amsoil?

Has anyone had experience with using Amsoil synthetic oil? I am thinking of adding to my '00 3.8 (85k) on my next change. I am hearing great things about this stuff, but am anxious and leary to get more than 3,000 to 5,000 between oil changes. I would also like to add to my '90 nissan p'up (120k) but I have heard it may cause old seals to leak. Any comments/experience would be appreciated. Thanks!

I use Mobil 1 Synthetic in my 99. I have not noticed any ill effects. Although Synthetic and conventional oils are compatible I have heard that you should not keep switching back and forth as this could cause problems with the seals.

Has anyone had experience with using Amsoil synthetic oil?

Yes, we are current uses of said oil in our '98.


I am thinking of adding to my '00 3.8 (85k) on my next change. I am hearing great things about this stuff, but am anxious and leary to get more than 3,000 to 5,000 between oil changes.

Amsoil offers a few different oils, and I'm sorry that I cannot give you specifics right now on all the veriations. We use the 25,000/1 year stuff in 5W-30, and change it each fall.

I would also like to add to my '90 nissan p'up (120k) but I have heard it may cause old seals to leak. Any comments/experience would be appreciated. Thanks!

GOOD quality synthetic oils (actually all) are completely compatable, and will NEVER CAUSE a leak. That is vicious rumor spread by people who either want to discredit synthetics, or simply are ignorant of the facts.

As proof, I offer this: We purchase ALL our vehicles used. None have fewer than 70,000 miles on them at purchase, and ALL use Amsoil Fully Synthetic engine, trans, gear oils (as needed). There are zero "leaking" vehicles in my driveway, except for the Volvo which has a damaged drainplug gasket that will be replaced at the next service. Btw, that Volvo, has 236,000 miles on it, and our WS 117,000.

I also use Mobil 1 in "everything" ... cars, trucks, mowers, etc ... haven't put it in my breakfast cereal, ..yet.

But also put it in a '93 Nissan pickup that we got a few years ago ... on its "last leg" at approx 80 Kmiles. Poor maintenance. Little coolant in radiator ... little oil in motor (molasses). Engine smoked (a bunch!), clicked, and rattled. Its a wonder it made it home. I knew I was facing an engine job, but I thought I would delay it as long as possible by using synthetic oil and doing all other overdue maintanance tasks. BTW, I also frequently add a few ounces of regular motor oil to the gas tank at fill-up (on all my vehicles) ... but I have never added any other chemicals to the engine or gas tank.

The truck now has 210 Kmiles on it. No engine work has yet been done. And it took some time, but it now does not smoke, click or rattle. HOW can this be???

My theory is twofold. Initially (at 80 kmiles) perhaps the rings were carbon-siezed in the piston grooves ... and perhaps the hydraulic lifters were gummed up internally. Overtime, perhaps the better motor oil did some cleaning in both of these areas ... eliminating some piston slap and some valve noise.

But I'm just guessing. ???

Thanks for all the good feedback, I am going to give it a go.

Modmech: Did you use the Amsoil engine flush prior to the changeovers? What about filters? What do you use and how often do you change the filter? Where do you buy the products? A local hardware store carries it, but I understand you can buy direct from company online?

Also, for the Mobil 1 users, what kind of mileage are you getting between oil changes?

Thanks.

3500 - 4000 miles for me.

I have left it for up to 8000 Km. It did not look too good but I doubt that looks in itself means much.

I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic in my 1997 Avalon I purchased in 2000 with 35,000 miles. It now has 80,000 and runs like a baby. I change the oil once a year just before winter, I put about 8,000 miles per year on it. I also use a good quality filter, the Purolator PUREONE. I expect this car to last at least another 10 years, I am about to dispose of my Toyota Corolla I purchased new in 1988, still runs great, too many cars...

Mobil 1 now has an Extended Life synthetic, I may switch to that this fall.

I believe you would NOT want to use a flush that might dislodge and move around alot of grime that has built up over the years, best to just pour out the old stuff and pour in the synthetic. Besides, who is to say that you have gotten all that flush out? Any that remains would tend to thin your oil. Just more crap to take your money...

From what I have read, Amsoil is fine.

The thing about extended oil change interval with ANY oil is possible coolant leaks into the oil. This has NOTHING to do with the oil type.
The Windstar is known for several leaks that put coolant into the oil.
With an extended oil change interval, you could end up with serious problems due to the higher concentration of coolant in the oil....as it will increase over time.....More time = more coolant in the oil.
So....I would be certain that there is not a coolant leak into the oil BEFORE extending the oil change interval.
Visit www.blackstone-labs.com to have a free sample kit and mailer sent to you. It will then cost you about $20 to have your oil tested.
It will be the best $20 you spend......if considering extending your oil change interval.
Coolant will cause serious damage long before you can detect it's presence by any "eyeball" method.
If your vehicle's coolant level has a slight drop over time......suspect a leak.

Amsoil is also getting good praise for their EaO line of oil filters.
I saw a cut-away....and it is impressive.
I understand that they are expensive.....but an awesome filter.
Wix (also sold as Napa "Gold) is another good brand.
I would be carefull of how long I push a filter between changes......make sure that you get a good filter if you are pushing the change interval.

There is a product called AutoRx that you can get from www.autoRx.com that I have used. Follow the directions.
I would stay AWAY from any solvent based "motor flush".

I went with the Mobil 1 Extended Life oil and filter in the Nissan. I may hold off on the Windstar until I have the oil checked out for coolant. Is the 2000 3.8 known for coolant leaks? I haven't had any problems yet, but I understand,Wiswind, what you're saying about keeping an eye on the oil.

Still a little leary about the extended change interval but I usually only put about 8-9k per year on either vehicle. Thanks to all for the input.

Good point, Wiswind, about the coolant contaminating the oil. Even though I've done the front cover gasket job; and tried to do a super-good job ... I'm not 100% convinced that the leak is absolutely stopped at 7000 miles after repair.

I may try that lab test.

Pitteach, You will want to change the oil at LEAST once a year.
If you are doing real short trips......like just to the store and back.....you might even want to go to every 6 months.
Of the mileage has a fair number of trips (spaced out throughout the year, in between the short hops to the store) with the engine running, say 30 minutes or more.....then it is not so bad.
Point being.....short hops to the store.....where the engine does not get good and warm.....and get rid of water vapor......are really hard on a vehicle.
Moisture and contaminents can build up in the oil.....breaking it down.
For instance...when you first start your engine.....for the first short while.....drops of water come out of the tail pipe.......after the vehicle has been run for a while....everything is warmed up.....and moisture has a chance to evaporate out of the exhaust system and the engine.

The Blackstone-labs test will give you moisture content and fuel content of the oil.......which are 2 things that go up with the short trip driving that I mentioned.
If they are not high.....and other indicators are good, then you can consider longer oil change intervals. But if moisture and / or fuel is high.......then you would need to look into shorter oil change interval or driving habits.
They will tell you if something is considered too high....and suggest the most likely causes of that......
For an extra $10 (I think) they will test the "TBN" which is an indication of how much of the additive package is left. Which can be used in determining if you are leaving the oil in there too long.

They explain it better on their website than I can....and also have sample test results that would be as you will see them. They will mail you your results AND email them, if you give them your email address. If they see a problem they will even call you on the phone, if you give them your phone number. You usually have your results within a week of your sending the sample in....including mail time to them. I have had results in 2 days from dropping the sample off at the post office.

I've always been a proponent of changing the oil/filter EVERY 3000 miles with any API/SAE properly rated dino oil. I've always heard the "change to synthetic in a high mileage car and YOUR SEALS ARE SHOT". I heard it but kinda didn't believe it. I think I'll try synthetic next change. Big step for a cheapskate like me, LOL.

It's always intertaining to hear the authoritative and heart-felt advice that is available from the uninformed.

I've always been a proponent of changing the oil/filter EVERY 3000 miles with any API/SAE properly rated dino oil. I've always heard the "change to synthetic in a high mileage car and YOUR SEALS ARE SHOT". I heard it but kinda didn't believe it. I think I'll try synthetic next change. Big step for a cheapskate like me, LOL.

That line about the seals is TOTAL BS, and the internet has spread this like wildfire. People are afraid of doing ANY harm to such a large capital expense like a car engine, so they stay clear of synthetics. It really is a shame.

At 3000 mile intervals, you will be just fine with ANY oil. Most people DO NOT qualify for "severe use" intervals of 3,000 miles but for "standard" intervals of 5,000 to 7,500 (manufacturer's differ) miles.

To answer the other question, no I did NOT do any flushing or anything different than just change the oil and filter when I switched.

I too used to use Mobil 1, and I am not making ANY claims as to it's quality at all as I believe it is perfectly good synthetic oil. However, I REFUSE to purchase it since Mobil got "in bed with" Wal-Mart and the ONLY place that it can now be had at a reasonable price is WM (due to a marketing agreement where WM gets better pricing than even the local Mobil DISTRIBUTOR!).

Good points. I'm not a big Wal-Mart fan. I'm going with the Amsoil 7,500 mi product in the Windstar and 6 month oil change. Thanks.

Well, I made the jump...Changed the 98 Windstar 3.8L (130k miles) and 93 Escort 1.9L (194k miles) to synthetic...I used SuperTech 5W30 Full Synthetic from Wally World...I don't like them much either but it had the same ratings as mobil1 and was $12.50 for 5 qts!!!! I voted with my wallet. I don't drive the Windstar enough to notice any difference in engine sound, smoothness - it has 1500 miles on synthetic. NOW the scort has 2000 miles on synthetic...I SWEAR it runs smoother, idles better and seems peppier...I could be crazy but I LIKE IT. I really think the valve tapping sound is lower. And THE SEALS ARE NOT BLOWING LIKE FIRE HYDRANTS!!!!

Well, I made the jump...Changed the 98 Windstar 3.8L (130k miles) and 93 Escort 1.9L (194k miles) to synthetic...I used SuperTech 5W30 Full Synthetic from Wally World...I don't like them much either but it had the same ratings as mobil1 and was $12.50 for 5 qts!!!! I voted with my wallet. I don't drive the Windstar enough to notice any difference in engine sound, smoothness - it has 1500 miles on synthetic. NOW the scort has 2000 miles on synthetic...I SWEAR it runs smoother, idles better and seems peppier...I could be crazy but I LIKE IT. I really think the valve tapping sound is lower. And THE SEALS ARE NOT BLOWING LIKE FIRE HYDRANTS!!!!

I don't think you can go wrong with a better quality oil and synthetics are accepted to be superior over conventionals however I believe there are differences within the synthetic world as well. Ignoring the the semi-synthetics and synthetic blends there is more than one method of producing "full-synthetics." There are those name brands that are equivalent to Mobil1 but most of the "house" brands such as the Supertech or the Motormaster are not equivalent. I know you don't always get what you pay for but................. quite often you do. That being said there is certainly nothing wrong with choosing based partially on cost. Your oil probably exceeds every requirement for your car.

Really, my one grief with Amsoil: I can't just go to the store and buy it.

No, I don't want to drag around to find out who my local rep is. No, I don't feel like ordering oil change supplies on-line.

I use Mobil1 in all of my vehicles. Works fine; I can buy it most anywhere.

As for the supertech walmart brand I think I was told quakerstate makes it.You can ask the Auto manager at your Walmart and they should tell you. I do know for a fact that the Douglas tire war mart sells is the same as a Kelly tire depending on the size and brand far as HP or reg.douglus tires are the same compound and only side wall and tread that differ. I know this because i make them at Goodyear which owns Kelly springfield and Donlop tire. As for quality Wal-mart is very demanding that the balance and specs are just as good as our own brand.They are. That should be the same for Supertech motor oil. I have used it before in my car and seem to be just fine for me. I do run Mobil 1 synthetic in the van. Just never been a big fan of Quakerstate or penzoil. Although I have heard rumor that quakerstate make Motorcraft oil which i no longer use but It was good as well.Just wanted fully synthetic versus synthetic blend...

I have heard that SuperTech oil is made by Quaker State, also. I'm quite certain SuperTech oil filters are made by Champion Labs - I called them and inquired - they readily confirmed it. Champion filters are thought to be much better than Fram and the Frams cost 60-70% more...Could be the orange color - gets TN Vol fans everytime.