91 Firebird almost done fixing needs some more help

I was wondering if you guys can help. Im pretty sure the are some very qualify people that can help me out here. Me being that i dont know much about this type of problem.

So my car doesnt start. I turn the key, the starter whins and the engine turns but the engine doesnt start. I tried pulling out the altenator. Autozone tested it and its a good altenator. I pulled out my starter, Autozone tested it and found out that it was a good starter. So i put the start back on, exactly the same way it was on there and i go to connect the battery cables to the battery and the engine started turning and it was trying to start without anyone turning the key. I know this might happen if put the wires in the worng place on the starter but i didnt put them in the wrong place. Soo now im wondering why my car wont start and why when i try to connect the battery, the engine turns and trys to start and it wont stop until i pull the cable away from the battery.

Well this thread may be able to help you out. Sounds like a similiar problem another member here just recently had.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=602405

If that's not the case, just let us know. Might also try checking the fuel pump relay.

The starter will only engage whe power is supplied to the s terminal, smaller purple wire on the solenoid. So for some reason you seem to have power on that wire. OR, thae starter was dropped and internally damaged the solenoid and it is bridged :dunno:

As for the no start one of 3 things is missing:

Fuel, spark, or compression.

Well this thread may be able to help you out. Sounds like a similiar problem another member here just recently had.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=602405

If that's not the case, just let us know. Might also try checking the fuel pump relay.


Where can i find this fuel pump fuse. I know the other thread says that its next to the blower but doesnt that mean the A/C? and where exactly is it hidden? hmm

The starter will only engage whe power is supplied to the s terminal, smaller purple wire on the solenoid. So for some reason you seem to have power on that wire. OR, thae starter was dropped and internally damaged the solenoid and it is bridged :dunno:

As for the no start one of 3 things is missing:

Fuel, spark, or compression.


Well i didnt drop it. But maybe i wired it wrong? theres no way because the smaller wire goes on the smaller terminal....Would taking off the starter cause the ignition switch to get stuck?

No the swithc is on the column in the car. Are you 100% positive that the wire is not on the M terminal, which is not useed, and that the positive battery cable is in NO WAY touching the S terminal?

No the swithc is on the column in the car. Are you 100% positive that the wire is not on the M terminal, which is not useed, and that the positive battery cable is in NO WAY touching the S terminal?


Im going to double check. There are three terminals on the starter right? maybe thats whats wrong. Thank you Ill let you know what happens :-)

No the swithc is on the column in the car. Are you 100% positive that the wire is not on the M terminal, which is not useed, and that the positive battery cable is in NO WAY touching the S terminal?

I have good news and bad news. The good news is that i checked the cables on the starter and they were touching, so i fixed that and now i can connect my battery without the car trying to start on its own. Thank you :-)

The Bad News is that the car still doesnt car. All it does is turn and turn. Soo Im wondering what is wrong. I need Fuel, Spark, and Compression. I believe that the fuel pump is working because i had someone put there ear next to the gas tank to listen for the fuel. They heard the fuel pump buzz. anyway i think it might be that hidden fuse? Where can i find that?

Check the inj 1 & 2 fuses (if it is fuel injected), they are in the fuse block.
Check for spark next. Remove 1 spark plug wire and put a spare spark plug on the wire. Have someone crank the car while you hold the plug against a good ground (engine is a good one) and watch the spark at the plug. It should be bright and strong. If you have no spark, it is most likely the ignition module (only replace with an AC Delco one). If you have good spark, the next thing to do is get a noid light (auto parts store) and hook it in place of one of the injectors. Watch the light as you crank the car over, it should flash on and off. If it does...check each connector on the harness to make sure the harness is in tact. If they all check good, ohm out the injectoirs. They should read around 16 ohms, any that are 4 or more ohms above or below that should be considered bad.

1.[x]Fuel pump
2.[x]Fuel filter
3.[x]Starter
4.[x]Altenator
5.[x]Fuses (injector fuses and all)
6.[x]Fuel injectors (Look good)


I havent check the (7.) spark plugs yet but i think i might know what the problem is..Correct me if im wrong please....Today i was checking out the wiring connecting to the fuel injectors...It looks like a rodent(i hate em) chewed them a bit. They dont seem completly chewed but enough for the wire to show and some of the wire ripped.. I have no clue where the heck this wire runs to but it doesnt look to good :-(

i miss my birdy


ps. Thank you to all you that has been helping me fix my car. I appreciate it :-)

there you have it, you have no fuel into the cylinder.. >_<

there you have it, you have no fuel into the cylinder.. >_<


Well im trying to figure out if these wires go to some censors and if they could easily be fixed...here are some photos

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v712/xRICANx/sefdsd.jpg
Kinda dirty :-(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v712/xRICANx/sdsd.jpg

Did i metion that i hate rats. anway if there just censor wires (which will still be fixed) would that still be the problem.(wont start)

timing??? if you had the distributer out and did any rotating to anything its probably off enless you lined up the oil pump drive and got the rotor facing in the cylinder 1ish direction with the #1 plug wire right where the rotor was pointing while the motor is at top dead center.

timing??? if you had the distributer out and did any rotating to anything its probably off enless you lined up the oil pump drive and got the rotor facing in the cylinder 1ish direction with the #1 plug wire right where the rotor was pointing while the motor is at top dead center.


i havent touched the distributer or sparks yet.

I put some gasoline in the cylinders and the engine ran for about 3 seconds. so i know its a fuel problem now. Those chewed wires look like the problem but it looks like it going to take an electrician to fix them.l. i dont kno :-(

Those wires are the IAC -idle air control and TPS, throttle position sensor, and without either, things will not work correctly.

Those wires are the IAC -idle air control and TPS, throttle position sensor, and without either, things will not work correctly.



Do you think i should cut the wires and fuse them together some how?

Thank You to everyone thats helped me. I really appreciate it. Thank you!

Soldering is the approriate way to repair a wire, however, cince these are wires related to the ECM I would say no in this case as it may add resistance to the circuit and hamper the ECMs interpretation of the circuit condiiton. Maybe use a butt connector?

I'm not that versed in this area, so hang on and see if someone else a little more electric saavy can tell you a get around.

Thanks for your suggestion. I think that might work but yea ill wait for some other incite.

so my choices are sodering them back together or using the butt connector.

I'd use the connector if possible. it the damage is really close to the connector making it difficult, then I'd splic in a new. Again, soldering ECM related circuits can leadc to problems and more damage if not done correctly.

I'd use the connector if possible. it the damage is really close to the connector making it difficult, then I'd splic in a new. Again, soldering ECM related circuits can leadc to problems and more damage if not done correctly.


I was just looking at the chewed wires and yea they are really close to the connectors. I would have to splice a new wire in there. Sounds like a good idea. Im going to make some phone calls and see if this method wont risk my car catching flames because of the wires shorting or something. Hopfully not because this really sounds like the easiest way to do the job and get my engine running.


Thank you :-D

Even if you only use crimp style butt connectors and electrical tape instead of heat shrinking how in the bejeezus is you car going to explode? :dunno: :lol:

Even if you only use crimp style butt connectors and electrical tape instead of heat shrinking how in the bejeezus is you car going to explode? :dunno: :lol:


Well i figured that because the fuel injectors are right there and if there was ever a spark or anything. ya kno but im sure that wont though. Just being cautious. :D

There isnt any certain type of wire i have to use to splice these bad boys together?

If you putting new sensor pigtails on, the wiring is already included :dunno:

If you putting new sensor pigtails on, the wiring is already included :dunno:


ohh yea i should just get new sensor pigtails from a junkyard or dealer because the ones i have now are chewed pretty close to the connectors. now i know what you meant. i was thinking about doing it diffrently but that seems easier. Thank you ill try it :-)

If you putting new sensor pigtails on, the wiring is already included :dunno:


welll haha i spliced the wires together and my car blew up..no just KIDDING :-p

So, i did splice them together. The car still wont start. So i figured out again...what the problem is haha...I disconnected the fuel filter and turn the key not until its starts but just so it turns on the cars electrical. I did this so i can check if a stream of gas comes out from the fuel line. There was nothing...I have a bad fuel pump :-( so it should be fun fixing this yikes