Dual climate control blowing heat on AC (DCCV removal instructions in post #107)

Hello Rod,
Worked on car this morning and swapped out the driver side sensor with the passenger side sensor. I still have the same problem. Cold air on driver side and hottttt air on passenger side. The exchange made no difference. Is it the dual climate hot water valve? I have tried disconnecting it and reconnecting it with ac on. Is it stuck open? Any info you may have would be highly appreciated.

Hello. I'm new here and was wondering how to find the temp. sensors inside the car, so i can try and switch them around to see if thats my problem. I have a 2005 LS w/o heated seats. Thanks, Charles

Welcome to the forum!

I'm not sure about the 2005. On the 2002, you can stick your head under the dash and look up, the sensors are white and somewhat obviously installed in the center ductwork. There were three on the driver's side (or was it two?) and one on the passenger side.

Have you tried the self diagnostics that have been posted a few times on the forum?

-Rod

Thanks for the fast reply. I have just done the check and it says 27-98 & 12-65...I assume thats a new DCCV ? If thats it do you have any idea how much the cost ? Thanks, Charles

I don't think I'd start with a DCCV. The 1265 code indicates Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure. The 2798 indicates that the driver coolant control valve circuit short to ground. That one will take some troubleshooting to verify the problem is the DCCV rather than the wiring between it and the DATC control unit.

-Rod

Thanks, what i did was swap around the two hoses coming to the DCCV and it started working the opposite way. For a temp. solution i just plugged off the one side with a cap and plugged the hose. seems to work for now. I have heat and air on the driver side and just air on the passenger side. Ill take it to the dealer Tue. hope all is well till then. Thanks for all your help. Charles

I don't think I'd start with a DCCV. The 1265 code indicates Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure. The 2798 indicates that the driver coolant control valve circuit short to ground. That one will take some troubleshooting to verify the problem is the DCCV rather than the wiring between it and the DATC control unit.

-Rod

My 2006 has the same 2798 code. If I read the thread above, I see that this is the DCCV and that the DCCV is located on the left side of the radiator. Driver side is hot and pass is fine. Are there 2 valves - one drivers side and one passenger side? Should I just replace it (or both)? what does it cost and where do I get it... Ford?

There are two valves, but they are incorporated into a single assembly. When you buy a DCCV, you get the whole assembly. You can get them from the dealer or from some online parts sources. I use Fast Parts Network for mine and was pleased with the service.

-Rod

Thanks for the fast reply. I see the DCCV. Is there only one fastener holding it on and do I need to plug the coolant lines? It looks like a bear to get to. Will removing anything above or around it aid in the DCCV removel?

I did most of the replacement from underneath. Somewhere along the line someone posted steps to to replacement, try searching the forum and possibly one of the other forums (or Google). If you still can't find the detailed steps, send me a private message and I'll see if I can dig them up this weekend.

-Rod

This is the procedure that I found online:

This is for the Dual Coolant Control Valve
Removal V8
1. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.
2. Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-12 for details.
3. Remove the radiator upper sight shield.
4. Remove the passenger side upper radiator support bracket.
5. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from radiator.
6. Remove air conditioning receiver drier retainer and position aside.
7. Disconnect the auxiliary coolant flow pump electrical connector.
8. Remove the 2 (two) bolts from the auxiliary pump on radiator fan shroud.
9. Disconnect the heater hose at intake manifold and at the bottom of auxiliary pump.
10. Remove the auxiliary coolant flow pump.
11. Raise the vehicle.
12. Remove the lower splash shield.
13. Remove the bolts for the DCCV bracket.
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Remove the retainers for hydraulic cooling fan reservoir (passenger side of engine) and position aside.
16. Mark the heater hoses at the DCCV for identification and disconnect the 3 (three) quick disconnect fittings. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-00.
17. Disconnect the DCCV electrical connector.
18. Disconnect the heater hose at upper radiator hose.
19. Remove the DCCV.
20. Transfer the hoses and bracket from old DCCV to new DCCV.
Installation
1. Reverse the removal procedure to install new DCCV.
2. Torque the DCCV bracket bolts to 80 Lb-in (9 N.m).
3. Torque the upper hydraulic cooling fan reservoir fastener to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m) and lower/side fastener to 106 Lb-in (12 N.m).
4. Torque the auxiliary coolant pump fasteners to 80 Lb-in (9 N.m).
5. Torque the air conditioning receiver drier to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m).
6. Refill the engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.
7. Repeat Steps 1-3 of the diagnostic procedure to verity repair.

It seems like a lot of steps when I can put my hand on the DCCV from above. Also, does anyone know what the part number is and where I can get it. Lots of online search and nothing comes back as the DCCV

You might need to e-mail Torrie at Fast Parts Network (http://www.trademotion.com/storefront/index.cfm?action=contactus&siteid=318) with your request. He's good at quickly responding to inquiries. And no, I don't have any connection to them, I'm just a satisfied customer.

-Rod

Bought a new Bosh DCCV on EBAY for $99 and Free shipping.

BOSC XR822975 Heater Valve - ALL EUROPEAN Auto Supply,INC.
1-800-ALL-EURO

Two days shipping.

What was it called? I just checked ebay, there are returns on a few things but none on DCCV. I've read (above) that the part number is YG378, ebay shows a part number YG355? Fast Parts Network calls it a "Valve Assembly - HTR WTR". No return on ebay. Call me stupid, but I'm not confident about ordering something with no definitive description online. Ford doesn't even list a DCCV. SCREAMING OUT LOUD!

And, did you follow the steps listed above to remove/install the DCCV or did you use a simpler method?

The one I did was on a V6, so some of the steps were different. Plus, that was two years ago, so I don't recall exactly what it took. I remember it was pretty intuitive once I got started. The most frustrating part was figuring out how to unplug the connectors. I ended up Googling it and found that you press in the red tab to unlock the plug. For the rest of it, I jacked the car up, drained the coolant from the radiator, visually located the DCCV (may also be called heater control valve, Dual Coolant Control Valve, Dual Coolant Flow Valve, coolant valve) then started removing things to get it out. I didn't really follow any procedure.

Did you e-mail Torrie that you needed a DCCV and he came back with something called the "Valve assembly?" I'm pretty sure Torrie is familiar with the DCCV and gave you the right information. If you have an illustration from Fast Parts Network, that will confirm it's the right thing too. When I ordered the one for my wife's 2002 LS V6 it was called " VALVE ASY - A/C TEMP."

-Rod

It looks like access from above is tight but possible. I emailed Torrie and he replied with "Valve Assembly - HTR WTR". There are some cheaper sites (+/- $105+ shipping). Ford lists the same thing for Motorcraft Part #YG378. I cannot find a picture of the valve any where on the web. It just seems to me that Ford does not want you replacing this thing yourself and somehow makes it impossible to confirm. Years ago, the web contained photos and diagrams of everything, now it is hidden behind layers of nonsense. I know what mine looks like, why can't someone post a picture of the valve they're selling? Tomorrow, I'll run down to Ford and look at their offering and then order it on the web.
Where did you dispose of the coolant?

Coolant disposal varies by state and sometimes even county. Check with your local hazardous materials handlers. Sometimes stores that sell coolant also must accept used coolant. Some shops will be glad to accept your non-contaminated coolant for their recycling stations, and some areas will allow you to flush up to x gallons down the toilet.

-Rod

my 04 LS blows hot air on both sides (dual control) no matter what temp setting. Whats up with that?

did you run the datc tests and get any codes?

WOW, looks like this is a common problem. I too have a 2004 Lincoln LS blowing hot air both sides 100% of the time. I did notice if i turn on the climate control option for the seats, they blow cold air, while the dash system still blows hot. So i guess the computer knows it needs cold air in cabin but is just not blowing it. I did find that the 10A fuse for the climate control valve/clutch etc. was blown. I replaced it and still no difference. I suspect i now need to look into the bad sensor or stuck door problem talked about above. I will try the test mentioned about unplugging the door valve thing and see if it closes. If i understand correctly this would suggest the sensor is bad, if not, then the door valve maybe be bad/stuck. I will report back.

BTW, i do not have the message center thing needed to do the diagnostic tests mentioned so can't get codes from it. Was looking into getting a scanner but see they are $299 at Canadian tire for the one i expect i would need to see real time data from the cabin temp sensors etc.

Anyway, great thread. Thanks for all the help this has given me and who knows how many others.

The cooled seats are cooled by a system completely independent from the A/C system. Only the location of the seat buttons are linked to the rest of the climate control system.

Is the cabing air hot, like it's heated by the car, or just luke warm like there is no A/C cooling happening? Have you checked to see if the A/C compressor clutch is engaging?

The Message Center is not used for the self diagnostics of the DATC system. The self diagnostics will be displayed on the display for the DATC, so you should be able to access them.

Also, the $299 scan tool from any chain parts store will not be able to access the DATC system. This requires either a factory NGS/WGS diagnostic tool or a high end professional scan tool such as the OTC, Snap-On, Mac, or Cornwell.

-Rod

The cooled seats are cooled by a system completely independent from the A/C system. Only the location of the seat buttons are linked to the rest of the climate control system.

Is the cabing air hot, like it's heated by the car, or just luke warm like there is no A/C cooling happening? Have you checked to see if the A/C compressor clutch is engaging?

The Message Center is not used for the self diagnostics of the DATC system. The self diagnostics will be displayed on the display for the DATC, so you should be able to access them.

Also, the $299 scan tool from any chain parts store will not be able to access the DATC system. This requires either a factory NGS/WGS diagnostic tool or a high end professional scan tool such as the OTC, Snap-On, Mac, or Cornwell.

-Rod


Hi Rod. Yes, the hot air coming out is very hot, as heated by the heater. and yes, after replacing the fuse for the A/C pumps clutch it did start engaging when the A/C was turned on. The fan motor speed changes when i switch from auto to manual A\C. Faster speed on the manual A/C Mode but still hot air from all vents. I hope to look at this more tonight and see if i can figure out if it may be the DCCV or a sensor controling it. Bummer that the Code Scanner will not work. I just talked to a buddy that has one and was going to lead it to me this weekend to try.

Thanks for the fast reply and again for all the help you give here.

See if your buddy has a couple of hose pliers as well that can block coolant flow. Then block off the flow to the hoses to the cabin to see if that allows the air to start blowing cooling (once the heater cores cool down). If so, that would indicate the DCCV is flowing coolant when it shouldn't be. If you verify that the voltage to the DCCV is correct, but the valves are sticking open, that narrows down your search significantly.

-Rod

Have yet to get time to look at it but when i do, i will try that.

I did figure out how to access the codes though. In this car it seams i needed to press OFF and DEFROST, then AUTO. Anyway, the codes it shows are.

27 99
27 97
12 65

Since i took the good clutch fuse out so not to blow it again i assume one code will likely refer to it.

Ok, with a good fuse in place for the A/C clutch i get diff codes.

27 98
27 98
12 65

I found the DCCV. Tried to remove the plug but even after sliding the red lock open it still does not want to come off. Tried a few other plugs that look like this one, they all came off fine. Figures the one i want off seams stuck. lol. So i figured i would try clamping the hoses. Found 3 hoses coming off the DCCV on the right side of the car right beside the RAD. 2 are heater hoses that run into steel lines soon after coming out of the DCCV and run to the firewall. 1 heater hose running from the DCCV to a line t'ed off the water pump. I tried to clamp them and thought it made a diff, less heat, still no air but then noticed the A\C pump was not engaging anymore. After shutting the car off and removing the clamps I started it again, the A\C pump would engage. Odd. With A\C off i reclamped the lines and waited for the heat to get out of heater cores. When it seamed like there was less heat (but still rather warm) i turned on the A/C and the air coming out cooled down to more like outside air temp. Still not cold but the best i have seen yet. I will let the car cool down for a few hours and try this again to see if i can get air the feels atleast somewhat cool.

Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."

Code 27 97 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve open circuit."

Code 27 98 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve short to ground."

Code 27 99 is "Passenger Coolant Control Valve open circuit."

-Rod

Well i got it fixed. A few of the tips on here were wrong from my findings. I will talk about them below.

2004 Lincoln LS was blowing heat in all modes.

Self Test was done by pressing OFF and DEFROST, then AUTO.
(not OFF and FLOOR, then AUTO as suggested above and also in
the 9.9 version of ALLDATA REPAIR program)

It first displayed the following codes.
Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."
Code 27 97 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve open circuit."
Code 27 99 is "Passenger Coolant Control Valve open circuit."

After replacing the 10A fuse under the hood...
27-97 and 27-99 open circuit errors were fixed.

Another self test displayed errors...
Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."
Code 27 98 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve short to ground.

As suggested on here, I unplugged the DCCV and checked if A/C would work fine
without power to the valve. If did not make any difference.
(the thought was that the DCCV would close without power, and open with power.
I have found this not to be the case. After opening up my old DCCV i found its
rest position to be open.)

As also suggested on here, I clamped the heater hoses coming from and too
the DCCV or Heater control valve. The A/C then started to work fine.
Just be sure your engine is cold when you do this test or you will still feel
the hot air from the already hot heater cores.

I then unplugged the harness for the DCCV and tested for voltage. It showed over
14 volts. So the DCCV was getting power and should of been working but was not.

Finally, the dealership wanted $197 canadian for a new DCCV. Reports on here are
you can get one in the states online for $99. I found on at the auto wreckers for $25. After replacing my old one with this, my A/C worked fine.

Another self test showed only the
Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."

I am not 100% sure what the cold air bypass door does but i notice
no problems with my Climate Control System ATM. I assume this error
has been there for some time before the DCCV went bad and its just
something i never noticed.

I priced a new acuator for this door and found the dealership wants $47
canadian. Is this something i really need if i don't notice any problems
without it?

I want to thank everyone here for all the help and info in this thread, it really
got me looking in the right direction. I likey would of ended up paying the dealership
$500 or more to diagnos this and fix it had i not found this info.

Lastly, i suggest you all download ALLDATA REPAIR. It is what the dealerships are using and many other repair shops. You can check it out at
http://www.alldatadiy.com/

Click on http://www.alldatadiy.com/images/nav/demo_02.gif (http://www.alldatadiy.com/demo/index.html) to test it out.

https://www.alldatadiy.com/includes/img/content/ad_zone1.gif

If the cold air bypass door is not working properly, the climate control system won't be working to peak efficiency. Per the factory service manual, "The cold air bypass door actuator is located on the evaporator core housing. During automatic operation the control module can position the door fully open so that some of the airflow will not pass through the heater core. This will provide for maximum cooling. The door is closed or partially closed during modes other than maximum cooling."

Many of the actuators are very similar and may have slight housing differences. If you wanted to check it out, you could remove the cold air bypass actuator and plug it in to one of the other actuator connectors and check its operation. Or there's an entire troubleshooting section in the FSM for this code. You can probably access the same pinpoint test from Alldata.

-Rod

If the cold air bypass door is not working properly, the climate control system won't be working to peak efficiency. Per the factory service manual, "The cold air bypass door actuator is located on the evaporator core housing. During automatic operation the control module can position the door fully open so that some of the airflow will not pass through the heater core. This will provide for maximum cooling. The door is closed or partially closed during modes other than maximum cooling."

Many of the actuators are very similar and may have slight housing differences. If you wanted to check it out, you could remove the cold air bypass actuator and plug it in to one of the other actuator connectors and check its operation. Or there's an entire troubleshooting section in the FSM for this code. You can probably access the same pinpoint test from Alldata.

-Rod

This advice is invalid! I assume that you don't have an LS, and apparently don't have a factory manual. The LS has no cold-air bypass door. The error code is incorrect. The factory service manual says to ignore code 1265 because the LS is not equipped with a cold-air bypass door.

This advice is invalid! I assume that you don't have an LS, and apparently don't have a factory manual. The LS has no cold-air bypass door. The error code is incorrect. The factory service manual says to ignore code 1265 because the LS is not equipped with a cold-air bypass door.

Welcome to the forum!

You're only partially correct, I no longer own a 2004 Lincoln LS, but my wife still own's her 2002 LS of which I perform the maintenance. I do have the factory service manual for the 2002 model year and the Alldata subscription is still valid for my 2004. The 2002 LS does have a cold air bypass according to the factory service manual. Additionally, Alldata shows a cold air bypass door for the 2004 model year. Maybe you call it something different, such as "Mode door actuator."

Please review the Forum Guidelines (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/guidelines.html) that you agreed to when registering for your account before posting again. Specifically, pay attention to the very first paragraph titled "Respect is the key." Please continue to read on into the section titled "Don't attack each other." Once you decide that you can abide by the forum guidelines, feel free to return as a contributing member to the forums.

For the 2004 model year:
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Lincoln%20LS/th_2004LSColdAirBypass.jpg (http://s538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Lincoln%20LS/?action=view&current=2004LSColdAirBypass.jpg)
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Lincoln%20LS/th_2004LSDATC1265.jpg (http://s538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Lincoln%20LS/?action=view&current=2004LSDATC1265.jpg)

For the 2002 model year:
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Lincoln%20LS/th_2002LSColdAirBypass.jpg (http://s538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Lincoln%20LS/?action=view&current=2002LSColdAirBypass.jpg)
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Lincoln%20LS/th_2002LSDATC1265.jpg (http://s538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Lincoln%20LS/?action=view&current=2002LSDATC1265.jpg)

Feel free to review and post your references.

-Rod

I have a 2004 LS and a 2006 LS. I can assure you that neither has a cold-air bypass door. The 2004 gives the false error, and the 2006 does not. The 2004 factory manual even gives pin-point tests for the 1265 code. When you try them, you will see that the wires and pins for the cold-air bypass door are not even installed. Check with Ford on this. It was/is not ever used on the gen II LS.

PPPAnimal before you waste money on this false code, at least get under the dash and then you will see that there is no cold-air bypass door.

Now that's a much more mature response, with some detail to back it up. If you go to the early posts in this thread, you will find it was not started relative to the Gen II LS, so this helps keep it brought and relavant to both the Gen I and Gen II.

I took another look at the pinpoint tests for the 2004 and there is no mention of this being a false code. As you suggest, the pinpoint test does list pinouts and wiring colors for the cold air bypass actuator, but I cannot say if the terminals in the connector are populated. For now, we'll have to take your word for it. Thank you for the clarification.

So how does the Gen II LS blend the air between the evaporator core and the heater cores? Does it just rely on modulating the DCCV?

-Rod

So how does the Gen II LS blend the air between the evaporator core and the heater cores? Does it just rely on modulating the DCCV?

-Rod

Yes, it does.



Re: Dual climate control blowing heat on AC
I took another look at the pinpoint tests for the 2004 and there is no mention of this being a false code.
-Rod

The 2006 service manual mentions that it is a false code. The 2005 may as well, I don't know.

"B1265 1265 Cold Air Bypass Door Actuator Circuit Failure Invalid code. Vehicle not equipped with cold air bypass door actuator. Ignore this code and continue diagnostics."

Here is a link to the 2006 manual.
http://deneau.info/ls/

I strongly suspect that the gen I LS also didn't have a cold-air bypass door. I don't have a gen I LS to prove this by, but I have remotely assisted with troubleshooting on the gen I, and the failure symptoms for the DCCV just don't point to there being a bypass of the heater core. If there were, then you could still get cold air when the DCCV fails, and that doesn't seem to be the case. I think they planned for one, but couldn't fit it in. Of course, I could be wrong about the gen I, but I am certain about the gen II.

I've had the DATC out of my wife's 2002 a couple of times, I'll try to pull it and check the wiring harness. That is a good point about heat issues when the DCCV fails. I wonder why some DATC report a 1265 code and others do not. I've never had a cold air bypass code with my wifes, either via the self test or from my Genisys scan tool.

-Rod

Thanks guys, we appreciate the dialogue. I recently had my Suburban 2500 in the local repair shop for brake problem analysis. I mentioned the problem with my 2006 LS DCCV. Both the manager and mechanic told me that the problem is "usually" a blend door issue. After a long debate and my describing the DATC Codes, they stuck by their position (understanding that they were not looking at the car). I wanted to bring it in to them for repairs, but stuck by my belief in what the thread above says... DCCV problem. From the discussion, I believe my position is correct.

The LS doesn't have a blend-air door either. Most cars do, so those not familiar with the LS may make this mistake.

The 2002 LS does have wiring in connector 228b for the cold air bypass door. I pulled the DATC module and looked. It also appears to have an actuator in the location shown in the service manual as the cold air bypass actuator.

-Rod

The 2002 LS does have wiring in connector 228b for the cold air bypass door. I pulled the DATC module and looked. It also appears to have an actuator in the location shown in the service manual as the cold air bypass actuator.

-Rod

Wow, that's interesting. I wonder why they removed the feature from the gen II LS? I wonder if all gen I LS's have it? And lastly, if it could be added to a gen II and would that give any benefit?
My gen II's both give a very brief bast of hot (or very warm) air when they are restarted while the engine is still hot. Does your gen I do that?

I haven't noticed that in my wife's. It might do it and I've just figured it was hot cabin air being circulated. I don't really notice a difference in the way my wife's works and the way my 2004 worked. They both are much better than the system in my 2007 G35.

-Rod

I'm going to join back in on this thread because I still have not resolved my climate control issues. 2002 LS, V8

About 10% of the time the Climate control fails and blows air at approximately 110f, the rest of the time it works perfectly. It usually fails when the car is first used in the morning but on occasion it will fail later. It only fails when the car is started, and can usually be fixed by stopping, shutting off the engine and then restarting.

I have replaced the DCCV, DATC, and the passenger temp sensor. When I had a scanner on the unit, every reading remained the same when it failed except:

Defrost Servo position from 55 to 75
Panel Servo from 167 to 127
Driver temp sensor from 77 to 145
Passenger temp sensor from 82 to 168
"INTMP_2" (Interior temp?) from 78 to 69

Possible failure of the interior temp sensor is my only guess but 78 to 69 doesn't sound like the problem and changing the temp settings on the DATC has no effect.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

When i took my 2004 LS to the dealership asking about these error codes, they looked them up, showed me the pinpoint procedures listed in ALLDATA and then even proceeded to give me part numbers and prices for both the DCCV and the Cold Air Bypass Door Accuator.

I have not yet looked at my car to be sure it has a cold air bypass door, but find it funny that the dealership thinks it has one when infact it might not.

Guys, I have gotten a wealth of information here. I have an 05 LS, love the car, which shortly after warranty expiration has had a few issues (one thing at a time, LOL). I am currently trying to work on the AC issue. It took some time, but finally got codes from self diagnostics. What worked on my 05 LS was OFF/DEFROST simultaneously, then AUTO. I will say it did not catch the first time, so be patient and keep trying, it finally caught. OK, I got 27 98 and 12 65. I understand with 27 98, i will need a new DCCV, but I am getting confused with the 12 65. Is there a cold air bypass door actuator????? Is it also known as a blend door, which a ford mechanic once told me that LS's made after the 02 model do not have the blend door. I guess the change in name is confusing me. Help. :runaround: Does it exist or not, want to get it fixed paying as little as possible, but don't want mechanic trying to charge for something that doesn't exist.

Thanks.

Welcome to the forum!

What I'd suggest is that you start with the DCCV circuit. If you find the DCCV does not appear to be working probably, replace it, then see how the system performs. If all seems well, you probably can ignore the 12 65 code.

If you feel comfortable pulling the DATC from the dash, you could check for the cold air bypass wiring. I would consider "blend door" as synonomous to "cold air bypass."

-Rod

I have just purchased a (new) Heater Control Valve on Amazon.com for my 2005 LS for $100 :naughty:. That's a big difference from the $750 teh mechanic was "estimating" for repair. I will make an attempt to replace it and let you guys know how it went. Does anyone have instructions for replacing the DCCV on an 05 LS V6? :eek7:

Somewhere along the way this forum helped me find good instructions on how to replace it. I don't think you'll find much difference across the model years. I'd suggest you search the forum for 'DCCV' and you should find the information. If you try the search and don't find it, let us know and one of us will track them down.

-Rod

Thanks Rod.

I have found removel/installation instructions for DCCV for both V8 and V6, which differ slightly on allexperts.com :smokin:. They also include diagnostics instructions after installation. See below and hope this helps others. Our beautiful LS's seem to have this common issue all across the board. Thanks Lincoln :jerking:, you build a beautiful vehicle and tighten up your expenses on parts.

This is for the Dual Coolent Control Valve

Removal V8

1. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-12 for details.

3. Remove the radiator upper sight shield.

4. Remove the passenger side upper radiator support bracket.

5. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from radiator.

6. Remove air conditioning receiver drier retainer and position aside.

7. Disconnect the auxiliary coolant flow pump electrical connector.

8. Remove the 2 (two) bolts from the auxiliary pump on radiator fan shroud.

9. Disconnect the heater hose at intake manifold and at the bottom of auxiliary pump.

10. Remove the auxiliary coolant flow pump.

11. Raise the vehicle.

12. Remove the lower splash shield.

13. Remove the bolts for the DCCV bracket.

14. Lower the vehicle.

15. Remove the retainers for hydraulic cooling fan reservoir (passenger side of engine) and position aside.

16. Mark the heater hoses at the DCCV for identification and disconnect the 3 (three) quick disconnect fittings. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-00.

17. Disconnect the DCCV electrical connector.

18. Disconnect the heater hose at upper radiator hose.

19. Remove the DCCV.

20. Transfer the hoses and bracket from old DCCV to new DCCV.


Installation

1. Reverse the removal procedure to install new DCCV.

2. Torque the DCCV bracket bolts to 80 Lb-in (9 N.m).

3. Torque the upper hydraulic cooling fan reservoir fastener to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m) and lower/side fastener to 106 Lb-in (12 N.m).

4. Torque the auxiliary coolant pump fasteners to 80 Lb-in (9 N.m).

5. Torque the air conditioning receiver drier to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m).

6. Refill the engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.

7. Repeat Steps 1-3 of the diagnostic procedure to verity repair.


Removal V6

1. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.

2. Mark the heater hoses at the DCCV for identification and disconnect the 3 (three) quick disconnect fittings. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-00 for details.

3. Remove the retainers for hydraulic cooling fan reservoir (passenger side of engine) and position aside.

4. Remove the throttle body. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-04A details.

5 Remove the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-14 for details.

6. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from radiator and position aside.

7. Remove the air conditioning receiver drier retainer and position aside.

8. Disconnect the heater hoses from upper radiator hose T-fitting and water pump.

9. Disconnect the DCCV electrical connector.

10. Raise the vehicle.

11. Remove the lower splash shield.

12. Remove the bolts for DCCV at bracket.

13. Lower the vehicle.

14. Remove the DCCV valve with hoses and bracket attached.

15. Transfer the hoses and bracket from old DCCV to new DCCV.


Installation

1. Reverse the removal procedure to install new DCCV.

2. Torque the DCCV bracket bolts to 80 Lb-in (9 N.m).

3. Torque the upper hydraulic cooling fan reservoir fastener to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m) and lower/side fastener to 106 Lb-in (12 N.m).

4. Torque the air conditioning receiver drier to 53 Lb-in (6 N.m).

5. Install the throttle body using a new gasket, Part Number XW4Z-9E936-BA. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-04A for details.

6. Install the IAC using a new gasket, Part Number E83Z-9F670-A. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-14 for details.

7. Refill engine coolant. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03 for details.

8. Repeat Steps 1-3 of the diagnostic procedure to verify repair.

Diagnostic Procedure:


NOTE MAKE EVERY ATTEMPT TO VERIFY THE CONCERN. IF THE A/C COMPRESSOR IS NOT OPERATING UNDER ANY DATC COMMAND THIS ARTICLE WILL NOT ASSIST IN THE REPAIR. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR INFORMATION.

NOTE BEFORE PERFORMING THIS ARTICLE ALL APPLICABLE PIN POINT TESTS IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL, BASED ON SYMPTOM, MUST BE PERFORMED. IN ADDITION, BASIC DATC SYSTEM CHECKS SUCH AS REFRIGERANT CHARGE LEVEL AND DATC SYSTEM POWERS AND GROUNDS MUST BE VERIFIED AS ACCEPTABLE BEFORE CONTINUING.

1. Start engine and ensure it is at full operating temperature. Set DATC to 90°F (32°C), with blower on high and recirculation and panel modes selected. Allow vehicle to remain in this mode for 5 minutes minimum.

2. Set DATC to 60°F (15°C), with blower on high and recirculation and panel modes selected. Allow vehicle to remain in this mode for 5 minutes minimum.

3. Measure the output temperature at the registers. Depending on local current atmospheric conditions, the coldest reading may be approximately 45°F (7°C).

a. If sufficient temperature drop is achieved across all registers within +/- 10°F (6°C), the vehicle is operating normally. No additional service is required. Stop procedure at this point and return vehicle to customer.

b. If all or some measured outputs are greater than 45°F (7°C), or temperature difference between registers is greater than 10°F (6°C), continue with Step 4.


NOTE WITH THE DATC TEMPERATURE SET THE SAME IN BOTH ZONES, SOME LEVEL OF TEMPERATURE DIFFERENCE FROM DRIVER SIDE TO PASSENGER SIDE SHOULD BE CONSIDERED NORMAL A DIFFERENCE OF UP TO 10°F (6°C) MAY BE OBSERVED DEPENDING ON AMBIENT TEMPERATURE, HUMIDITY LEVEL AND IN-VEHICLE TEMPERATURE.

4. Open the hood and remove the cowl vent screen to gain access to the heater hoses at the heater core inlets/outlet. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 501-02 for details.

5. Clamp off the three (3) heater hoses going into and out of the heater core, as close to the heater core as possible. Refer to Figure 1.

6. If A/C performance is restored, remove the clamps from the heater hoses and proceed to Step 7. If A/C performance is not restored, the concern is not caused by the DCCV. Remove the clamps from the heater hoses, restore the vehicle to original condition and refer to the Workshop Manual, Section 412-00 for further diagnostics. Do not continue with this article.

CAUTION DO NOT SHORT THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT WIRING HARNESS C134 (LS) OR C1168 THUNDERBIRD) PINS 3 OR 6 TO PINS 1 OR 4. DAMAGE TO THE DATC MODULE MAY RESULT IF THIS OCCURS.


7. Shut off engine. Unplug C134/C1168 and check the resistance of the DCCV. Measure across pins 4-6, and pins 3-4. Refer to Figures 2 and 3.

a. If resistance is above or below 13-20 ohms, inspect C1034 at the DCCV for connection integrity, corrosion and damage. Repair as needed to restore. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

b. If resistance is above or below 13-20 ohms and C1034 is not at fault, replace the DCCV, Part Number XW4Z-18495-AA. Refer to "Replacing the DCCV" at the end of this article for details.

c. If resistance is acceptable, continue with Step 8.


8. With C134/C1168 disconnected, verify available voltage to the DCCV.

9. Start engine and set DATC to 60°F (15°C). Measure the voltage between the engine compartment harness (14290 side) C134/C1168 pin 4 and ground.

a. If voltage is less than 12 volts, check for open F101 or repair circuit 30-FB3 to restore voltage. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

b. If voltage is greater than 12 volts, proceed to Step 10. Refer to Figure 3.


10. With C134/C1168 disconnected, lift the lid on the Underhood FPDB (Front Power Distribution Box) and locate the power feed terminal at the drivers side, rear corner of the box. The lid must be lifted for the terminal bolt to be visible.

11. Verify DATC control assembly is providing a ground for the DCCV Solenoids. Start engine and set DATC to 60°F (15°C).

a. Measure voltage between the FPDB power feed and pin 3 of C134/C1168. If greater than 12 volts, proceed to Step lid.

b. If less than 12 volts, inspect circuit 91S-FB3 for high resistance or an open between C134/C1168 pin 3, and C228b (LS) or C228a (Thunderbird) pin 5, at the DATC control assembly. Repair wiring as required. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

c. If circuit 91S-FB3 is OK, install a new DATC control assembly, Part Number XW4Z-19980-CA (2000-2002 Lincoln LS), 1W6Z-19980-AA (2002 Thunderbird). Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-04 for details. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

d. Measure voltage between the FPDB power feed to pin 6 of C134/C1168. If greater than 12 volts, the DCCV may have a mechanical concern internally. Replace the DCCV, Part Number XW4Z-18495-AA. Refer to "Replacing the DCCV" at the end of this article for details.

e. If less than 12 volts, inspect circuit 91S-FB4 for high resistance or an open between C134/C1168 pin 6, and C228b (LS) or C228a (Thunderbird) pin 6, at the DATC control assembly. Repair wiring as required. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

f. If circuit 91S-FB4 is OK, install a new DATC control assembly, Part Number XW4Z-19980-CA (2000-2002 Lincoln LS), 1W6Z-19980-AA (2002 Thunderbird). Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-04 for details. Verify repair by repeating Steps 1-3, and return vehicle to customer.

OK, I actually changed my heater control valve and have AC, Woohoo. First time doing mechanical work, pretty simple, took me about an hour. Took a shortcut and clamped off the hoses. Hardest part was getting my big hand in there to take off the bolt. Anyway, it's done and its fixed. This also seemed to fix the problem of my Serv (P) light constantly coming on. I read somewhere that it was linked and so far it appears that way, it's been 24 hours.

Congratulations! And thank you for the detailed instructions and follow up post.

-Rod

LincolnLS05

What was the name of the DCCV part ordered from Amazon, was it - Motorcraft YG378 Heater Valve?

Hi RJ, yes, it was the YG378.That's the one for my 2005 V6 LS. Make sure you check which one goes with your model, because the YG355 has a totally different configuration. It was simple to do, but took time with my big hands. Instead of draining cooling system, which instructions call for, I took a shortcut and clamped the 3 hoses coming into the DCCV. Tight space, but take your time and it will be worth it. I'm slowly becoming a DIYer in many different aspects, if I can do it, so can you.

OK, did a little research which should hopefully help others out in this situation. Once you determine through your diagnostics or another form that your issue is the Heater Control Valve (DCCV). The Motorcraft Parts number are as follows. For 2000-2002 LS's, Part Number is YG355, for 2003-2006, the Part Number is YG378. These part numbers are for both V6 and V8, the 2006 only came in a V8.

Thanks, ordered one from Amazon as well. I like the hose clamp idea. Will perform the repair once received (next week?). I'll post my procedure used when complete. I have big hands and arms as well as a bad back (right now).

Rod -
How do you drain the coolant, is there a drain valve or plug. (2006 LS V8)

Please ignore that last post. The drain plug is on the bottom of the rad on the right (passenger) end.

Well, what a mess, apparently didn't drain enough coolant and now it's all over me, the car and floor.

Well, new DCCV in and all hoses reconnected. Tomorrow I have to replace the coolant (wring out my shirt and shoes will probably do the trick) and then give it a try. Any special procedures/instructions for "bleeding" the cooling system?

Any special procedures/instructions for "bleeding" the cooling system?

There are procedures and tips for bleeding the cooling system. There's another fairly extensive thread or two on the subject.

A search of the forum yielded the following, among others:
Click Me, Part 1 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=945301&highlight=bleed)
Click Me, Part 2

-Rod

A/C is working again! Good thing, since the temps will be well over 100 this week. Now time to go boating!

Procedurally, I did everything from the top side except drain the fluid. I'd find a better way to drain the fluid next time since it cost me time and grief. I'm with you Rod, that connection frustrated me the most. I actually figured it out by looking at the one on the throttle body.

I'm not sure if I have bled the system properly or not. I'll check again tomorrow when I have extra help.

I have to add a note on what happened to my '02 LS (60,000 miles) in the hopes that it will save someone hours of knuckle busting work.
My LS had the same symptoms as above, drivers side was blowing cold passenger side was blowing hot. Took the DCCV out and cleaned it, finding that it was operating normally I reinstalled it and went to the codes...there were none. Next I swapped the sensors in the plenum to see if that would make a difference...no change.
I gave up and took it to the dealer who diagnosed the problem as a bad compressor and wanted $1500 to fix it. I wasn't going to pay that so I started to leave. Just as I was pulling out a young man walked up and said that if it were his car he would try to put a little freon in it first.
It never occurred to me to check it but as soon as I got home I jacked the car up and threw a can of R-134 in it. Presto! Good as new! Just a slow leak in the front seal of the compressor.
I used to be that freon was the first thing you would check but with these new dual climate control systems, there are so many thing that can go wrong it never occurred to me that some freon had leaked out over the last 6 years. Total cost of repair $100.00, $93.00 for the diagnosis and $6.77 for a can of freon at Walmart. I guess I owe that kid a $20 for the advice.