3.8L 1999 Windstar Purchase Checklist

Hi folks, I'm picking up my latest used purchase, a black SEL with 85K miles and have scoured this site for tips on possible problem areas. Please add any known issues, those that are particular to this vehicle, not typical for any used one.

I gave the vehicle a once over as well as inspected by a mechanic, the only issues identified were leaky pcv tube (mentioned in previous post) and leaky transmission pan. I have since found the solution to the leaky tube (new valve cover) and I intend on tightening the pan bolts for now.

No codes on the computer, engine runs smooth and transmission shift fine. The tranny was replaced December 2004 by CarMax under their warranty, has about 15K on it now. Last November, fluid was changed at Jiffy Lube (unclear exactly what service was performed). What are the chances they used the proper fluid? If I find they did not change the filter, I am considering just doing this over again, is there a drain plug in the torque converter?

What should be the extent of cleanup in the intake area due to the oil suck up issue? I do not intend on popping the intake manifold until I have a problem there, how much can I do without removing it?

I see the de-carbonization procedure, should I go ahead and do this, even though at this time I believe there are no symptoms?

What is the AX4S "rear lube tube" issue mentioned in the TSB for this vehicle? "Loose engine mount bolts" are also noted, should I attempt to torque these down to their proper values?

It sounds like you've done your research. A few thoughts...

- Don't bother with a new valve cover - it's easy to modify the baffle in the original valve cover match the function of the redesigned cover. Take a look here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=589063

- There is no converter drain plug (at least there isn't in my 2000), so it isn't easy to change *all* of the fluid. However, it's a fairly straightforward DIY job to drop the transmission pan and replace the filter. Note that the transmission pan gasket is reusable. This would also be a good opportunity to verify that service was really done (in particular, after only 15K on the tranny, the magnet in the pan shouldn't have very much sticking to it).

- I'd be more concerned about why the transmission required replacement in the first place. I'll guess it wasn't properly serviced in the past. If it is a quality rebuild and has the right fluid in it, you should be in good shape with only 15K miles on it. Still, I'm a believer in frequent fluid changes with quality fluid of the *correct* type for Windstar trannies.

- In my experience, I wouldn't be overly worried about carbon deposits. I performed the isolator bolt TSB at about 75K miles, and spent a fair amount of time cleaning things up while I had it apart. My EGR ports had only very slight deposits. The secondary butterflies were dirty, but probably not enough to be causing any real problems.

- If it hasn't been done, I highly recommend the isolator bolt TSB; good reading here:

http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

While I didn't get the CEL codes, I had lots of pinging, etc. until I replaced the isolator bolts.

- I'm not familiar with the "rear lube tube" issue. Anyone else?

- Get the shop to confirm what they mean by "loose engine mount bolts"

Thanks for the tips. I saw the valve cover baffle modification, looks doable, the notch could be cut with a dremel, but I'm not comfortable with plugging the hole. Someone suggested using a nut with a plastic lock and I could also loctite it, just don't get a good feeling. It could cause havoc if it ever came loose. The valve cover is only about $60.

I plan on paying the Jiffy Lube a visit to see if they use the right fluid, but given the problems with this transmission (seems to be the weak spot, right?) I may just change the filter and do one of those DIY power flushes. Also add a drain plug to the pan. I am guessing there is no easy way to determine if the fluid is actually the correct type or some facsimile?

The original transmission on this vehicle went at 75K, about a year and a half ago. The current owner bought it from CarMax two years ago, who replaced it even though it was out of warranty. He said the bill came to $3,800, I am assuming a new transmission was installed (no rebuild). I will get the paperwork this friday when I pick it up.

I thumbed through some of his receipts, the IAC was replaced and this seems to be common also. An engine mount. A front end part or two, I will itemize and post back when I get them.

I am impressed by the overall condition of this vehicle, but I am comparing it to the vehicle it is replacing, a 1990 Plymouth Voyager w/ 90K miles. Its transmission recently disintegrated. I think the only original parts on that thing were the body, engine, and transmission, it has kept me busy the last few years...

If you don't mind the $60 price tag, go for it. I put in the new cover - but was disappointed to see how little had been changed.

I don't know of a way to verify the type of fluid already in a transmission. There may be specialty oil analysis folks who can do this kind of thing, but it isn't common.

Don't presume the transmission was replaced with a factory new unit. Rebuilt transmissions are very typical for this sort of thing.

Yeah, the IAC is a common item. Of course, I'm cheap: Mine got stuck, but I just cleaned it up. Still working fine.

There are at least a small number of '99 - '01(?)'s that were built with the power train harness too close to the ac tubing. When the harness bounces and eventually insulation rubs in-two ... there's no predicting what mysterious and ill effects may occur.

You'll have to take the cowling off to inspect this one.

A few other things I noted: the accelerator cable was beginning to fray and it looked like one of the sparkplug wires was rubbing against the IAC or thereabouts.

Thanks for the tips. I saw the valve cover baffle modification, looks doable, the notch could be cut with a dremel, but I'm not comfortable with plugging the hole. Someone suggested using a nut with a plastic lock and I could also loctite it, just don't get a good feeling. It could cause havoc if it ever came loose. The valve cover is only about $60.

...

I understand your concern about the nut loosening but what about using a cotter (Kotter?) pin on the blocking bolt and nut?

re use of the dremel - Ensure that there are no fillings sticking to the oily insides of the valve cover. You may be wiser to cut the notch.

The cotter pin is a good idea and I might give that a shot. I don't intend on replacing the isolator bolts unless I experience symptoms, though.

I like the cotter pin idea. You'd probably end up having to drill the hole in the bolt yourself (can be a pain with small hardware), but it drastically reduces the risk of hardware ending up someplace it shouldn't.