometown store. My only beef with them they don't loan or rent special tools.

Thanks Bnaylor on the heads up, I have torque wrench though it would be considered an antique by most techs today. 118 ft. lbs. is what the manual stated in above previous post calls for on the axle nut. The three hub bolts are 96 ft. lbs. Don't have a part number on this but dealer parts counter tells me hard to find non abs part, not stocked at warehouse. I have had pretty good luck with NAPA parts over the years, plus it's small hometown store. My only beef with them they don't loan or rent special tools.

I still have an old wire indicator torque wrench but very seldom use it anymore. :lol:

118 ft-lbs seems low even for a non-ABS hub. I saw different figures in the GM service manual. Maybe the link below will help.

http://www2.vsm.skf.com/Files/Brochures_in_PDF/457377.pdf#search=%22axle%20nut%20torque%20value%2 0chevrolet%20impala%22

I do know that Carquest wheel bearings are made by BCA or Timken.Carquest has two lines,one made in China and one made in Korea.I believe the ones made in Korea are the better ones of the Carquest line.The ones from Carquest are very good without any comebacks

Excellent post, great link, you are right on this I think 118 seemed a bit off to me too....Thanks for that link!

By the way checked out Pep boys on part, not stocked as well but 98 bucks for non abs, lifetime warranty. Seems cheap compared to others. They do the tool rental thing though as well, deposit then money back procedure..

local tool rental $8 for 4 hours on the puller.

Thought I would post the results of my work on replacing the hub bearing. First I got the hub from an online parts supply which I should not name here me thinks :-) Timken part cost 126, which is the best I found for Timken. I am pretty sure it was for ABS, but shoudn't make any diff for non ABS. Pulling the old part was easier than I thought it would be. Had to buy 35mm deep well axle socket 1/2" drive 14$. Brother had an old puller that worked just fine though I probably could have hammered it off fairly easily. Used red Locktite on flange bolts and axle nut after cleaning all surfaces. Test drive after was confirmation that I replaced the right one. So my thought that when turning left increased noise it was the passenger side bearing was correct. Thanks all for your input on this subject.