Suggestions for fuel pump

I am going to have to replace the fuel pump assembly on my 96 Jimmy. Does anyone have suggestions on what brand I should purchase. Here's what I've found so far:

Master @ $220.00 (Autozone & Advance Auto parts)
Bosch @ $272.00 (Autozone)
ACDelco @ $327.00 (GMParts Direct)
Carter @ $274.00 (Advance Auto parts)
NAPA @ $259.00 (NAPA)

I'd go with the Bosch or AC Delco.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=579612

I bought an OEM one last time. Time will tell if that was wise....I know the ones I got at Autozone just don't seem to last that long. BE REAL careful removing the metal lines on top of the sender! Me= twice I've had to replace it & the last time, I painted the lines & used anti-cease on the connections. First time I had to replace that thing it cost OVER $400 for the SENDER ALONE! (pump less than $100) If they are real tight, take the time to spray the crap out of the connections with a quality pentrating oil and work it s l o w l y till you get it free. It may take a l o n g time, but the $$$ savings is worth it! Twisted lines are very bad and replacing the whole line is even worse (GM dosn't even stock the lines for a '95 anymore - I had to have a shop make a new line for me).
Jon

I am going to have to replace the fuel pump assembly on my 96 Jimmy. Does anyone have suggestions on what brand I should purchase. Here's what I've found so far:

Master @ $220.00 (Autozone & Advance Auto parts)
Bosch @ $272.00 (Autozone)
ACDelco @ $327.00 (GMParts Direct)
Carter @ $274.00 (Advance Auto parts)
NAPA @ $259.00 (NAPA)


Choice with care. Look for oem quality and specs and not the cheapest.
Remember that a lop of parts places by the brand and have a bunch of parts made up to there own specs. You can not depend on the brand.
Napa fuel pumps have went way down hill on quality.
Carquest handles airtex 214-234$ depending on aplication.
Dealer OEM only parts hurt one time. The cheaper aftermarket stuff can bite you in the rear many times.
If the AC-delco is only 50 $ more I would go for it.
Good Luck
MT

Thanks everyone:
The AC-Delco fuel pump/strainer assembly is on order. I found it at Rockauto.com for 222.79 plus shipping. Any suggestions/tips on the installation process would be greatly appreciated. The last one was installed 4-5 years ago by a auto repair shop so at least it won't be the first time in 10 years that everything was removed/replaced.

Have you put a fuel pressure guage on the test port to see if the pump is working? You may want to try that first before going through this job. If so & the pressure isn't there:

First thing, get a case of beer :) This IS NOT a fun job. (* = drink a beer)
I'd soak all the hardware down with a good penetrating oil first (several times if it looks really bad). Jack the rear end of the truck up & put jack stands under rear axle * Disconnect the battery. * You have to support the tank with a floor jack (put a piece of wood between the lift & the jack), remove both tank straps * (last time I did this BOTH straps broke & I had to replace them :( ) ***, then you have to loosen the 2 lines going to the filler tube at the tank itself, lower the tank enough to get to the lines going to the pump/sender. These have ALWAYS given me a headache). Soak the hell outta the fitting with penetrating oil and work on them SLOWLY being careful not to twist & kink the lines *(if you twist or pinch the lines on the sender, you are looking at buying a new sender!), Mine were ALWAYS frozen up! Disconnect the wire harness to the pump assy. Drop the tank completely out of the truck and pull it out (hopefully you don't have a FULL tank like the last time I had to do this). Once you can get to the top of the tank, you can use a large screwdriver & tap the retaining ring with a small hammer to turn the ring that hold the assy. in the tank. * Remove the sender/pump and inspect it. My first one had 2 wires melted together (!) Install the new pump & strainer in the sender per the instructions provided. Hopefully you will also be provided with a new pulsator (rubber line installed above the pump), if so, replace that too while you have it all out. *. This time around (another new sending unit!) I wised up a bit an primered all of the lines on the outside of the sending unit and applied anti-seize on the threads) Now do everything above in reverse to re-install. While you are at it, put a new filter on for good measure. I did this job in my gravel driveway. You don't have a whole lot of room to work with, the hardest thing I had happen last time was getting the frigging filler tube lines back on the tank...but that's just me. If all goes well, you can get the job done in a few hours and save yourself a lot of money!

I had to learn this the hard way, not knowing about this forum, so you are ahead of me outta the gate. BTW, the beer thing is kinda tongue in cheek...but I'd keep some handy just in case!

The guys here can add if I left anything out. This community has been VERY helpful to me!

Good luck!
Jon

If you are dropping the tank all the way be careful to take it down slowly. Then make sure you disconnect the evap hose at the front of the tank. It's not in any manual that I have seen. The fatory manual only shows the piece, but it isn't labled. I broke mine like many people have done. If you do break it, it's not a hard fix. I drilled mine out and put in a brass fitting then used some JB weld to set it in. The new part I've heard is only 25 bucks from GMC, but I could be wrong there.

There ya go - I forgot about that! :)

I finished the job over the 4th of July weekend. I would have been done in 1 full day but as predicted I broke off the evap fitting and had to wait for the Brass fitting/JB-Weld to set up. I couldn't see the evap hose because of the front plastic shield and broke it off as I was trying to lower it down enough to see it. The 96 has a plastic strainer assembly and rubber/plastic connectors so I didn't have the corroded connection nightmare like the 95s(I saw some pictures of the 95 tank connectors on the Blazer forum). After this procedure this fixed my marginal fuel pressure problem but my flashing P0300 code was still coming up. I went back to basics and looked closer at the ignition system. I just happened to be looking at the underside of my 1 year-old Auto-Zone distributor cap in the right light and noticed a small burn/hole next to the Cylinder 1 contact. This hole was between the Cylinder 1 contact and the run for the Cylinder 2 wire to contact. I suspected that there was a crossover between the Cylinder 1 and 2. I also noticed that the Cylinder 1 plug (new) was carbon fouled. I replaced the Cap, Rotor and wires as well as new Ac/Delco Platinum plugs. Now the jimmy runs great with plenty of power and no flashing P0300 code. Here's what I had to replace.
1. CSFI to MSI conversion kit - Fixed the multiple leaks in the plenum causing a fuel smell coming from the engine compartment.
2. Fuel Pump/Filter - Increased the pressure up to specs so hopefully I don't have the hard starting issue anymore.

3. Replaced distributor cap (rotor, wires and replaced Bosch with AC/Delco Platimun for good measure). Fixed the rough idle, and improper firing of spark plugs.
This was a tough multi-symptom set of problems that I wouldn't have been able to track down without the help of people on this forum.
Thanks everyone.

I finished the job over the 4th of July weekend. I would have been done in 1 full day but as predicted I broke off the evap fitting and had to wait for the Brass fitting/JB-Weld to set up. I couldn't see the evap hose because of the front plastic shield and broke it off as I was trying to lower it down enough to see it. The 96 has a plastic strainer assembly and rubber/plastic connectors so I didn't have the corroded connection nightmare like the 95s(I saw some pictures of the 95 tank connectors on the Blazer forum). After this procedure this fixed my marginal fuel pressure problem but my flashing P0300 code was still coming up. I went back to basics and looked closer at the ignition system. I just happened to be looking at the underside of my 1 year-old Auto-Zone distributor cap in the right light and noticed a small burn/hole next to the Cylinder 1 contact. This hole was between the Cylinder 1 contact and the run for the Cylinder 2 wire to contact. I suspected that there was a crossover between the Cylinder 1 and 2. I also noticed that the Cylinder 1 plug (new) was carbon fouled. I replaced the Cap, Rotor and wires as well as new Ac/Delco Platinum plugs. Now the jimmy runs great with plenty of power and no flashing P0300 code. Here's what I had to replace.
1. CSFI to MSI conversion kit - Fixed the multiple leaks in the plenum causing a fuel smell coming from the engine compartment.
2. Fuel Pump/Filter - Increased the pressure up to specs so hopefully I don't have the hard starting issue anymore.

3. Replaced distributor cap (rotor, wires and replaced Bosch with AC/Delco Platimun for good measure). Fixed the rough idle, and improper firing of spark plugs.
This was a tough multi-symptom set of problems that I wouldn't have been able to track down without the help of people on this forum.
Thanks everyone.



You are welcome and.
Thanks for posting back and letting us all know how it went.
Glad you got it going good. And yes we learn by doing.
Good Luck MT

i bought a master 1 year ago and already had to replace it again with a bosch.