Hard Shift 1-2 in 99 Windstar

New here but I figure you all might lend some help or advice.

After reading many posting here and else where about Trany problems with the Windstar I am trying to decide what to do next. I know the pre 99s had a defect in the internal shifting mechanism but I have not heard of a similar issue with the 99 and above.

My windstar has had intermittent shifting problems from 1st to 2nd. It is a hard shift, some times so hard it throw you forward in the van. It almost seems like it goes into reverse for a split second before going into 2nd. I say that becuase as kid I did that one time while driving down the road, I pushed the floor shifter into reverse once, the car did not like it all. I noticed that the RPMs does not jump up or down when it happens, but once it does shift the RPMs do drop like they should.

Anyway, this has happen since the day I bought the car new and took in for service many times up to the 36K warrantee ran out and they could never reproduce the problem. I am at 95K and it is still doing it and I have changed the fluids twice, and a complete flush and filter change this last time.

I also read here where someone said they had a similar problem and it appear to happen more offend when makeing a hard turn to the right. I can say this definitely happens with my van. This problem happens if I am accelerating slow or fast and you never know when it will happen. Mostly recently, I have been noticing the traction control light coming on right after it happen. The van now thinking it is loosing traction.

I am concern the trany will die at point in time which is not convient since we use the van to travel lots. Do you all think it is on its way out and if it is where is best to have it looked at. Also am I looking at full trany replacement or is there something that simply needs adjusted or replaced.

TIA

There was a TSB for this situation calling for the ATF to be kept at the top of the hash on the dipstick.

There was a TSB for this situation calling for the ATF to be kept at the top of the hash on the dipstick.

I am assuming you mean a technical service bulletin, was this specific to the 99 and newer vans or across the board. The dealers never mentions this and I would say the dealers I have dealt with were very good and tried to help as best they could. But it is hard to fix something if you do not see it happen or feel it in this case.

I know once they said a number of the mounting bolts we lose so they tightened everyone on the motor and frame, but the problem never went away.

Greg

I am assuming you mean a technical service bulletin, was this specific to the 99 and newer vans or across the board. The dealers never mentions this and I would say the dealers I have dealt with were very good and tried to help as best they could. But it is hard to fix something if you do not see it happen or feel it in this case.

I know once they said a number of the mounting bolts we lose so they tightened everyone on the motor and frame, but the problem never went away.

Greg

I am surprised that the dealer did not know this. Perhaps they tried this aand just never mentioned it. IIRC the TSB is for 99 and up and it is to reduced the jerkiness between 1st and 2nd.

The low-intermediate servo overhaul is fairly simple to do while the tranny is in place. To rebuild this device takes 1 gasket and 2 o-ring seals (about $20), and about 1/2 quart of fluid will be lost. (Check to make sure both circlips are in place on each side of piston.)

I would suggest you do this service before doing any thing expensive.

Also check the drivetrain wiring harness for chafing against ac tubing on firewall. You'll have to remove cowling for a good look.

The low-intermediate servo overhaul is fairly simple to do while the tranny is in place. To rebuild this device takes 1 gasket and 2 o-ring seals (about $20), and about 1/2 quart of fluid will be lost. (Check to make sure both circlips are in place on each side of piston.)

I would suggest you do this service before doing any thing expensive.

Hay 12Ounce

Is the protrusion out of the back of the trannie on the right side under the heat shield this low-intermediate servo? Would this be the same for a 95?

Thanks

Dan

I would guess "yes" .... but am not sure about the '95. You might drop by the dealer parts counter and get an exploded view of your model ... that will show you definitely.

I have also noticed, just to muddy the waters some here, that when the ATF gets older the 1-2 shifts tend to firm up substantially. This is especially true when the incorrect ATF is used in them.

The correct ATF is "Mercon V" for the '98 and newer transaxles in the Wind/FreeStars.

If you change the ATF, it is very important that you clear the adaptive shift strategies in the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 15 minutes or so. This will allow the computer to re-learn proper sifting with the new ATF, and avoid possible VERY costly ATX damage.

If you change the ATF, it is very important that you clear the adaptive shift strategies in the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 15 minutes or so. This will allow the computer to re-learn proper sifting with the new ATF, and avoid possible VERY costly ATX damage.

I have never done this but now you have me thinking.....

Well I got some good information to check on. I am hoping when the Dealer did the complete flush and filter change just recently they used the proper fuild, filled it all the way and did what is need to make sure the computer does the right things.

Would you say it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery anyway to see what happens.

Hey LeSabre97mint,

I was looking at your pictures and notice you picture for the Akebono Ceramic Pad, i put a set on my van and subaru and they are the best brakes I have every used. No dust and the last and have great stopping power. I will only use them in the future considering I was going through break every 20k to 25k miles on the van. I have 40K on Akebono and they are showing very little wear.

If you change the ATF, it is very important that you clear the adaptive shift strategies in the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 15 minutes or so. This will allow the computer to re-learn proper sifting with the new ATF, and avoid possible VERY costly ATX damage.

I was thinking about this a bit and it seems to me that the PCM is constantly changing its adaptive strategy. So once the fluid is changed the PCM will learn the new parameters (shifting differences ect) within the same 10-15 minutes. Starting from the default factory settings (by disconnecting the battery) in my opinion would be farther from the new correct parameters then the old residual parameters left from before the fluid change (where they would at least be close.)

53 F100, are the hard shifts when driving straight or when you make a turn? Do you also have any soft shifts/slipping?

I was thinking about this a bit and it seems to me that the PCM is constantly changing its adaptive strategy. So once the fluid is changed the PCM will learn the new parameters (shifting differences ect) within the same 10-15 minutes. Starting from the default factory settings (by disconnecting the battery) in my opinion would be farther from the new correct parameters then the old residual parameters left from before the fluid change (where they would at least be close.)

Actually, the PCM takes many hundreds of miles to completely adapt to new ATF no matter which way you do it.

When starting from "learned" strategies with old ATF, the shifts are slower and softer due to the fact that old ATF is WAY more "grippy" than new ATF. So you get LOTS of slippage with fresh ATF unless the PCM adaptive strategies are cleared back to zero - by disconnecting the battery.

When starting from a cleared PCM, just as with a new vehicle, the shifts start off firm and quick (relatively speaking of course) as that condition is from new fresh ATF - just like the factory.

Actually, the PCM takes many hundreds of miles to completely adapt to new ATF no matter which way you do it.

When starting from "learned" strategies with old ATF, the shifts are slower and softer due to the fact that old ATF is WAY more "grippy" than new ATF. So you get LOTS of slippage with fresh ATF unless the PCM adaptive strategies are cleared back to zero - by disconnecting the battery.

When starting from a cleared PCM, just as with a new vehicle, the shifts start off firm and quick (relatively speaking of course) as that condition is from new fresh ATF - just like the factory.

Sounds logical. Thanks for the clarification.