DIY 2000 Valve Cover TSB Modification

I read one thread that visually, it appears that the only difference is the hole in the baffle - the redesign eliminates the hole.

The issue mentioned in that thread is "was there anything done inside the baffle?"

Has anyone compared the insides of the baffles?

Thanks in advance,
Tom

Just as an FYI, my experience with it is I had to silicone around the outer edges of the baffle because oil was being sucked between the baffle and the valve cover. I also had to install a small piece of air filter material (foam) to keep oil consumption down to a minimum. It works pretty darn good now, though. To answer your question, I don't think there is any difference on the inside of the new one except for the holes.

Sounds straightforward.

I was thinking just apply race car logic and deal with the oil!

I think I will fix my VC and I'm also thinking of potentially reworking the failed iso bolts. For starters I can machine off some of the "shoulder" so they have more clamping force. Then there is the replacement of the failed rubber. Orings and sheet silicone rubber are at my disposal.

I would think that since the failure is an intermittent vacuum leak, the bolts are almost doing their job. In that case, machining maybe .050" off the shoulder (max) would definitely give them more clamping.

Sounds straightforward.

I was thinking just apply race car logic and deal with the oil!

I think I will fix my VC and I'm also thinking of potentially reworking the failed iso bolts. For starters I can machine off some of the "shoulder" so they have more clamping force. Then there is the replacement of the failed rubber. Orings and sheet silicone rubber are at my disposal.

I would think that since the failure is an intermittent vacuum leak, the bolts are almost doing their job. In that case, machining maybe .050" off the shoulder (max) would definitely give them more clamping.
Do you think the rubber seals (port seals) actually failed? I was thinking that if I ever did the bolt replacement again I would not even remove or lift up the lower plenum and simply instal new bolts. In other words I did not think the port seals really needed replacing but since I was there and I had the parts................

Machining the shoulders of the bolts seems like too much effort. Besides putting more force on the plenum might crack it.

However in the interest of science do let us know how it works if you go through with it.

MrCreosote -

I've discussed this in the past. There is one difference between the covers other than the hole - but it's easy to deal with.

My original post:

I performed the isolator bolt/port seal procedure http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html on my 2000 Windstar LX 3.8 a few months ago. I bought the parts from my local dealer, based on the part numbers included in the procedure (i.e., it wasn't a kit, just a collection of parts).

However, if I had to do it over again, I would not buy the valve cover.

First, take a look at the comparison of the two valve covers here: http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/pcv_filter.htm. Yes, these are pictures of the Mustang version of the 3.8, but they look exactly the same as the Windstar.

This means budget-sensitive Windstar owners should be able to modify their original valve cover to match the revised cover. You'd probably only need some tin snips (there is one corner of the interior baffle that has a new notch), a pair of pliers (one corner is bent slightly differently) and some reliable way to plug the hole (I'd suggest an appropriate size bolt, with a nylock-style locking nut).

I highly recommend performing the isolator bolt/port seal procedure. If you spend some time reading and paying attention to details, it isn't a terribly difficult DIY job. All of the symptoms I had seen before (pinging, etc.) are now gone; van runs great.

I'm sure I would be safe shaving a little off the iso bolt shoulders because the fact that there is now leaking indicates that the clamping force has been lost due to rubber deterioration.

NOTE: the nature of the rubber deterioration would be important. If the rubber simply got softer, this might work nicely. If the rubber is cracking and creep rupturing, then the rubber will disintegrate faster with this method.

So a little more squish should bring the clamping force back up.

I would think the seals on the bottom of the lower plastic manifold should be ok IF they didn't get soaked in oil. Now it looks like oil can pool around the iso bolt heads, right? If it pools on the bolts, I would think the bottom seals would be OK.

They probably did all this nonsense for 1 db of engine noise reduction.

Tom

PS. I'm really in a quandry on where to buy parts now. Yes there is Ford and that is the best you can do. But it is sad that aftermarket gaskets are now potentially inferior. Dorman hoses in the kit are said to crack but the gaskets/bolts may be fine. Even Fel-Pro gets everything from China. I thought Fel-Pro was a fine product. My friend who has a taxi cab business says he has problems with ALL the aftermarket parts. In many cases he buys parts from the dealers.

Sad, Sad, Sad...

I wonder if the dealer will just sell the baffle? Probably not.

There would be no way the dealer would sell the baffle. It is probably riveted or spot welded to the valve cover.

However, a used valve cover from the appropriate model might be an option. However, junk yards are reluctant to break down an engine.

Someone summarized the various different years that need the valve cover, the pressure regulator line, and maybe one other item. Like in the Dorman kit, it has ALL the mods. What is interesting is that NO year requires ALL of them.

It is 1999 and 2000 that needs the valve cover, right?

The baffle on my valve cover is screwed in. That's why I was wondering about this. I'm going to do some research and see if it is a part that can be purchased separately.

Cool, screwed in!

This is the new cover, right? It would be interesting to unscrew it and see what might be inside. Digital pics would be worth 1000 words.

________________________

I was thinking more about reusing the iso bolts. Another method might be to "build up" the bolt with oil resistant silicone rubber. I see 2 methods:

1) brush on layers for a buildup of .050 approx.

2) spray release agent down in the hole. Apply the rubber to the iso bolt. Screw it in to a predetermined amount where the original rubber is .050" from contacting the manifold. Let the silicone rubber cure - there should now be a perfectly forme .050 buildup on the bolt how. Then tighten the bolt.

I read "silicone".....do NOT use silicone in there.....it bleeds off gasses that are bad for the oxygen sensors even in very small amounts. Use ONLY silicone free and "sensor safe" sealants.
I would buy the improved bolts / isolators from FORD...and be done with it.
You can inspect the vaccum lines, if the line is snug on the fuel pressure regulator and looks good, then you can leave it. It is easier to replace the vaccum lines later, but opening up the intake manifold.....best to do it right and not have to worry about it.

I am not trying to be negative on your idea, just trying to see you have less work and have a long lasting repair.
Between the house and car.....there are enough things to keep me scooting around fixing them the first time.....without repeat repairs (although I end up with those too).

[quote=wiswind]I read "silicone".....do NOT use silicone in there.....it bleeds off gasses that are bad for the oxygen sensors even in very small amounts. Use ONLY silicone free and "sensor safe" sealants.
I would buy the improved bolts / isolators from FORD...and be done with it.
You can inspect the vaccum lines, if the line is snug on the fuel pressure regulator and looks good, then you can leave it. It is easier to replace the vaccum lines later, but opening up the intake manifold.....best to do it right and not have to worry about it.

I am not trying to be negative on your idea, just trying to see you have less work and have a long lasting repair.
Between the house and car.....there are enough things to keep me scooting around fixing them the first time.....without repeat repairs (although I end up with those too).[/quote



Permatex Blue RTV...it IS silicone and it IS sensor-safe. Just an FYI