Dumb Question Prior to 0171/0174 Fix

I will be doing this later this month, when I can take a day off. In the meantime, I am reading all of the GREAT info on this topc and have printed off the leckemby instructions. Here is my dumb question!

I have a Craftsman torque wrench, the type where you loosen a bolt at the bottom of the handle then turn the overlapping part of the handle to the setting you want (I assume). My question is, how does this work?? It did not come with any instructions. There are numbers (0,2,4,6,8) on the overlapping part of the handle, and torque values in inch/pounds on the 'underneath' part of the handle.

Any help would be appreciated.................... :uhoh:

Thx, Dan D

I think you're describing the "clicker", or "preset", type torque wrench. As a group, they do not go to the "zero" end of the scale. In other words, they have a working range of torques, but do not start off at the lowest torques.

A "beam" torque wrench also has a range ... but always let you go down to "zero" torque. I find the "beam" type wrenches more favorable. Sears sells 3/8" and 1/2" beams (often not on the shelf) ... they cost less than "clicker" types. 1/4" beams are available, but not at Sears. If you want a 1/4", you might seek out a vendor who sells K&D tools.

Note that the isolator bolts require *very* little torque - something like 7 to 11 foot-pounds. Even if your torque wrench goes that low, it probably isn't very accurate at that level. Take it slow and don't break any isolator bolts!

Torque values are often expressed in both inch-pounds and foot-pounds. Don't get the two confused!

12Oz - So how does the one I have work?

phil-l - So basically I should just tighten the bolts and not really worry about using the torque wrench?

Thx, Dan D

Hello

The "clicker" torque wrenches have adjustable torque settings. The setting is set by turning the handle and matching the amount of torque you want with a line. Then you tighten the bolt and listen for a click. When the wrench clicks the torque amount that was set is met.

Regards

Dan

As has been pointed out, the isolator bolts require little torque ... but I must disagree that it isn't necessary to measure the torque ... the bolts should be installed accurately.

IIRC, the torque value required is 10nm = 7.3 ftlbs = 184 inlbs (Remembered estimates)

I prefer beam type torque wrenches for accuracy. Here is some info:
http://www.kd-tools.com/29552957.htm. I have all three of these wrenches.

I doubt if the "clicker" torque wrench you have is going to be much good for this job.

I agree with 12Ounce - the 'clicker' torque wrench probably can't be accurately adjusted to 7 foot-pounds anyway.

He's also right that the torque should be measured. That said, my torque wrench's markings are only at 5 foot-pound increments, so I just did it by hand. Yes, I should get a low-range torque wrench...

Ok, thanks, guys. I will pick up a 3/8- or 1/2-inch beam type. I have sockets for both. I also need to retorque the head bolts on my MG, so this will come in handy. ;-)

Thx, Dan D

Aagh ...

You are reminding me of what caused me to buy my first torque wrench (many years ago). I had broken a cam by over-winding my Triumph TR4. I was reassembling the engine ... college student on a tight budget ... using only a socket set .... AND managed to break the block when I tightened the head bolts.

Then I discovered torque wrenches.

BTW, you will find the 3/8" drive most suited for this job "straight out of the box". The 1/4" can also be used, but you will need an "extender". An extender (you can make your own) increases the effective length (must be in a straight line) of the wrench. If you double the effective length of the wrench ... you must double the readings. For example; if while using such an extender, you read "5nm" ... you are actually applying "10nm".

I had a very unhappy situation with a brand new clicker torque wrench.....in the inch pounds (they come in inch pounds and ft pounds). I had put the teflon thread sealer paste onto the small bolts that hold the lower intake manifold to the heads. I never heard or felt any "click" and ended up breaking one bolt right off. I am sure that if I were a true mechanic, my hands would have felt the issue....but I am not. Right when that happened, I put the socket onto one of the valve cover bolts (same size) and the wrench clicked loudly at the same setting......I could hear and feel it.
I went back to one of the lower intake manifold bolts.....and it did NOT click.
I am guessing that the thread sealant caused the issue.......but will buy a beam type torque wrench for these low torque value applications. I thought that the clicker would be better, as it can be hard to see the reading on the beam wrench when you have it at some odd angles. But....from my experience.......it is worth the trouble to see the reading.
I have read that anti-seize compound or thread sealant paste can cause you to need to torque to a lower value due to the lubrication that the paste does on the threads. I read that it is 10ft pounds less for the 100ft pound lug nuts......but those are stated in a range.....so...as long as the end result is within that range (and it is) and the lug nuts are all at the SAME torque value, you are fine.

Now that I have confessed my botched job with a torque wrench.......
My craftsman torque wrenches (clicker type) have numbers printed BOTH on the black handle that turns, and on the crome part of the handle....that does NOT turn.
The numbers on the crome part have a line with them......and you turn the black part of the handle to move the edge of the handle up to the line that matches up with a number.....say.....25......for 25 foot pounds. The numbers on the black part of the handle.......are for fractional parts of the reading on the crome part. With the handle even with the line on the crome part that lines up with 25 inch pounds, and the small engraved line on the handle for "0" lined up with the center line of the lines on the crome part.....you have selected 25 inch pounds.

Remember to carefully read to determine torque specifications in INCH pounds, FOOT pounds, or Newton Meters (NM)....
A clicker torque wrench will be in EITHER Inch pounds OR Foot pounds.
They will also have the Newton Meter readings listed on the other side of the wrench (in many cases), so make sure to read the correct scale on the wrench.
Setting your wrench to the correct setting, and trying it out on a less critical bolt that is torqued to a higher value than what you are set for........and turning the wrench on that bolt....until it clicks (as the bolt is already tightened to a higher value....it should not turn).......will help you to calibrate your hands for the correct "feel" for the torque you have selected. Then, you might avoid my botch that I mentioned above.

When finished using a clicker type of torque wrench, turn the handle to the minimum setting, to take the tension off of the spring.......before you put it away. This will help to keep the wrench acurate. Also, take care to avoid dropping the torque wrench.

LOL, 12Oz, the Brit cars get us every time! I had to replace the head gasket on my '76 MGB (one of two I own) and when it came to torquing down the head nuts, I went out and bought this click one. I also didn't really hear it click. I'm still blowing a little white smoke so I am thinking that I don't have everything tightened up properly.

Dan D