Progress: Porsche Carrera GT

Nothing too exciting here, just another Tamiya Carrera GT. Been stuffing about with this for a while now but not really going anywhere. Never built a black car before and figured it would be fun to do, with a red leather interior as you can see in the below pics. The paint still needs another clear coat or two and a good rub/polish out. As usual I went to town with the carbon fibre treatment, best seen on the undertray.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/RallyRaider/Carrera-GT/Dscf6237.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/RallyRaider/Carrera-GT/Dscf6238.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/RallyRaider/Carrera-GT/Dscf6242.jpg

Nice to see a WIP from you, and wonderful paint finish. Nice CF decals as well. This is one of those kits that doesn't really need a lot of aftermarket I think as it has bags of detail already in the box.

I "might" even look into starting mine soon.. Just need to pick myself up again after a "recent" nightmare.. LOL

:) Master is back.

The paint looks perfect and a black CGT is so sexy :grinno:!!!

The paint still needs another clear coat or two and a good rub/polish out.
I shudder to think what it's going to look like afterwards then because it already looks 1 million% better than anything I've ever done.
Black/red is a killer combination IMO - great choice :thumbsup:

I'm sure you'll been asked a million times but what paint and clear did you use?

Stunning paintwork! I'm amazed you're not done with it. Your models are all just so... freakin' awesome.

The paint still needs another clear coat or two and a good rub/polish out.

Looks like a show car already from the pics...

Are you sure that it needs more polishing? ;)

Stunning work so far.

Winston

Looking good!
You can never go wrong with a red interior in a black car, back to basic...sort of.
I assume it will have a miles deep shine when you're through all the finishing steps.

Niclas "who currently is packing up my stuff for the upcoming move" Proos

Oh no, another AFMOTY! :naughty: Looks good already, but I expected nothing less!

Glad you've finally decided to make a thread on this build. I love it to bits ... to every single bit that's attached or not attached yet :)

Wow.........!
Really nice and clean building.

Great

Jamme

another winner!

That paint looks awesome Phil!
I think you are going to inspire a lot of new Carrera GT builds...where's mine?

Gee that kit looks awefully familiar... now you are sending it back when your done with it right? ;) I love your street cars, to bad you dont build more of them:p

Thanks guys. Yeah Chad, seems like a long time ago you sent me the kit! :) I ended up buying another one as I tried to be clever with the door panels and ended up cracking the body first time. :banghead:

The paint still needs work because it has a very fine orange peel. I think it was caused by the new primer I used, Mr Surface 1200. I was fooled into thinking it was smooth enough straight from the airbrush and didn't give it a light sand before the colour coats as I usually do. No big deal as it will sand out very easily with micromesh, just have to make sure the paint is thick enough so the danger of sanding through is minimised.

The paint I used was the aforementioned Mr Surfacer 1200 (my new preferred primer) then Tamiya spraycans. First Matt Black, then Gloss Black, followed by TS-13 Clear, all straight from the can. No fancy automotive stuff this time. :) The best trick with the rattle cans is to warm them up nice and hot before use. I have a electric oil heater I rest them on for 15-20 minutes so they are almost too hot to touch. Makes the paint flow much better but also boosts the pressure - the latter you have to allow for.

True Mick there isn’t a lot of detail to add. The CGT has one of those modern, tidy engine bays where everything interesting is safely tucked away. Will just add some springs to the rear suspension a minimum of wiring, seatbelts and of course all that carbon fibre. :)

Biggest challenge is the mesh for the engine cover. I’ve managed to successfully shape one of the S27 PE mesh pieces, but am not sure how to attach it cleanly and strongly.

That is looking very nice Phil love the paint job.
Just a question where do you guys get that micromesh sand paper?
Thanks

The paint I used was the aforementioned Mr Surfacer 1200 (my new preferred primer) then Tamiya spraycans. First Matt Black, then Gloss Black, followed by TS-13 Clear, all straight from the can. No fancy automotive stuff this time. :) The best trick with the rattle cans is to warm them up nice and hot before use. I have a electric oil heater I rest them on for 15-20 minutes so they are almost too hot to touch. Makes the paint flow much better but also boosts the pressure - the latter you have to allow for.


Biggest challenge is the mesh for the engine cover. I’ve managed to successfully shape one of the S27 PE mesh pieces, but am not sure how to attach it cleanly and strongly.

Those TS paints are good aren't they? I used TS black with no clear at all, applied addtional coats and it buffed out superbly. But, I heated the can once using the same method, and I was worried as I was shaking it, as the bottom of the can popped out. Thinking it was about to explode, and having an image of my face covered with paint, and my hand ripped open by a shredding can, I opted to only use hot tape water after that.. What did I do wrong?

And again, stunning paintjob, I can't see any orange peel, so it must be very light, light orange peel can be meshed out fine, I've cut out masses of orange peel before now.. LOL

That does sound like you got the can a bit too hot Mick! :eek: I've never had that happen and at times had the can too hot to touch. :dunno:

Micromesh can be easily found in Detail Master polishing kits. However, I cut out the middle man and bought mine direct from the microsurface website (http://www.micro-surface.com). They have hobby kits, or if you're serious 12"x12" sheets. The latter will last a while. :)

Looks great Phil.
I was wondering about that CGT in the sig.

That does sound like you got the can a bit too hot Mick! :eek: I've never had that happen and at times had the can too hot to touch. :dunno:


I'd be worried about walking away and leaving the can on a surface that would continually put heat into the can....:nono:
The trials and tribulations of having young kids and needing to go inside sometimes during your painting sessions. :p


Micromesh can be easily found in Detail Master polishing kits. However, I cut out the middle man and bought mine direct from the microsurface website (http://www.micro-surface.com). They have hobby kits, or if you're serious 12"x12" sheets. The latter will last a while. :)

Which sheets do you use Phil?

I have the DM Polishing cloths, but they are looking tired. I would like to get some of these.

:cheers:
Nens

I'd be worried about walking away and leaving the can on a surface that would continually put heat into the can....:nono:

True Nens, but in my case the heater is one of those radiating ones that have a temperature control so it doesn't get hot enough to burn or hopefully, explode cans. Unless maybe the kids tamper with the control. :rolleyes: Certainly something one should be careful with.

Which sheets do you use Phil?

I bought one of the hobby kits from Microsurface, that's all I've use on my last four or five models. Exactly the same as DM I think - grits 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 1200. Like yours, mine are getting tired and I'll have to retire them soon and cut up the big ones. :) The finer sheets don't get used as much I find, so last longer. I also plan to buy some of the coarser sheets Microsurface make, 1800 or so. I keep meaning to look into finding if they can be sourced through one of the Australian distributors listed on the website.

I have found some great 2400 sanding paper from Bunnings that is handy for knocking any orange peel off of the primer before painting color coats. I agree with the coarser grades of mesh. I too have worn them out before the finer coats. I will look during the week at getting a MM kit and individual sheets.

Be careful with the heater. :2cents:
I got an absolutely fabulous paint finish on my Dodge Viper GTS when I heated up my paint in some freshly boiled water that I had outside the shed so it didn't add to the humidity inside the shed. It really reduced the imperfections of my Auto lacquer color coat and gave me a liquid glass finish for my clear coat.

Nowdays I use Auto lacquer as a basecoat and 2 part clear coat that doesn't orange peel(but u knew that already). I am yet to master polishing it (to eliminate any imperfections like dust etc), but thankfully it is excellent straight off the gun.

:cheers:
Nens

Phil, it's looks terrific so far!!:sunglasse

Looks really good so far. I look forward to seeing what you do with this one.

That paint job is like butter! sooooooooooo smooooooth. But then again i shouldnt be surprised since your work is always flawless. Well done mate!

Fantastic shine, Phil: you push all to do something black. Fashion color on AF next Fall :)

That thing is so shiny it's even reflecting beyond my monitor :)

I am starting to seriously think you have got like a whole bunch of trained workmonkeys shrinkrayed to do your modeling for you.

This is just way too clean, i bow down to thee.

And what's up with this streetcar fad, Phil, going to be doing that for a while or what 's the sudden interest for those?

Oli

super clean paint job and thanks for the information on how you pulled it off.
Chris

Grrrrr. In case anybody was wondering why this build is taking so long - its because the modelling gods are not smiling on me at the moment. :lol:

Tonight I decided I wanted to paint the armrests on the door red instead of black. However was careless when removing the masking tape and ripped off the carbon fibre decals on one door. :banghead: Then, I somehow lost one of the silver inserts - buggered if I know where it went. :dunno: Oh well, I'm getting used to spending most of my modelling time on my knees grovelling about for lost parts.... :screwy:

Anyway I've cut back the ripped portions and should be able to replace the damaged part without too much of a join. At least I'm now decided the whole panel will get a flat coat and be done with, no more stuffing about masking over decals for me. :icon16:


http://www.rallyraider.nwwo.com/build/carrera-gt/DSCF6262.JPG

Wow, looks VERY nice. And I know what you mean, parts drop on the floor, and they vapourise.. Never to be seen again. I'm ALWAYS doing it. Folks in the house think I'm nuts when I'm hunting around on the floor with a flashlight.

And, not to rub it in or anything, but its sooo nice to hear that pros have problems. You're a GREAT builder, but it makes me feel a little better, as I mess up all the time. But I patch it up, and it "mostly" turns out good...

Keep the updates coming, but seeing as you've got this kit twice anyhow, you should have a replacement for the lost part, so not a problem.. Right?:wink:

Yeah Mick, I've already f***ed up and had to buy a second kit so have that to fall back on. It’s not too bad when problems happen building a common and relatively cheap kit, rather than one of the expensive resin jobbies. I was dead scared I'd screw up a decal on the AUS$300 Crocodile Audi R8 I built a while back. :eek:

Things are looking up, found the missing part and it hadn't even been stepped on! :D Also replaced the carbon fibre decals without much fuss. I've often said that modelling is an exercise in damage control and fortunately I've been successful at that this evening. :)

Thanks for calling me a great modeller. I’m not really, just deceptive. :)

P.S. Don't those carbon fibre decals look nasty and bubbly in that shot? Fortunately they're okay to the naked eye.

Yeah Mick, I've already f***ed up and had to buy a second kit so have that to fall back on.

The older I get the more I realize the difference between newbies and experienced modelers is that ability to look at a horrific accident as a learning experience, fix the problem and to never give up...unless it's a Heller 905, in which case you were nuts to begin it in the first place...;-)>

Bill

P.S. Don't those carbon fibre decals look nasty and bubbly in that shot? Fortunately they're okay to the naked eye.

I dont think so. My CF decals wouldnt look that good from 10 feet away. they look very nice

Some pics of the wheels, brakes and interior bits. I went slightly unconventional for the interior colours, but given the Carrera GT is such an exclusive machine I figure the customer can order the colours anyway they like. :) On the brakes I've used S27 PE for the disks and SMS for the hubs, as well as scratchbuilt detail on the calipers.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/RallyRaider/Carrera-GT/Dscf6320.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/RallyRaider/Carrera-GT/Dscf6323.jpg

Superb!

Very nice progress. Is that the standard chrome on the wheels or did you repaint them?

Awesome interior the seats look great in the red.Brake discs look real.Superb work as usual.

You never stop to amaze me with precision of your work.
Top job.

Awesome, everything looks so perfect!! What color did you use on the rims?

Top stuff Phil :bigthumb:

Thanks guys. I didn't paint the rims. Rather, I left on the Tamiya chrome and toned the plasticy finish down with some graphite dust. Particularly in the center to make them look shadowy and deeper. I was intending to finish with a clear coat but the graphite has bitten into the chrome well and doesn't look like it will come off.

Next decision is how to deal with the engine cover mesh. I think I'll go with the decals on clear plastic. With a matt coat they should actually look more realistic than using PE mesh. :eek: Both in terms of "filling out" the cover from the top and particularly when viewed from underneath with the engine cover open.

When you say "graphite dust" do you mean pencil lead ?
Because it's very effective.

Well to be honest I'm just assuming it's graphite dust. I have a little jar of some strangely named Japanese product by the company WORK. It doesn't seem to be available any more unfortunately. The effect is the same as what I used to achieve when I built military models as a kid by filing down pencil led and dry brushing it on to highlight detail. Except this product is much finer grained.

The stuff is intended to create a metallic appearance when rubbed it into a satin black surface. Works kind of like buffing metalizer paints. It's ultra messy and sticks to anything like the proverbial sh!t to a blanket. I find it isn't as effective as Alcalad and the like for metallic finishes but has other cool uses, like the above. :)

If anybody wants to see how it works try the graphite pencil lead trick, it's quite useful as a highlighting technique.

Hey man, I was wondering how you got the brakes to look so clean. I've got the SMS photo-etch for this kit, and wanna do it right, so if you could go into more depth on how you did that, I'd be ever thankful.

And just to show you that you're not the only one making the CGT in odd colors:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y164/deltableh/Car%20Models/PICT1131.jpg

Not much to it really. Just painted the plastic part black and applied the PE. The SMS hubs are great, you need to be careful bending all the washers back. I did it in two stages, first 90 degrees then the full 180. It looks like the recesses on the back are meant to position over the existing bolt detail but I sanded that off first. Leaving it on might simplify positioning. :dunno: I glued them down with small daubs of superglue.

Similar with the disk faces, on the front I used S27 because they were a different shinier finish and have the holes drilled right through, not recessed like SMS. The S27 set has a small extra part the fits into the second, black calliper of the rear brake. I removed this with a file so the disk laid flat.

The callipers have added brake lines, bleed nipples and some other nut. Made from Galtran scale nuts and bolts and heat stretched styrene. I stuffed up and positioned the all the bleed nipples on the same side, so half of them will be upside down. :shrug:

very very good!!!!!!!

This is great. Loving all those details and the gorgeous shine.

Keeping on watching...!

This is a beautiful work in progress!!:sunglasse

UUUhhhh, I have no money and I am still about to click on the *order*-button lol

Well now, did that, hope I won't regret buying this car :)

absolutely amazing in my opinion. It may seem mundane* and simple to you but im in aww of it. C.L.E.A.N.

Good grief! My "flabber" is totally "gasted" :eek:

I think "aspirational" is more approprate for this kind of work (and less over used ;) )

Superb job, sir!

i've put off buying one of these kits for ages but seeing it in black is tempting me so much.
i have to say, your black is making me jealous.....

i've put off buying one of these kits for ages but seeing it in black is tempting me so much.
i have to say, your black is making me jealous.....
lol
well, as I said, this thread convonced me to buy one :D
Think will arrive today or tomorrow :iceslolan

Just to show things are still tickin' along. :)
The carbon fibre on the chassis has been clear coated and polished up, as well as some foil and paintwork on the exhausts.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/RallyRaider/Carrera-GT/Dscf6333.jpg

Wow! Just wow!

-Chris

Are you sure thats not real. That is looking awesome.

Thanks guys. :)
Here is another pic where you can actually see the exhaust:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/RallyRaider/Carrera-GT/Dscf6336.jpg

wow, beautiful!