No cat

CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSORS

The CKP sensor B is a variable reluctance sensor. The magnetic field of the sensor is altered by a crankshaft mounted reluctor wheel that has seven machined slots, six of which are equally spaced 60 degrees apart. The seventh slot is spaced 10 degrees after one of the 60 degree slots. This sensor provides the Ignition Control Module (ICM) with 7X signals, or seven pulses for each revolution of the crankshaft. The pulse from the 10 degree slot is known as the sync pulse. Both of the sensor circuits are connected to the ignition control module (ICM). A signal converter within the ICM produces digital 3X output pulse to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) , the 3X reference is known as the low resolution engine speed signal.

The CKP sensor A contains a hall-effect switch. A hall-effect switch is a solid state switching device that produces a digital ON/OFF pulse when a rotating element passes between the sensor tip and a magnet. This rotating element is called an interrupter ring or blade. In this case the interrupter ring has 24 evenly spaced blades and windows and is part of the crankshaft damper assembly. This sensor provides the PCM with 24X signals, or 24 identical pulses per crankshaft revolution. The 24X signal is used for enhanced smoothness and idle stability at a lower calibrated RPM. The PCM supplies the sensor with a 12-volt reference, low reference, and signal circuit.

The ICM is the component below the coils where the wiring harness inputs. It can be removed and tested at AZ but their testing may not be 100%. On 3.4L ICM failures, the failures noted caused the timing to advance too much causing timing problems, misfire and loss of power.

With resonator removed it will be a little louder. You may get some popping sound when decelerating, etc. Also, the droning sound is annoying on a long trip. If you have a ubend it is a good idea to do a delete.

I think I mentioned that 'ysteve' should check his ICM much earlier in this thread (but I don't know how to check it)... My stepson used to be a certified mechanic at a local Chevy dealer and from time to time he saw a bad ICM cause misfire problems... I think you can get one at RockAuto for about $160... Easy to replace, it's the flat module under the coil paks... Buy the multipin connector gasket also if you are going to change it...

Thank you good info. I will respond satturday.

Hi guys iam so pissied right now. Today i change my ICM and Knock sensor. My local strauus auto had icm for 129$. I dont know what to think. Please help me. Other wise i gonna burn this F&^cking car. The symptoms i very poor acceleration, major loss of power, hard shifting. Do you ever heard that 3.4 cars had exhaust(single) cloged in 89000 (i mean resonator and mufler)? Thanks.

You know i change already a lot of stuff, and i know that we close to win.
Look at this. This stuff wasnt changed yet. Do you think any of this can cause it or its gonna triger the light.
1)Crankshaft pos. sensor (two of them)
2)Camshaft pos. sensor
3)Coils(resistance is good)

I think the next step should be the coils. They should come in three 2-packs, so change all of them or none if you are going to do it.
Ogre

I understant what you saying, but resistanse is good. What else canbe wrong with it. And if then where i can get it for cheap?

10472401$63.80
So 3 of them gonna be around 200$. But what if i gonna spend for nothing?

"ysteve" I don't know what to suggest to you anymore... And I'm not nearly as expert on these cars as "bnaylor" is... Do you have a code reader?... Or have you had the DTC codes read from your car?... I don't remember if you said this or not... I'm looking to buy myself a code reader... Seems like a good investment...

I understant what you saying, but resistanse is good. What else canbe wrong with it. And if then where i can get it for cheap?

Of the parts that you listed, these would be the first things to check.

I understand that the resistance is good, but when these parts get warm, the resistance can change quite a bit if there is a problem. If these is an arcing problem due to a breakdown of the coils, it could get more pronounced at warmer temperatures, as you have stated it does.

Right now, on ebay, item number 180006378762 is only $10.00 each.

Ogre

You probably kiding if its 10$. But anyway, lets see and if iam not gonna find it on ebay then iam gonna buy for regular price. Anyway i can tell you only on satturday. So see you then. I post before that on cold engine i can race with BMW, maybe you right about hot and cold resistance. I dont have a choice i have to find this problem, cause i alredy put half of new car, so i cant just leave that. So will respond end of the week.
Thank you guys, good info.

Steve,
Let us know how it all went.

Hi guys. I am "happy" to say it didnt work. Ogre73 like you tolld me i got those from ebay it was 42$ (all 3 with shipping). I mentiond before that ICM was changed as well from straussauto (121$ WELLS). Also yesterday i removed rear oxygen sensor to check if i have exhaust restriction and it doesnt change anything so i put it back(ijust drive couple of blocks only for test). Like you guys sayd before engine need only gas fire and air in and out,. So i have brand new ICM, coils, wires and plugs(Acdelco, gap0,6) this for the fire. I cut my cat and put sreight pipe this for exhaust. I changed my MAF sensor,IAC, air filter and bunch of other sensors this for air intake. Fuel showing 56-57psi, since i bought it,using allways i repeat allways 93 octane gas, thats mean there is no way my injectors can be cloged. So tell me did i miss something or maybe i am not smart enough to fix this crap.
I dont know what else to think. Thank you

Look at this guys, this answers 8-9 month old and i paid for each of them 5-10$ this was guys from JUSANSWER.

1.Have you had the car scanned for codes? It may have some even though the light is not on. Is it possible that the transmission is stuck in a higher gear such as third that could feel like a power loss?


2.DEFINITION: One of the two following conditions occurs during a second to third gear steady throttle upshift, or a third to second gear coast, or a light to moderate throttle detent downshift:
Harsh shift feel -- an unacceptable quick gear change occurs.
Soft shift feel -- an unacceptable long gear change occurs. Automatic Transmission Fluid Level, soft shift only
Low fluid level
Transmission Main Line Pressure
Low or high transmission main line pressure
Oil Filter Assembly, soft shift only

The oil filter assembly (100) is missing, plugged, or damaged.
The oil filter seal assembly (101) is missing or damaged. 2-3 Accumulator Assembly

Misassembled upside down 2-3 accumulator assembly
Damaged or missing 2-3 accumulator piston oil seal ring (137B)
A damaged or missing 2-3 accumulator piston cushion spring (143) or outer spring (138)
A stuck or binding 2-3 accumulator piston (136B)
Debris in the passages of the accumulator cover spacer plate (134) Control Valve Body Assemb

Debris in the passages of the control valve body (301) or control valve body spacer plate assembly and gasket assembly (396)
Missing or mislocated #4 or #9 ball check valves (372)
Misassembled 2-3 accumulator valve (340-345) line-up
Stuck or binding 2-3 accumulator valve (344)
Missing, damaged, or misassembled 2-3 accumulator valve bushing (345), bore plug (343), or retainers (342, 385 Driven Sprocket Support Assembly, soft shift only
A plugged third clutch oil passage in the driven sprocket support assembly (609) Third Clutch Assembly

The input clutch housing oil seal rings (628) are missing or are damaged.
The third clutch ball check valve assembly (724) is missing or is damaged.
The third clutch piston (642) is damaged.
The third clutch piston inner seal (641) is missing or damage.
The third clutch plates (645-648) are worn or misa
3. The pressure control solenoid doesn't always set a code when it acts up.Just fyi.If it still doesn't feel right feel free to come back and ask for help.You could also have a clogged fuel filter that would cause no power and poor shifting.Good luck I hope all is fine.


4. Have you checked your plug wires and coils for corrosion or black soot?


5. I did a little research on this and it may be poor maching of the second clutch drum.


6.DTC P0420 does indicate a bad catalytic converter. It would not be surprising to see an aftermarket universal catalytic converter not working well enough or have the capacity to turn the light off.


7.what you can do is take this to a shop that has a diagnostic computer. with this they can watch the o2 sensors to see if they are fluctuating as they should. the code you are getting is that the catalytic converter is Below Threshold.

this means that the catalytic converter is damaged inside like one of the fins is ether bent from the high heat or one or more fins has broken off. if this is the case this will not slow the exhaust to remove the unburnt gases that is the job of the catalytic converter.
aftermarket parts are cheaper and thus not up to OEM standards. you get what you pay for with aftermarket parts



And a lot of more . I just dont wanna tread to be big.

And this my researches, but i dont have whole TSB only headline, maybe somebody know rest of it.

A/T - 4T65E Erratic/Poor Shifting/Low Power/DTC's Set
This TSB number 02-07-30-013D, dated 03/31/05 has been superceded by TSB number 02-07-30-013E , dated 05/20/05

Its have low power and poor shifting like mine but i dont have info on that.

......... since i bought it,using allways i repeat allways 93 octane gas, thats mean there is no way my injectors can be cloged. So tell me did i miss something or maybe i am not smart enough to fix this crap.
I dont know what else to think. Thank you

These engines are designed to run on 87 octane (regular) gas... You should not need 93 octane... In fact, I wonder if the high octane gas is causing more harm than good??... Just a thought...

Steve,
At this point, I don't know what else to tell you. You have already spent way more on this than I would have before taking it to a dealer.
I have a code reader that has the ability to take a "snapshot". What that means is that it records the data from before a code is set, so you can see what may have led to the code being set. If you had a code, something like that may help you, but if you have no code, I am not sure where to go from here.
Sorry, and best of luck.
Ogre

Thank you guys. I guess i just cant fix that. Give me couple of weeks and iam gonna bring it to dealer or something else. I just cant spend anymore money. Again thank you for everithing. I will respond in the future.

It certainly would be interesting and possibly very helpful to others if you post the results of your (or your dealer's) findings.
Ogre

Hi guys. I still having that stupid problem Hard shifting and major loss of power. I was not responding maybe month by that time i did change oxygen sensor 1st and fuel pressure regulator and put that simulator to get rid of P0420. Irelly dont know what else it could be. I was one time at the dealer and theytolld me "our computers cant find anything wrong". Btw couple of times i had P0440. I order gas cap yesterday. And i would like to buy EGR and all vacuum lines. Any info thankfull. I want cheaper is posible cause tired of spending money. Maybe you can tell me something else to try. I have 1000% cat symptoms but i dont have a Cat. If last couple of thing not gonna help me then i just have to think that some internal problems with tranny or engine.
Thank you guys any info apreciated.

One more thing guys. I noticed when my car almost empty(fuel) it runs better, maybe something involved there with fuel.
And another thing on my EGR, lable is black, that is mean it open a lot of time, thats why sticker is burnt. What is work of EGR. Cause i think it shoud be closed at all the time. Because to burn the any fuel you need air right, but egr works with i think carbon monoxide, wich is mean fuel is not gonna burn with it. For example fill the bottle with gasoline and lite it with liter. Bottle not gonna burn only top of the bottle where air. Maybe i am wrong. Somebody here can explaint to me what EGR doing and what can cause it to be open most of the times.

Besides my problem i wanna find wheel cover cause i dont have rims, where i can find it for cheap.

And another thing i have laptop installed on my impala, where i can find wire on one side USB and on another data link connector and software for that, to do some play around with PCM.

Do somebody have info on "Fuel Tank Vent Valve" and "fuel tank pressure sensor". Any help is apreciated.

I've been reading this one a while and man, what a problem. I suggest going back and rechecking those vacuum lines. I too have spent money changing out parts on a car with similar symptoms and it was all caused by a dryrotted vacuum line. Take that can of carb cleaner you got earlier, crank the car, then just spray a nice mist around the engine and the vacuum lines. IF there is a leak, the engine will rev just a slight amount when the carb cleaner gets sucked in. It's cheap and worth a shot anyway. Good luck and keep everybody posted on progress.

I chekd that a lot of times. There is line going from PCV then it tees off to intake and going into purge solenoid. And other one small going from pressure regulator to MAP sensor. I never find anything wrong in that areas. Maybe i am missing something. Maybe there is more spots. BTW forgot about i think thats the cruise contol near generator.And it looks like fine to me too. Please help if somebody know any ideas.