Whacky fuel guage

Hello,

2000 LS, 3.8L, roughly 125K miles

I am having a problem with the fuel guage. It started about three weeks ago. When it gets around 1/2 tank or below, it acts very erratically. It will drop to nearly empty, then go back up to 1/2. then it may drop to 1/4, stay there for awhile, then go up (or down). It triggers the low fuel message when it drops low enough. It tends to really only move up or down while the car is moving.

It seems to act correctly when it is full to a little more than 1/2 tank.

Any ideas?

Classic symptoms of a flaky fuel level sending and float unit. You can replace the sending unit by itself without having to replace the whole fuel pump pod and spend big bucks needlessly. See pic below:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelpump03.jpg
Fuel Pump Pod with Level Unit

Thanks bnaylor,

I've looked into doing this, and it appears as though this can be done by going throught the trunk and spare tire area, is that correct?

SR

Behind the rear passenger seat and in the trunk should be an access cover you can remove. You'll have to move aside the trunk carpeting material. The fuel pump pod is held down onto the tank by a big c-clip retainer. There will be two electrical connectors. One to the pressure sensor and one to the fuel pump/level sensor. Then there will be a fuel pressure and return line. One evaporative emissions line. They have a disconnect like the fuel filter. After those are disconnected you pull up and carefully snake it out. Then you can replace the level sensor or the whole pod. Re-install is reverse of above. The pod must be centered over the opening in the gas tank just right or it will be hard to re-install that c-clip. Use vaseline on the big o-ring seal. The seal is important because if not installed properly you will get gas fumes into the cabin and possibly get an evaporative emissions error code.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

I am experiencing the same problem with my wifes 01 Impala 3.8 with 87k miles on it. I have pulled the truck carpet back, removed the plate and access seems to be very straight forward. The only thing I am a bit nervous about is working with fuel and ensuring that there is no fuel pressure when I start to take things apart. If I simply remove the fuel pump fuse and run the car till it quits, then remove the fuel cap, is that good enough to guarantee that fuel wont go everywhere when I take this apart?
Second question is parts availability. My local Chevy dealer has told me that I must purchase the entire "sending unit" and the part alone is $180, plus they want another $200 for labor. Seems like a lot of money for something that appears relatively simple. I am going to call Napa and others but is this a dealer only part? Can the fuel sensor switch be obtained by itself as it appears that is most likely the problem here.
Thanks in advance for any help.

I am experiencing the same problem with my wifes 01 Impala 3.8 with 87k miles on it. I have pulled the truck carpet back, removed the plate and access seems to be very straight forward. The only thing I am a bit nervous about is working with fuel and ensuring that there is no fuel pressure when I start to take things apart. If I simply remove the fuel pump fuse and run the car till it quits, then remove the fuel cap, is that good enough to guarantee that fuel wont go everywhere when I take this apart?
Second question is parts availability. My local Chevy dealer has told me that I must purchase the entire "sending unit" and the part alone is $180, plus they want another $200 for labor. Seems like a lot of money for something that appears relatively simple. I am going to call Napa and others but is this a dealer only part? Can the fuel sensor switch be obtained by itself as it appears that is most likely the problem here.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the engine run it out is fine. You will still get a little residual fuel out of the pressure and return line at the fuel pump assembly. Also, when the pod comes out of the hole do not tilt it. There will be fuel in the pod so have plenty of rags around that area. Also, disconnect the battery negative before doing any work back there.

Yes, it is GM dealer only. You can get the sensor for around $80 - $90 at sources other than the GM Dealer. Authorized AC Delco Parts dealers are cheaper and checkout GMPartsDirect.

I replaced one in a '01 Impala LS a few months ago. Pretty straight forward DIY job. Send me a PM and I will provide a reliable source.

Even if you take your time it is no more than a 2 hour job.

Pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the engine run it out is fine. You will still get a little residual fuel out of the pressure and return line at the fuel pump assembly. Also, when the pod comes out of the hole do not tilt it. There will be fuel in the pod so have plenty of rags around that area. Also, disconnect the battery negative before doing any work back there.

Yes, it is GM dealer only. You can get the sensor for around $80 - $90 at sources other than the GM Dealer. Authorized AC Delco Parts dealers are cheaper and checkout GMPartsDirect.

I replaced one in a '01 Impala LS a few months ago. Pretty straight forward DIY job. Send me a PM and I will provide a reliable source.

Even if you take your time it is no more than a 2 hour job.
bnaylor,
Thanks so much for your advice. My experience with this process was just as you described. Start to finish was 1.5 hours and I am certainly glad that I got just the sensor as it only added about 10 minutes to the whole job. Not only did I save $300 on this repair, but I will also never have to take my local GM dealers answer for parts as the final answer ever again.

Bnaylor and Hawkeye1956,

Would that part be the Sender/Connector unit that is around $83?

I have a PN from gmpartsdirect.

Thats about right though them. Of course, a GM dealer is alot higher.

The AC Delco part number is: SK1051, Sensor Fuel Level

See PM I sent you.

Thanks Bnaylor.

I'll post the progress of my repair. Hopefully, it will be the same as
Hawkeye1956.

Is the fuel pump fuse in addition to the fuel pump relay?

Is the fuel pump fuse in addition to the fuel pump relay?

It is technically part of it. Circuit wise it is before the fuel pump relay. If it is blown the fuel pump relay would not energize.

Just an update. The replacement of the fuel guage sensor took me a little over an hour to complete. Everything seems to be working properly. Thanks for the advice and information.

can someone get me a part number and where to find this part, because i'm having the same issue with my fuel guage.

can someone get me a part number and where to find this part, because i'm having the same issue with my fuel guage.

The GM Part number is 89060197, Fuel Tank Meter Sender, GM List $160.00.

Send me a PM for a GM/AC Delco parts source.

Thanks... Does anyone if I can get the part cheaper somewhere else?

Yes,

You can get the part less expensive. Send a PM to bnaylor. He'll help you.

Thanks BNAYLOR, I appreciate your help.

Thanks to BNaylor for all the helpful information.

I also came across the following that may be useful to anyone attempting to do this.

Document ID# 489730
2000 Chevrolet Impala


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fuel Sender Assembly Replacement
Removal Procedure
Caution: Fuel Vapors can collect while servicing fuel system parts in enclosed areas such as a trunk. To reduce the risk of fire and increased exposure to vapors:

• Use forced air ventilation such as a fan set outside of the trunk.

• Plug or cap any fuel system openings in order to reduce fuel vapor formation.

• Clean up any spilled fuel immediately.

• Avoid sparks and any source of ignition.

• Use signs to alert others in the work area that fuel system work is in process.


Notice: Clean all of the following areas before performing any disconnections in order to avoid possible contamination in the system:

• The fuel pipe connections

• The hose connections

• The areas surrounding the connections


Important: For fuel sender assemblies accessible through the rear compartment, completely remove the rear compartment carpet before removing the fuel sender access panel.


Important: Always replace the fuel sender O-rings when installing the fuel sender assembly.


Important: The modular fuel sender assembly will spring-up when the snap ring is removed.


Important: Always maintain cleanliness when servicing the fuel system components.






Relieve the fuel system fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure .
Remove the rear compartment trim panel. Refer to Compartment Trim Panel Replacement - Rear in Body Rear End.
Remove the seven nuts retaining the fuel sender access panel.
Remove the fuel sender access panel.
Disconnect the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor electrical connector.
Disconnect the fuel sender electrical connector.
Clean the fuel pipes and the fuel sender assembly to prevent fuel contamination during removal.
Disconnect the quick-connect fittings at the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Quick Connect Fitting(s) Service (Plastic Collar) .



Remove the snap ring retaining the fuel sender.
Remove the modular fuel sender assembly.
Inspect and clean the O-ring sealing surfaces on the fuel sender assembly .
Installation Procedure
Notice: Always re-attach the fuel lines and fuel filter with all original type fasteners and hardware.Do not repair sections of fuel pipes.

Important: Care should be taken not to fold or twist the fuel pump strainer when installing the fuel sender assembly, as this will restrict the fuel flow. Also, ensure that the fuel pump strainer does not block the full travel of the float arm.


Important: Ensure that the snap ring retaining the fuel sender assembly is fully seated within the tab slots on the fuel tank.






Position the new O-ring for the fuel sender assembly on the fuel tank.
Install the fuel sender assembly into the fuel tank.
Install the snap ring retaining the fuel sender assembly while holding the fuel sender in place.
Connect the quick-connect fittings at the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Quick Connect Fitting(s) Service (Plastic Collar) .
Connect the fuel sender electrical connector.
Connect the FTP sensor electrical connector.
Install the fuel filler cap.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Inspect for leaks using the following procedure:
Turn ON the ignition, for 2 seconds.
Turn OFF the ignition, for 10 seconds.
Turn ON the ignition.
Inspect for leaks.




Install the fuel sender access panel.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the nuts retaining the fuel sender access panel.

Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 10 N·m (88 lb in)

Install the rear compartment trim panel. Refer to Compartment Trim Panel Replacement - Rear in Body Rear End.
Install the spare tire, the jack, and the spare tire cover.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 489730
2000 Chevrolet Impala

Thanks to BNaylor for all the helpful information.

I also came across the following that may be useful to anyone attempting to do this.

You're welcome. Glad we could be of help. Here is a pic to go along with the tech procedure that was posted.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fpaccess.jpg
Fuel Pump Access Location (Trunk)

im having a problem removing one of the 3 quick connect lines/fuel lines. I cant get the connector in the center out. I've been trying for a few hours now. is there something im missing? my car is just disabled right now.

im having a problem removing one of the 3 quick connect lines/fuel lines. I cant get the connector in the center out. I've been trying for a few hours now. is there something im missing? my car is just disabled right now.

Not that I know of. Push in on the retainers on the quick disconnect and carefully pull hard. It should pop off just like the other two. I recall the center was the return line. Is that how it is marked?

the middle connector does not have retainers!!! Is it suppose to? i just took some pics i'll try to upload em.

i cant read the wording on the cable i only can read the word TYPE.

i dont know if this will help but here are photos

http://www1.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=143156763/a=84985327_84985327/t_=84985327

the middle connector does not have retainers!!! Is it suppose to? i just took some pics i'll try to upload em.

Your pic has the same as mine. I recall it had some sort of retainer but it was different from the two outer which are fuel pressure and return lines similar to the fuel filter. The middle is for evaporative emissions. All I remember is I was able to get it off without breaking anything. Here are some pics I took of the job. As you can see I was able to remove the fuel pump pod assembly. :dunno:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelpump_top.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelpump_top2.jpg

i notice in your pic you performed the job from the interior - i'll try to see if i can work from that area. im gonna keep trying.i tried with plyers i dont want to break it. i may have to leave it open overnite. i'll be back at 9.

i notice in your pic you performed the job from the interior - i'll try to see if i can work from that area. im gonna keep trying.i tried with plyers i dont want to break it. i may have to leave it open overnite. i'll be back at 9.

Absolutely be careful. You will get a better view and leverage from the interior. If that plastic part from the fuel pump assembly breaks you'll have to get a complete fuel pump assembly. Good luck and keep us posted.

I do have a complete fuel pump. i tried and it just wont budge. i cant get the passenger seats open. i was in the trunk for a few hours. i dont know if it is possible to fold the rear seats on my car.... 00 base

Excuse me for jumping in but I'm looking at "bnaylors" pics and trying to see how that center fitting might release... Have you tried pushing on it and spinning it, maybe 90 degrees(?), and then pulling it off??... I'm wondering if there are flats, or notches on the center fitting on the pod that the evap. line connector mates to...

i tried pressing the bottom and pulling. i tried squezing the circular rim with my hand and pulling, i tried squezing the circular rim with pliers and pulling, i tried pulling if i keep pulling harder either the cable or the fuel pump will break. i'll try agin in the morning.

What I am suggesting is to first PUSH in towards the center of the pod and give it a twist and then pull it off... Maybe there are tabs and notches that have to be aligned to allow them to separate...

i'll try that. thx

thx to all

i got it out by breaking it. i was just pulling and squezing it and it just popped. the tip of the pump snapped off. the tip was still in the quick connect and i saw that it was being held by 2 tabs which were in the 12 and 6 oclock position. i was squeezing those positions but it wouldnt go. so after i broke it i tried to squeeze and get the tip out. it still wouldnt come out so i had to bend the plastic ring around the quick release and pull the tip out with plyers. i think i did the right thing. i dont think it would of ever come out since even after breaking it it wouldnt come out the correct manner. maybe its cause my impala is old 2000 there is some rust in that area.....

i posted pics illustrating this on
http://www1.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=143159978/a=84985327_84985327/t_=84985327

click on play slideshow for the most hq pics

now there no going back. from what i see i have to puch downwards and twist clockwise and it will pop out. the ring is kind of rusted........

can i use wd40 or vaseline to get the ring looseo]hf

can i use wd40 or vaseline to get the ring looseo]hf

Use the WD40 if you have that much rust. Also, vacuum that area before pulling the fuel pump assembly so nothing drops into the gas tank. To remove the ring all you need is a flatblade screw driver and pry inwards towards the connectors.

The fuel pump pod is spring loaded so it will pop up a few inches or so. Underneath is a big o-ring seal so make sure it is good and can be re-used. Coat with Vaseline. The tank seal is very important. When re-installing the pod make sure it is perfectly centered in the gas tank hole/opening or it will be difficult installing the retaining clip. Good luck!

i got it out by breaking it. i was just pulling and squezing it and it just popped. the tip of the pump snapped off. the tip was still in the quick connect and i saw that it was being held by 2 tabs which were in the 12 and 6 oclock position. i was squeezing those positions but it wouldnt go. so after i broke it i tried to squeeze and get the tip out. it still wouldnt come out so i had to bend the plastic ring around the quick release and pull the tip out with plyers. i think i did the right thing. i dont think it would of ever come out since even after breaking it it wouldnt come out the correct manner. maybe its cause my impala is old 2000 there is some rust in that area.....

It sounds like a PUSH, 90 degree TWIST, and a good hard PULL, was the way to get that evap. fitting released properly??

i got it out with a flathead no wd40 was need thanks bnaylor. so all i have to do now is coat the plastic ring with vaseline and re-installing everything should be 10 mins. i have 2 questions though. my fuel pump was not spring loaded it didn't pop out....what do you think about that..and on the new pump i have the fuel tank meter/floater is positioned differently do you think this will be a prob in fitment. the pics are at http://www1.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=143159978/a=84985327_84985327/t_=84985327

thanks alot im almost done

Gems (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=406868)
there are two tabs at the 12 and 6 oclock position. you have to squeeze 12 and 6 position or 3 and 9 oclock position if you have the cable at a different angle and pull it out. no twisting needed. if you look at the pic i posted you'll see the 2 tabs that were holding the pump http://www1.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=143159978/PictureID=2672037496/a=84985327_84985327/t_=84985327

Interesting... So those tabs just snap over the raised ring on the fitting?

yeah...there is something wrong with my tabs the only way i could remove the pump was to break it off. i had no choice but to break it off.

Interesting... So those tabs just snap over the raised ring on the fitting?

Hey Bob, Happy New Year. If I didn't know any better I'd say it sounds like you are getting geared up or OJTing to replace a fuel pump. :lol: Is it still acting up?

Hey Bob, Happy New Year. If I didn't know any better I'd say it sounds like you are getting geared up or OJTing to replace a fuel pump. :lol: Is it still acting up?

Happy New Year to you also Bob... I apologize to "zoemayne" if it appears that I am hijacking this thread... I am not... I'm just learning what I can in anticipation of my own fuel pump replacement... To answer your question Bob, YES, it's still acting up VERY intermittantly... In fact, about 1 hour after picking the car up from the local dealer who had just replaced a busted CV boot we ran some errands, starting and stopping the car several times... Sure enough, one time it didn't want to restart until after we let the car sit for 5 minutes... So one of the possible flaky items on my list is the fuel pump itself, so I'm filling my brain up with information on the job!... I enjoy making myself crazy :screwy: BTW, what does "OJTing" mean?... Sorry again "zoemayne"...

Happy New Year to you also Bob... I apologize to "zoemayne" if it appears that I am hijacking this thread... I am not... I'm just learning what I can in anticipation of my own fuel pump replacement... To answer your question Bob, YES, it's still acting up VERY intermittantly... In fact, about 1 hour after picking the car up from the local dealer who had just replaced a busted CV boot we ran some errands, starting and stopping the car several times... Sure enough, one time it didn't want to restart until after we let the car sit for 5 minutes... So one of the possible flaky items on my list is the fuel pump itself, so I'm filling my brain up with information on the job!... I enjoy making myself crazy :screwy: BTW, what does "OJTing" mean?... Sorry again "zoemayne"...

That is a good decision. Better to be prepared. OJT= On the Job Training...lol. :lol:

Good luck and we hope you get the issue resolved.

well I got it installed............record time 20 hrs. but apparently the pump is bad. it said low as i expected when i started it up. i went to the gas station put 8 gallons and the meter read the car was 2/3 full. then when i drove off i hit a corner amazingly the gas increased. so today I went to a gas station and fulled it up this time and it still read 2/3 full. Also the meter was jumping from full to low(less frequently). i bought the pump used........... I may just buy a new pump. or I may just buy the meter (i dont know if i can uninstall this pump without breaking it.) disappointing.

hey guys,

I was talking about my problem that is Sensor level for Chevy Impala-01 3.8 of this part in the pic below:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/fuelpump03.jpg

But don't be surprace and tell me please: WHY the sensor level in the dash of the car shows Zero or Full and jumps from a level to level?
I mean, becouse a wire, or stick or what part of the Sensor was broken< is broken, or disconnected or by what reason it show this?
Hole unit is 4160, just the Sensor is $80. But maybe I can to fix a broken part of Sensor and just to put beack the same part again?
Please can someone explane me that?

I replaced mine this weekend. Not to dificult. Couple of hours.

Got the replacment off the web for $106 including shipping.

I took these pictures to help remember how to put it back together

http://picasaweb.google.com/pacostello/2001BuickRegalFuelPumpLevelSensor#

I replaced mine this weekend. Not to dificult. Couple of hours.

Got the replacment off the web for $106 including shipping.

I took these pictures to help remember how to put it back together

http://picasaweb.google.com/pacostello/2001BuickRegalFuelPumpLevelSensor#

Thanks for contributing to the forum. However, this is an old thread so it has been closed.