No throttle response

Just after replacing the alternator and battery last week (thanks everyone for your suggestions), my son was driving along the highway at around 65 with the cruise control enabled. Check engine light came on, and at about the same time the thottle no longer responded to the gas pedal, but car continued running at around the same rpm. He was able to safely exit, pull car to the side of the road, and try restarting it. But didn't help, same symptom.

Called AAA, who brought it to a local gas station. By the time it got to the gas station, the mechanic tried it, and said it was working fine then. Took it home, ran the scanner the next day which only reported a fault code for 'misfire on cylinder 2'. Car has been running fine since, including a couple hundred miles over the weekend. But since nothing was done to 'fix' it, I'm still quite concerned.

97 Windstar, 3.8, 97K miles.

thanks
Suggestions?

I'd start by checking the throttle linkage and the mechanical cable from the cruise control.

No throttle control is scary; I'd also stop using the cruise control (except for testing in a safe area) until this problem is resolved.

The misfire code could be as simple as ignition wires or spark plugs. Are either of these items due to be replaced?

I'd start by checking the throttle linkage and the mechanical cable from the cruise control.

No throttle control is scary; I'd also stop using the cruise control (except for testing in a safe area) until this problem is resolved.

The misfire code could be as simple as ignition wires or spark plugs. Are either of these items due to be replaced?

I previously replaced the 'easy' spark plugs in the front, then recently discovered (on this forum) how to get to the ones in back. Hope to do those and the wires this weekend.

I've used the cruise control since, and worked ok. Superficially, looking from top of engine, both cables look intact and engaged. What could cause the cruise control to 'stick' on? Debris, like a small branch?

Any particular suggestions for plug wires? AutoZone has the closest stores, and lists a Duralast for about $30 and Bosch for around $53. Or stick with Motorcraft?

thanks

I've also heard of kinked cables causing cruise control to stick. Do any of the cables look like they've been bent or hit by something?

I wouldn't skimp on wires. I don't know Duralast; I've heard good things about Bosch. AutoZone may be able to order Motorcraft wires, even if not in stock.

You should be fine with the Bosch wires.....get some "dielectric grease" to put on the ceramic part of the plug......to seal moisture out of the boot / plug area.

However, I would stay away from the Bosch plugs....however good they may look in the auto part store displays....they don't seem to be the best for the Windstar....and they cost more.

I second the warning on Bosch spark plugs - and non-OEM electrode configurations in general (i.e., split-fire, etc.). I've used Bosch plugs in several cars - and haven't been impressed. A quality double-platinum plug in the proper factory-spec heat range (Autolite or Motorcraft for Fords) is your best bet.

Changing spark plugs and wires --
I removed the windshield wiper arms, then the plastic cowl. However, there is a metal cross piece under the plastic cowl, and it looks like a number of things are bolted to it on the bottom side. Didn't want to proceed without some specific advise. Is this really the best way to get to the rear plugs and the wires? Exactly what has to be removed?

thanks,

Steve

Hi Steve
I have had the cowl off of my '96 a few times. As I recall, the only thing other than the fasteners (two large nuts at either end, and several screws for vent ducting) you must disconnect is the elecrical for the windshield wipers on the drivers end. Also you will need to keep an eye on the hoses/plastic tubes for the windshield washer fluid and remove them, or detach them. Then, the whole "metal piece" can be lifted out. The wiper motor and associated parts remains attached. It really is no big deal. Just work slowly. Also, as I recall the piece tends to become "seated" a bit, so once the fasteners are out, you may have to give it a bit of a heave to pull it loose.
If you are working on plugs/wires or anything else on the firewall side, I would pull it. It makes life much easier and is not terribly difficult to do. The weakest link in the process are the plastic anchors that the screws for the trim piece attach to along the base of the windshield. Make sure you have those lined up before forcing a screw down in there. I have splilt at least one of mine rendering it useless.

Best of luck