Future Floor Finish is not polishable!

So i put about 4 generous coats on my Integra Type R , let it dry for a few days, and went to polish with my Detail Master polishing kit.

Started off at 3200 and everything was ok up until 4000-6000 where it seemed like it wasn't getting any shinnier..

worked my way up to 12000, it cut through the future and back down to the paint...

so unless u got like LOTS AND LOTS OF COATS then you might be able to polish it..

but my mom has a new floor finish now!

Mr. Super Clear Gloss, here i come!

Heheh, uhm...Taken from http://www.interlog.com/~ask/scale/tips/rub/rub.htm as provided by jay

The total number of clear coats depends on the paint but generally I have 4-5 layers of clear. Something like Future floor wax needs something like 10-20 coats while a 2 part urethane needs 1-2 coats.


Oh well, good luck :)

DAM THAT FUTURE FLOOR WAX
10-20 coats
ARGH
hahaha

ok maybe i'll give it a try..

Ummmm, You should polish the paint first...THEN add the Future. It is a top coat, not a leveler, so don't polish it!

i did
just got all the way as i would with the top coat
to get a killer gloss

i want smooth paint
polishing the top is the only way to get it

Toothpaste, does toothpaste work as polish? On Enamel anyway.

check out my clk...
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t52551.html

30 coats of Future + Turtle Wax = P.A.I.N.!!

nice man

i'm gonna coat some more future and see if i can polish it

Originally posted by djmr2
i did
just got all the way as i would with the top coat
to get a killer gloss

i want smooth paint
polishing the top is the only way to get it

Once you have polilshed the paint, clean off the body, let it dry, go over it lightly with a tack rag, and DIP the body in a bucket of Future. Once dipped, place the body on a scotchbrite pad (so the excess will run off without pooling), and place a box over the body to keep dust from settling on it. Let it sit for 24 hours and it should be perfect! Aircraft modelers do this with canopies, I've done it with my models, and it's a "one-dip" process with no polishing that comes out perfect. Whomever came-up with "30 coats and polishing" has really created much more work than necessary!

Murco, I've heard of aircraft modelers dipping their canopies too, but that's like, what, 1/72 aircraft... their canopies are very very tiny. But, if you dip a large surface and let dry, this is what happens (and this is what happened when I tried dipping my CLK's hood)

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/544760dip.jpg

You can actually SEE, once dried, the thick buildup of clear in recesses! May look good if decalless, but if u put decals there, it'll look like the decal is "floating" on the car! :hehehe: :hehehe:

AND if the model dries at an angle, even a slight angle... you'll see "waves" in the clear coat when dried..... and that ain't gonna look good when light shines on it...

Oops, my mistake, warm the Future a little before you dip so it flows better and won't pool-up in corners. You are right, I've never tried this on a decaled car. I would, however, do the topcoat over the decals. I know the decals look more realistic with their natural finish, but this is one area of realistic modelling that I part ways with.
If I didn't dip, I would use a large "blush-brush" to apply it, and still warm it up - it really works well!

wow, heating it up! I gotta try that!! Thx for the tip! :) maybe that would solve the problem of the liquid building up!