rotor removal: need help

I am in the process of doing a complete brake overhaul on my 2000. I cannot get the front rotors off. There were three small torx head bolts that appeared to hold the rotor to the wheel bearing- I removed those after a struggle. Tried to get the rotor off and it would not budge. I tried penetrating oil, a hammer, and a large pulley remover and they will not budge! Am I missing something? I assume that the corrosion between the rotor and wheel bearing has these things melded together, but could it be something else? I have never seen rotors this stubborn.

I find it a little strange that Ford used the bolts to attach the rotors to the bearing, I always assumed that the wheel nuts held the rotors on. The new rotors (Bembro slotted) do not have holes for the bolts, why would they put them on the originals?

I also had trouble with the new rear drums not fitting over the new shoes- too tight. The old drums fit fine. I remember someone else having this same problem in this forum. Time to get different drums?

ANY suggestions on the rotors would be greatly appreciated. I'm out of ideas. THanks.

Those torx bolts just hold the rotors on during vehicle assembly. But they are pretty weak metal and one of mine snapped during my change, had to drill the head out.

Mine were stuck to the hub pretty good too, but a heavy rubber mallet should get it off. Just slowly hit the back of the rotor all the way around and it should let loose. Let the penetrating oil work for a while and try it again.

When you put the new rotors on I'd recommend a good coating of anti-seize between the hub and the rotor.

Ditto on what Lewis said:

Plus plenty of penetrant oil ... and soak time. (If you ever get them off the first time .... )

If they still prove to be stubborn, try this: Rest the bottom edge of the rotor on something solid ... like an anvil ... and rap downward with a metal mallet on top edge. (Supporting the bottom of the rotor should protect the wheel bearing.) This will normally break it loose right away.

Thanks. I'm getting ready to go back at it.

BTW, about those torx bolts:

Most of us will never need them and they should be discarded. But would you believe there is a Ford shop-manual-process where the rotors are trued with a cutting machine while the rotors are mounted to the hub? Of course, the bolts are necessary for this.

I don't know if they will help.....but I took pictures throughout the brake work process for the front disk, and rear drum brake jobs.
You can get there from the link in my signature.

I have also read.....as Lewis stated, that the torx screws are to keep the rotors in place while the vehicle is in the assembly process......no need to worry about them on replacement.

Rear drum brakes.....I HIGHLY recommend that you get a drum brake hardware kit for your vehicle......very cheap....and gives you all new springs and clips. I have this shown in my pictures.
You WILL need to adjust the self adjusters IN.....as in pulling the shoes inward, so that you can put the new drums on.
The self adjusters have adjusted the shoes outward......as the linings have worn down.
Now, you have new, thicker linings on your new shoes....and you need to adjust them back in.
I show in my pictures where you should apply lubricant.....use disk brake lubricant......but don't over do it....as you do NOT want any of it to get onto the friction material (linings) or the drum surfaces.

I know from experience.....that your brakes will not work as well if GOO gets onto the linings. In my case.....it was from a dealership brake job......and they got carried away with the anti-squeal goo that goes behind the disk brake pads and the shims.
Which is why, when I did the job.....I did not use any.
I figured.....if they were noisey....I could always go back and put some on.
They were not noisey.......so I left them dry.

Hello

I've used heat with a big hammer to get stuck rotor and drums off. Heat around where the hub and rotor meet.

Dan

Job complete!
What a bear! I have done a few brake jobs before but I have never had an issue like I did with this thing. The rotors just about killed me. I got the one side off by tapping and pulling but it wasn't easy. The other side held on for dear life. I finally got out the grinding wheel and cut it cross wise. I still had to peel this thing off of the hub piece by piece. Unbelievable.

I was having a problem also with the rear drums not fitting over the new shoes. After 3 sets of aftermarket junk, I went to the dealer and got the originals. These still fit very tight, but I got them on. I rode the van home and it felt like I was pulling a heavy trailer. Question: will these seat themselves as I drive the car? By the way, the hardware is new, the adjusters are new and fully closed, and I replaced one of the wheel cylinders (couldn't do the other because the brake line was turning with the nut- will have someone else do that.) Suggestions are appreciated. I looked these things over ten times, but I could not see anything that would be pushing the shoes out.

I flushed the fluid and replaced with synthetic. Brakes work well, but pedal still feels a bit mushy to me-- I like a firm pedal.

Here's a parts rundown if you are interested:
Front: Brembo slotted rotors ($150 pr, buybrakes.com) --a little noisey, and sorry to see that these are made in Mexico!
Carquest premium ceramic pads (about $60, USA )
Anti-rattle metal hardware (about $6)

Rear: Motorcraft drums ($65 each from dealer- guy at the counter was impressed that I was using OE so he gave me employee price. Still pretty reasonable at $71 retail.)
Bendix shoes-riveted. (about $50, made in USA)
Hardware kit -springs etc (about $16, made in USA)
Adjusters- can't remember price,USA
Wheel cylinders (Carquest- Made in USA- $13 each)
2 qts synthetic fluid, 2 cans brake cleaner- $20
Coming home smelling like brake fluid ---priceless!

I went with higher quality products because I have had my brakes fail with my kids in the car--it's one thing I can't skimp on and I'm pretty cheap.

I also added Mobil 1 Extended and a Pure One filter and changed out the fuel filter that looked like it was just about rusted through. My sister had her fuel filter rot out while driving which made me think to look at mine.

Hi
I'm no expert but I would be concerned about the rears. If they are dragging to the point that you can feel the resistance while driving, they are much too tight. I don't have a great idea for you if you are sure that the self adjusters are fully "closed". Perhaps you were inadvertantly sold the wrong part? However, if they are dragging that much, the heat build up will be significant, not only rendering them useless as an aid to stopping the vehicle, but also likely damaging at least the shoes.

Best of luck

I took it out on a spirited run this morning and the resistance seems to have let up. I'm going to drive it for a couple days and put it up on the stands and check the wheel rotation. If they seem locked up, I will pull them off and rethink it. Good point on the overheating issue. Thanks.

A quick burst with an air chisel @ the hub of an old rotor or drum will break it free every time. I've never seen it not work.

Joel

After 3 days of driving everything is good. The rear wheels turn freely and the brakes are great. It is nice to know that I will be able to stop comfortably without the front end wobbling or having to stand on the pedal. Definitely a good investment!
I highly recommend the fluid flush if it has been in there a while. The stuff I pulled out was pretty nasty--brownish greenish gunk. New stuff is almost clear.
Thanks for all the help!