Replacing my Alternator (99) a few questions

Ok, So I figured i needed to change my Alternator in my 1999 Windstar (3.0L). Things were shutting off as I was driving home the other day.

Anyways, I pulled the old one, and brought it in to the local chop shop, they pulled one off a 2000 Windstar. Apparently mine was the 110A, and the replacement was the 115A model. I have installed the new one physically (minus the belt) no problem. The wiring harness is slightly different however.

On the old Alt:
one red positive hookup
one 3-wire plug

on the new one:
One red positive hookup
one ground.
one 3-wire hookup, one is GND.

On the new one the GND is hooked up to the center wire on the plug. I am the other two wires are different thicknesses, just like the original plug. I assume I can just match up the thicknesses, and it should be fine.

I just want to make sure that it will work. Im going to go outside an snap a picture or two and post them up here to help out my description.

THanks alot guys

I'm a bit confused ... are you saying the 3-wire connector is physically different on the 2000 alternator? That would surprise me.

AutoZone will test alternators for free. You may want to carry both in for the test .... see if they have confusion over the alternators' connectors.

Your original problem, the "things shutting off", may be caused by the "switched power relays".

ok, heres a pic of whats going on:

http://www.biffopolis.com/files/alt_120.jpg

The yellow and green wires visable are loose, and are what needs to be connected. I'm thinking of just connecting them up to the outside wires on the old connector, thick to thick wire and thin to thin.

I'm a bit confused ... are you saying the 3-wire connector is physically different on the 2000 alternator? That would surprise me.

AutoZone will test alternators for free. You may want to carry both in for the test .... see if they have confusion over the alternators' connectors.

Your original problem, the "things shutting off", may be caused by the "switched power relays".

Ok, the attached pic should help. basically the 2000 connector is larger than the 1999. (110A vs 115A)

The things shutting off was similar to a problem I had in another car right before the Alternator died - Battery died, got a boost, on the way home things started going off, like my power steering & ABS, Turn signals not working, interior lights dimmed, and my odometer turned off.

Have a look at the pic above and see if it makes sense now

also, on the 1999, the voltage regulator is built in, but on the one I have, its that white unit that can be removed

anyone?

I would take the "new" alternator back....and get the correct exact fit unit.

I would agree on getting the correct one.. Could cause problems later..

I agree with the two other posters ... get the correct alternator. I'm thinking your new alternator did not come off of a 2000 Windstar .... but just to make sure, I'm going to check out the part numbers for the two different year models next Monday.

BTW, Good graphics work!

Also BTW, I recently changed out my alternator on my '99. I believe the Ford replacement was rated at 135 amp. I know it smoked paint for several days and my system voltage moved from 14.2 volts to very near 15 volts.

Also ... I believe '99 was the last year for the 3.0 for US models.

So I thought at first you might have a 3.0 versus 3.8 thing going on. But as I look at my wiring diagram for '99, it makes no reference to any difference between wiring for the alternators on the two engines ... course, it's been wrong before.

BTW, it shows the three wire colors on the connector as OG/LB, RD/BK, and VT. Similar to what I see in your photo on the old connector.

Also ... I believe '99 was the last year for the 3.0 for US models.

So I thought at first you might have a 3.0 versus 3.8 thing going on. But as I look at my wiring diagram for '99, it makes no reference to any difference between wiring for the alternators on the two engines ... course, it's been wrong before.

BTW, it shows the three wire colors on the connector as OG/LB, RD/BK, and VT. Similar to what I see in your photo on the old connector.

the 3.0/3.8 sounds right because most of the parts stores I talked to said that there was no difference.

I traced the Orange wire on the old connector to Positive, and I dont think that any of them on the old connector went back to Ground, whereas the new one, the center one is GND.

I'd like to try to get this one to work, as it was signifigantly cheaper then any other ones that I could find ($100CND opposed to $235), but if the connections are going to be completely different, I can just take it back.

Also, trying to get that belt back on is incredily hard. I can see how the tension pulley will move somewhat, but people were talking about loosening the bolt on it, but Whether its tight or loose, its just not moving enough to slip the belt over the alt.

Forgive me, but the belt is a "piece of cake" ... can't see how people have such trouble with it.

I just put on the hand brake firmly .... grab the belt above and below (mostly "above") the alternator pulley and give it a slow but firm pull ... the tensioner slowly moves, and I just push the belt off the side of the pulley.

Yeah, I got Popeye arms (and gut) ... but am also in my (very) late sixties.

Forgive me, but the belt is a "piece of cake" ... can't see how people have such trouble with it.

I just put on the hand brake firmly .... grab the belt above and below (mostly "above") the alternator pulley and give it a slow but firm pull ... the tensioner slowly moves, and I just push the belt off the side of the pulley.

Yeah, I got Popeye arms (and gut) ... but am also in my (very) late sixties.

Well, I can get it to move an inch maybe, but nothing more then that. I don't have the strongest arms, thats for sure, and someone took it off for me while i worked on something else, so I dont know how much it took.

Anyways, whats the worst that can happen from hooking up that connector wrong? Either way it should be charging the battery via the big red cable going directly to the battery, and as long as its grounded somewhere (middle pin on new alt). Just want to get this thing up and running, enough to get it to the garage so they can have a look at it.

you should take the old one into an auto electric shop and get it repaired... I had mine done with new brushes and bearings for $35.00. worked like a champ......this way you get OEM and don't have to modify anything.....as far as the belt goes, get a 15mm box end and release the tensioner...the belt will slip right on. At any rate I don't like to modify anything to make it fit if the proper parts are out there, that just means trouble down the road.....

I would not try to rig the "new" alternator .... you might have the "big smoke test" ... ????

To work the belt, you might want to get yourself a long 15mm wrench.
You will put the box end over the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley, and pull forward. Using a long wrench will give you leverage, making the force that you have to apply much less.

If you end up with the belt off several of the pulleys (or when you change the belt), there should be a sticker on the underside of the hood showing you the correct routing of the belt.

As far as the alternator goes, I had a Motorcraft replacement melt down on the freeway within 1 month of installation. I was very lucky, as the fuel line is only a couple of inches away on the '96 3.8L windstar.
That was with the correct OEM replacement part.
You are much more likely to have the wires going to the correct places, and the correct gauge wire with the OEM specified replacement (does not have to be Motorcraft brand, but OEM specification).
There can be a lot of current through various wires, and too small of a gauge wire, not a tight connection, etc can lead to an underhood fire.

Also, take note that the alternator and battery often fail together, a weak battery can draw lots of current trying to charge, causing a greater load on the alternator.
If you have the original battery in that '99, you might look into a replacement.

I agree with taking your alternator to a rebuilder in your area. I did the same thing on my 98 Windstar with the 3.0 Liter engine. The guy had it apart and back together in less than an hour and only charged in the 30's to clean and rebuild it. It only needed new bearings. The rest of it was in good shape but he cleaned it up anyway. This alternator had about 170,000 miles on it. Yours sounds like maybe it needs brushes or diodes or maybe voltage regulator. I would definitely check your yellow pages and see if someone can do it for you at a reasonable price.

I used a pry bar on the tensioner. It really is not that difficult. I tried to leave the belt on the other accesories but it quickly fell off. The diagram in the engine bay was easy to follow. and I looped the belt around everything but the tensioner. and then I pulled on the pry bar and slipped the belt over the last pully.

You may be able to purchase a rebuild kit for your alternator. I remember seeing ones that included the brushes etc.
Bearings often have the manufacturers numbers on them but you can take the old bearing to a bearing manufacturer's retail counter and they should be able to provide the replacement. (Fortunately I live in Toronto and we have 2 huge bearing companies nearby

Regarding the tensioner, I used a long rachet ( half inch drive ) with a socket on it and was able to get it down far enought to get the belt on. When you move it, its hard for a little while in the travel then it gets easier once you get it to a certain point. At least thats how mine was. I don't know why Ford had to put such a stiff spring on that tensioner, my gm products were never that hard.